My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[GChilders]

posting pictures

@all
I am having a problem with posting the pictures of the work. What is the secret that everyone is using to have the pictures come up without posting a link to them. I posted the link thinking that the pictures would be displayed with the text. The text came up but only links to the pictures. I would truly appreciate it if someone could help me here. I am using drop box and I noticed that the link was https: instead of http: I know that this is a secure encrypted version which is unnecessary because I am sharing them publicly.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Garry

[GChilders]

Arduino code

@JS

I am already working on a new version that will accomplish this. I am creating an inner loop that will break down the number of pulses based on how many brush sets, and how many poles the motor has. There will be one pulse per pole in the new version which should be ready by the end of Sunday. I have been thinking about this since I built the lexan disc. I sent ufo a pm to see what he thought about this idea and he thought it would work very well. Anyway getting closer to being able to do some serious testing. Seems like you have been very busy between your tutorials and building your Chinese motor. Hope every thing is well with your wife. We appreciate the time that you are spending here with us and helping us as we muddle through the electrical bits of the technology.

Cheers,

Garry

[JohnStone]

.....
@ John Stone

I have elected not to go with the vane type of interrupter. I only want one signal per revolution as it is my intention that the motor needs to be controlled by code and not be the interrupts. This allows a great deal more flexibility between types of motors and it is easier to accommodate many types of motors and configurations of commutators and various brush pairs. As you can see in the photos above it is easy to implement this design and well within a novices reach. That is why I am doing it that way. Any more difficult and I might not be capable.
....

Those words make it clear - especially your pics. Thanks. You see a chance to do all timing by program. That was exactly my question before but I figured to still need vanes per pole. Thanks for posting!
I assume you will come up with another great Arduino code where we can adjust firing angle by serial command.
JS

[Cornboy 555]

Good Work.

Hello Garry, your work looks great, practical experimenting and building, is the way forward, to learning, theory is only good to a point.

With my MAG3 build, i will start with very simple switching signals to monsters, from 3 vane sensors, mounted on a plate that is adjustable. The vane will have 36 cutouts, as the Wound stators will need to be pulsed 36 times per revolution, along with the rotor.

Of course this is after initial testing with linear feed, at different voltages.

I want to get a feel for the motor, before jumping into arduino control.

It would be ideal if the signal from the vane sensors, before reaching the monster opto's, was duty cycle adjustable, maybe, Please, if you or JS had a moment, you could design a simple circuit for me?

Keep up the good work and warm regards,

Cornboy.

[GChilders]

pictures

@cornboy
Hi Cornboy,

I am not too proud of my machine work and when I see all of the beautiful machinery that you and the others are sharing on this site I am humbled. But you asked for pictures of what I am doing and so if you think it will help here are a few.

This is a photo of my third replication prior to assembly. In the left rear corner you will see the lexan disc that I spoke of.

This is a close up of the lexan disc and the transmitter part of the infrared transmitter receiver pair that I am using for the tachometer and also to time the motor with.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bx9wzv3ivqt66wj/DSCF0020.JPG

This is a picture of the assembled goldmine with the lexan disc mounted and the infrared transmitter receiver combo mounted. Not possible to see the transmitter in this photo as it is mounted underneath the motor.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z55yyb6o1sns1uo/DSCF0021.JPG

In this photo you can see the transmitter through the lexan disc. Also the electrical tape that I am using for timing the motor to the pulser. Once the best timing has been discovered I will place masking tape on each side of the electrical tape and remove electrical tape and paint that area black.

These are the current replications that I am working on. These will be dual pentagon winds.

Hope this helps.

@ John Stone

I have elected not to go with the vane type of interrupter. I only want one signal per revolution as it is my intention that the motor needs to be controlled by code and not be the interrupts. This allows a great deal more flexibility between types of motors and it is easier to accommodate many types of motors and configurations of commutators and various brush pairs. As you can see in the photos above it is easy to implement this design and well within a novices reach. That is why I am doing it that way. Any more difficult and I might not be capable.

cheers,

Garry

[Cornboy 555]

Not Snoozing.

Hello JS, i am using scope to look at pulse generator, and RMcybernetics pulsers etc, starting to get the hang of it.

Trying not to use the Granny, snooze, button tooo much.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

@Hitby: What a mess! The only easy to use I2C temp sensor in the world is not available. What do all those tinkerers in the world?
I got today most of my materials ADC, current sensors, TC74A?-5.0VAT (Farnell, Newark). Arduino Leonardos still missing (China) and John Stone V5.1 PCBs from Oshpark.
Regarding serial: Leonardo has two serial: (processor 32U).

• For programming USB only. This is "serial"
• For serial over pins (for i.e. BT) it uses "serial1"

Leonardo supports emulation of USB Keyboards and mice at USB.

All other arduinos with 328p processor (uno, nano..) have only one
serial over pins and there a USB slave chip is connected.

@Kogs: I am so sorry you lost FETs and possibly FET driver. Still pondering what happens. You are not the only who fell into this pit. You all will get some thoughts at next tutorial session. Am quite busy now with a new project at my work.
If you repair your driver please replace 1Ohm gate resistors with 33 or 47 Ohm. They need to be tuned to every application. They shall dampen possible oscillations from drive circuit. It is a negatiantion between speed, stability and heat. Please observe heat with those resistors.
Your pic: Nice you are still well. Sorry for aliens will not see your drawings in gravel from space. See for reference those Nazca patterns in America - being somewhat more prominent

You might want to look at our data aquisition system. It is suitable for battery charger as well along display of charged energy.

@Cornboy: Your scope is fine. I'd like to have it. It is worth to spend time with it in order to master it. I got the manual from Atten and they have some basic exercises in it you can do. Unfortunately all tutorials in internet for scopes ralate to those older ones (like mine) with dials. Menue driven scopes are very individual in handling. But for now it is suffitient if you see your signals.
JS

[Midaztouch]

G'day Richie and the rest of the team


I guess the normal wind Chinese motor 250 w 36v is just not strong enough as I told my driver not to use the throttle until she has a bit of speed then she can power the throttle. She said it didn't work so I tried it again and found the throttle would delay to stop the motor for a second even though it returned fully It did stop though
I took it back to my workshop and decided to give it a test once again just to be sure I switched the battery switch on AND GUESS WHAT HAPPENED NEXT


http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/Ko...]=1&sort=1&o=0

Some people have to Just Learn the hard way

I took the circuit out and set it up on my bench as soon as I switched on the power the motor sprung to life full bore, the LED was off when the pot was zero and would blink slow and increased as I increased the pot. The motor was full bore I switched it off and examined it.

The Monster driver 1 ohm resisters were cooked one Mosfet was dead the other tested working? I imagined that as the LED was blinking that the Oscillator and the first part of the monster driver was OK I replaced the Mosfets and the 1 Ohm resistors and set it up again on my bench. This time nothing happened not even the LED.

I did not test the Diodes.
What I will do now is make another couple of Monster 5.1's circuit boards and follow through with the installation instructions as John Stone is so kindly giving us thanks John.

I have run My EVBike1 several times now and have noticed that each time I charge the 36v battery(3 x 7.2ah12v SLAB's) it seems to last a bit longer and it takes less to charge it. When I charged them the first time it took 24 hours the second time 22 hours and they seem to have more power that is it takes a bit longer to run down to a point where it effects the motor speed ( below 30v) I am using my build of John Bedini's Solid state energiser I have restored Quite a few defunct batteries with it. The only trouble I have with it is it is a pain to keep an eye on the charging volts I really need an automatic cut out when the battery reaches it's DOC

I remember that when I purchased 12 6v Trojan batteries they did not have much capacity and when I read the manual it said that new Lead acid batteries take quite a few cycles to reach their best capacity.

My progress is to order 2 more 250w Chinese motors so I can wind them asymmetrically and when I have that done I can then do the comparison
to just see the difference.
My think I need to order 4 more motors as my test driver has already commandeered EVBike1 as she asked me "Will she be able to ride it every day" I need one my self so I can exercise every day.

Kindest Regards


Kogs trying to be careful

Hi kogs!

First of all, I'm glad you are ok. But I know it felt good to have some real excitement!

Well, I seen some of the 1000watt motors bring bikes to good speeds! Remember lead acid batteries have a very low c-rating. Having low or poor motor preformance is usually do the lead batts. Lipos usually bring the motors to life.

From our past data using the quad pulser, the asymmetric motor will have a lot lower amp draw = better Performance from lead batteries.

Just some food for thought! Keep moving forward!

Midaz

[Cornboy 555]

Ohhh, KOGS, thanks for that image, after i picked myself up of the ground, i thought Glad no one got hurt.

I am sure asymmetrically wound motors will leave much bigger and better donuts on your gravel. Just kidding.

Thanks for sharing, friend.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Kogs update

Hey kogs,

do you have an emergency HV kill button
Richie

G'day Richie and the rest of the team


I guess the normal wind Chinese motor 250 w 36v is just not strong enough as I told my driver not to use the throttle until she has a bit of speed then she can power the throttle. She said it didn't work so I tried it again and found the throttle would delay to stop the motor for a second even though it returned fully It did stop though
I took it back to my workshop and decided to give it a test once again just to be sure I switched the battery switch on AND GUESS WHAT HAPPENED NEXT


http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/Ko...]=1&sort=1&o=0

Some people have to Just Learn the hard way

I took the circuit out and set it up on my bench as soon as I switched on the power the motor sprung to life full bore, the LED was off when the pot was zero and would blink slow and increased as I increased the pot. The motor was full bore I switched it off and examined it.

The Monster driver 1 ohm resisters were cooked one Mosfet was dead the other tested working? I imagined that as the LED was blinking that the Oscillator and the first part of the monster driver was OK I replaced the Mosfets and the 1 Ohm resistors and set it up again on my bench. This time nothing happened not even the LED.

I did not test the Diodes.
What I will do now is make another couple of Monster 5.1's circuit boards and follow through with the installation instructions as John Stone is so kindly giving us thanks John.

I have run My EVBike1 several times now and have noticed that each time I charge the 36v battery(3 x 7.2ah12v SLAB's) it seems to last a bit longer and it takes less to charge it. When I charged them the first time it took 24 hours the second time 22 hours and they seem to have more power that is it takes a bit longer to run down to a point where it effects the motor speed ( below 30v) I am using my build of John Bedini's Solid state energiser I have restored Quite a few defunct batteries with it. The only trouble I have with it is it is a pain to keep an eye on the charging volts I really need an automatic cut out when the battery reaches it's DOC

I remember that when I purchased 12 6v Trojan batteries they did not have much capacity and when I read the manual it said that new Lead acid batteries take quite a few cycles to reach their best capacity.

My progress is to order 2 more 250w Chinese motors so I can wind them asymmetrically and when I have that done I can then do the comparison
to just see the difference.
My think I need to order 4 more motors as my test driver has already commandeered EVBike1 as she asked me "Will she be able to ride it every day" I need one my self so I can exercise every day.

Kindest Regards


Kogs trying to be careful

[Cornboy 555]

Hello Hitby RS components, seem to have all 3 TC74A's in stock, don't know if you have access to them!

Regards Cornboy.

[Hitby13kw]

temperature sensor array

Found a I2C level shifter#2337

JS

Hi John,


Mfr. Part#:TC74A0-5.0VAT Allied Stock#:70046378 Microchip Technology Inc. - TC74A0-5.0VAT - Semiconductors - Sensors - Allied Electronics
Mfr. Part#:TC74A3-5.0VAT Allied Stock#:R1137547 Microchip Technology Inc. - TC74A3-5.0VAT - Uncategorized - Allied Electronics
Mfr. Part#:TC74A5-5.0VAT Allied Stock#:70046380 Microchip Technology Inc. - TC74A5-5.0VAT - Semiconductors - Sensors - Allied Electronics





Hitby13kw

[Cornboy 555]

Hello John, my scope is Atten ADS1102CML 100Mhz, the probes are switchable between 1x & 10x, it's not an expensive one, hopfully it will do all i need.

I have some SiC diodes on the way, and will go back to original, pulsing coils, for radiant output, when Monster is finished. This is where i left off, lighting 10 25W 240v CFL's, when my pulser Fried.

Hopfully the no reverse time characteristic, of the SiC diodes, will help protect my new fledgling Monster baby.

Once again, thanks for your time and devotion here John,

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

....

I have a scope that goes to 2.5ns/div but am still trying to work out how to use it, but all looks good with the monster so far.
.....

Congratulations!
What type of scope?

Some low end explanations for all:
Imagine a scope to be some apparatus like a seismograph. The paper shifts from left to right and the "electrical" vibrations get the hands with pencil excited.
Different from seismograph you can change the shift speed for paper and the sensitivity of writing hands.
Another difference is that you have not a long paper banner pathing from source paper coil to destination coil but your scope writes one sheets of paper one after another. Imagine a flicker book. But at your scope-flicker book the contence of pics change and the paper frequency needs to be synchronized.
Fortunately modern scopes own an automatic - so called - trigger mode. This special circuit looks thoroughly to edges and slopes of your input signal and tries to get it synchroized with the paper change (beam sweep over screen). How? The beam waits at left hand side being switched off for a trigger. If the trigger unit detects a slope or edge it fires the trigger in order to get the sweep started -> traveling with predefined speed over yoru screen. But there is a timeout available as well firing the trigger even if there was no signal or slope detected.

Hands on exercise:
1. You have a dial for GND position of beam (vertical, x-axis). Set it with no input signal connected to be in the center of screen. You will have 5 devisions of grid above and 5 devisions below.
2. Adjust your generator to 1 KHz frequency and 5V peak to peak output level - that is -> it will swing 2.5V above GND and 2.5V below GND.
3. Your task is to adjust for Y-axis of screen the time dial to about a fittng time base. If you adjust your generator i.e. to 1 KHz it will be suitable to adjust your scope to about 1ms per div.
4. Then adjust your input amplfier (X-axis of screen) to 1V per division. 5. Now regard your probe type. If it is 10:1(will be printed on it) type you shall account for it by setting the X-dial to .1 V per devision.
6. Now connect your generator and play with those trigger dials, buttons in order to explore their function.
7. Change frequency and / or amplitude at your generator and find out what dials need to be adjusted and how in order to get a nice pic on your screen.

OK, now play with your toys for self education.

BTW: Some scopes own an "autoset" button. You need to have the signal connected and then press (grandma-) button. You're done! But learning effect = 0!!!!! Sit back in your grandma chair and doze another hour.
Other tutorial: here

JS

[JohnStone]

@ Team & John Stone, Been looking at other temperature sensors that are available, came across the DHT11 and his big brother the DHT22 this sensor can also report the humidity and dew point data, and you only need one digital pin for each sensor so multiple data points (both bearings, each of the eight brushes, the motor case, etc.) would be a piece of cake, main downside is this unit is slow ~ can only pull data from it once every 2 seconds.

Another unit that might be worth considering is the DS18B20 it is offered in two versions, just the sensor and in a nice protective case with 3 foot of wire either way, this unit communicates via

Hitby13kw

still working the plan

Hi Hitby,
there are plenty of different sensors but they might not fit to application.
DHT are air sensors they can not be attached to a solid component.

DS... Sensors use one wire protocol. Please check if it can be used at same time with I2C. They might interfere with interrupt or dedicated pins or program space. The canned type is for fluids or air.
At one wire devices it is not possible to set a known address like at I2C. You need to add scan cycles to program in order to read IDs then you need to store found IDs and find out wich ID is which sensor. The only way to discern is to heat one, read all sensors and check temperature. Then you need to configure sensor name to ID. Overall a boring procedure along many pits to fall in. And it needs to be repeated by any user and any replacement, addition of sensors.

Found a I2C level shifter#2337
Unfortunately eBay is no source for this component but all distributors sell it: Mouser, Newark, Future,, Alliedelec, Franell, Arrow, RS components, Avnet, Digikey, eBay, Microchip direct, dontscrapit
JS