My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[GChilders]

capacitors

@JS
Hi John
I have been thinking a lot about capacitors lately and am thinking in particular about the voltage ratings and the storage ratings farads microfarads etc.. Most high voltage rated caps seem to have fairly low storage ratings and most high storage caps 2000 to 3000 farads seem to have pretty low voltage ratings 2.5 to 2.7 volts. Does the low voltage rating indicate that a cap will burn out if it is hit with a burst of energy that is say in the 200 to 500 volt range or does this indicate that the cap after being fully charged will deliver 2.5 to 2.7 volts? And what triggers this release of stored energy in a circuit? I know that there is a common circuit called an R/C circuit that has a resistor in series with a capacitor that is used for smoothing the electric pulses in the circuit. Is this event triggered after the capacitor stores enough electricity to overcome the resistance? And how is it triggered in circuits that have no resistor?

Cheers

Garry

[GChilders]

Feeling your pain

Unfortunately not! Monsters seem to travel slowly.

@js
I am feeling your pain John as it has been over a month since I ordered the monster pcbs. I wonder if Neal took a vacation to Maui or something?

Cheers

Garry

[Cornboy 555]

Mailed on the 10th, now the 19th, so much for 3-7 days?

Maybe the postal service has a Monster Filter John.

[JohnStone]

Hello JS, anything in the mail yet?

Unfortunately not! Monsters seem to travel slowly.

[Cornboy 555]

Hello JS, anything in the mail yet?

[prochiro]

Hello Garry

That station will make you a pro. Maybe you will get your boards by the week-end and have a ball. Garry, I have a favor to ask. I am beginning to test Imperial with the four fet version of boards and suddenly realized that I do not have a version of your pulsing program set up for a pot control for throttle on the bike that is without anything but one basic function similar to my Quadblink but with your pulse style. Do you have something like this. If not, I will test with the Quad program I have for now.
Dana

[GChilders]

soldering tutorials

@Kogs
Hey kogs thanks for the soldering tutorials. This guy sounds Australian from his accent. But a very informative series. I got my soldering station and desoldering pump today and assembled the station. Tested the resistance as explained in the manual and the heating element resistance was perfectly within the range expected but the sensor resistance was high compared to what it called for. The instructions called for a range of 2.4 to 4.5 ohms and the actual resistance was in the neighborhood of 48.5 ohms. Since this should only affect the read out temp slightly I will adjust the temp down or up slightly as needed. Will give it a full work out tomorrow.
@Sampojo
I sent Neal an email yesterday and haven't received an email reply. No change in status of order. Well everything else is here and ready to go. Do a couple of test runs with the soldering station to get the hang of it. Hopefully the monster drives pcbs have been created and are being shipped post haste.

Cheers

Garry

[JohnStone]

....How are they using this N-Channel FET's to work from reversed feeding through Drain, but basically feeding 15 of them with + through Drain, and using the Source legs to Motor Channels, John?

I am completely lost here...sorry
...

OK, Ufo! Let's dig into your drivers.
You have:

• 30 N-FETs
• 3 phase BLDC motor
• Power recovery

1.
P-FETs suffer from an genuine technology illness and therefore can not be matched to high performance N-Fets like we know it from NPN / PNP transistors. Therefore P-FETs are being used at very special applications only and are expensive.
State of the art is to use N_FETs at high side as well. The control voltage needs to be 12V above battery +.
There are high side drivers available containing a voltage step up converter and they can stand this higher voltage.

2.
Channel driver:
Usually motors are driven by full H-bridge drivers for 4 quadrant operation.


Now imagine a bunch of 5 FETs in parallel as high side driver and same as low side driver. This gives a halve H-bridge.
This is suffitient if you do not intend to operate the motor in reverse.

Depending on smart control pattern two essential functions can be added:

• Current flow continued while PWM-pulse off state
• Power recovery

I fugure that there need to be added some diodes in order to replace the second halve bridge for functions above.

Now I do not know if your motor is connected like above to FET bridges (3 leads) or 6 leads. Both is possible.
John

[Ufopolitics]

Hello John

Hi Ufo,
still waiting for diagram!
Basically your intention seems to be viable (as I understood your words). The implication is usually that controllers perform all kind of checks and supervision at important circuit parts. This might cause them to enter a safety or emergency mode and that is not what we expect.

@ALL: As Ufo experienced a FET driver needs to be double supervised in order to prevent total loss. The problem is that FETs increase their resistance if they get hot. One FET failing causes others to increase their resistance as well ..... -> that is a so called domino effect!
This is the reason industry likes IGBTs for severe power applications. They behave inversely and hence somewaht more safe. For our applications it is not necessary using IGBTs.

Measures for safe FET operation:
1. Use a fuse being adapted to your current application.
2. Provide an emergency switch at your setup in order to imediately stop current in case of damage.
3. Use of a temperature sensor at FETs (definitely an issue for next driver desing)
JS

Hello John,

Do not worry about it...It did not worked based on an excitation from Hall Sensors...Next I will be using the Throttle Signal, which I did not connected on the test.

I see on this BLDC Controller something I really do not understand...since I am not familiar with this type of switching...However, it does not make sense when it comes to basic FET knowledge and applications.

Controller have 30 N-Channel IRFB4310...Now, 15 are being connected by Batt Negative to Drain?...and the other 15 are connected by Batt Positive to Drain?...and the Source from FET's Legs on this side (Positive feed to Drain) are the ones that go to the BLDC Three Phases A,B and C...

How are they using this N-Channel FET's to work from reversed feeding through Drain, but basically feeding 15 of them with + through Drain, and using the Source legs to Motor Channels, John?

I am completely lost here...sorry


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello NTC

Hello ntc and thanks it is my pleasure you see and test all this with your own eyes.

When you "diode-filter" through that coil a High Percentage of just one flow current...no matter if your Symmetric Motor reverses their coils at all times...the B EMF will be canceled. It is the constant reversing of polarity within the symmetrical machines what creates the heavy front end electronic and flux collisions...elevating the temperature of their inner coils that never take a single nano second "brake"...or idling time.

You've got it right...the Supplying Coil must always be Higher Capacity/Impedance than the Motor Coils.

The Capacitor must be a Non Polarized one...or an AC Cap, Radiant Energy is a High Frequency current...Electrolytic Polarized Caps are not good to handle it, and they tend to explode (must times through their safety valve, but you will get a high Boom) if too high frequency is applied/stored.

Second, I can build a new coil with a secondary wound over top the primary (i.e. as described in your happy motor diagram). Now, in this case, may I ask you some questions. In order to get the motor to cool down, must the total resistance of the coil be less than or equal to the total coil resistance of the brushed DC motor (as above)? If yes, is it the total resistance of the primary PLUS secondary, or just the resistance of the primary coil alone?

The Supplying Coil(s) that is(are) feeding Directly the Motor...is(are) the one(s) to be balanced, in the Happy Motor Diagram I have set both in series, Primary-Secondary, so, here are Both Coils Supplying, meaning their total resistance sum...you could also try just the Secondary if it is Higher or Equal than Motor...and compare results.

The differences do not have to be that much accurate...I mean, it does not matter a few ohms above or below from either one...

All Diodes are NTE576 or UL505 (Same thing)...However, I have explained in previous posts, long time ago...that using 1N4148 AFTER the NTE576, following the Current Flow...it will do a "Final" Filtering which, depending upon the application, it will "clean" even more the Radiant Flow from Hot residues.

It is ok ntc, I know how you feel...as I know you are anxious to find the truth...be welcome.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Dear Ufopolitics,

I will stick with batteries for now, but may try a PSU later

G'day ntc
Good to see someone new showing interest and the results/findings of their work
When I was replicating UFO's "Happy Motor" circuit I was mainly interested in the aspect of lighting and have built 3 Units of which I use as standby lighting and also use as lighting my workshop on a daily basis.
I did however found that when I applied the circuit to normal wound DC Motors that the torque was nil I did not pursue as UFO suggested/directed to match the coils As I am continuing my building and understanding of asymmetric motors so as to use them as Prime movers first for my Bicycle then onto a mobility type Tricycle and then on to my small Pulsar car.

I did notice you probably intend to use a regulated power supply in place of batteries I did this and damaged my PSU twice and the recommendation from the supplier was to insert a very large capacitor between the PSU and the motor/s I was driving as the spikes will keep damaging it.
Please keep us informed as to your progress

Kindest Regards

Kogs keeping his eyes open

[ntc]

Hello NTC

All the diodes are the same. Electronic goldmine is the company and G18945 (Clickable) is the number of motor we use.
Dana

Hi Dana, That's brilliant, thank you for info. All best, ntc

[iankoglin]

@ cornboy
Thanks for the quick reply. It puts my mind at ease. The price on the soldering station seems pretty reasonable. Could you send that info to me. Would appreciate it.

Cheers

Garry

G'day Garry
My internet has been down. I have found over the years that a lot of problems with circuits and components is that they are not soldered correctly and a dry solder joint is not a good joint and is hard to detect.
When you solder it is not to good to overheat the joint BUT by the same token the joint must be soldered correctly any solder joint must be heated just enough so that the solder becomes fluid and then the Iron must be removed. Here are some good soldering sites so please look and study them.
EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools - YouTube

EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2 - YouTube

EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount - YouTube

I am sure after studying these Video's you will be pleased with yourself when you actually solder your parts into your PCB's.

If in the future If you do have a problem and it may be related to your soldering Using your soldering Iron place it onto the solder joint for a split second and raise it again keep doing this and you will notice that the solder becomes fluid/like a puddle remove the Iron and when the solder is solid it must be a shiny surface.

Kindest Regards

[prochiro]

Hello NTC

All the diodes are the same. Electronic goldmine is the company and G18945 (Clickable) is the number of motor we use.
Dana

[ntc]

For ufopolitics - thank you and questions about cold dc motor

Hello and Welcome ntc !

I am very glad you have made so many testing with this original Coil set up...It's been a while since I do not "play" with this...

Ok, a CFL depends on its Wattage for it to draw a certain amperage, I have run up to 125 W CFL rating (equivalent to 600 Watts Incandescent Lamp) .

Have you watched my YT Videos related to Radiant Energy ?

RADIANT FREE ENERGY - YouTube

As I also recommend:

DEFINING RADIANT ENERGY FIELD (Part 1) - YouTube

The Green Light is just an "Spectrum" that occurs in very short time...to a point it is not visible to our naked eye...just play back your own videos...then your camera IR and Electronic fast Capturing shutters will do show it...

Watch RADIANT_ ENERGY_ULTRAVIOLET_SPECTRUM_GREEN_STROBE - YouTube

Notice that I have to replay video at very slow motion...in order to see the Green Light in normal development for our eyes...However, also notice the UV Spectrum...spreading at environment nano seconds before green strobe...

Related to the Motors you are running...they are too High End for the small coil and set up you have...and that is what I meant when I wrote that sentence...Fields, Magnetic Fields MUST be balanced in order to achieve the Effect. If You try a smaller motor, like the Goldmine Five Poles (550 Body) they will run cold.

Why Coils must match?...Why do we need a bigger battery bank to run properly certain Symmetric Motors?...same thing. Our Radiant Field Capacity depends upon the Geometry and size of our Coils...Think about the Wardenclyffe Tesla Coil...

You could have a bigger Capacity Coil and run smaller motors very cold...however, when you install a brushed symmetric motor that would demand a higher draw from coil...it would overheat either one of the two Fields (Motor Coils or Supplying Coil ).

How do You know your Symmetric Motor Total Coil Resistance?...Easy, just find the attaching point where two wires reach same commutator element hook, it is normally one single wire that "lands" to each hook then keeps going to coil, then to hook and so on till that finishing ending hook...that's starting and end point when they wound it...separate it by spreading/opening hook...just release from hook one terminal (normally is the last wire that was hooked)...then measure resistance from terminal at hook and loose wire end...that's the Total Resistance from Coil when your Motor is running...then replace wire and press hook back...Your Coil Must be Equal or Above that resistance value.

There is more about this...and it occurs that when using a higher capacity motor...drawing more current...then Hot flow over rides Radiant flow within circuit...that is when I did the "Happy Motor" Circuit...and Member Kogs (Ian Koglin) from Australia has made many tests with this set up.

The Happy Motor uses a Secondary Coil to run from Primary...where there is no ferrite nor steel core, but Air...what happens is that we are weakening the Hot Field by doing this...since Hot will only induce a Secondary through a ferrous core...then Secondary would be a higher percentage of Radiant Energy and minimum hot.

At this point I could not find my original diagram for this...so if anyone has it...please post the "Happy Motor" schematics, thanks!

How could you know it is Radiant?

Simple, use a neon bulb at the reverse side...Radiant is a Purple Plasma Ball, Hot is an Orange light like the Normal one you always see on Neons......it will manifest ONLY at very low pulses 6 to 8 Hertz...

RADIANT ENERGIZED NEON - YouTube

Finally, related to Batteries versus Power Source Unit...I rather use batteries...preferably SLA (I have used LiPo's...but they say they are dangerous...) so I only recommend them at your own risk......However, a PSU We could administer the Amperage draw...so, it would be interesting to see the development when lowering current input under load at Coil Output.

Thanks again, and hope this helped you.


Regards


Ufopolitics