My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[sampojo]

Way to tie this whole thread up into one neat little video Cornboy!

Beautiful powerful demo of the using cfls coil and oscillator circuit with the special diode arrangement to get the RE, and just so happens you use a coil off your Asymm motor Just like the beginning of the thread but using all the sophisticated developed driver circuitry for the motor controller. Love that signal generator.

Still working on the circuit myself, got nearly all of the driver/voltage reg circuitry together, waiting on a 4-pin IC socket for the opto-coupler to come in. I put in one IC before I caught on to using sockets. Had a little issue in that area where the red arrow is, the common pad at the link and the opto-coupler only had one hole in it. Managed to make another with a .5mm drill bit.



I am trying to step things up a bit but lots of difficulties, personal, weather here in single digits F, colds, worse. Stalled around commutator connection mechanisms on the motor. Using silver solder to make connections on the old wires on one commutator, but it dont flow as easy as regular solder, of course, and still practicing. Might try tinning with regular solder and then plating over with silver solder... Got a real sweet butane micro-torch, easily gets the temps for the silver solder... Oxidation an issue, any insulation left on mag wire, etc.

@Kogs, glad to hear you are on the mend. Those guys want both my hips :-(

Additional Comment 2/10/14: Good news, all regulator circuitry in place and applied power, getting 11.96v and 4.98v at the regulator outputs!! 4-pin socket in and installed. Spent more time on commutators, welding than anything else.

keep on truckin'

[Lightworker1]

Hello JohnStone, very sorry to hear about your son's accident. Our prayers are with him, you and your family that his recovery is speedy and complete. Wish peaceful and prosperous 2014.

Warmest regards

light

[iankoglin]

Thanks Kogs, thing is, with this design, i need to locate 4 coil halves in each slot, and fit my beautiful wooden wedges in.

I have phisically measured the slot space, by cutting of 150 pieces of wire and cramming them in the slot, wedge and all, and each slot can accomadate at least 132 wires.

Of course there is no substitute, for actually winding the whole thing.

Can't wait, NOT.

Regards Cornboy.

G'day Cornboy
I have done that I cut little pieces and found you can put more little pieces in than what you can wind turns Believe me you will be saving time and wire if you just wind them first just one complete pole and just leave a bit longer say .5 meter not 2 half poles because if you wind one complete pole you can unwind them and like I said use the wire to wind 2 poles.
Remember one full pole is the same as 4 quarter poles and the same as 2 complete poles

When you wind the first complete pole just to see how many winds even though you wind them tight and always on the bottom of the slot each one will push the previous wind up and make sure you keep the winds next to each other as if any cross over the other wind as you can se from your video the wire vibrates and will rub where they cross over also when you wind the real pole you will be more experienced with pulling the wire tight and you may in the end find you probably could have put an extra wind on.
You need really to have the wire up closer to the Stator and beautiful timber wedges will take up more space than fibre glass the more wire the stronger the motor will be.

Be patient do it right and the first time if it is loose remember UFO's accident with his Imperial

Kindest regards



Kogs Talking from experience
I have wound/rewound probably 12 motors

[Cornboy 555]

It is AWESOME to see You back in action Cornboy!

Nice testing, this would serve you to run your MAG3 in Optimal Conditions...please, do not expose for such long time the System on a High Frequency Pulse, when you see that Radiant is gone...no CFL's On...like you did at the end of Vid, Make sure to constantly watch temperature with an IR Gun.



Remember our first Thread...(I saw when you showed my Old Diagram...So, I know you do know it well...)...Remember that at low Hertz, low Frequency square waves have very short T-On's, while larger T-Off's...remember that Radiant enters at the Off Times...

Now, the more we increase Hertz, the less Off Times, and wider On's...less Radiant...till nothing (CFL's) comes On...BUT, remember there was a "sweet spot"...where the CFL's should light up very brightly...and steadily, not blinking...that is what you should start to "hunt/chase" my Dear Friend...then take all parameter readings at that point...also take frequency readings at the Output Side, besides V and A.

Remember I always recommended to "Dial very slowly" while looking for spot.

..and please, check temperature regularly on Coil and FET's with an IR Sensor


Warm Regards Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, i will try, no matter what, to finish, the MAG3 build, and test it to the MAX, ( Duncan with his Reactive Magnetic Current, series resonance. ) has me thinking of some rather inovative different testing. Winding the rotor and stators takes concentration, on # of turns etc, and is best done in the morning (Brain Fresh, time.) this time is always taken up with meanial tasks, of making sure that the Animals, i am responsible for, are satisfied, etc, hence the slow progress.

Once the motor is completed, any testing can be done at night, with free time. Just don't be put off by the garbled, glass of wine description.

Warm Regards cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

@ JOHN STONE, i can only guess at the stress you are encountering at the moment, with your son, i wish you and your family all the very best possible.

ON a lighter note John, i just wanted to let you know, that when i showed your MONSTER circuit diagram and notes to an EE friend of mine, who is also a complete skeptic, ( show me OU and then i will help), the First thing he said was, " He must be over 50 yres old, to construct such a bullet proof circuit, with backup components, to drivers , etc etc, most young ee's just go on what the manufacturer specs are.

This guy is RF trained, and could be a real asset to what we can achieve, but drag him away from his worldly materialistic assets, and on the road, huge camperbus, gusling fuel at an enormas rate, will prove quite a task.

AT this point JOHN, i just want to thank you, for your dedication to the threads on this forum, no matter what happens.

THANK YOU, cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks Kogs, thing is, with this design, i need to locate 4 coil halves in each slot, and fit my beautiful wooden wedges in.

I have phisically measured the slot space, by cutting of 150 pieces of wire and cramming them in the slot, wedge and all, and each slot can accomadate at least 132 wires.

Of course there is no substitute, for actually winding the whole thing.

Can't wait, NOT.

Regards Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Hey Kogs, the wire size is 1.2mm + coating.

Each half coil is 33 turns, 66/ coil pair. as near as i can measure the coil pair is 0.70 ohms.

I havn't measured the commutator on time, for the individual coils yet, but i would expect it to be around 17 degrees, so .7 ohm should be a breeze.

The wire is very loose, and it seems quite high tensile, i packed it when winding, and the first lot of coils dip down to the shaft, to make room for the other 35 coil pairs, hoping to all fit behind the commutators, of course the pulsing has loosend it quite a bit.

If not, i have plan B, which is to move comms out and make up spacers for end plates of motor.

I have 4 litres of insulation varnish, to dip rotor in when finished tested and balanced, which i will do very carefully.

Regards, and hope the pain receeds soon, friend. Cornboy.

G'day Cornboy
I found that when I wound my 1000w Chinese motor it ran cool and I had 1.4-.4=1 ohms on each pole what I did was wound starting from the bottom of the pole and wound one half pole until it was full on each turn I pulled it tight and continued to wind as close to the shaft as I could you must pull it tight no slack each wind seemed when I pulled it tight would move the previous wind up and this seems to be OK when the Half pole is completely full no more room just enough for the hedges I then allowed for say .5 meter extra. Cut the length and strip the ends and measure the ohms do not forget to measure the DMM ohms by touching the DMM prongs together this measurement needs to come of the measurement when you finish each pole.
Then I divided the number of turns by 4 and that was the number of turns for each Half pole i.e. the South half and then I wound the South first CCW pulling tight no slack for each half wind and when I finishes then continued on doing the same for the North pole CW pulling hard each half wind making each wind goes nearest the shaft and as you pull it tight the previous wind climbs up.
As you do this I am sure you will probably have 1 Ohm on each Pole and a tight winding. I actually made a jig to hold the armature in and when I started the wind I fixed it to the commutator then when I finished the total pole I measured the Ohms and this way things kept tidy for me.
Just looking at your Armature I am sure you could fit a lot more turns in. when I was winding my motors I did not think I would have enough room the winds came up past the tang on the comm where the wire is attached but the brushes do not come anywhere near them.
I hope I have been of some help
I am looking forward to see your motor finished
Kindest Regards

Kogs exercising his Knee
The Physio told me that I am doing very good for the amount of time that has elapsed since I had the Total Knee replacement

[Cornboy 555]

Hey Kogs, the wire size is 1.2mm + coating.

Each half coil is 33 turns, 66/ coil pair. as near as i can measure the coil pair is 0.70 ohms.

I havn't measured the commutator on time, for the individual coils yet, but i would expect it to be around 17 degrees, so .7 ohm should be a breeze.

The wire is very loose, and it seems quite high tensile, i packed it when winding, and the first lot of coils dip down to the shaft, to make room for the other 35 coil pairs, hoping to all fit behind the commutators, of course the pulsing has loosend it quite a bit.

If not, i have plan B, which is to move comms out and make up spacers for end plates of motor.

I have 4 litres of insulation varnish, to dip rotor in when finished tested and balanced, which i will do very carefully.

Regards, and hope the pain receeds soon, friend. Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Hello Everyone, finally i have been able to upload a vid of using the JS monster pulser to pulse my first coil pair, in the MAG3 rotor.

Still getting the hang of using video camera and uploading.

Can't understand how i am getting high voltage back through blocking diodes, at low htz.

Will try setting up scope to see whats going on.

00143 - YouTube

Regards Cornboy.

G'day Cornboy555
I am glad you have progressed to this point you must be one happy chappie
Looks great a few questions though what size wire and number of turns per half pole and how many ohms on each pole I think you need to wind or rather pull the wire tight as it seems very loose

Kindest regards to you my friend


Kogs

[Ufopolitics]

Excellent!

Hello Everyone, finally i have been able to upload a vid of using the JS monster pulser to pulse my first coil pair, in the MAG3 rotor.

Still getting the hang of using video camera and uploading.

Can't understand how i am getting high voltage back through blocking diodes, at low htz.

Will try setting up scope to see whats going on.

00143 - YouTube

Regards Cornboy.

It is AWESOME to see You back in action Cornboy!

Nice testing, this would serve you to run your MAG3 in Optimal Conditions...please, do not expose for such long time the System on a High Frequency Pulse, when you see that Radiant is gone...no CFL's On...like you did at the end of Vid, Make sure to constantly watch temperature with an IR Gun.

Can't understand how i am getting high voltage back through blocking diodes, at low htz.

Remember our first Thread...(I saw when you showed my Old Diagram...So, I know you do know it well...)...Remember that at low Hertz, low Frequency square waves have very short T-On's, while larger T-Off's...remember that Radiant enters at the Off Times...

Now, the more we increase Hertz, the less Off Times, and wider On's...less Radiant...till nothing (CFL's) comes On...BUT, remember there was a "sweet spot"...where the CFL's should light up very brightly...and steadily, not blinking...that is what you should start to "hunt/chase" my Dear Friend...then take all parameter readings at that point...also take frequency readings at the Output Side, besides V and A.

Remember I always recommended to "Dial very slowly" while looking for spot.

..and please, check temperature regularly on Coil and FET's with an IR Sensor


Warm Regards Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Mag3-1

Hello Everyone, finally i have been able to upload a vid of using the JS monster pulser to pulse my first coil pair, in the MAG3 rotor.

Still getting the hang of using video camera and uploading.

Can't understand how i am getting high voltage back through blocking diodes, at low htz.

Will try setting up scope to see whats going on.

00143 - YouTube

Regards Cornboy.

[sampojo]

@John Stone, I figured you would say something like that

I am receiving transmissions I think

thank you for your response

Sam

[JohnStone]

@sampojo
Please do not use a pot for gate resistors. It will add more inductance, capacitance, oscillations than it can cure. Please use a fixed resistor.
JS

[Midaztouch]

Sir John Stone

I'm glad to hear that your boy will fully recover. I do wish you and your loved ones a healthy and happy year!

Thank your for your post.

Now back to electronics: Please comprehend a FET / driver system and any component as some conglomerate or artwork built out of pendulums, rubber strings and springs... (or oscillating sheet metal of a car door - if you want)..... Any movement will affect all others. If we approach to limits like 100A / 500V at monster driver those effects need to be taken in account in order to increase efficiency and prevent premature death of components.
At moment this tuning might apply to Midaztouch' bike only.

I will discuss this more with Dana for any potential pitfalls.....We are still moving forward steadily

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[GChilders]

temp sensors

@John Stone

Sorry to hear about your sons unfortunate accident and I am glad to hear he will fully recover. Being involved in off road Motocross when I was younger and riding street motorcycles as well I know how easy it is to end up in the dirt or on the pavement. It doesn't have to be your fault, a careless lane change by an automobile driver can ruin your whole life.

Thanks for the quick answer on the addresses in the temp sensors I just ordered 5 with different addresses. Hopefully these can be programmed on the same line.

I am not sure if you answered Sampojo's question on using a pot, I think that the essential information is to use a 10 to 33 ohm resistor. Am I correct in assuming that this might need to be modified if your setup is high voltage high amperage? But only if there is overheating on the FET's?

Thank you for clarifying that.

Cheers

Garry