My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[lerameur]

unfortunatley I did not take any pictures while working on it. But while I was coiling, the more I was going around, the lenght of the coil was getting longer. The motor works, but this causes the motor to be off balance and vibrates while spinning.
entouka,
Still waiting for the adapter..
a bientot

Joel

[sawa25]

Will see

Sometimes the cause for circuit to "jump" to higher Hz is because of not having your VAR or POT Grounded, touching it with your hands could cause it to jump without starting at zero slowly up...and that is very important to be done, cause the RE starts to develop at very low Hz...like 6-9 Hz
....

On my opinion, you are trying to get a very sensitive circuit to work based on a Bread Board experimental set up...where no soldering is done...NOT GOOD!!

Ufopolitics

Thank you reputable friend!
You will never know, how i am grateful to you.
Only wanted to be sure, that it is(circuit) actual and working somehow, before soldering.

[Ufopolitics]

with the updated version V-Regulator is OK now!

Hello Sawa,

Great!...that is a good restart!

But the rest part seems not tuned yet.
(as i understand in this base circuit the porosity must be constant and the freq must vary)
While rotating VAR the duty of positive part go from 100% to 50% simultaneously whith changing freq from ~100hz to 200hz. I thought freq must start from 0 to ~500hz.

Thanks to all in advance, who will spend time and answer, does the binding (diodes 4148/4005 and VAR and MOV) near 555 timer in UFO circuit for some kind of protection(i did not catch it from thread) and must be connected precisely like in pic from post 2676 (for starting circuit to try see the witch),
or may be i lost some minor changes

The Circuit should start from 0 Hz up to 500 + Hz.

Sometimes the cause for circuit to "jump" to higher Hz is because of not having your VAR or POT Grounded, touching it with your hands could cause it to jump without starting at zero slowly up...and that is very important to be done, cause the RE starts to develop at very low Hz...like 6-9 Hz
The POT is very sensitive tuning...must go very slowly, and I installed a Vernier Dial to make it even slower and more precise.
Vernier Dial comes with a plastic/insulated knob.
If no Vernier...then use a large Plastic knob.

The base using of 555 from wiki explain how to tune freq/duty (see pic) based on R1,R2,C,
but connections on UFO base circuit is not exactly the same.

On the picture you have shown above...correct, it is a 555 in Astable Mode, however, the LC Tank is NOT REGULATED in that Diagram...that is the main difference...it is a FIXED set up.

On my opinion, you are trying to get a very sensitive circuit to work based on a Bread Board experimental set up...where no soldering is done...NOT GOOD!!
This type of oscillators must be done FIXED and Soldered very well to a Real Board with copper lines-wires well attached, making perfect contact, meaning soldered.
Just one semi-loose contact on a bread board pin...would cause the whole thing to malfunction.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[sawa25]

trail behind

Hello Sawa,

Please consider redoing the V-Regulator of LM317 like:
.....
I re did it like this a while back, obtaining the expected output and not decaying when load is present.

Start from here...read output to be 12.8 V...then go from there.
.....
Ufopolitics

with the updated version V-Regulator is OK now!
But the rest part seems not tuned yet.
(as i understand in this base circuit the porosity must be constant and the freq must vary)
While rotating VAR the duty of positive part go from 100% to 50% simultaneously whith changing freq from ~100hz to 200hz. I thought freq must start from 0 to ~500hz.
The base using of 555 from wiki explain how to tune freq/duty (see pic) based on R1,R2,C,
but connections on UFO base circuit is not exactly the same.
Thanks to all in advance, who will spend time and answer, does the binding (diodes 4148/4005 and VAR and MOV) near 555 timer in UFO circuit for some kind of protection(i did not catch it from thread) and must be connected precisely like in pic from post 2676 (for starting circuit to try see the witch),
or may be i lost some minor changes

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO,

I am posting picture here for the moment. I will get a video up and running. I am waiting for the adapter from the machine shop so I connect another dc motor at the output. That will more interesting.

Joel

Hello Joel,

[IMG]

[lerameur]

Hello UFO,

I am posting picture here for the moment. I will get a video up and running. I am waiting for the adapter from the machine shop so I connect another dc motor at the output. That will more interesting.

Joel

[sawa25]

Hello Sawa,

Please consider redoing the V-Regulator of LM317 like:

[IMG][/IMG]

I re did it like this a while back, obtaining the expected output and not decaying when load is present.

Start from here...read output to be 12.8 V...then go from there.

And on Oscillator (555) the Trigger Output Pin is #3...and NOT #2, number two pin (2) is part of the Triggering INPUT...and if you follow it it leads exactly to Potentiometer end resistor leg, after passing by Pin#6...while wiper on POT is from Pin #7.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks you very much, i supposed about it and saw this updated version,
but reading to slow in english and forgot the most of posts and misunderstand a few, while got to end of first thread.
Your patience delights me. You doing to much for all of us, do not pay attention to someone who interferes. I suppose, you feel such opponents
from first lines of their posts. Goblins are everewhere.F*** them all.

[Ufopolitics]

Redo V Regulator First...

Greeting guys, special reverence to UFO.
Here I am with my f***g turbospeed of replication.
I connect components accordingly shem, except that FETs are toshiba 2SK2837 and instead of V.R.250KOm i use 220kOm and 47kOm in series.(w/o coil yet)

as i expected, it did not work for the first time.

first ,please, look on oscillogram:
1.yellow - trigger pin 2 of 555
2.blue - G pin of FET
3.magenta - where the red arrow point +12V - form LM317 output.
4.white - discharge pin 7 of 555, used as sinc for all chanels.
ground crocodile of all chanels connected to -38V(i use two batteries of 18V, 1.2Ah from screwdriver)

advise, who knows,
is it magenta saw looks right? i thought it should be constant and 12V from voltage regulator, but it is not, and it is about 5v.

also rotating pot show me that frequency is not changing properly, but help me first understand about voltage regulator...

Hello Sawa,

Please consider redoing the V-Regulator of LM317 like:

[IMG][/IMG]

I re did it like this a while back, obtaining the expected output and not decaying when load is present.

Start from here...read output to be 12.8 V...then go from there.

And on Oscillator (555) the Trigger Output Pin is #3...and NOT #2, number two pin (2) is part of the Triggering INPUT...and if you follow it it leads exactly to Potentiometer end resistor leg, after passing by Pin#6...while wiper on POT is from Pin #7.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[sawa25]

Base UFO circuit with 6 FET

Greeting guys, special reverence to UFO.
Here I am with my f***g turbospeed of replication.
I connect components accordingly shem, except that FETs are toshiba 2SK2837 and instead of V.R.250KOm i use 220kOm and 47kOm in series.(w/o coil yet)

as i expected, it did not work for the first time.

first ,please, look on oscillogram:
1.yellow - trigger pin 2 of 555
2.blue - G pin of FET
3.magenta - where the red arrow point +12V - form LM317 output.
4.white - discharge pin 7 of 555, used as sinc for all chanels.
ground crocodile of all chanels connected to -38V(i use two batteries of 18V, 1.2Ah from screwdriver)

advise, who knows,
is it magenta saw looks right? i thought it should be constant and 12V from voltage regulator, but it is not, and it is about 5v.

also rotating pot show me that frequency is not changing properly, but help me first understand about voltage regulator...

[Midaztouch]

@ Kogs & Cornboy

Thank you for your quick reply. You guys are awesome! Here is a pic of one of Dana's and John Stone's babies! What do you think, digital or analog?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Here's the back. This is what Dana meant buy heavy overlay.

[Midaztouch]

@ Kogs & Cornboy

Thank you for your quick reply. You guys are awesome! Here is a pic of one of Dana's and John Stone's babies! What do you think, digital or analog?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[iankoglin]

Re Dana's Huge JS Monster

@Team

Cornboy, how are you?

I'm using a Magura throttle. Magura Twist Grip Throttle 0-5K Ohm

I would like to connect it to the driver directly. I have an Arduino, that's an option also.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

G'day Midaz
To use the JS Monster you need 2 other Items
You need a drop down 40v down to 12v power Regulator I purchased one on EBay but it seems they are not there any more

Also you need a 5k pot oscillator that is set to give output duty cycle 0 to 100%

On the Oscillator you should have 6 connections
1=Pot low, 1=Pot wiper , 1=pot high
1=the 12v+, 1=Negative, and 1=Oscillator output

Now the Pot is replaced by the Magura twist hand throttle as it is really a 5k potentiometer
the connections are the:-

Blue wire goes to the high side of the pot
Brown goes to the wiper
Black goes to the low side of the pot

You set the low and high by testing the output from the oscillator with A DMM set to more than Duty cycle
Then place the Black probe to the negative Common and the red probe to the output of the Oscillator the Magura is set that when it is at rest the duty cycle should be 0%) and when you twist it the Duty cycle increases till it reaches 100%(mine only goes 0 to 99%)
If the Magura is reversed that is at rest it reads 100% then just exchange the Blue and the Black wires

The Monster that Dana has built is really a 4 times JS Monster that I believe has one input from the Oscillator But you will have to ask Dana where the connections go and what the voltages are as I think from memory that he upped the voltage to the driver as he was using only one auxiliary input higher than 12v so as to cater for the voltage drop over the 4 Monsters

If you can not find one There is a few on the forum


I hope this helps
Kindest Regards

[Midaztouch]

Hey Midus, what type of throttle are you using?

Are u using an Arduino to supply signal to opto's.

Regards Cornboy.

@Team

Cornboy, how are you?

I'm using a Magura throttle. Magura Twist Grip Throttle 0-5K Ohm

I would like to connect it to the driver directly. I have an Arduino, that's an option also.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Cornboy 555]

Hey Midus, what type of throttle are you using?

Are u using an Arduino to supply signal to opto's.

Regards Cornboy.

[Midaztouch]

Throttle connection

@ Team

What is the best way to connect the throttle to the JS monster?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz