Peter Daysh Davey Water Heater Query

[Ares123]

RESPECT to Your work.

There is no solution without proper execution.

You are simply awesome guys.

Most promising thread I ever encountered (and I saw a lot belive me). Even if all turns to one more desperate attempt it is only thread on OU worth reading. Attitude is what changes people.

[Slovenia]

Design Changes

Design Changes

I decided to make a few design changes to my electrical connection points such as mostly ring holder but then I changed the support for the tubes too. The ring holder scenario was a bit trickier than the can device since it's a whole different ball game in several respects.

[Slovenia]

Innovative

Very innovative. Great ideas!!

Had to make some changes for bigger [ikea] ring ,hope I don't snap it doing a cold stretch because of PVC

[RAMSET]

In the stretch [not the home stretch]



Had to make some changes for bigger [ikea] ring ,hope I don't snap it doing a cold stretch because of PVC




Still gotta stretch .. plus you see I'm still trying to figure an "open" no weld Mount !

[RAMSET]

Setting up 220

WELL WELL WELL

Hows it goin slow poke??

Only kiddin

I had a few problems to sort thru ,220 issues .
I am still not certain we can do things this way with 220 and expect the same results as our European friends.
WE will be mixing phases two 110 lines out of phase with each other?

As opposed to our friends with 50 hz they have one nice [in phase] 220 line that gets a neutral .

We shall see ??
I am actually not even sure if I can get good Watt measurements??

I will attempt to run My two 110 legs into two killowatt meters [one on each phase/leg] I don't know what to expect ?? Could roast my meters??

I'm going back to the shop .....
Chet

[Slovenia]

EU Gap (Serbian Boiler)

EU Gap (Serbian Boiler)

For Europe, the gap remains 2.1mm!!!!

[Slovenia]

US Gap (Serbian Boiler)

for 110 volts it is 1.725mm
for 220 volts it is 2.52mm

This is very important!!!

[Slovenia]

Message from Mr. "C"

Sound Generator Instructions:
First join the sub-woofer to the amplifier and the computer and launch mono tone generator output and enroll 60 Hz. It is used a tone not three.
Cap the cans can play at 120,180,240,300 Hz it was 2.52 mm otstojanju at 220 V or 1.725mm at 110 V 60 Hz for maximum efficiency boiler.
Cap is made of steel for the battle of the bells and brass 70 mm diameter, 0.5 mm thick it is playing at 228.57 Hz and must be slimmed down to 180 Hz to 200 Hz USA or EU.
Frekvenciometrom must measure the frequency of bells.

Peter Davey Info.:
When the original sonic boiler Mr Peter Davey ball is made of brass or silver plays on a cap 1000hr playing of steel or brass to 350 Hz within the ball nlazi is another cap of hard steel at 49 Hz. It is 2.1 mm from the ball which enters a little water that enters from the bottom of the ball.
highly heated vapors from the ball goes out through tiny holes under the cap and a very heated water.
phase is connected to the cap inside the sphere and zero for the top hat.
I am not able to create original sonic boiler because I had a quality hard steel for the inner cup, because the material was shot in the polishing.

[Slovenia]

Dreams

Hi Daemonbart,

I wish I had those dreams you get. You get some great information in those dreams. Thanks for sharing that.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

In my dreams one thing hit me! As an old hobby sound engineer I came to dream about problems with acoustic shortcut, this happens when speaker elements are not placed in baffle or box!

The moving air from cone in speaker, damping the other side of cone because the lenght from one side to another is shorter than sound wavelength!

Maybe we should also look for methods to isolate one side of boiler element from the other??

Just an input I was hit by!

Best regards D

[daemonbart]

Acoustic shortcut??

In my dreams one thing hit me! As an old hobby sound engineer I came to dream about problems with acoustic shortcut, this happens when speaker elements are not placed in baffle or box!

The moving air from cone in speaker, damping the other side of cone because the lenght from one side to another is shorter than sound wavelength!

Maybe we should also look for methods to isolate one side of boiler element from the other??

Just an input I was hit by!

Best regards D

[Slovenia]

Ares123

Hi Ares123,

Mr. "C" just replicated a US version of his boiler and had to make some changes from his original design to make it work properly. He had some problems too. He had to change the dimensions of the US ring to 10mm height/width instead of the 5mm dimension he had been used to using for Europe. When the can is tuned properly the ring is supposed to make it ring at 300 Hz in US but he was only able to get it to ring at 320 which is close but not quite what he wanted to do. He kept telling us that the most important thing was to make sure the can was tuned properly before proceeding to the next phase of the project. He said he spent two hours a day for many days tuning his can until he got it perfectly tuned. He said he sanded his can by hand with the finest grade sand paper he could get. He always refers to putting a taper on his can.

With regard to the IKEA flask, we don't have to much information yet. Our contact wants our flasks in the water to show we are really serious, and then he has promised to guide us. We don't know what his recommended ring arrangement is and/or how he sands the flask either. Anyway, we will get some flasks in the water today for a preliminary test and hopefully we will get some more instruction soon.

Thanks for sharing on this thread. You are a very smart guy. We can use your expertise here on this thread. We are very serious replicators here and plan to show you some good results very soon.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Thank You S.
You are a good person.
Thank you for sharing all with us.

I will calm my sceptic inside and try to help with my findings.
When there be some more.

Two stages are important - tuning can and ring to exact mechanical resonance.
So there is question is just cutting Ikea flask enough becouse it seems a lot more work to proper tune stainless than can?

B.R.

[Ares123]

Thank You S.
You are a good person.
Thank you for sharing all with us.

I will calm my sceptic inside and try to help with my findings.
When there be some more.

Two stages are important - tuning can and ring to exact mechanical resonance.
So there is question is just cutting Ikea flask enough becouse it seems a lot more work to proper tune stainless than can?

B.R.

[Slovenia]

New Boiler of Mr. "C"

Hi Jason,

I don't have any details on the new boiler other than what was shown in the diagram. I am very sure the cover for the can in the diagram is a cap as you call it with multiple functions such as but not limited to neutral electrode with a better way of tuning in the exact gap. The blue line is the water level I think. It would appear to be. Mr. "C" checks out follows this thread really closely, so you can thank him personally on this thread for what he has shared if you like. He'll appreciate that very much. I'll also thank him for you.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Slovenia,
The new boiler looks interesting! Is the arched cap over the top of the can a ring or more like a "lid"? and the blue line? Im sure you will share when you get more information. The other night i was messing with trying to make my own "can" out of .010" stainless shim stock. It can be done, but will have to "brake" afew lips on it like you do your rings to get it to hook and stay round. I think a person could then slide an aluminum can into the stainless sheath and pop rivit that in place. I am still trying to tune my can, will report when I get some good results. please tell Mr. C Thanks for shareing all of this with us!
Regards.. JAson

[Slovenia]

Instruction for tone generator

Hi Jason,

No, he didn't send any. He usually waiting for me to ask specific questions before he goes into deeper detail. I will ask him for you. He usually gets back to me very quickly.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Oh yea Slovenia.
Did Mr C send any instruction with the tone generator? as in what sample rate he reccommends or one,two or three tones while tuning?
Thanks! Jason

[Slovenia]

Skeptic

Hi Ares123,

I'm glad you responded back to my post. I do understand skepticism. I have been chasing a dream of over unity for ten years but up until now nobody shared all the details with me to get me there. As you say, we have several different things going on at the same time and this can be confusing if you are not following us closely. Also, each of the two projects is different enough to cause some confusion. As for sharing, we have two separate individuals sharing details and they went about their experiments quite differently. I would say you are a very sharp fellow, and that is working against you with regard to this project. There is some math involved with both these devices that is very difficult and would confound many on this thread and so it has not been shared. Mr. "C" knows the math and has agreed to even do it for someone if they have problems with their setups. We are not wanting to get bogged down with the theory related to why and how these devices work. We just want to build some proof of concept boilers to prove the concept and get more guys interested in these devices. With regard to Mr. "C" stuff, he has shared all we need to know to make a device like his. His exact technique for sanding he hasn't shared, but he has said he spends two hours a day for many days sanding and tapering his beer can, with the finest sand paper he can get, to get it to the most fine tune of 50 Hz he can get. We don't have any further details on the latest boiler of Mr. "C" other than what was just posted. You are the first to comment on that latest boiler, so up to now it has been forgotten and I am busy competing with Chet to get my IKEA boiler in the water first. So, I am very busy indeed. Mr. "C" has agreed to help us if we need help and so far we have not asked him for any further help. We are still trying to figure out how to apply all he has shared without troubling him to much. As for Mr. IKEA, he has not shared a lot yet but has promised to share more if we'll get his device in the water and attempt to make good with the experiment. I understand this. It is easy to be a skeptic at this forum, because you can see so many people studying so many different devices and in the final analysis most of them are dropped without successful replications after a short time never to be studied again. As you can see, we have many serious guys studying these devices and trying to replicate them. Most of us are seasoned soldiers in this effort and we believe in this device. We believe in the people who have shared with us. We are working together well and have much expertise between ourselves to insure this project comes to a good conclusion. There are at least four of us building these devices out in the open where you can see what we are doing and we are sharing and will share what we see and find out by trial and error. We want this project to be successful and are each giving a lot of time and effort to insure this fact. We also work well together and compare notes before making stupid decisions. We don't have all the particulars on the IKEA boiler yet, but I'm sure we will have that soon.

Anyway, thanks for getting back to me. We would like you to join in and help us. There are many ways for you to do this. We are working with different arrangements for hanging the rings and adjusting them as well as methods for holding the IKEA flask in an inverted manner. Because the IKEA flask is being held inverted into the reservoir, it is going to require some different design parameters for adjusting and holding the ring. The IKEA will probably have to be part of an assembly with everything adjustable and self contained before it goes in the water. A one piece completed assembly that drops into the water if you understand me. We are still working out the design kinks on some of these things and could use some help. The more good ideas the better. Right now we need help not skeptics. You will see the results you are seeking soon. We will publicize all this when we have the details and are happy with them.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Hi S.

No I was out , I am not online every day, so excuse me to seem that way.
I see that you are in serious job , i am impressed with your work.

I am sceptic only on part of tunning, because even untuned boiler will work, but i really doubt this is cop of 1 let alone >1 whitout proper tuning.

Also one note with sanding can - you must do that with bolt - holder in place exactly setup will look in action because if you tune can whitout , frequency will change.

So that is my matter with al that "misters" around here There are no exact true specifications and math behind calculations. And specs changes all the time.

What is the gap between top and can in last MR.C scheme? And what is diameter of it.

Ikea flask - That one who have workable version should just tell exactly point of cutting and sanding it.

Ramset - as pointed out sanding is delicate job and tunning can take days, so I dont see shortcuts even at Ikea flask, except if cut at proper size does exact tunning.

As i said All setups will work without tunning so is easily mistaken with that that setup has cop >1.

I have no pictures, i have no working(in tune all parts ) When I will get there will post exact specifcations to do it.

Here you have one proper tool
to question revealed measures.
Also keep in mind temperature changes. And discover at witch temp and freq is ring 5mm (multiplied or divided by 10)

Resonances of open air columns