Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[Zooty]

My cousin is coming over to help me with the o scope shots. The one problem I am having is that I am seeing the standard ac signal where it should not be. When I set the oscope to .5 us with a .2 volts/cm I am seeing very weird results. Kinda like 5000 little lines all vibrating along the waveform. It seems to me this is not right so I asked my cousin to come over and help me with the o scope he gave me.

If the scope is showing what I think it is showing then there are a lot of things happening in this setup that we are not understanding. When I change the volts per cm to .5 I get a modulated ac waveform that has thick traces that are vibrating. When i zoomed in I could see that there are clear sub lines that are vibrating as well. The further I zoomed in they became faint but I can just barely make out a million little lines acting like strings on a guitar.

I am a noob to the scope but I think I am seeing this and it is not a mistake. I will know more tomorrow when he comes on that part.

Make sure you use the ground part of the scope probe as well. I get the same result just touching a piece of metal in the room if i just use the positive part of the probe. The reading should give it away as it will probably be in the millivolts if not grounded.

[Jbignes5]

Really?

Unfortunately, none of it is free when you correctly and precisely measure the input and compare it to the output. The LED blips aren't correct measurements and are misleadings to say the least. If you were to compare the input power versus what it takes to blip twice the LEDs, you would have seen that your efficiency is not even close to 1. As a matter of fact, it should be significantly less than 1.

The self-charging effect itself can be explained through magnetic induction. At first, you going to say if there is no coil, how could you be talking about EM induction. But wait, when you short the two plates together, you effectively turn them into a coil suceptible to EM induction. One way to prove this is to shield the captret from any EM field, you will see that the self charging effect disappears. Now, keep it shielded and spin a wheel with permanent magnets inside the cage, you will see the captret starts to charge again. At this point, there should be no doubt as to the source of the self-charging effects or what causes the captret to self-charge.

The point here is that none of it is free unfortunately. But keep looking, there might still be some good out of it. Please, don't call me Mr. Bring Down again. I am just trying to help providing the scientific explanation behind what might seems magical but nonetheless very basic.

Miki Out.

The response I gave was not of the basic capret. It is of the battery capret and a load like an led. If the capret was working like you said where is this magic magnetic field coming from. If I remember my basic physics aluminum doesn't act nor respond to magnetic fields like you are saying.

If this has anything to do with fields it would be the static electric fields and not this magnetic field you are talking about. Tell me how we are using current but yet the battery seems unaffected by such a current drain. You must remember we are using bad batteries as well. Mine is a 12 volt 12ah gel cell and it seems to operate this setup without loosing voltage. In fact once the setup is started it drains the appropriate voltage then slowly climbs back up to where it started. So if that is not free work then what is?

50% of free work is still free no matter how you look at it...

[miki02131]

Well whats 50% of free?

Unfortunately, none of it is free when you correctly and precisely measure the input and compare it to the output. The LED blips aren't correct measurements and are misleadings to say the least. If you were to compare the input power versus what it takes to blip twice the LEDs, you would have seen that your efficiency is not even close to 1. As a matter of fact, it should be significantly less than 1.

The self-charging effect itself can be explained through magnetic induction. At first, you going to say if there is no coil, how could you be talking about EM induction. But wait, when you short the two plates together, you effectively turn them into a coil suceptible to EM induction. One way to prove this is to shield the captret from any EM field, you will see that the self charging effect disappears. Now, keep it shielded and spin a wheel with permanent magnets inside the cage, you will see the captret starts to charge again. At this point, there should be no doubt as to the source of the self-charging effects or what causes the captret to self-charge.

The point here is that none of it is free unfortunately. But keep looking, there might still be some good out of it. Please, don't call me Mr. Bring Down again. I am just trying to help providing the scientific explanation behind what might seems magical but nonetheless very basic.

Miki Out.

[Jbignes5]

Could you do me a big favor....

Heres is an updated video. Youtube seems to be processing very slow but will edit video link(youtube) there later. My youtube clone Energetictube.com is faster! Yay!

Most of the current readings in my oscilloscope are registering negative current flow to the ignition coil. Now after 4 hours of running my setup as shown in my video there is still no change in the pulse or charge in the primary battery. I've removed the secondary battery to simplify and eliminate the possibility that it was some how feeding the circuit.

My Captret is a 1000uf 25volt cap (pretty big) and I'm getting the impression that the 15watt florescent is not going to stop running, albeit not all that bright.

Could you setup another cap and led unit and just give me a shot of the scope of that setup from across the cap terminals or various spots like the battery. I wanted to see if you got the same waveform that I am getting... YOu might want to zoom in on the scope to like .05 volts with 5 us and show that...

Also you can get a boost in the caps strength by using multiple caps in parallel if you need it...

Thank you!

[Jbignes5]

It's the best I can do...

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

My cousin is coming over to help me with the o scope shots. The one problem I am having is that I am seeing the standard ac signal where it should not be. When I set the oscope to .5 us with a .2 volts/cm I am seeing very weird results. Kinda like 5000 little lines all vibrating along the waveform. It seems to me this is not right so I asked my cousin to come over and help me with the o scope he gave me.

If the scope is showing what I think it is showing then there are a lot of things happening in this setup that we are not understanding. When I change the volts per cm to .5 I get a modulated ac waveform that has thick traces that are vibrating. When i zoomed in I could see that there are clear sub lines that are vibrating as well. The further I zoomed in they became faint but I can just barely make out a million little lines acting like strings on a guitar.

I am a noob to the scope but I think I am seeing this and it is not a mistake. I will know more tomorrow when he comes on that part.

As for the additional caps well I wanted to see what the cap had an effect on. It seems that it makes the potential stronger between the plates and can sustain more leds and brighter as well. So I just kept piling them on and low and behold every time i added some it got brighter so I would suspect that the size of the caps has a big effect on the ability to sustain loads.

As we speak even with the higher drain on current that my meter is telling me the battery is coming back to 10.2 volts.

*Tip* When using multiple caps you can always put a small sheet of aluminum foil under the caps. The weight is enough to keep a moderate pressure to hold them on the foil. Then all you need is one clip to the foil and one to the neg of the battery... walla....

[broli]

Someone should try the captret on a dead cell phone battery. And leave it be at least 24 hours or more. When you put it back and use the phone you'll have a good indication of how well it "charged" it.

[thedude]

still running after 4 hours lighting flourecent light.

Heres is an updated video. Youtube seems to be processing very slow but will edit video link(youtube) there later. My youtube clone Energetictube.com is faster! Yay!

Most of the current readings in my oscilloscope are registering negative current flow to the ignition coil. Now after 4 hours of running my setup as shown in my video there is still no change in the pulse or charge in the primary battery. I've removed the secondary battery to simplify and eliminate the possibility that it was some how feeding the circuit.

My Captret is a 1000uf 25volt cap (pretty big) and I'm getting the impression that the 15watt florescent is not going to stop running, albeit not all that bright.

[Freezer]

I tried the captret, using a 1mF 63v cap, and a green blinking led (lights very dim). After an hour plugged in, the voltage is still slowly climbing. I will leave it be, and see what happens.

[DrStiffler]

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

So what kind of scientific data can you provide here? As I see most "Slayer" exciters draw in excess of 100mA and many in the near 1kmA range. So you are trying to say you are able to draw from a 200-500k ohm resistance that amount of current from what kind of power source, 300V or more???

What kind of game are you playing with everyone here??

[boguslaw]

IF you have a precise ammeter then I propose to charge capacitor via LED diode and ammeter, measure leaking current if any after fully charged capacitor, then connect another led diode from top of capacitor to minus and check is there is any change in ammeter. The check what is going on when shorting capacitor top with minus (which is supposed to charge capacitor if I correctly remembered)

[seth]

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

[DrStiffler]

As I play with this setup I am discovering that the more caps you put in parallel the stronger the leds light. I doubt it matters what size the caps are because I have a good mix of rather large caps and as the caps charge up the battery recovers back to the level they were before the addition of the new caps. I have 5 leds now lit so brightly that I can not look at them for too long directly. I think the caps are little current pools. which we are using to create a stronger potential difference between the two polarities of the caps.

I think we are creating the first inductive charge pump that works from potential only. I am about to test for current again and I'll let you know in an edit of this all the particulars.

This is because the Phantom Diode resistance Rp is in parallel with the other Rp's and follows ohms law Rt = 1/ (1/Rp1 +1/Rp2 + 1/Rp3 ...)

[Jbignes5]

An important discovery.

As I play with this setup I am discovering that the more caps you put in parallel the stronger the leds light. I doubt it matters what size the caps are because I have a good mix of rather large caps and as the caps charge up the battery recovers back to the level they were before the addition of the new caps. I have 5 leds now lit so brightly that I can not look at them for too long directly. I think the caps are little current pools. which we are using to create a stronger potential difference between the two polarities of the caps.

I think we are creating the first inductive charge pump that works from potential only. I am about to test for current again and I'll let you know in an edit of this all the particulars.

The setup I now have is 5 caps all in parallel.

2- 820 uf 200v
2- 470 uf 200v
1- 220 uf 200v

the battery started at 10.2 this morning it is now at 10.06 because of all the additions but it is going up. the leds are running at 2.81v between the leads of the cap bank and the whole circuit reports 17.2ma with 5 leds. 15.5ma with just one.

Even though my current has increased the battery is still gaining in voltage like the circuit isn't even connected at all. There has to be a feed back that we are not seeing maybe this virtual diode is feeding back some potential to the battery somehow. it doesn't seem to add up...

[DrStiffler]

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@All
Looking at Plego's vids I see he has some meters with 4 or more decimal places and would like to say something about measurements. Only go to two decimal places, all the rest is fluff. Also look at your meter specs and see what the resolution is; in other words the meters will have an accuracy and a resolution in digits of accuracy. Lets assume your meter is at STP and it is a + or - 1 digit for 2% accuracy, so you can range from +/- 2% and then vary +/- 1 digit. So ignore the fluff find if your meter is telling you the truth or you are seeing only normal fluctuation. As I stated and stated in the finished web page, the temperature of the LED changes and the Vf changes which has a resulting drop in If, nothing unknown here, just watch both Vf and If over time and you can plot a graph that shows the relation.

A capacitor if it is pre-charged will dump the excess to where? It will only pass thru the LED based on the LED's forward If which is a function of its Rf.

If the capacitor is not charged at first it will pull an initial charge from the battery limited only by the phantom diodes forward resistance and this value varies up and down.

Measure you LED light output and you will see that it goes down alone with the circuit current.

[Joit]

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