Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[freindhacka]

Ok, H2O = H2+ O1- or water, it has a natural valence. if you split water, incidentally, two hydrogen cancel out one oxygen, but due to the amount of space they occupy individually, oxygen is the more prominent conductor thus water is a Negative potential carrier. Two hydrogens occupy more space, and the oxygen itself is more dense. Capacitors do not work the way you think. All energy undergoes the flow via Skin effect. Caps do not let energy flow through them but in fact energy envelopes the skins of the structure and bouncing off the dialectric like a superconductor via/skin/corona effect. If you want to avoid arcing or losses you smooth all the flat edges, flow does not like sharp edges. Also the way optical lenses work. Look at pictures of the egyptian lightbulb, they are disk shaped but rounded and slightly parabolic. Egyptians were very detailed. All these phenomenon are akin to the way crystalline/crystal structures behave. If you remove the water from them they get tighter and the energy flows across their surfaces faster and skips from point to point, in fact moving faster than energy could across a flat surface. This inspired tesla with his disk turbine. He referred to it i guess as a kind of surface tension or stickyness like water has when it runs off your windshield. When you make a capacitor out of two dissimilar metals you get a valence, like copper and zinc, the energy wants to flow towards the denser charge just like in a magnet. This is what causes decay, the smaller magnet is getting absorbed by the bigger charge, it wants to BECOME more powerful charge. So bigger purer portions will decay off while the impurities are the salts buildup or corrosion that we see.

If you build a battery out of identical plates, there is even less mass exchange because the magnets are all the same charge/base/metal. Like aluminum plates or lead plates. Now the energy will either store as waves/ridges/mountains on the surfaces of the plates or if the dialectric is strong enough it will simply skip through the cap/battery as pure potential. Storing energy causes it to lag. It's like saying the more felxible your potential is the more of a frequency you can compound on it, then send it to a higher voltage less flexible cap and it will POP an WARP, look up Tom Browns Gravitators. Your captret effect is acting like a negative diode and if you can match the shape/flow of the bigger plat smaller plate you can direct which way you want that flow to move. + is generally the highest potential force, like the earths N magnetic pole. You can probable replace any all semiconductors/diodes/transistors with water/phantom/simplex circuit. If you use similar metals, you will experience little to no corrosion and if you match the frequencies that the materials naturally like, you should never experience any "Drain" or lag on the materials. I believe this is why crystal cells work soo well, although they DO decay, the effects are minimal and lifelong~close to. If capacitors are made out of half circles instead of square/rectangular plates you get different "effects." Look at the pictures of some vimanas. I really would like someone to experiment with some phantom/simplex circuits in place of diodes/transistors for these exciter circuits.

The entire earth system is a free energy semiconductor circuit lol. Tubes/horns amplify sounds right? Perhaps there's a link between shape/sound/frequency/valence/numbers etc. My mind keeps going back to the wheel/tarot/zodiac/elemental/spirals/condensers/colors/tones. The compass of the universe doesn't have just NSEW, it also has UP and BENT/warp to the 90 Up. I guess we could say momentum/inertia, The Zero and the one, so a loop/spiral then a square cap with a Triangle or diode/transistor, each of them represent one of the fundamental shapes of the platonic solids. They say the hexagram is for levitation/carbon7 perhaps the way it is bonded will indicate a pathway/flow for energy to take. and we can mimic that in a circuit. Which shape represents illumination etc. I think we are still on the basics, which is fine lol, have to crawl before we can walk right. I've been trying to electronically find substitutes for the major things


I also remember seeing victor grebennikovs bug wings, they appeared to be like triangular cells that fractaled into some zero symmetry. As they kept ascending and descending. Like our coils do.


I always wondered why they found a human footprint in precambrian rock. IF humans landed here giligan style, with no life whatsoever, there must have been some simple way to do things. Perhaps energetically speaking things were different then as well lol. I believe as well, that the secrets are embedded in our languages, mathematics, geometry etc. These free energy devices do not create energy from nothing, they are soaking up the finest latent magnetic particles of the universe. Waves projected warp space in such a way it creates a fold/vortex that energy seamlessly centrifuges downward. If you example water and how it flows, should inspire some of us, nothing likes 90 degree bends except when it's squirting/propelling. Cogs like to go from smaller to bigger or bigger to smaller, so do condensers.

Please excuse my ramblings.

[Jeff Pearson]

I took apart 3 caps. none of them looked like they used aluminum for anode and cathode. the thicker one was something else. maybe zinc? two smaller ones smelled like ammonia, larger one smelled like brake fluid (fine oil). In my experiments with earth batteries I noticed they act more like self charging caps than batteries......so now I want to roll one up with copper and aluminum foil with a third foil electrode spiraled around the whole thing. Will be using plain water or a light oil. It has been my experience anything added to the water increases current but is destructive. Thanks for sharing this effect.

[aaron5120]

You R welcome, my friend. And nevermind with the setback, everyday we learn something!

[rickinva]

Sorry, false alarm!!!

When I tested the capacitor for a connection between the case and the negative terminal, I got 0 ohms as the resistance. So, regretfully, things are just as bright because it IS a direct connect with the battery.

Thanks Aaron for enlightening me about the possibility. My knowledge of electronic components leaves a lot to be desired.

When I took another capacitor of 48000 microfarads which did not have a low resistance between the case and the negative or positive terminals of the capacitor, the light lit up as expected, but extremely weak. So, its back to the drawing board.

Again SORRY for the false alarm.

[rickinva]

Hi, Rickinva,

...

Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.

---

I'll test for that and get back to you.

Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.


aaron5120

I still can't provide a picture, but here is a link to where I bought it:

Energizer LED Red Folding Lantern-FL452WRH at The Home Depot

[aaron5120]

Hi, Rickinva,
I am quite happy you have found a match by accident with this captret thing, applying it to a camping light.
Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.
Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.
Keep up the good work, my friend.

aaron5120

[rickinva]

Rickinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120

As for lasting indefinitely, I honestly don't know. Alkaline batteries may eat their way through the casing in time. but the LED has at most a 10,000 hour burn time, so it should burn out in a year and a third/quarter. Whether it will burn out faster, remains to be seen.

I am also using a 12 VDC 5 AH lead acid gel battery that was run down to a little more than 4.5 V under load that has gone down and holding at 3.24 VDC with a 10000 microfarad 100 V capacitor lighting a Ultra Bright 10 mm LED rated at 20 mA 3.5 to 4.0 VDC. The LED is "fairly bright", but no where near full brightness, but holding it own for the past two weeks.

Since I don't use the "capacitor portion" (both positive AND negative terminals) of the Ultracaps (only the negative terminal and the capacitor's case, there is no "charging up" of the capacitor at all. Neither does the setup charge the batteries. In fact, fully charged batteries run down part way and then seem to find a point at which they hold that level of charge.

Regretfully, I don't know any formulas, as yet, that will tell us where that point is. Also, the amount of light you get from your LED/s seems to depend on the size of the capacitor/s being used to serve as the captret (electret cap) and I know of no formulas to determine the ideal size to use for a given LED setup and battery voltage.

I am excited at a new experiment I just started today (so it is a bit early to tell how well it is going to work or for how long).

I bought an "Energizer" potable 8 LED Red (plastic) "Lantern", intended for camping, etc. I cut the black (negative) wire in two, going from the 4 "D" Cell internal battery pack to the little printed circuit board holding the light's on/off switch. I connected the wire part going to the negative base of the battery pack to the case of a 50,000 microfarad 15WVDC capacitor from Capacitor Technologies and the other piece of cut wire (going to the switch pcb) was connected to the capacitor's negative terminal.

To my complete surprise, the unit lit up to the same brightness as it did when the battery pack is connected directly to the switch pcb.

I kept switching back and forth between the capacitor connections and direct connect and for the life of me, I can't see any real difference in amount of brightness (where as all my other experiments showed less light from the LED/s with the capacitor connected verses direct connections of the LED/s and their powering battery/ies. I showed it to two other friends and they couldn't see a light brightness difference either.

So, apparently for the LED setup for this particular portable lantern and this particular 50,000 microfarad capacitor with that particular case surface area, plate structure inside and electrolyte used, it seems to be a perfect match with 6 VDC (4 D size Alkaline batteries). Now all that remains is to see if the voltage holds at a level that will keeps things as they are now. They have been for 4 hours so far.

As for photos of the set ups, I'll do my best to try to take some and post them, IF things seem to keep working.

But for replication purposes:

Connect a wire lead to the case of whatever electrolyte capacitor you want to use as the "captret"/"electret cap" and one to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

Wiring setup:

(1) Connect the capacitor's case lead to the negative terminal of your battery source.

(2) Connect the positive lead of your battery source to the positive lead of whatever LED/s you plan on using.

(3) Finally, connect the capacitor's negative "terminal" lead to the negative lead of the LED/s and say the magic words "Let there be light". And "lo and behold" it will appear.

[Nick_Z]

Guys:
It's been a while since I last worked on the captret devices, but I was thinking that they may work even better if a home made cell (battery) were incorporated into the system. Like an activated carbon/Magnesium cell. Or carbon/aluminum cell. My cells are still producing an output even after a couple of years, which can help to maintain the voltages on the regular batteries/capacitors at a higher levels. Which would produce a brighter light from the leds. A couple of cells can produce 2.5 volts or so, and about 10 to 20 mA.
Also using a Lasersaber cross-over type circuit can also be used.
Just some ideas...
Nick_Z

[aaron5120]

Rikinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120

[rickinva]

Did anyone noticed the same effect when cap + is disconected from the circuit?

I have been experimenting with but do NOT use the plus terminal on the electretcap at all. I have several experiments going.

#1

(1) a Radioshack Ultra High Brightness 10 mm White LED (part # 276-0005) 20 mA 3.5 - 4.0 VDC 28,500mcd intensity

(3) GAA Panasonic 100 VDC 10000 microF capacitors with a part of the metal case exposed to form one terminal of the electretcap and the negative terminal of the capacitor as the second terminal of the electretcap (the positive terminal of the cap is not used at all)

(1) 3 VDC battery holder

(2) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

The negative of the battery pack is connected to the case of each of the 3 capacitors.

The positive of the battery pack is connected to the positive lead of the LED.

The negative lead of the LED is connected to the negative terminal of each of the 3 capacitors.

The LED is lit so brightly that I can not look directly into it and more than bright enough to read by if used like a pencell flashlight. The voltage across the battery pack has been holding at 2 89 VDC @ 3.59 mA for over 24 hours and the LED has been connected and lit full time for over 3 days now.

#2

(1) Same Radioshack #276-0005 single Ultra High Brightness White LED

(1) Maxwell Technologies BoostCap Type BCAP0010 A08 2600 F 2.5VDC Ultracapacitor with case exposed to form one of the electretcap terminals used.

(1) Radioshack 6 VDC 4 AA battery pack holder

(4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

Same exact setup (positive terminal of capacitor unused)

Case of capacitor connected to the negative terminal of the battery pack.

Positive terminal of the battery pack connected to the positive lead of the LED.

Negative lead of the LED connected to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

LED just as bright as in #1 above

8.66 mA and 5.99 VDC across the battery.

#3 I bought a 100 LED flashlight that normally runs on (4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries.

It comes with a (4) AA battery holder that slips inside the flashlight handle case.

I bored a 1/8" dia hole in the base cap of the flashlight, so (2) 20 AWG insulated wires could exit out of the flashlight case.

I connected one of the two 20 AWG wires to the negative terminal of the battery holder. Then I inserted a piece of plasticized thin cardboard between the negative of the battery (that would have made contact with the negative terminal of the battery pack) and the negative terminal of the battery pack itself (to prevent electrical contact).

Then slipped the exposed end of the second 20 AWG insulated wire between the negative base of that battery and the insulating piece.

And reassembled the flashlight. With the other ends of both 20 AWG wires run outside of the flashlight case, if I turned the switch of the flashlight on, no light was emitted from the 100 LEDs. If I connected the two wire ends together the flashlight lit normally.

Then I connected the wire connected to the negative end of the battery in the battery pack, to the case of (2) Maxwell super capacitors (listed in #2 above) and the negative terminal of the (2) negative terminals of the (2) super capacitors and the flashlight immediately lit up to what appeared to be about 60% +/- of the normal brightness of the flashlight head. I've ordered some more super capacitors and will try to find a combination that produces nearly full intensity of the flashlight.

It is using 15.74 mA but I have no convenient way of measuring the voltage because the positive connections are deep inside the case and I didn't think to run a positive lead outside for measuring purposes.

[mcmlxii]

you cant claim overunity because 1 charge = 2 flashes. that would be comparing apples to oranges. you would have to measure the charge going in and compare it to the 2 charges coming out to see if they were a greater energy.

my captret replication increased the voltage on a series of 3 old 3v button batteries from 6.63v to 8.65v over a period of 5 hours. when I took the batteries out of the circuit and loaded them with 1k resistor v dropped to 2.7v in seconds. kinda like the battery was acting like a cap.

It does look like it would light an led for a very long time though.

[stevecmagni1]

Stevec

Hello Ibepointless2.
I was going to read the complete Forum And then post till reading this. And I Just wanted you to know ( I CARE ) and so do a lot of others.So don't give up And THANK YOU. Tec

I CARE as well, well done for finding out some thing really unusual and new from almost nothing. Thanks for persisting to the end, despite the usual arm chair critics.

"Some times when some one knows nothing about a subject, they DON'T know what is impossible to do!" Awesome!

[stevecmagni1]

Stevec

I just ran a test using a crystal oscillator powered by the captret and the output was interesting. The current draw on the system was 1.1ma using a 9v battery with 8.15 volts showing. A 47uf 50v cap was used with this test. The output of the 1Mhz crystal was about 9 volts. I added a coil tuned for the chip and the voltage jumped to 15.5 volts at the open lead of the coil.

The same captret configuration powering Dr. Stifflers Sec18 uses .8 ma and produces 38 volts on the output coil.

It would seem you can produce a reasonable low power signal oscillator to drive more LED's or charge external caps with the same low input. The captret provides a nice stable voltage/current regulator for driving other projects.

I also used some UV LED's to see if they would power some tiny solar cells, they did produce aroud 4 volts of output at the cell but the current was very low at around .1ma while the captret circuit was running at around 2ma driving those LED's. Pretty poor efficiency on the UV output but an interesing test none the less. It may take the proper UV LED to actually match the solar cell to produce a reasonable output - all I had available was the bright blue.

Please try and power a Hartley oscillator with it, they run at power levels of micro amps. Great work in working out practical ways to utilise this strange effect.

[ibpointless2]

ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.

Hello the water captret was to study the effect more and get a better understanding. All electronic components are affected by heat and pressure so the main reason for the power in the captret was not from heat energy. The Main reason for the extra energy has to do with the dielectric materials will create voltage. But I and many others have played with the idea of a solar panel made of capacitor. We found out that the cheap ceramic capacitors that no one really wants because of them being affected by heat could be use to collect solar energy. Paint the capacitors black and put a spark gap on them and have the charge a battery heres a link for more on the idea Captret - Capacitor and Electret

[bugler]

ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.