Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[automan]

Captret tester

Hi IBpointless2 & JBig,
I have built a captret w/2 470uf 200v caps and I'm testing a .2uf 5.5v Super Cap as the battery with no LED. I get all kinds of different readings for voltage at the Super Cap from .32 to .47 and back down, several cycles now. Its been running for about 6 hrs and its at .37 and climbing slowly. The captret effect is better with higher voltage matched pair caps. It is my opinion that the charge effect is due to inductive field leakage from the foil roll inside to the can and is received by means of the skin effect from the outside of the can. I thinks its because the induced voltage out of the o poles when any positive charge is applied to positive leg is greater than the effect of the caps self-charging. I am no expert but its what I see happening from my testing with the super cap. I have videos YouTube - Autocaptret and am testing further.

Keep up the good work!

[ibpointless2]

a self charging captret could be a negative capacitor, or a "Negacitor". Where a positive capacitor would drain the battery a Negacitor will charge the battery.

[Jbignes5]

If that was the case....

Initially I was very excited about this so I set out to take some measurements.

Procedure:
Measure the resistance between all of the contacts (leads)
How I did this was to:

1 Take a pair of leads & hook the DVM to them separately
2 Short them together
3 Release them
4 Let the DVM settle
5 Record the resistance reading

I did this for all of the possible combinations. I also swapped the leads of the DVM and repeated 1-5

My measurements resulted in the following in Mega Ohms:
- & + = 13 Meg
o & - = 6 Meg
o & - = 8 Meg
o & - & + = 10 Meg (this was a weird one ... did it several times)

With my dead Alkaline 9V @ 7V the driver circuit lit a red led at a dim output. I also lit the same led to the same dimness with a 6.8 Meg resistor directly to the battery.

I also measured 4.3 ma flowing from the battery to the Captret and 3.4 ma flowing from the Captret to the led.

The Casing & - form a small capacitor in addition to the - & +

THE ELECTROLYTE LEAKS ENOUGH CURRENT TO DRIVE AN LED

So make your own measurements and make a wise decision. Over Unity ? You decide. The enthusiasm was encouraging, but keep trying though.

I'm going back to the "This Is It" thread.

Really... Funny because if that was the case then the battery would be depleting for which mine is now charging from its starting voltage of 9.20 So far it is 9.23. You forget these are capacitors. They block current by the capacitance. Thats an active thing while the power is applied and not discharged. The naked circuit when not connected to the whole system does not exhibit the same measurements as it is with power applied. That is the reason for the changing voltages as the circuit charges up and attains it's running levels. Nice try to discredit this and plug that "other" thread...

Besides why don't you take the original circuit parallel a couple caps of the same ratings and try that one. Hell why not use a couple or 4 like my unit and start to charge that battery of yours and prove it to your self. By the way 4 220uf 20-100v electrolytic caps seems to be a magic in tune system from what I have been seeing. It seems the brightness will dim after a day but that means it is evening out its power to push the battery further. I think others and I believe that the bigger caps of much higher voltages works the best. My 200volt caps seem to be like the best effect I have seen yet. I'm still trying to find the right placement for each cap because I have 2 pairs but different capacities.

[gmeast]

measured

Initially I was very excited about this so I set out to take some measurements.

Procedure:
Measure the resistance between all of the contacts (leads)
How I did this was to:

1 Take a pair of leads & hook the DVM to them separately
2 Short them together
3 Release them
4 Let the DVM settle
5 Record the resistance reading

I did this for all of the possible combinations. I also swapped the leads of the DVM and repeated 1-5

My measurements resulted in the following in Mega Ohms:
- & + = 13 Meg
o & - = 6 Meg
o & - = 8 Meg
o & - & + = 10 Meg (this was a weird one ... did it several times)

With my dead Alkaline 9V @ 7V the driver circuit lit a red led at a dim output. I also lit the same led to the same dimness with a 6.8 Meg resistor directly to the battery.

I also measured 4.3 ma flowing from the battery to the Captret and 3.4 ma flowing from the Captret to the led.

The Casing & - form a small capacitor in addition to the - & +

THE ELECTROLYTE LEAKS ENOUGH CURRENT TO DRIVE AN LED

So make your own measurements and make a wise decision. Over Unity ? You decide. The enthusiasm was encouraging, but keep trying though.

I'm going back to the "This Is It" thread.

[Trastos]

Dollard

Anyone got schematic for Eric Dollard's Battery Vibrator?.

He has 12v and 24v set up with a vibrator.

I 'll try and find it, it's a total mess here

Hi all,

like this?

http://www.energeticforum.com/109991-post47.html

[broli]

My current setup which has two caps in "parallel" like seen below is going 24 hours straight without dimming the led. I didn't take note of the start voltage but I did when I just made the switch to the second circuit below it. I know the postive leads are not hooked but that's part of the experiment. Currently the voltage is at Vmax=7.99V and Vmin= 7.92V. These values are measured from my DSO with +-0.04V accuracy. I'll measure it again in ~12 hours.

[electricity]

Be careful, i remember reading somewhere you don't want to connect two batteries with totally different voltages up, the higher voltage one charges the lower voltage one and will over charge it and cause it to explode or leak.

200 LED's? thats a lot. what do you mean different set up? do you have a diagram?

Anyone got schematic for Eric Dollard's Battery Vibrator?.

He has 12v and 24v set up with a vibrator.

I 'll try and find it, it's a total mess here

[plengo]

Captret - Capacitor and Electret

Fausto.

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I tried taking an scope shot of the positive of the "output" LEDs and negative and it is very difficult to see anything. My scope is a 20mhz. I also tried another analog scope 200mhz but nothing usefull (at least for me).

I noticed that there are some spikes that are so shart and fast that the scope has difficulty showing. In this picture is kind of visible right at the center of the scope. Noticed that I am using 10x probe for better sampling and it is at my maximum voltage division of 50mv.

The time division is at 5us. This is channel 1 (red line). I would say that this little visible spike can be high as 2 division marks making it up to 100mv but one must stay and watch the scope running with a lot of attention.

I would assume those spikes are simply an artifact of the real energy lighting the LEDs which may not be really measurable by this kind of electronic equipment. Sounds like a pure "Radiant Energy" phenomena, but hey, what do I know about it?!!!

Fausto.



************************************************** ***********

[ibpointless2]

You guys have to play with 2 battery setup. I have 9v and 18v set up with 4 x 250v 2200 uf captret and LED with small magnets attached on the side to quench the spark. Try different set up, one allows you to light 200 LED with no drain on the 2 batteries. What is going on?

Be careful, i remember reading somewhere you don't want to connect two batteries with totally different voltages up, the higher voltage one charges the lower voltage one and will over charge it and cause it to explode or leak.

200 LED's? thats a lot. what do you mean different set up? do you have a diagram?

[electricity]

2nd Gen Captret - Perpertual Power Supply

You guys have to play with 2 battery setup. I have 9v and 18v set up with 4 x 250v 2200 uf captret and LED with small magnets attached on the side to quench the spark. Try different set up, one allows you to light 200 LED with no drain on the 2 batteries. What is going on?

[ibpointless2]

A question for everyone.

When you make your captrets were they ever brand new-out of the wrapper-never charged?

Or where they used before, like taken from some old electrical component or used before in a previous experiments?

[Jiffycoil]

The alignment look is from my "Lens Baby " macro lens. Its used for taking funky some in focus some not photos. The scope reads fine. I have tested with my signal generator and it checks out. Not a good range clearly but it works. It is probably the Captrec setup I'm using. It is a big "Can" type capacitor 4 1/2 inch by 3 inch. Im running it without the LED and its charging the battery.

[Jbignes5]

hmmm...

My scope is from the 80's and it doesn't say. I was hoping I could help out. Down in the setting range you listed I get this.


Scope shot Captrec by jiffycoil, on Flickr

Edit: I just looked the model up TENMA 72-320 Dual Trace / 20 Mhz Oscilloscope.

You might say your scope needs adjusting. It look like it is way out of alignment. You should be able to see more then me at 20 mhz. Although the cap bank I am using doesn't respond quite as fast as my scope it the dc line looks like a serrated knife edge except much longer. When I look closer like lower the voltage per centimeter settings to .01 I see that the line is actually a sub micro pulses in the range of 8-10 mhz maybe more. Also if I look even further with the 5x zoom I got I see mist like ghosting around the pulses.

I checked a normal battery and I don't get this signal.

[electricity]

Captret is an Oscillator

For anyone attempting my captret charger, you need to hook it up to a LED - spark cap first. This sets the cap in oscillation, then disconnect the LED and connect as in circuit.

What is a LED?.
It's a low voltage spark cap.

What is an electrolytic capacitor?
For those Linear thinkers, cut open a cap and find out.

What we have here is an oscillator, something else I found is that you can set up 2 batteries, 1 is 50% the potential of the other. This causes an energy pump.

This is Eric Dollard self charging vibrator (oscillator)

[Jiffycoil]

My scope is from the 80's and it doesn't say. I was hoping I could help out. Down in the setting range you listed I get this.


Scope shot Captrec by jiffycoil, on Flickr

Edit: I just looked the model up TENMA 72-320 Dual Trace / 20 Mhz Oscilloscope.