Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

[sucahyo]

People mention neon protect transistor. I think this can be true especially if you use the circuit at high power. The transistor can heat up and die if there is no load.

I found that my transistor die more often because of spark at the output. Especially on single diode version. I never experience it with FWBR combiner version though. I often replace the circuit while the circuit is ON.

However, if you already put a load, neon can act as a load too and may reduce the output. This especially true on load at secondary like car coil or CFL lighter.




This bellow is a reminder for Watson because he got negative result twice because he draw it wrong twice ....

When replicating the FWBR, Please make sure that you have follow the schematic correctly. Especially if you redraw it again. I realize that my drawing look very complicated. I wish I can draw it in 3D. Trace the current flow from start to finish.

My circuit maybe look very weird even for people with electronics education. But I try to draw it as correct and as similar to real as possible.

[sucahyo]

Thanks for your advices!
I will make some measurement today, here the day just starts, so i am gonna have enough time in next 24 hours to make new tests, but you see my both little batteries are now after more than 24 hours since yesterdays charging exactly 12.16 mA, it seems that this is about their best (little batteries - 5 Ah), so according your formula it should be still OU, but the problem is how to be sure that these batteries are not so good desulfated (after many cycles of radiant charging) that they show better results that it would be if we charged normal batteries (which have not been charged so many time with this radiant stuffs) ???

Cheers !

Thanks. I will look forward for your result .

Don't worry about "conditioned" battery. In fact, in here people are saying you can not get COP>1 without conditioned battery. You must have conditioned battery first before getting COP>1.

Many people spent weeks trying to condition the battery. It is not importnat if your battery is conditioned or not, as long as you get more useable voltage after, I think you are doing good .

[cikljamas]

In short:
- note the voltage of small and big battery
- use the small one to power the timer and relay
- note the voltage change after some hour
- if there is battery that have less voltage than before, use the other to charge it
- If no battery drop voltage and one battery have higher voltage than before you get COP>1.

Congratulation .

Thanks for your advices!
I will make some measurement today, here the day just starts, so
i am gonna have enough time in next 24 hours to make new tests,
but you see my both little batteries are now after more than 24 hours
since yesterdays charging exactly 12.16 mA, it seems that this is
about their best (little batteries - 5 Ah), so according your formula
it should be still OU, but the problem is how to be sure that these
batteries are not so good desulfated (after many cycles of radiant
charging) that they show better results that it would be if we
charged normal batteries (which have not been charged so many
time with this radiant stuffs) ???

Cheers !

[sucahyo]

I think i could help you about that : Use 220 uf electrolytic, i think this is most important, other values were completely wrong, just 220 uf works well...second : pull out that diode that goes from pin 7 to electrolytic plus, 10 nf capacitor you do not need too....third : resistor that goes from batt.
plus to pin 7 could be 10-100 kohms, but the most important is resistor that goes from pin 7 to electrolytic plus : there you can put resistor from 1 Mohm or resistor with higher values(2,3 M or so), and then your circuit is going to work well !

Thanks, I will try .

Why 11,45 V ?
Cause i do not think it is good to use battery as primary (source)
battery when voltage is below 12 V !

Ok then, from 12V . or see bellow.

I disconnected battery 5 hours ago, and battery is now at 12,34 V and before charging was 11, 85 i think, and primary was about 12,75 and now is 12,74 so according that formula it would be like this :
0,50*5 Ah(i think it is 5 Ah,not 7 Ah) = 2,5
0,01 * 41 Ah = 0,41
2,5/0,41 = 6,09

If it is so, than i must congratulate both of us !
But i must ask you : do you think that this method could assure us that this calculating result is real reflexion of reality ? And is 5 hours after charging enough for secondary battery to stop droping, because this old one still droping a little bit ?

The variation that can change calculation is if the battery capacity is not the same as the label. So 5Ah is actually 1 Ah or something.

Getting smaller charger at the cost of very little of the big is already wonderful and it is real.

However, if you doubt it, then use the smaller one to power the relay timer. If the smaller one still get charged and the big one only reduce very little than you have self charging .

And if you can use the smaller one to restore the bigger one charge to the initial value (without switching it around) and the smaller one have bigger value than before then you have self charging COP>1 indeed .


In short:
- note the voltage of small and big battery
- use the small one to power the timer and relay
- note the voltage change after some hour
- if there is battery that have less voltage than before, use the other to charge it
- If no battery drop voltage and one battery have higher voltage than before you get COP>1.

Congratulation .

[cikljamas]

Congratulation .

Yes. DPDT is mentioned in that link . DPDT is relay type.

Wow, i was lucky that this guy gave me different relay, that helped
me a lot, otherwise i could still hit the wall with this relays stuff...

I have that problem too, but now my 555 just not working, still trying to make it switch on each 30 seconds ....

I think i could help you about that : Use 220 uf electrolytic, i think this is
most important, other values were completely wrong, just 220 uf works
well...second : pull out that diode that goes from pin 7 to electrolytic plus,
10 nf capacitor you do not need too....third : resistor that goes from batt.
plus to pin 7 could be 10-100 kohms, but the most important is resistor
that goes from pin 7 to electrolytic plus : there you can put resistor from
1 Mohm or resistor with higher values(2,3 M or so), and then your circuit
is going to work well !

If you have empty batteries before and you have almost full battery that consume the big one only a fraction, then won't you have COP>1 already ?

I hope so !

What if you try it with the big battery start at 11.45V?

Why 11,45 V ?
Cause i do not think it is good to use battery as primary (source)
battery when voltage is below 12 V !

Example
= (1.00V * 7Ah) / (0.01V * 100Ah)
= 7

above example COP is 7.

I disconnected battery 5 hours ago, and battery is now at 12,34 V
and before charging was 11, 85 i think, and primary was about 12,75
and now is 12,74 so according that formula it would be like this :
0,50*5 Ah(i think it is 5 Ah,not 7 Ah) = 2,5
0,01 * 41 Ah = 0,41
2,5/0,41 = 6,09

If it is so, than i must congratulate both of us !
But i must ask you : do you think that this method could
assure us that this calculating result is real reflexion of
reality ? And is 5 hours after charging enough for secondary
battery to stop droping, because this old one still droping
a little bit ?

Cheers !

[sucahyo]

Hi Sucahyo and others !
I figured out finally how these relays works.

Congratulation .

This is 8 pins relay that i am talking about :
PCB Relay G5V-2 | OMRON Electronic Components Web

Yes. DPDT is mentioned in that link . DPDT is relay type.

I succeeded to accomplish that 555 circuit but the problem were the values of components, especially electrolytic capacitor...
Now i adjust 555 circuit so that when i charge lead acid batt. with
another lead acid batt. i have half minute status ON (charging), and
one minute status OFF ,

I have that problem too, but now my 555 just not working, still trying to make it switch on each 30 seconds ....

and i charged last 8 hours or so two smaller lead acid batt. with one big lead acid batt., and after i disconnected last one hour ago, it seems that batteries are almost full, and primary batt. lost just 1 hundred of 1 volt...But i am not sure how i could exactly know if this method of charging is more efficient than ordinary one...

If you have empty batteries before and you have almost full battery that consume the big one only a fraction, then won't you have COP>1 already ?

What if you try it with the big battery start at 11.45V?


For counting COP, how about this method:
- take starting voltage and end voltage of source and load.

COP = charging voltage / discharging voltage
COP = how much the small battery raise voltage * capacity
.........-------------------------------------------------
.........how much the big battery reduce voltage * capacity

Example
= (1.00V * 7Ah) / (0.01V * 100Ah)
= 7

above example COP is 7.


I guess the relay will end up consume more than the circuit lol.

[cikljamas]

Hi Sucahyo and others !
I figured out finally how these relays works.
First of all i did not know how much different relays there are, for example
Saturday, i bought two relays (i told you about that before), but today i
was again in the shop and ask for more these that i already bought few
days ago, but guy gave me something else, and this one has 8 pins...

Now, i think, and i am almost sure that when you are talking about DPDT
8 pins, you mean DPDT that is part of relay, DPDT on relay, you talk about
relay, not something apart from relay ?
Only, to accomplish that 2 batteries charger according your diagram i think
we should use two 8 pin relays, or one 16 pins if such is available...

This is 8 pins relay that i am talking about :
PCB Relay G5V-2 | OMRON Electronic Components Web

I succeeded to accomplish that 555 circuit but the problem were the
values of components, especially electrolytic capacitor...
Now i adjust 555 circuit so that when i charge lead acid batt. with
another lead acid batt. i have half minute status ON (charging), and
one minute status OFF , and i charged last 8 hours or so two smaller
lead acid batt. with one big lead acid batt., and after i disconnected last
one hour ago, it seems that batteries are almost full, and primary batt.
lost just 1 hundred of 1 volt...But i am not sure how i could exactly
know if this method of charging is more efficient than ordinary one...

So what is your opinion about this method ?

Cheers !

[sucahyo]

i have used your top left circuit in the picture and i can also rewind the same wire in the coils more to achieve 15 ohm per coil. can i do this?

Yes. How much is your input current ? Start with lowest power first.

How many leds can I light with this stingo? Did you post any photos of lighting leds with this?
Thanks.

I use 6 with my 3V version, but 7imix use 20, I think jiffycoil has video although with pancake coil. Always start from lowest output.

[Guruji]

That is awesome, what if you put LED on the load instead of battery?

How many leds can I light with this stingo? Did you post any photos of lighting leds with this?
Thanks.

[lancerdoom1]

Did you use this circuit?


5 ohm is very low, mine more than 50 ohm. Maybe you need to use bigger resistor value, 100K or 500K. Can you notice the coil sing if you raise the potentiometer value?

i have used your top left circuit in the picture and i can also rewind the same wire in the coils more to achieve 15 ohm per coil. can i do this?

[Guruji]

Jt capped

OK Sucahyo I will modify it to that circuit.
Thanks.

[sucahyo]

I looked at the schematic and couldn't find the value for the coil. How many turns on what kind of core, etc. Could you update the schematic with this? Thank you.

Sorry, I know only the length. I use 3 meter of wire, which I think too short, but it works.

I use toroid taken from broken power supply. Here is the photo.




I prefer to use FWBR version for charging a battery because I have better charge on battery.

[Watson]

That is great .

Do you compare it with your own Joule thief?

Yes. I already run it right now and found that it is not good idea to run it full power. I will run it again with lower power.

If we can get stable result, this can be used to compare circuit efficiency.[/QUOTE]

I looked at the schematic and couldn't find the value for the coil. How many turns on what kind of core, etc. Could you update the schematic with this? Thank you.

[sucahyo]

Ok, i am gonna test this circuit too, and see what is going on, but i wonder if these 555 circuits are able to fulfill our needs (turn on things, and keep them turned on for certain amount of time and then turn off things, and keep them turned off for same amount of time and then whole cycle again, and again...)

Last 555 work. But when I use big capacitor (>1000uF) it do weird thing, ON time normal, OFF time is very short !

Back to zero again......

Hi Sucahyo that circuit that you've posted has no charging battery or there's a fault in that?

Sorry, I forgot, you replace the resistor with charged battery.

[Guruji]

Jt with cap

Hi Sucahyo that circuit that you've posted has no charging battery or there's a fault in that?