Multifilar Generator Coil - Lenz delay Experiments

[BroMikey]

Hi all, was testing the setup today

With 25 watt incandescent bulb load across 51 strands in series,
there is slight speed up, though not much power.

Of course it didn't light up brightly because 29awg wire will only
max out at 100ma and that will take a lot more magnetic flux than
you are running. You will be blessed to get half of 100ma or 50ma.

Look at the math for transmission current handling.

For 1000 feet or more = 100ma X 120vac = .100a = 12watt max

You may get 50ma X 120vac = 6watts

My suggestion is to do what I did in my video using the same 29awg
wire, 50lb magnets, transformer steel, 20 magnet rotor, connect to
a 5 watt LED bulb.

Have fun, you are doing great.

[Quantum_well]

Cube.

Dropoff from a dipole follows an inverse cube.

[lotec]

Just to edit my last post. Guilty. my last post had loaded questions. The placement of the coil on the core, probably doesn't determine which type of induction is more powerful.
To be fair, I have to assume that the inverse square law applies equally to all media that can support magnetic flux, which is probably most, give or take. But I am still interested in the answer any how

cheers

[lotec]

Hi all, was testing the setup today with the 51 strand coil.
It appears the motor with 12 volt input at .45 amps with only one coil/core, turns the magnet rotor at 1725 rpm.
At 24 volts input at .75 amps, runs rotor at 3450 rpm.

With 25 watt incandescent bulb load across 51 strands in series, there is slight speed up, though not much power.
Half the strands are connected together using the european plastic connectors and turion said that may cause an issue with getting power, his bulbs did not light when using connectors.
Will be thinking about what the next step will be.
peace love light

Hi SkyWatcher,
Thanks for sharing your experiment and your experiences so far. You are spinning up your rotor with coil and core in place with 24 V at 0.75 amps, to 3450 revs. That is very well done, very economical, very nice. Is that with Turions magnetic drag / cogging counter measures in place ? The cordless power drill I use to spin things up uses something like 1.7 Amps at 18 volts to spin the chuck up to 1300 RPM's, and that is with nothing in the chuck.

I noticed you've gone axial flux this time around, I think that is a wise choice for this type of machine. One thing I'm not clear on, did you have the coil at the far end of the core, away from the magnets, perhaps with the idea of enhancing the delay, or at the close end with a focus on flux cutting ( which I am starting to think is a more powerful induction than magnetizing iron to induct the wires around it ).

In my quest to find the ultimate hybrid gen / motor coil for self running or semi self running motors, I will be following Turions and your work with big interest.

Thanks again

Regards
Cheers

[BroMikey]

Hi all, was testing the setup today with the 51 strand coil.
It appears the motor with 12 volt input at .45 amps with only one coil/core, turns the magnet rotor at 1725 rpm.
At 24 volts input at .75 amps, runs rotor at 3450 rpm.

With 25 watt incandescent bulb load across 51 strands in series, there is slight speed up,)

51 strands in series running which rpm? 1725? or 3450?

[alexelectric]

that connector

Half the strands are connected together using the european plastic connectors and turion said that may cause an issue with getting power, his bulbs did not light when using connectors.
Will be thinking about what the next step will be.
peace love light

if you have problems using that connector in the coil connections.
I would like to know how Turion solved it, so as not to have that problem

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, was testing the setup today with the 51 strand coil.
It appears the motor with 12 volt input at .45 amps with only one coil/core, turns the magnet rotor at 1725 rpm.
At 24 volts input at .75 amps, runs rotor at 3450 rpm.

With 25 watt incandescent bulb load across 51 strands in series, there is slight speed up, though not much power.
Half the strands are connected together using the european plastic connectors and turion said that may cause an issue with getting power, his bulbs did not light when using connectors.
Will be thinking about what the next step will be.
peace love light

[alexelectric]

ok, as soon as I have the coil I show you the photos

[alexelectric]

Thank you BroMikey, Turion

Your affirmations help me,
another question, when rolling can go normally,
or they should be rolled up on themselves and then rolled up on the support
since I saw a photo in another section I show them

[BroMikey]

Loosely wound multi-filar filaments may fail to show consistent results.
keeping a reasonable amount of tension during winding is important
and not as easy as it may seem. This is why winders or winding machines
are used.

[alexelectric]

Hi all, thanks bromikey for the tips.
May try something like the braided hose when the pillow block bearings are used again at some point, to compare to the drill chuck adapter.
Yes, can easily see changes now on the regular amp meter with the scooter motor.
Have been distracted from the project temporarily, will be finding the neutral zone tomorrow some time and checking coil output and rpm's.

Hi alexelectric, my coil bobbin is only a 1/16" plastic wall thickness, where the coil wraps around the core, 1/8" is probably too thick.
peace love light

thanks SkyWatcher very important what you share, I will appreciate what size I decide for the coil
but if I wanted to start with what has been successfully tested like the ones that turion has shown, since he also comments that if we follow his instructions we will succeed.
since you do several, it gives you confidence and expertise to make changes

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, thanks bromikey for the tips.
May try something like the braided hose when the pillow block bearings are used again at some point, to compare to the drill chuck adapter.
Yes, can easily see changes now on the regular amp meter with the scooter motor.
Have been distracted from the project temporarily, will be finding the neutral zone tomorrow some time and checking coil output and rpm's.

Hi alexelectric, my coil bobbin is only a 1/16" plastic wall thickness, where the coil wraps around the core, 1/8" is probably too thick.
peace love light

[alexelectric]

thanks for the explanation

thanks for the explanation in the video Turion
I show an image of how the coil will be made to make it clearer.
I prepare the 12 strips of wire at # 23 each 253 feet,
and then we proceed to roll them all 12 strips at the same time, all at once, is that so?
also attached the image of the size of the coil that you propose
and then I make the connections as in the image
This configuration is the one that you most recommend turion
12 strands of # 23 each 253 feet in length with four strands connected in series
your best tips will guide me to build this coil well and thanks for everything you share

[alexelectric]

regards
a query I'm about to build the coil proposed by turion, where it specifies
what I would like to know how to really make the coil of
turion
12 strands of # 23 each 253 feet in length with four strands connected in series, giving me three wires on my coil.
I have to have the 12 strands, and then all together, go winding them up and then make the connections, if they can help me by being more specific.
I would like if you can show me an image where I eat or photos, how to make the connections, or if there is already a post where it is shown with images how to make it shared.

it is important for me not to do it wrong and have wasted time

young greetings from talent and creativity, Turion, BroMikey, SkyWatcher

[BroMikey]

Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the links, will be getting something like that at some point.

One thing is noticeable though, the amp draw is much lower without
the drag of the 2 pillow block bearings,

And at 24 volts input, it is .7 amps directly off the drill chuck adapter

Glad to hear that, I am still in the hardware phase. For instance stainless
steel (SS) machine bolts can be used and this keeps the flux leakage
down for mounting. Buying these now by the bag full.

The other thing on my mind is fiberglass (Epoxy board) 1/4" and up to
1/2". The price to buy them is in the 1000's. You can go to the boat
builder suppies and buy roving, cloth and mat plus resin make your
own for $1000 less. That is how expensive a real fiberglass board is.

Even small prototypes can run up the bill SKY high.

Your .7amps @24 is excellent, it will be far more evident that this is the
right way to go when loading the coil. This will be what you want,
sensitive to all changes.

Concerning pillow blocks and the jack shaft as it is called, I spend lots
of time cutting drag and amp draw in half by running the the rotor and
tapping on the bolt area of the bearing to get a perfect alignment.

This is where you learn about a good coupler for a $1 that is flexible.

You can get away with going direct off the motor for a light rotor. you
are doing fine.