High Voltage from Thin Air?

[Inquorate]

Language barrier

Tagor sent me a private message but I want to make a public apology.

hi !!

no offense
sorry , my language is not english !
so it was not what I want to say ...

sorry again
bye!

Sorry tagor, my mistake. I hope I have not offended you.

Next time you post I will keep that in mind.

Thankyou for explaining

[DrStiffler]

While trying in vain to tune my sec 15-3 with no adjustable coil (watching the mailbox eagerly), I was touching the 50 led board at various parts of the soldering at the back to try and get light, when three things occured to me.

1) I'm slow to put things together

2) attaching mass to occasional led solder joints (or horizontal metal fins perpendicular to the led board's face) will probably increase the energy Cohered by the board, thus requiring less input from the sec.

3) using rotary multiple contact switches

1 Pole Sealed PCB Rotary - Jaycar Electronics

I can have the avramenko plug diodes coming off a metal ball (that is directly excited by the 22uH coil from the Exciter, so the ball will have 3 widely spaced contacts - one from Exciter, 2 diodes) and into the led board on either end of the led string.

The rotary plugs contacts will be wired to taps on joins on the led board. Turning the switches will increase the lit LED's 4 at a time from the positive avramenko plug, and 2 at a time from the negative avramenko plug.

The led board will be split into 2 uneven banks.

The other (common) switch contact will go to a positive and negative pin to attach to an optional charge battery. There will be another switch between these contacts to bypass the charging option.

Based on my observations, this will be a far more effective and useful load for the sec.

And make getting the right number of LED's for charging different batteries, as well as adjusting the load for different source voltages MUCH easier.

Love and light

@Inquorate

Before you go to to much work here, the paper (which should be done today) will give you the math to calculate both the + and - rail LED counts.

[DrStiffler]

As I have seen it, the sniffer LED intensity is a function of the distance between the sniffer and a sphere.

I think it confuses, because trying to use one hand holding the camera right, and with the other hand positioning the sniffer right and the led pointing at the camera while not tilting the loosely suspended CFL, not that easy.

And yes, we have more to study. IMO the sniffer can not measure with that granularity. If not guided otherwise, I think ve need a new setup with slide-able blocks and trial and error to optimize output.

The latest finding of the SECRPT can amplify the individual masses for better output.
If this is a blind track or the way to go, I can't say, but I will try it out somehow, and invite other to try as well. Remember Doc's old video with the aluminum blocks next to each other, and separated by cardboard.

Maybe this could end up being SGate version 2.
Other opinions ?

"attaching mass to occasional led solder joints (or horizontal metal fins perpendicular to the led board's face) will probably increase the energy Cohered by the board, thus requiring less input from the sec."

Please post a picture if you succeed with this.




I have just fixed a leak in my etch tank and etched some more coils, I can make a set of layouts for you. You are the first to ask for these coils actually.

For tuning I use a 5-35pF variable cap parallel with 22pF
L1 3.4uH ordinary coil (sewing machine form)
L2 is 21 spiral windings approx 8.2 uH
L3 is 34 spiral windings approx. 26.8 uH

OT
Jim, I have seen a transponder consisting of a small coil like the L1 on SEC18 and an ATTiny85 uContoller, thats it - just 2 components. No PCB, the coil is soldered directly to the IC pins.

The luxury version have an additional decoupling capacitor for better range. It is published on the net with complete documentation and program.

@Doc
I am very thankful for your gifts to us all. I fully understand your investment of time and money, so I do not want to publish my cube exciter without your permission.

If it is OK with you I will make a layout with the necessary stuff for making a SEC cube with the optimal coils according to my findings.

If not I will limit the set to L2 and L3.

@Jim
No need for you to waste time remaking a working layout, better use the time for new experiments and findings

By the way a small 9V battery fits inside the 50mm cube, and with the new layout there is a spare cube side which could be occupied by LEDs and NILS circuit....

I have just etched two more cube exiters

Eric

@Eric

My friend (if I may be so bold) what is yours is yours! All I ask is that I am given credit for whatever portion may be used from my work. My object from the beginning was to stimulate thought and advance in as many ways and configurations possible to get what is so badly needed in such a way that is serves many needs.

[Armagdn03]

Wow the last few pages have been a treat. Thanks for everyone's hard work.

[DrStiffler]

NILS Document Rel. 1.0

The first release of the NILS Document is now on Scribd

Near Infinity Spatial Coherence Light System

[CosmicFarmer]

First Flick

3 Cheers!

I got all the tools I needed together, flipped on the switch, and huzzah! now I have to make more led chains!

YouTube - Excited Matter in my BEDROOM!

YouTube - first flick of the switch

[DrStiffler]

3 Cheers!

I got all the tools I needed together, flipped on the switch, and huzzah! now I have to make more led chains!

YouTube - Excited Matter in my BEDROOM!

@All

I understand why many of you are using mixed LED types, got to use what you have and many places the White LED's cost a finger or two. Never the less I can only suggest that you try to use all of one type, don't mix the colors if at all possible.

Another thing, the tuning problems many are having, that is obvious, getting your hand close to the L2, L3 or you actual load will have a varying effect.

In some of my video's you will see I normally do not mount the L3 like I show in the document and I turn the board on its side facing me. In this way you can maximize the distance from the critical parts and your hand. L2 is not near as sensitive as L3. I do not suggest long wires from the board to L3, but you can extend some and it will clear up much of this tuning trouble.

Very good work by the whole group.

[Bodkins]

Hi all just a quick post i got the 48 superbright leds running from 18volt but the transitor gets real hot, i was using a psu 18volts 1.5amp its all i had, whats the best batterys to use? also i can charge up a cap to 120voltish.
peace all
x

[DrStiffler]

Hi all just a quick post i got the 48 superbright leds running from 18volt but the transitor gets real hot, i was using a psu 18volts 1.5amp its all i had, whats the best batterys to use? also i can charge up a cap to 120voltish.
peace all
x

@Bodkins

What Exciter are you using? A 15-3 or 18 variety?

Something sounds strange here. The 48 LED's are White I presume? If so the Vf should be 3.2 -> 3.7 volts, so 48 * 3.2 = 153.6 volts just to forward bias them.
What type of capacitor, could it have high leakage or be large in physical size?

You should be able to get a cap to charge to what is needed for your LED's.

Can you get a picture up? That transistor should not get that hot. Lets assume 18v @ 50mA = 900mW and without a heat sink a watt will heat that little black body pretty good.

[Bodkins]

@Bodkins

What Exciter are you using? A 15-3 or 18 variety?

Something sounds strange here. The 48 LED's are White I presume? If so the Vf should be 3.2 -> 3.7 volts, so 48 * 3.2 = 153.6 volts just to forward bias them.
What type of capacitor, could it have high leakage or be large in physical size?

You should be able to get a cap to charge to what is needed for your LED's.

Can you get a picture up? That transistor should not get that hot. Lets assume 18v @ 50mA = 900mW and without a heat sink a watt will heat that little black body pretty good.

Hi Drstiffler
its a SEC 18-1 and the cap is 1200volt 2mf.(yes super bright white leds)
I was hoping to charge a battery with the output using a scr and a neon, Im not at the location of the board will video as soon as i can.
thanks you Drstiffle this is a great setup

[Tecstatic]

@Eric

My friend (if I may be so bold) what is yours is yours! All I ask is that I am given credit for whatever portion may be used from my work. My object from the beginning was to stimulate thought and advance in as many ways and configurations possible to get what is so badly needed in such a way that is serves many needs.

Of cause you may Doc, you act as a true friend helping me and the other guys here

I have just made a layout of your circuit, so in the hypothetic situation all made their own PCBs and your SEC18 sales stopped, I would not like to publish the layout without your acceptance.

And of cause I will give credit to your work.

By the way the first PCBs are not easy to make, but I find it rewarding to have a short path from idea to prototype. So I personally have found the learning making your own PCBs worth the effort.

I will post some revised layouts in a few days.

-------

I am working on my own "cube" version of the NILS circuit.

I chose the opposite way, a small 9V alkaline battery, to get a fast indication.

I got these preliminary numbers:

2:05 hours drop from 9.3V to 8,6V

Not good, so I tried the AV plug variation described by Inquorate, (9 diodes). same battery.

2:05 hours, dropped from 8.7V to 8.6V

So if I just assume the drop is 50mv/hour, and the usable range is 9V to 7.8V the that small battery is worth 24 hours of light in 9 diodes.

The consumption is low, but maybe it can be reduced further. not easy to make my idea work though...

Eric

[slayer007]

I was trying to see how low I could get the current intake and still light 40 LED'S.
I was able to get it to light with under 1 mA with 18v.

YouTube - SEC Lighting 40 LEDs under 1 mA

[CosmicFarmer]

I noticed that the 2 diodes in the extra L3 pack are germaniums... I have a big pile of geraniums I pulled out of TV's and other junk, but the markings are too small... What are the chances that the found diodes, if they work right, would be the right ones to connect to loads thru AV plug? Hopefully the list of diodes that rectify spatial energy is pretty large...

Thanks again for putting up with me Dr.Stiffler. You seem to be very quick in replies and very no-nonsense, which is what I appreciate.

Is it written somewhere about how this circuit trips matter into the excited state? or is that the part we have to figure out somehow! hahaha. I've read Spatial Energy X several times but its a lot to swallow, but it isnt that far-out.

Thanks again. I'll be using the RIGHT leds here in a little while.

[TRON]

Please Clarify!!!

By SPATIAL ENERGY, do you mean the broadcast signals coming off the local TV Station antennas?

Or could it be the magnetic flux in the wiring of your house / walls...

Or maybe its the 12 KV 100 amp branch circuit at the back of your house running along the property line...

HAS ANYONE tried any of this "SPATIAL ENERGY" science out in a remote wilderness location... IN A RAVINE where man made signals cant be picked up or tapped into

IF you do get "free" energy or somehow tap into the ROTATING HELICAL DIPOLES of the AETHER or COSMIC RAYS... when doing these tests ina remote location

THENE THERES SOMETHING TO BRAG ABOUT !

Peace
JUST FOOD FOR THOUGHT!

I was able to get a BLUE LED to light up with an antenna, 2 coils, a bridge rectifier and a ground plate driven in wet earth !
actually lit continuously, at 3.2 VDC.... but then again was it something artificial or man made signals that i was picking up? was it the wiring in my walls or that conduit 2 feet away with 120 VAC inside?

HUMMMM...

[Lidmotor]

Uses for the SEC

@Freezer
It would be very easy to add an automatic on/off side circuit to this like I did with the Solar Joule Thief. What you would get is a solar garden light on steroids. There are lots of applications for Doc's closed loop circuit. It really boils down to super efficiency. The newer leds that put out more light are perfect for this.

@Slayer
It funny that you would post that video because I have been working along similar lines with the new circuit. I wanted to see just how low an amp draw could it still operate on and still get some light. Yesterday I looked at micro amp analogue meters in a store for the first time. I never dreamed that I would be working with a device that ran on that little power and still made light.

@Bodkins
Welcome aboard!! As soon as you get comfortable with the 18-1 try running it off your earth battery. That should work great. Keep the power way way down (a couple of 9 volt batteries go a long ways) until you see what it can do. I started using my good old rheostat to help control the amps----or should I say milliamps

Lidmotor