Jetijs circuit will work just fine. I almost used a flyback too, but the core was cracked. I used the fet to slam the 2n3055 base hi. Nothing gets hot. Then I use a tripler from a old TV to go to DC and bump the voltage up.
The coil on the circuit is run near its resonate frequency. I did not bother to use a scope on this project. I tweaked the frequency with the tiny trim pot until the coil arced over its self. Then back up a bit, then a bit more. You want dc positive on the center electrode.
I made a smaller gas processor back in 2005 with a neon sign transformer and found that it only worked partly. It, operating at 60hz was a drawback.
@Jetijs did you try converting gasses other than air with your ionizer?
Dave
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Originally posted by Aaron View PostDave, your ionization tube is powered by an ignition coil. What kind
of frequency is it running at? Do you have a schematic Dave?
Does anyone else have similar circuits?
Is there a voltage too high?
What about frequency range?
Alex's diagram showed about 7-8kv.
I was thinking the output of a neon sign transformer
that is used to power neon tubes for cars or ignition coil
is best - other than that, maybe a sharper image ionizing
hair dryer
Aaron, I have made a simple air ionizer that works very well. I use a flyback transformer from an old crt monitor, it has a ferrite core and I wind some 5 tuns of wire on that core. Then you just build a simple 555 timer with adjustable duty cycle and pulse a gate of a MOSFET. I found that I can get the highest voltages out of this transformer at around 10Khz, I just keep reducing the 555 circuit capacity till I get the longest sparks at around 1-1.5A current draw. Works fine, I it arcs over at around 10mm and I can stretch the arc out to about 20mm. I will post a circuit later. But here is a video about this:
YouTube - Making ionized air and ion wind
Also you will want to put a 5-10 MOhm resistor in series with the HV output to suppress arcing.
Also I think the voltage is never too high, at higher voltages you can set the electrodes further apart and thus using a bigger diameter tube for the electrodes, this will ionize bigger volumes of air. With the 555 timer you can adjust the level of max HV by adjusting the duty cycle, also the megaohm resistor in series with the HV helps a lot. Arcing is not desired, because as soon as an arc forms, the ionization and ion wind stops.
This is really simple and works like a charm
Last edited by Jetijs; 02-25-2010, 10:20 AM.
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Ionization circuit
Dave, your ionization tube is powered by an ignition coil. What kind
of frequency is it running at? Do you have a schematic Dave?
Does anyone else have similar circuits?
Is there a voltage too high?
What about frequency range?
Alex's diagram showed about 7-8kv.
I was thinking the output of a neon sign transformer
that is used to power neon tubes for cars or ignition coil
is best - other than that, maybe a sharper image ionizing
hair dryer
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review
http://www.energeticforum.com/82378-post83.html Very reactive
http://www.energeticforum.com/82432-post88.html Ionization
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dielectric coating
Super Corona Dope is better than Corona Dope.
I have looked at using Plastidip for similar purposes but
maybe more messy.
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Yes it will aid the corona, If I tweak the center electrode back a bit more.Originally posted by sucahyo View PostYou don't intend to suppress the sparking ?
It is only arcing over once every few seconds. (exposure time 6 seconds)
Dave
Does anyone know a substitute for Corona dope? There is almost as much corona outside as inside.Last edited by dave_cahoon; 02-24-2010, 04:47 AM. Reason: Need Corona Dope or a common substitute for the HVDC
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Great stuff
Tutanka I hope that thing works as good as the pcb looks .
Cahoon great simple ionizer , hope you inspire much people .
I am also designing a PLL Tutanka , but since I am using low voltage , my design will use a voltage controlled resistor with direct feedback to my main oscillator .
I believe Puharich used a crude form of Mosfet as a resonant sensing resistor .
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Tutanka thank you for the pictures and sorry no disrespect intended about the coil.
Your doing a fine job sir.
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And from an photo you decide that CERAMIC BI-COIL don't work??Originally posted by adam_mizer View PostTutanka,
Like the board professional done but the coil looks very basic and not a professional core, might not matter if it works. Looks like uni-strut to me?
Also could you state any of the detail like did the gate switch work properly on the 4047 or was that removed?
Also the gate out pin 11 was that okay or did you change to other output?
And any other helpfull details?
Thank you!
About the circut .. you can see with your eyes
Last edited by tutanka; 02-23-2010, 10:44 PM.
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