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Ionization & Water Fuel

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  • dave_cahoon
    replied
    Jetijs circuit will work just fine. I almost used a flyback too, but the core was cracked. I used the fet to slam the 2n3055 base hi. Nothing gets hot. Then I use a tripler from a old TV to go to DC and bump the voltage up.

    The coil on the circuit is run near its resonate frequency. I did not bother to use a scope on this project. I tweaked the frequency with the tiny trim pot until the coil arced over its self. Then back up a bit, then a bit more. You want dc positive on the center electrode.

    I made a smaller gas processor back in 2005 with a neon sign transformer and found that it only worked partly. It, operating at 60hz was a drawback.

    @Jetijs did you try converting gasses other than air with your ionizer?

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    I attached the circuit
    Attached Files

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  • Jetijs
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Dave, your ionization tube is powered by an ignition coil. What kind
    of frequency is it running at? Do you have a schematic Dave?

    Does anyone else have similar circuits?

    Is there a voltage too high?

    What about frequency range?

    Alex's diagram showed about 7-8kv.

    I was thinking the output of a neon sign transformer
    that is used to power neon tubes for cars or ignition coil
    is best - other than that, maybe a sharper image ionizing
    hair dryer

    Aaron, I have made a simple air ionizer that works very well. I use a flyback transformer from an old crt monitor, it has a ferrite core and I wind some 5 tuns of wire on that core. Then you just build a simple 555 timer with adjustable duty cycle and pulse a gate of a MOSFET. I found that I can get the highest voltages out of this transformer at around 10Khz, I just keep reducing the 555 circuit capacity till I get the longest sparks at around 1-1.5A current draw. Works fine, I it arcs over at around 10mm and I can stretch the arc out to about 20mm. I will post a circuit later. But here is a video about this:
    YouTube - Making ionized air and ion wind

    Also you will want to put a 5-10 MOhm resistor in series with the HV output to suppress arcing.
    Also I think the voltage is never too high, at higher voltages you can set the electrodes further apart and thus using a bigger diameter tube for the electrodes, this will ionize bigger volumes of air. With the 555 timer you can adjust the level of max HV by adjusting the duty cycle, also the megaohm resistor in series with the HV helps a lot. Arcing is not desired, because as soon as an arc forms, the ionization and ion wind stops.
    This is really simple and works like a charm
    Last edited by Jetijs; 02-25-2010, 10:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • pengrove
    replied
    Originally posted by Slovenia View Post
    Tutanka,

    Looks pretty great to me.

    Best Regards,
    Slovenia
    I do not see any kind of feedback inputs for this to be a PLL circuit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    Ionization circuit

    Dave, your ionization tube is powered by an ignition coil. What kind
    of frequency is it running at? Do you have a schematic Dave?

    Does anyone else have similar circuits?

    Is there a voltage too high?

    What about frequency range?

    Alex's diagram showed about 7-8kv.

    I was thinking the output of a neon sign transformer
    that is used to power neon tubes for cars or ignition coil
    is best - other than that, maybe a sharper image ionizing
    hair dryer

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    review

    http://www.energeticforum.com/82378-post83.html Very reactive

    http://www.energeticforum.com/82432-post88.html Ionization

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    dielectric coating

    Super Corona Dope is better than Corona Dope.

    I have looked at using Plastidip for similar purposes but
    maybe more messy.

    Leave a comment:


  • dave_cahoon
    replied
    Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
    You don't intend to suppress the sparking ?
    Yes it will aid the corona, If I tweak the center electrode back a bit more.
    It is only arcing over once every few seconds. (exposure time 6 seconds)

    Dave
    Does anyone know a substitute for Corona dope? There is almost as much corona outside as inside.
    Last edited by dave_cahoon; 02-24-2010, 04:47 AM. Reason: Need Corona Dope or a common substitute for the HVDC

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by dave_cahoon View Post
    My Plasmatron:

    Time to test it.

    Mybe connect it between the PCV Valve and Intake Manifold..

    Dave
    You don't intend to suppress the sparking ?

    Leave a comment:


  • dankie
    replied
    Great stuff

    Tutanka I hope that thing works as good as the pcb looks .

    Cahoon great simple ionizer , hope you inspire much people .

    I am also designing a PLL Tutanka , but since I am using low voltage , my design will use a voltage controlled resistor with direct feedback to my main oscillator .

    I believe Puharich used a crude form of Mosfet as a resonant sensing resistor .

    Leave a comment:


  • Slovenia
    replied
    Nice Job

    Originally posted by tutanka View Post
    And from an photo you decide that CERAMIC BI-COIL don't work?? About the circut .. you can see with your eyes

    Tutanka,

    Looks pretty great to me.

    Best Regards,
    Slovenia

    Leave a comment:


  • adam_mizer
    replied
    Tutanka thank you for the pictures and sorry no disrespect intended about the coil.
    Your doing a fine job sir.

    Leave a comment:


  • tutanka
    replied
    Originally posted by dave_cahoon View Post
    My Plasmatron:

    Time to test it.

    Mybe connect it between the PCV Valve and Intake Manifold..

    Dave
    Sorry but how do you want use inside? What is the reaction that you want reach? Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • dave_cahoon
    replied
    My Ionizer

    My Plasmatron:

    Time to test it.

    Mybe connect it between the PCV Valve and Intake Manifold..

    Dave
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • tutanka
    replied
    Originally posted by adam_mizer View Post
    Tutanka,
    Like the board professional done but the coil looks very basic and not a professional core, might not matter if it works. Looks like uni-strut to me?
    Also could you state any of the detail like did the gate switch work properly on the 4047 or was that removed?
    Also the gate out pin 11 was that okay or did you change to other output?
    And any other helpfull details?

    Thank you!
    And from an photo you decide that CERAMIC BI-COIL don't work?? About the circut .. you can see with your eyes

    Last edited by tutanka; 02-23-2010, 10:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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