Water Sparkplug

[xpskid]

Hi Timm,

I'm using single diodes only for the first test on the Bug. They get a little warm. The 'quads' I have won't wire directly in because the spade connectors are opposite.

Do your diodes go right to the plugs? I have solid wire plug cables so I can connect via the distributor. Is your wire jumpers in the modified plugs squeezed good and tight when you reassemble? Try using a store bought non-resistor plug for your water test. Try 'upping' C1 slightly.

Greg

Hi Greg,

I'm using solid copper plug wires, a cheap HP set from the local auto shop.
I used 18 ga stranded copper wire to my diode sets. I pushed the plug wire and 18 ga wire through the boot, stripped the end of the plug wire and twisted it together with the 18 ga wire, then folded it to the side and crimped on the metal ends (Distributor end). I left extra wire to reach the mounting location of the diode strings (underside of the hood). I don't have video, but I can take some still images if that would help anyone.

All my plugs so far are modified Champions. Extended and sanded springs, and used brass plugs in place of the resistors. I'll swing by the auto shop and see what they have "out of the box".

"Upping" C1 ?, do you mean capacitance ? I have two 47uF in series, halving the capacitance. I can take one out and bring it back to 47.

I'll get better DI water and try a couple different atomizers too.

One safety learning to share, remember this compressed spark with arc farther than the normal spark. I had the engine up and running and pulled a plug wire to connect and external plug for reference. That spark needs to go somewhere and immediately started jumped between diode strings and also to the mounting screws of the block. I provided more separation between diodes and potted the mounted screws.

Thanks for your help,

Timm

[Jetijs]

Hi.
I wanted to make fuel ecconomy tests on my gas generator to see how much fuel I can save by attaching the vexus circuit to it. The problem is that I can not get the engine to run when the variac is turned ON. My gas generator currently has the original magneto ignition on default timings, so no primary winding in the ignition coil. It outputs a negative HV pulse. I attached the vexus circuit to it using a string of 18 1N5408 diodes. At first I powered the generator on and let it run for a while. Then I turned on the variac at zero volts. Everything worked the same, but as soon as I increase the voltage of the variac to about 40-50v, the generator starts to slow down and choke till it stops. The diode arrangement is correct, because if I wire it the other way around, I can not even start the generator - there is no spark at all. Might it be that the LV side is discharging through the secondary winding of the ignition coil when it is not firing and thus disturb the original spark form appearing?

This is how the setup looks like:

[jstadwater]

My latest VexUs video..........

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

[jstadwater]

Hey Jetijs,

Don't know if I can be of much help or not. I have a single cylinder lawn mower with the same magneto setup you described, I may start testing on it later this week. Can you verify the spark w/the plug removed and spinning over the engine, with full voltage from the variac? If so, it may possibly be that when you are turning up the variac with the engine already running, you are slowly creating too much down-force on the piston as the spark grows and grows. Maybe try retarding the timing some and see if you can get to more variac voltage before it starts to bog down. That would at least allow you to rule out that as a possible cause. I think I remember your generator having the timing adjustment capability you created, right? Or is that a different one? Just running some thoughts by you......................Mike

[gmeast]

high speed test

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

Hi Mike,

Your test make me feel so proud. I am now going to step up my voltage too. The VexUs circuit sure makes it easy to modify. Thanks for sharing.

Greg

[gmeast]

Send images

Hi Greg,

I'm using solid copper plug wires, a cheap HP set from the local auto shop.
I used 18 ga stranded copper wire to my diode sets. I pushed the plug wire and 18 ga wire through the boot, stripped the end of the plug wire and twisted it together with the 18 ga wire, then folded it to the side and crimped on the metal ends (Distributor end). I left extra wire to reach the mounting location of the diode strings (underside of the hood). I don't have video, but I can take some still images if that would help anyone.

All my plugs so far are modified Champions. Extended and sanded springs, and used brass plugs in place of the resistors. I'll swing by the auto shop and see what they have "out of the box".

"Upping" C1 ?, do you mean capacitance ? I have two 47uF in series, halving the capacitance. I can take one out and bring it back to 47.

I'll get better DI water and try a couple different atomizers too.

One safety learning to share, remember this compressed spark with arc farther than the normal spark. I had the engine up and running and pulled a plug wire to connect and external plug for reference. That spark needs to go somewhere and immediately started jumped between diode strings and also to the mounting screws of the block. I provided more separation between diodes and potted the mounted screws.

Thanks for your help,

Timm

Hi Timm,

Send some images and we'll try and see what's the matter. It's gotta' be something basic.

Greg

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

It does really feel good to have this circuit perform the way it does at such a high rpm. It would not be such if not for all the great guys here on this forum! Thanks to everyone sharing and trying new things, we will go even further with this circuit. I think my V-8 running 5,800 rpm pretty much means there's no way you could max it out with a 4 cylinder, not unless you cranked out more than 11,000 rpm!

I DO have all my "kick wires" hooked straight to the end of the spark plugs instead of the distributor cap, stock plug wires are not an issue that way. The plugs I use are Champion, but "Copper Marine" instead of automotive. The # is 827 M L76V. Since boaters now use a wide variety of engines, all you need to know is the thread length and thread pattern to fit your engine. I really think we can ignore the factory rated "heat range" for OUR application, just make sure the threaded end is not long enough to hit the piston, wouldn't want that! The "effect" is MUCH better with these plugs vs. the regular Champion plugs. Greg, could you tell me where to order one of those variable power resistors you use, so I can get away from this 100 watt light bulb? I don't know how much more this bulb is going to be able to handle. It may pop tomorrow when I change up to 4.7uF on the discharge capacitence, we will see.... I will be testing this installed on a chevy 350 engine as soon as my other parts arrive. How cool that the two of us are rapidly advancing this, you in sunny California and me in sunny Florida!! My GTA Trans-Am is next in line after the boss's Suburban. My Trans-Am is currently rev-limited at about 5,000 rpm to keep the valves from floating, WELL within the obvious range of this circuit! We'll see what can be obtained then from a flat out performance standpoint. She's already fast, but then.......fast enough never really was fast enough for me.

Later...........................................Mi ke

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

I'm glad my progress has convinced you to up your voltage as well. Proud is a good word to use too, seeing this thing take off is almost like watching your boy score his first touchdown! Can't wait to see the "BUG" results with higher voltage, How's it coming? UPS says my isolation transformer and all my diodes and caps will arrive today. I should at least have this hooked up to an inverter on the bench today, maybe even in the Suburban if bench work goes well. This is, by far, the most versatile and easy system available to build. Mods are so easy, practically effortless. So again, thank you and everyone else who has contributed to this technology!!


Chat later..........................Mike

[Gibs]

Hi.
I wanted to make fuel ecconomy tests on my gas generator to see how much fuel I can save by attaching the vexus circuit to it. The problem is that I can not get the engine to run when the variac is turned ON. My gas generator currently has the original magneto ignition on default timings, so no primary winding in the ignition coil. It outputs a negative HV pulse. I attached the vexus circuit to it using a string of 18 1N5408 diodes. At first I powered the generator on and let it run for a while. Then I turned on the variac at zero volts. Everything worked the same, but as soon as I increase the voltage of the variac to about 40-50v, the generator starts to slow down and choke till it stops. The diode arrangement is correct, because if I wire it the other way around, I can not even start the generator - there is no spark at all. Might it be that the LV side is discharging through the secondary winding of the ignition coil when it is not firing and thus disturb the original spark form appearing?

Hi Jetijs,

Basically, I think you are right about LV side discharging through the coil winding.

When your magnet approaches the coil, there is a positive pulse building up and when it leaves the coil then you get the negative back EMF spike that creates the spark.
The coil voltage might not be free to "swing" back and forth.

Have you tried to connect another HV diode in series with the coil output?

Keep up the good work.

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

Congratulations Mike!
Your last vid is really inspiring, I imagine with more uF...

Thanks for sharing.

[jstadwater]

Hey Guys,

Got all my ordered parts in today. Wired up four, 450V 4.7uF caps in series, 2 each side, then paralleled them together (4.7uF good for 900V right?). Spinning at 4,200 rpm, lowest speed of the 1/4HP motor, I got a really intense bright effect at the plugs and bigger plasma than the 1uF cap in my last vid. But, it lit up my 100 watt bulb solid and I still got heat at the caps. No heat at the diodes though. It was REAL intense with a 22uF cap instead, but it heated up enough to feel it just spinning it by hand. Spun at 4,200 rpm for 30 seconds w/22uF, cap was 155 deg. F, diodes were 97 deg. F, bulb (as resistor) was really bright. Could this be due to a real need for a variable resistor? I think I will go back to the 4.7uF bank and see exactly how hot it gets. The caps I got are rated for 5,000 hours at 105 deg. Celcius (221 Fahrenheit). Ordered the best ones I could find. Back in a few........................Mike

BTW, the spark plug ends still remain UNCHANGED in temperature even after I fired it with the 22uF cap. Shot them with the laser before, during, and after.....NO change.

[jstadwater]

@Greg

Could you tell me where to order one of those variable power resistors like you have? I keep thinking that I'm going to flip the power on one time too many and this light bulb is going to kick the bucket.

Thanks..................................Mike

[jstadwater]

4.7uF caps went over temp too, three minutes at 4,200 rpm temp measured 235 deg. F. I am measuring the temp on top of the cap, between the leads, that is the hottest spot on the cap. Also now using ALL NTE517 diodes, two per plug. Temp was 99 deg. F, plus or minus 2 degrees on all diodes. I am going to see if I can find any of those oil filled caps to purchase, may solve the heat issue..................................Mike

[Jetijs]

Hi Gibs
I did not try a diode string in series with the magneto coil. Instead I attached my custom ignition system to the generator with eliminated waste spark. I made two tests on fuel economy. I took a plastic container and drew two lines on it, one at the top and one at the bottom. I filled the container with fuel and watched till the fuel level reaches the upper line. Then I started the stopwatch and waited till the fuel reaches the bottom line. At first I used an ordinary spark, no booster side. The load was two 300W light bulbs. It took 29m30s till the fuel reached the bottom line. After that I connected the vexus circuit to piggyback the original spark. I used a variac as the power source and a 40w light bulb as the resistor. Again I started the generator with the same timings and loads but with the vexus circuit turned ON. The light bulb went on, but it was rather dimm. The generator has an RPM regulator so that if you use more powerful fuel, the RPM's do not increase, it just turns the fuel line down to maintain the RPM's. This time it took 31m36s till the fuel level reached the bottom line. That is about 7% economy
I did not use a diode string in series with the ignition coil to prevent the cap discharge through the secondary winding of the ignition coil. I will do this tomorrow. But that should improve the effect much more. Will try also a voltage doubler circuit.

Thank you,
Jetijs

[jstadwater]

Final test for today............

4,300 rpm for about 30 minutes.

1.06uF oil filled MW cap, two NTE517 diodes per plug. Voltage doubler is a pair of 450V 120uF caps and a pair of 1N5408 diodes, output 326 volts.

It is currently 88 deg. here. After 30 minutes at 4,300 rpm, plug ends reached 96 deg. F, diodes all within 1 deg. of each other, reached 95 deg. F (hottest one), 1.06uF cap reached 91.5 deg. F.(starting temp was 89.5)

No heating of any wires in the circuit anywhere, including the doubler circuit. I found allot of oil filled caps for sale online, I think I will order a 10uF and a 22uF just to see if they are better for heat control at those rates. Later..................Mike

[gmeast]

4,300 rpm for about 30 minutes.

1.06uF oil filled MW cap, two NTE517 diodes per plug. Voltage doubler is a pair of 450V 120uF caps and a pair of 1N5408 diodes, output 326 volts.

It is currently 88 deg. here. After 30 minutes at 4,300 rpm, plug ends reached 96 deg. F, diodes all within 1 deg. of each other, reached 95 deg. F (hottest one), 1.06uF cap reached 91.5 deg. F.(starting temp was 89.5)

No heating of any wires in the circuit anywhere, including the doubler circuit. I found allot of oil filled caps for sale online, I think I will order a 10uF and a 22uF just to see if they are better for heat control at those rates. Later..................Mike

Hi Mike,

This is great information from which to start characterizing the Vexus. Thanks for being so diligent by instrumenting your work and recording and posting your results.

Peace,

Greg