Water Sparkplug

[gmeast]

WE fuel patent

Hi Greg... excellent work!
I post the below because you mentioned you were thinking of trying a water/gas emulsion. This was an impressive patent I discovered/studied.
He mixed 2 emulsifiers with gas and water, simply swirled it around in a beaker and it thoroughly blended the gas and water in a clear emulsion.
That's impressive.
..................................................

Thanks goldenequity. This step is near-term. Will study what you posted and thanks for the links.

Peace,

Greg

[gmeast]

spinoff

Hi all,

Wanted to share an observed spinoff of having the Plasma CDI. I have mentioned this earlier but now I'm giving it some significant consideration. If nothing else, there is a real emissions and economy advantage I've already noticed. On start up, I don't need to use the choke at all. I flip the Plasma "On" and it starts right up ... instantly ... not even one turn of the engine!

No excess fuel is used nor is there the associated polluting, rich, gagging fuel mixture.

The I switch back to CDI-only once warmed up. I realize that this is minor compared to our ultimate goal but it is an immediate benefit ... a multi-mode/phase spark ... that's a new one! Also, additional flash Caps can be switched in or out as needed for temporary punch. The CDI alone puts the standard ignition configuration to shame.

Thanks again to everyone. Peace,

Greg

[poii]

WI

Thanks folks but goldenequity's Feuerman Patent would seem to be the more elegant "solution", and opens other possibilities for blended fuels. Water, diesel,
biodiesel, veggie oil, naptha, waste crankcase oil, bunker oil, methenol.... Somewhere I read of a guy in Las Vegas running buses on water/naptha/surfactant emulsion (can't find it now).

Greg has demonstrated that plasma expands the ignition envelope, maybe by a considerable amount so Feuerman's 22.5% water may not be our limit. We may have the GEET in the cylinder.

One issue with emulsion could be corrosion. I would want that resolved before using it in a stock FI engine. Injectors are stainless but I don't know about the rest of the system.

Greg are you going to try a leaner mixture?

[gmeast]

mixture

Thanks folks but goldenequity's Feuerman Patent would seem to be the more elegant "solution", and opens other possibilities for blended fuels. Water, diesel,
biodiesel, veggie oil, naptha, waste crankcase oil, bunker oil, methenol.... Somewhere I read of a guy in Las Vegas running buses on water/naptha/surfactant emulsion (can't find it now).

Greg has demonstrated that plasma expands the ignition envelope, maybe by a considerable amount so Feuerman's 22.5% water may not be our limit. We may have the GEET in the cylinder.

One issue with emulsion could be corrosion. I would want that resolved before using it in a stock FI engine. Injectors are stainless but I don't know about the rest of the system.

Greg are you going to try a leaner mixture?

Hi poii,

First I'm going to hang a small day tank near the engine compartment and gravity feed some 35% distilled water and isopropanol (anhydrous) to the carburetor (this is just very strong rubbing alcohol). I'll fiddle there for a while then post.

I know that the plasma ignites low temp, poorly vaporized fuel-air gasoline. Gas is so high energy density I think leaning this stuff accomplishes little because I don't have a way to know what the mixture will be. I could just swap jets but that would be relative. Alcohols (in various forms from various sources) are renewable resources.

...don't know anything about GEET, but I like it.

Peace,

Greg

[gotoluc]

Hi poii,

First I'm going to hang a small day tank near the engine compartment and gravity feed some 35% distilled water and isopropanol (anhydrous) to the carburetor (this is just very strong rubbing alcohol). I'll fiddle there for a while then post.

I know that the plasma ignites low temp, poorly vaporized fuel-air gasoline. Gas is so high energy density I think leaning this stuff accomplishes little because I don't have a way to know what the mixture will be. I could just swap jets but that would be relative. Alcohols (in various forms from various sources) are renewable resources.

...don't know anything about GEET, but I like it.

Peace,

Greg

Hi Greg, if you start testing with alcohol I would recommend you pickup one of those digital BBQ roasting temperature gauge. They have a remote temperature probe with a braided stainless wire lead shield which is about 24" long. Wedge the probe between the cooling fins of the engine head so you can monitor the temperature as you are testing as things could get too hot. I pick one up for my half GEET engine test to monitor exhaust temperature and the nice thing about these is they have an alarm you can set to go off at a temperature you select.

The heads on your Bug are aluminum and you need to be careful.

Just a suggestion.

Luc

[gmeast]

alcohol

Hi Greg, if you start testing with alcohol I would recommend you pickup one of those digital BBQ roasting temperature gauge. They have a remote temperature probe with a braided stainless wire lead shield which is about 24" long. Wedge the probe between the cooling fins of the engine head so you can monitor the temperature as you are testing as things could get too hot. I pick one up for my half GEET engine test to monitor exhaust temperature and the nice thing about these is they have an alarm you can set to go off at a temperature you select.

The heads on your Bug are aluminum and you need to be careful.

Just a suggestion.

Luc

Yep, appreciate it, thanks, don't want to melt it.

Greg

[ashtweth]

Hi Greg, Luc and all.

Here is some books i found on alcohol and cars, its mixed in with 260 meg of Alt energy books on wind/solar etc.

Of cause its for research purposes only
Solar Wind and Alternative Energy eBooks AIO
Download:MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service
(put in the code on the right hand side to down load)

[gotoluc]

Hi Greg, Luc and all.

Here is some books i found on alcohol and cars, its mixed in with 260 meg of Alt energy books on wind/solar etc.

Of cause its for research purposes only
Solar Wind and Alternative Energy eBooks AIO
Download:MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service
(put in the code on the right hand side to down load)

Thanks Ash,

I'm downloading it now

Luc

[jstadwater]

Ignition module question..............

Hey Guys,

I just hooked up a HEI Distributor from a Chevy 350 to fire plasma! I have it locked in a vice on the bench, wired out to an external coil, worked great charging the cap to 120V. HOWEVER, when I added a voltage doubler circuit to the cap, I fried the ignition module. (I wanted that extra bang, just got it in the wrong place) My fault, I think, I failed to isolate the grounding circuits from each other. Question is this, what would be a good way to "in-line" protect the module from harm's way? Would a few 1 amp fuses in all directions from the module be a good start? It was perfectly happy with the cap firing at 120V. Closer to 300V.......not so happy. Don't want to switch to frying modules instead of inverters. The inverters only cost $40, my boss just replaced the module, it was $55. I have spark again now. This underway experiment is an attemp to fuse together the "piggy-back" Nexus circuit technology with the "gmeast" "super isolated CDI plasma" circuit technology. Since I like both circuits, why not try to use a degree of both circuits and hook up a V-8 to see if it will work well enough. My boss just got a digital video camera that will allow me to FINALLY upload videos to the computer and then the web. I will be recording my first EVER video to upload maybe later today, subject.....V-8 HEI CDI Plasma!!! (if I can keep from frying ignition modules, that is). Wish me luck, any insight on protecting the ignition module is appreciated and needed. Thanks everyone for all the help freely given here. Later.......................................Mike

[gmeast]

Fantastic!

Hey Guys,

I just hooked up a HEI Distributor from a Chevy 350 to fire plasma! I have it locked in a vice on the bench, wired out to an external coil, worked great charging the cap to 120V. HOWEVER, when I added a voltage doubler circuit to the cap, I fried the ignition module. (I wanted that extra bang, just got it in the wrong place) My fault, I think, I failed to isolate the grounding circuits from each other. Question is this, what would be a good way to "in-line" protect the module from harm's way? Would a few 1 amp fuses in all directions from the module be a good start? It was perfectly happy with the cap firing at 120V. Closer to 300V.......not so happy. Don't want to switch to frying modules instead of inverters. The inverters only cost $40, my boss just replaced the module, it was $55. I have spark again now. This underway experiment is an attemp to fuse together the "piggy-back" Nexus circuit technology with the "gmeast" "super isolated CDI plasma" circuit technology. Since I like both circuits, why not try to use a degree of both circuits and hook up a V-8 to see if it will work well enough. My boss just got a digital video camera that will allow me to FINALLY upload videos to the computer and then the web. I will be recording my first EVER video to upload maybe later today, subject.....V-8 HEI CDI Plasma!!! (if I can keep from frying ignition modules, that is). Wish me luck, any insight on protecting the ignition module is appreciated and needed. Thanks everyone for all the help freely given here. Later.......................................Mike

Well, this is how progress is made ... takes someone with guts to try things. Best of luck!

Greg

[Kinetix]

Hi all.
Greg, nice work indeed. I'm glad it works. How does your Bug accelerates now on the street? Keep us updated with the mpg (L/100km) too, please.
jstadwater, the goal is not to obtain any type of blow. We need it only between the spark plug's electrodes.
If you want us to help with the protection issue, you should give us the schematic of that ignition to think at, and the wiring in your setup, too.
All the best.

[jstadwater]

Thanks Kinetix

I will draw up a diagram of what I'm playing around with. Be back in a few minutes. Later...................................Mike

[jstadwater]

I have decided my circuit will not work in the present config. I need Greg's isolation circuit to accomplish the task. I am ordering the parts next, will continue and post a schematic once I build Greg's circuit. These stock ignition modules are just too sensitive without complete isolation, already killed another one. Smallest fuses I could find at the parts store were 2 amp, the fuses are still alive but the ignition module died. I wanted to build Greg's super isolated circuit anyway, no better time than the present. Later.....................................Mike

@Greg
Is this the latest parts list to build your circuit?

4 ea. non resistor spark plugs
1 ea. 47uf x 450 V cap
1 ea. 470 uf x 450 V cap
1 ea. 12 ohm x 50 watt resistor
1 ea. 3k ohm x 1/4 watt resistor
2 ea. power Mosfet w/driver
1 ea. FWB rectifier
1 ea. 1:1 x 150 VA isolation transformer
1 ea. 400 watt 115VAC inverter
12 ea. HV Replacement Microwave diodes
2 ea. 1000V x 3A ultra fast recovery diodes
1 ea. standard automotive coil
1 ea. modification to make the distributor points act like a SPDT switch
1 ea. fuse holder
1 ea. 1A fuse

Peace,Greg

If so, could you give me the specifics as far as part #'s, types, and what sites you ordered them from. I thought you already listed the specifics, but I can't find it anywhere. I just want to make sure I build the exact circuit you have designed, as it is perfect as far as I can see. Also, can I use 1N5408 diodes in place of a single HV diode in your schematic? Which ones, series or parallel, and what are your diodes' voltage blocking rates so I know how many to use? I imagine the ultra-fast recovery ones for the mosfets must stay, right? Sorry to be a bother, I just want to get it right the first time. Thanks sincerely for all your hard work............................Mike

[gmeast]

parts

I have decided my circuit will not work in the present config. I need Greg's isolation circuit to accomplish the task. I am ordering the parts next, will continue and post a schematic once I build Greg's circuit. These stock ignition modules are just too sensitive without complete isolation, already killed another one. Smallest fuses I could find at the parts store were 2 amp, the fuses are still alive but the ignition module died. I wanted to build Greg's super isolated circuit anyway, no better time than the present. Later.....................................Mike

@Greg
Is this the latest parts list to build your circuit?

4 ea. non resistor spark plugs
1 ea. 47uf x 450 V cap
1 ea. 470 uf x 450 V cap
1 ea. 12 ohm x 50 watt resistor
1 ea. 3k ohm x 1/4 watt resistor
2 ea. power Mosfet w/driver
1 ea. FWB rectifier
1 ea. 1:1 x 150 VA isolation transformer
1 ea. 400 watt 115VAC inverter
12 ea. HV Replacement Microwave diodes
2 ea. 1000V x 3A ultra fast recovery diodes
1 ea. standard automotive coil
1 ea. modification to make the distributor points act like a SPDT switch
1 ea. fuse holder
1 ea. 1A fuse

Peace,Greg

If so, could you give me the specifics as far as part #'s, types, and what sites you ordered them from. I thought you already listed the specifics, but I can't find it anywhere. I just want to make sure I build the exact circuit you have designed, as it is perfect as far as I can see. Also, can I use 1N5408 diodes in place of a single HV diode in your schematic? Which ones, series or parallel, and what are your diodes' voltage blocking rates so I know how many to use? I imagine the ultra-fast recovery ones for the mosfets must stay, right? Sorry to be a bother, I just want to get it right the first time. Thanks sincerely for all your hard work............................Mike

Hi jstadwater,

The HV diodes are 15KV blocking and .5A ... which is why the parallel. You can use whatever they decided for in the Nexus. I used parallel HV to get the amp rating and avoid the multiple voltage drops of so many diodes in the alternative. A string of diodes is much cheaper than what I've used ... I have not tried strings but should work nonetheless. The Ultra Fast Recovery diodes are soooooooo important in that they protect the discharge and charge Mosfets from Back-EMF on switching. I know it seems silly to use one on the Cap charging circuit but a rapid discharge from a capacitor can generate what appears to be a damaging 'spike' ... a diode here is cheap and worth the wiring as a safeguard. I may have already stated the Mosfet Packages are the Crydom D2D12 200VDC 0-32VDC control input: source = Mouser.

I use UF-5408-E3 for the fast recovery protection diodes - one each across the Cap and Coil and their ratings are 1000V 3A. You should be able to use any 5408 axial for the long strings but the faster the response on the diode the less heat will build. I think the UF-5408-E3's cost $0.44 each.

I'll check back often. Peace,

Greg

[ashtweth]

Yup you beat me too it, gotta post in the OU forum , Bill has discloses some research and MPG results, very encouraging to say the least, i say we need to get Bill a smacks booster some how Here is the message i got, we are getting closer to the install on the car with the booster, hopefully this week. will update Bill's and Gregs stuff tonight.

Guys Bill also needs some answers as do we all for this circuit, please take a look

--------------------------

further down the rabbit hole, here!

I spent all weekend tinkering with the Plasma Arc Generator on the
bench and have made some interesting discoveries. Perhaps 'weird'
would be a better word, but only in respect to conventional electronic
theory.

Here's the deal; I was still not convinced that there was any
appreciable current draw through the unit that would account for the
obvious current in the plasma arc at the plug. Being a bit eccentric,
I decided that when I put it on the bench, I would change the low
voltage, theoretically high current leads going to the plug from 14
gauge to, of all things, telephone hookup wire, just to watch them
melt, or not.

They don't even get warm, even at wide open maximum welding arc!

As long as the inverted dipole exists across the plug, the unit draws
no current from the source and, actually appears to send current back
into the source.

The unit does show current draw through the diode rectifier, in some
cases, over 100 amps, but it is not being generated from the mains or
the battery. Everything in the unit remains cool to the touch and the
2.5 amp fuse in the output holds just fine.

I have reduced the size of the inductor from the large MOT to a small
squirrel cage motor winding. It does not heat, even at max arc.

I need some help figuring out what is going on from a conventional
perspective first. If there is no way to explain what is happening
with conventional electronic theory, then we should take a look at
what may be happening in the dipole arrangements. I think we may be
talking ZPE here, although I don't think a Zero is appropriate and
I'll be glad to tell you why.

There is a physical mechanism for building up millions of volts of
static charge between a storm cloud and the earth, but there is NO
mechanism that can account for the tremendous current exchange that
takes place during a lightening strike – that still remains a mystery.
Perhaps we've harnessed the 'secret' of lightening.

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