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Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

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  • Rl2003
    replied
    Got it Visser,

    I should have my Mini BFW up and running by the week end, I just need the neo's for the back of the ceramics and I am good to go.
    Mark P.

    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    My answer was an attempt to answer the question (post 438) that John asked about the you tube video ,post 427.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    John K,
    brass is fine.
    John










    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    @John B or Aaron,

    It appears that John B is using a steel shaft on the Big Bedini Machine. How much difference will it make if I use a brass threaded rod shaft? Especially when it comes to making the axial generator. Will this be a good or bad move do you think?


    John K.

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  • John_K
    replied
    To Brass or not to Brass?

    @John B or Aaron,

    It appears that John B is using a steel shaft on the Big Bedini Machine. How much difference will it make if I use a brass threaded rod shaft? Especially when it comes to making the axial generator. Will this be a good or bad move do you think?


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    I know you guys are looking for cheap, but come on lets do it with the bi-polar switch and a hall with the timing wheel. The reed makes it cheap but that is not what your looking for and it will burn out just when you need it to work right. I guess I will half to build one myself and post it. (ED says you need to guide the magnets in the right streams 4 total.)
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    Great job
    Would you care to make a video about this? Your videos are always interesting!
    Jetijs

    Originally posted by woopy View Post
    Hi Everyidea

    thanks for the your idea

    So i modify my previous project to this one

    and it works really good for a totally basic crude setup

    this motor begin to spin at 2.3 volts and 25 ma, and accelerate very gently as i add more volts .
    i stop at at 10 volts because the magnet are simply hot glued on the HDD base and the motor spin really happily.

    Will make some measurement tomorrow

    see the reed swith on the north coil

    i use ring neo magnet, alternating N an S ,do you think it could work better with superpole magnet ( but can somebody explain me what is exactly a super pole)

    will post further info if it is interesting

    John , Do not hesitate to say me if i am totally out off topic with this motor config.

    hope this helps

    good luck at all

    Laurent

    Leave a comment:


  • everyidea
    replied
    @ Laurent,

    Great job!

    I wasn't my idea, I just noticed it from JB's drawing for Cody, his hint and the video, but glad you got it working.

    Not sure on the super poles. I just want to make it the recommended way first then experiment. It's been said to get it self running the flux pattern needs to be very sharp. I don't know if your neo's are sharp enough. Only one way to find out...

    rw
    Last edited by everyidea; 12-10-2010, 12:56 AM.

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  • woopy
    replied
    pmh motor spining

    Hi Everyidea

    thanks for the your idea

    So i modify my previous project to this one

    and it works really good for a totally basic crude setup

    this motor begin to spin at 2.3 volts and 25 ma, and accelerate very gently as i add more volts .
    i stop at at 10 volts because the magnet are simply hot glued on the HDD base and the motor spin really happily.

    Will make some measurement tomorrow

    see the reed swith on the north coil

    i use ring neo magnet, alternating N an S ,do you think it could work better with superpole magnet ( but can somebody explain me what is exactly a super pole)

    will post further info if it is interesting

    John , Do not hesitate to say me if i am totally out off topic with this motor config.

    hope this helps

    good luck at all

    Laurent
    Last edited by woopy; 05-16-2011, 09:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    I did not use any Iron wire.
    John B





    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Originally posted by Rl2003 View Post
    Visser, How do you get 60 degrees???
    There are 16 magnets on the big wheel, thats 22.5 degrees and as well on the
    timing wheel. There are ten poles on the small wheel with 5 timing magnets at
    72 degrees. If not I just built it wrong.

    I am just finishing the timing wheel and I made it to be able to time both in one wheel..
    My answer was an attempt to answer the question (post 438) that John asked about the you tube video ,post 427.

    Leave a comment:


  • byjoveoldchap
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Hint!!!!!!!

    You guys need to go back to the video you posted and look where the reed is on that wheel.
    Then freeze frame and tell me what the timing is. Draw the wheel use a protractor if need be.
    JohnB
    Hi John,
    my apologies if this is off topic, but I know this will interest you.
    I have been listening to your Test Audio Page for Synthmaker and I just LOVE listening to 'That Old Black Magic' by The Clovers. What a great, swinging version they performed!

    Knowing of your interest in sound and music and your expertise in amplifiers and 3D sound, please check this out. Jump to approx 7mins to see the specific demo I refer to.

    Thank you for guiding and helping everyone you can.


    ~~~

    Leave a comment:


  • john_g
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    Visser, How do you get 60 degrees???
    There are 16 magnets on the big wheel, thats 22.5 degrees and as well on the
    timing wheel. There are ten poles on the small wheel with 5 timing magnets at
    72 degrees. If not I just built it wrong.

    I am just finishing the timing wheel and I made it to be able to time both in one wheel..

    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    The rotor turns ccw.There are 60 deg between magnets.The read switch is 23 deg after tdc from thr right side of the u coil.
    Last edited by Rl2003; 12-10-2013, 03:29 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • everyidea
    replied
    Here is a breakdown of the video and magnet/switching as I understand it. I tried to show the flux as white ovals. The flux of 1 and 4 heading into the U and the flux of 2 and 5 heading out of the U and make the closest legs of the U opposite poles. At the same time the reed switch fires pulling 1, 2, 4, 5 to the U poles. The reed switch comes out of the 2 and 5 flux and turns off, killing the U pulling force and cogging. Then the next magnet comes into position 2 or 5 and we start all over again.

    rw
    Attached Files
    Last edited by everyidea; 12-09-2010, 08:18 PM.

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  • nvisser
    replied
    Hint!!!!!!!
    You guys need to go back to the video you posted and look where the reed is on that wheel.
    Then freeze frame and tell me what the timing is. Draw the wheel use a protractor if need be.
    JohnB




    The rotor turns ccw.There are 60 deg between magnets.The read switch is 23 deg after tdc from thr right side of the u coil.
    Last edited by nvisser; 12-09-2010, 10:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    An idea for those of you trying to build the Ferris Wheel on the cheap, like ME!
    Get the largest bicycle wheel you can find. Cut "spokes" out of 2x2 the length you want, to make the wheel the size you want. The spokes must all be equal length. Angle cut the outside end of the spokes so only about 1/2 inch of the wood comes in contact with the material we will attach on the outside to form our new wheel. Attach the spokes around the wheel with screws. To get a solid fit on mine, I am sanding the end closest to the wheel with the end of my belt sander to take some out of the middle and let the outside come into more solid contact with the wheel. Cut strips of 1/4 inch plexiglass (from Lowes or Home Depot) wide enough to match the length of the magnets you will be using or longer if you are going to cut out holes to expose the back of the magnet. Wrap the strips of plexiglass around the outside of your new spokes and screw them in place. There will be seams, so use your imagination on how to deal with them. Mark the plexiglass for where the magnets will be placed and for how it fits on your new spokes, then remove it to cut the holes for the magnets. Magnets glue well to that plexiglass material with superglue, and this is not a high speed motor, but take precautions. For larger wheels you might consider threaded rod instead of 2x2. A 42" wheel with 3 foot pieces of threaded rod going out in all directions makes a pretty dang big wheel! I am trying both ideas with two wheels I have, so will let you know which works the best. The threaded rod, when tightened onto the wheel with locking nuts, forms a pretty stiff structure to bolt the plexiglass to, and there is not a lot of side to side torque if you are careful with your wheel. Might want to use brass threaded rod if steel will muck things up. That is a question for John, and brass is lots more expensive.
    Last edited by Turion; 04-20-2012, 03:13 PM.

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