Bedini Solid State Oscillators

[peter4you]

I've found now that the NiMh batteries don't keep the charge well, but the Li-Io batteries do.--I'm using 2 fans in parallel now, which works well (will try using more fans and experiment with mixed series- and paprallel connections).

I'm testing right now how it works, if I connect a stepup converter between the running battery and the Bedini circuit (either before the circuit or after it.--I will report how it works and if it does anything to improve the setup).

I'm also using a stepup converter when drawing power from the charged battery, when I'm running gadgeds like a mp3 player or a 1W mini stereo amp (with two 3,7V Li-Io batteries in series I get appr. 7,5V of running power that way.--The power supply is more stable and the batteries last longer than without a stepup converter.--I do get appr. 6,5V via the stepup converter just using one 3,7V Li-Io battery, but the battery doen't last long and a mp3 player connented to the battery makes a funny noise.-The stepup converter circuit stays cold and functioning).

Maybe the hints will help.--Keep on fiddling

[theremart]

Neos on the SS

I built the Solid State oscillator several months ago. I learned 4 things that might be of interest to some of you. I got better results from the oscillator when I switched to Silver Coated Wire, I think I used 20G or 22G wire. I found that when using a Magnetite core the output was stronger and I used less input energy. The final comment is that in order for it to start oscillating I had to remove one of the 2 magnets and gently drop it on one end of the core to start the oscillating. I used Neodymium magnets on each end with the orientation the same as if the magnets were attracted to each other and the core in the middle. I fingered this out when my core started to self oscillate when I was using it on the motor with the silver coated wire and the wheel was not turning. I have not used this since I started using the same idea on a triode and was getting better results with that. I am still using the Magnetite for my triode core.


Karl

I found the frequency slightly went faster when I had neos on one end of the SS...

I also have Magnetite core, have not tried the welding rods, because I glued the magnetite in when I was using a wheel.

I am also using 20 guage wire, much more wire than what is called for... a full spool.

[theremart]

Arg.

Hi Ewhaz,

The transistor part number in the book is wrong and should be BD243C, another mistake is pin 4 and 5 of the opto, the connections are inverted.
I have tried running the oscillator from a 555 instead of the trigger wire, it works too, but for every freq you are tuning to you have to readjust the duty cycle to get the best signal for that freq, finally I found that the trigger winding does this automatically and even better , so I went back to the winding.

regards,
Mario

This is soooo True, even on the corrected diagram pins 4 an 5 are inverted. (going back and re-reading the old posts )

[theremart]

Some more thought to my last test.

It seems I did not really test the SS properly the last time in my chart. I did not charge the battery up to the same 14V resting voltage it was charged with the neo SSG.

I did note that after I put these batteries back on the solar charger after being on the SS they went up to a much higher voltage then when they had before. They normally stay at about 12.8 - 12.96 Today they shot up to about 14V and a resting of 13.2.

I am now testing my 100 + amp hour batteries with the solid state charger...

[theremart]

RE: fluffy voltage..

Great question to ask, but should be asked in the fan thread......
you might nudge Imhotep a bit

[peter4you]

fluffy voltage

Hi there,

At the momemt I use appr. 6-15V from a laboratory mains adapter for testing the setup with one modified PC fan.

--At appr.10V I can see the neon bulb firing (depending on the kind of fan I use.

I've tried charging various kinds of batteries (LiIo 3.7V, NiMh 5V) and they do charge to their specified voltage, although when I discharge them via a light bulb (bicycle bulb, 6V), they lose their charge very quickly (within appr. 10 Min. or less).

--However, this is not the case if I have charged the batteries in the traditional way using a charger.--Any ideas why this is happening with my setup?

Is the voltage reading that I get from the charged batteries incorrect (e.g., does it show up electrostatic charge instead of real voltage charge?)?

Any ideas, suggestions, help?


Looking forward to your reply
Peter (from Germany)

[theremart]

RE: Wave forms

Hi Mart,

Thanks for the feedback.



I am planning to get a copy myself. Weird thing is, the seller refuse to ship it worldwide with tracking. How did you get yours ? Can you post that waveform from the book ?

From my understanding of time wave is the total of time it takes to charge a capacitor and discharge to a load in short amount of time. Correct ?

Are there any distinct visual characteristic for this time wave to watch out on oscilloscope ?



It is just a 555 running in astable mode with frequency adjustment I got it off google a while ago.

At location D for the previous post, that part consist of two sine waves 180 degree apart or double helix. Is that normal ?

Cheers,
iret

I would have to get permission before I post anything from the book.

I am asking permission now for a wav that Bedini approved of that was from someone's build, I am working on getting permission now.

mart

[theremart]

First load test of the SS.

Well I had this battery on the SS drawing 400 millamp at 11.5 to 12 V for 3 days. I was not very impressed with the results.

The battery voltage under charge was 13.20V.

In comparison the other LONG line is the amp hours I got out with the battery being charges with a Neo at 20V at about .5 AMP for about 8 hours.

I cut the test off at 12.5 V...

I was charging 2 batteries at a time with the SS, and not with the neos... But I must say I was very disappointed in the amp hours the battery held. I guess I could try charging the battery again this time the battery by itself with a constant 12.5 V.


Mart

[theremart]

RE: Solid state with cap...

Since the Cap is dumping the energy to the Battery, there is no need for an inverter with this Solid State Bedini as given in the book FEG.. setup ( I guess if you follow the idea of negative radient energy)...

Is that statement right?

[iret]

Hi Mart,

Thanks for the feedback.

I have the "Free Energy Generation" book, and in it it shows a sorta stair step, what is called a "time wave

I am planning to get a copy myself. Weird thing is, the seller refuse to ship it worldwide with tracking. How did you get yours ? Can you post that waveform from the book ?

From my understanding of time wave is the total of time it takes to charge a capacitor and discharge to a load in short amount of time. Correct ?

Are there any distinct visual characteristic for this time wave to watch out on oscilloscope ?

I guess what would help to know is what schematic did you use to construct yours?

It is just a 555 running in astable mode with frequency adjustment I got it off google a while ago.

At location D for the previous post, that part consist of two sine waves 180 degree apart or double helix. Is that normal ?

Cheers,
iret

[theremart]

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum and just want to share some of my own research info on this topic. I have attached two pictures of my oscilloscope readings from my driver and coils output.

Is this the type of waveform for Bedini Oscillators ?

1st picture:

A = signal from transistor driver
B = transistor turning off
C = voltage spike from electromagnet
D = Some kinda ringing ?
E = Just my camera reflection

2nd picture:

Same as above with both signals added together.

Cheers,
teri

Hi Iret,

Welcome to the forum!

I also am trying to understand what is target with the waveforms. I have the "Free Energy Generation" book, and in it it shows a sorta stair step, what is called a "time wave". And I think I am getting close to that in my latest wave forms. The waveforms seem to change with the changing of the base resistance, once I change that it I had significant changes in the wave forms.

Good shots there of your scope! I guess what would help to know is what schematic did you use to construct yours?

I think since we don't have an exact idea of what we are shooting for we can take notes of what setups yield a high amount of return out of the charging battery. From looking at the data on Rick's site, it seems that you have to charge/discharge several times before you will see these results.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing your scope shots.

Mart

[iret]

Correct type of waveform ?

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum and just want to share some of my own research info on this topic. I have attached two pictures of my oscilloscope readings from my driver and coils output.

Is this the type of waveform for Bedini Oscillators ?

1st picture:

A = signal from transistor driver
B = transistor turning off
C = voltage spike from electromagnet
D = Some kinda ringing ?
E = Just my camera reflection

2nd picture:

Same as above with both signals added together.

Cheers,
teri

[theremart]

Yes 3.3 uf

The scope is from the first transistor that fills the cap. The second scope shot is the release of the cap, ( thus it is around 20 V) and it is a complex wave, I am guessing it is picking up the spikes of the first transistor and I am seeing the combined waveform.



>By perfect I mean it is exactly what I would expect to see

Ok, ya high spikes are cool and to think without any magnets... This has got me rethinking all the magnet configs I have done, I mean I did not have to have an expensive neo to get spikes of this magnitude.

So were the spikes approximatly equal when you had the 10k resistor in? That is interesting....

They were higher. at least a constant 50V yet there was not enough amps in the spike to make the target battery get past its impedence ( my best guess of understanding what is going on). This is why I increased the amps to try to fully charge the batteries from 100 Ma to 400 Ma.

Another thing to consider is at the start of this I had the 555 improperly wired. I was getting 200V spikes because the cap was not discharging I found if I unhooked the charging and hooked it back up POW the spike would release and woke me up a bit

It seems the 555 does not seem to operate unless I am in a certain voltage range. A range of about 12Vdc at least I don't hear the clicking noises I have come to expect when it is doing it's job. I am told that you need proper resistors for the 555 for each voltage range you do.

I first hooked up to the solar 5W panel I am getting 13V in he cap... after seeing this did not give me much in the cap I then decided to hook the solar panel to a larger batter that is at 12V then use this as my primary for the SS, this is working much much better cap now has 20.V in it and the 555 is firing as it should. Target voltage is rising quickly now.

[Sephiroth]

3.3 farads!!!! That's huge! Though that would be why your cap isn't showing fluctuating voltage

Though did you mean 3.3uf?

If so, then it is curious that your cap is showing constantly 20v... and the scope shot is showing increasing and decreasing voltage... puzzled.

Ok, they look perfect, as to what standard ?

By perfect I mean it is exactly what I would expect to see

So were the spikes approximatly equal when you had the 10k resistor in? That is interesting....

BTW, my scope cost me all of $50.00 I am a super cheap skate I did a search on ebay found the dealer was local went to look at the scope, and it was broke!! but he said, I have another back here went and tested it well the rest is sitting on my desk...

[theremart]

RE: SS results.

Hi Mart,

The first two photos of your scope look perfect. As the voltage in the cap rises the flyback voltage is increasing until the cap discharges.

But I can't figure out the next two photos looks like there is a second wave form?

and you say the cap keeps a steady 20v? What capacity is it?

Have you done any load tests yet?

I still can't figure out the tuning on my oscillators... output seems to be proportional to input ie. I can't find a "sweet spot" so my cop is staying between 0.79 and 0.81 ... an oscilloscope would be handy Damn you rich people flaunting your fancy oscilloscopes!!!! lol

Ok, they look perfect, as to what standard ? I don't know what I am shooting for, I have zero idea of what a good shot looks like. The first shot is from the collector of the BD243C transistor (case ), the second transistor the 2N3584. ( the Book FEG schematic which is close to Aarons schematic )

There was a big change in waveform when I changed the base resistor to 100 ohms instead of 10K, The 10K had tons of sharp straight spikes, but the 100 ohm was the stair step on the BD243C (Case).

BTW, my scope cost me all of $50.00 I am a super cheap skate I did a search on ebay found the dealer was local went to look at the scope, and it was broke!! but he said, I have another back here went and tested it well the rest is sitting on my desk...

The load test was I drove the SS with the charged SS battery ( charged to 12.60 charging voltage ) I put it on for 12 hours and it dropped down to 9.V
sigh, so it did not do well in the first load tests. I am thinking of hooking my battery swapper up to swap between a load, and the charger so I have a timed load / charge.

Oh yes the cap is a 500V 3.3F cap. I think it is overkill, but I got the exact components the book recommends I wanted this one to be right. The book shows a tighter stair step than mine, I am thinking something is not quite right on the 555 chip.

Since this is charging, I believe this means that the opto coupler is working. sigh it is a new world, and I don't know what the values should be when I go around the board.

Today I hooked this up to solar 5 W panel to two 13 amp hour batteries in parallel with the ss. I am very curious to see how the two batteries responds.