Bedini Solid State Oscillators

[gmeat]

Hi,

I am new here and need to find a bifilar coil for the Bedini SS oscillator. Is there somewhere I can buy it or is someone out there interested in selling me some? I am also interested in buying the transistor and the diodes in his circuit. Thanks in advance.

Hi Guass,


Welcome to the forum,Here's a link that carries all of the parts your looking for.Or you can try your local electronics stores or the internet to find what you need.Hope this helps .

Truth In Heart CREDIT CARD ORDERING CENTER

-Gary

Bifilar coils...

Hi,

I am new here and need to find a bifilar coil for the Bedini SS oscillator. Is there somewhere I can buy it or is someone out there interested in selling me some? I am also interested in buying the transistor and the diodes in his circuit. Thanks in advance.

[Sephiroth]

How big do you recommend?

Thanks!

I believe John's 60 day monopole was using around 250,000uf...

I have tried 1,000uf up to 160,000uf and the larger capacity did make a difference.

But I am still wondering whether there is something about the high voltage caps... the formulas on the thread I linked to predict that the transfer of energy will be less efficient in high voltage caps, but if they are discharged in the right way I think they may produce some interesting effects. I think this mainly because of tesla's patents except he wasn't using high voltage discharge to charge batteries...

[theremart]

hmmm. Mart I have had no trouble running a solidstate on 24v. I had to replace the mj3055 transistor to a MLJ21194 as it was over heating, but never had any problems with the h11d1.

Something that may or may not help is this. Use a really thin wire on the output of the h11d1. The thinner it is the less current it will flow. Use really thick wire from the negative terminal to the anode of the SCR, and from the cathode to the cap. the h1's NPN is only rated for 500ma I think, it shouldnt be getting hot, especially if the current had a lower resistance path to travel.

Check all your pins, ive never had one heat up???

Thanks for those tips...

I am running a slightly modified version that was approved by JB. The specs in the book are not quite right....

I will send you a private message...

[theremart]

RE: caps..

Just as a quick note many people are having better success using high farad caps and apparently this is what John used in his Monopole that ran indefinatly.

See this thread...

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2450-conservation-charge-violated.html

There may still be something to charging low farad caps to high voltage. But so far everyone I know is having better success with the other configuration.

How big do you recommend?

Thanks!

[Sephiroth]

e. What is the capacitor type (ceramic, electrolytic/etc.) of 3.3 and 1 micro Farad ?

You can try various caps. Plans state 3.3uF (microfarads) 600v cap. Pull apart an old CFL, there is one in there around those ratings. Can use higher capacitance caps too.

Just as a quick note many people are having better success using high farad caps and apparently this is what John used in his Monopole that ran indefinatly.

See this thread...

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2450-conservation-charge-violated.html

There may still be something to charging low farad caps to high voltage. But so far everyone I know is having better success with the other configuration.

[ren]

Hello all,

I have several questions regarding the solid state version and have attached a schematic I found online. Please help:
1. Is this a complete and accurate circuit? Are the pins 4 & 5 on H11D1 correct or interchanged?

Look for a h11d1 data sheet on the net. The output side is a simple npn transistor and it is hooked up in darlington configuration to the other npn.

a. Are all resistors 1/4 watt?

That'll do the job

b. Are all 3 windings on trifilar 23 gauge similar to magnet wire? Someone mentioned using 26 gauge for one of the primary windings, is that better?

They are magnet wire, must be coated/insulated. 3 lengths of #23

c. What is the core material and dimensions? I have a 3/8" diameter ferrite rod of 10" length.

Core can be welding rods, or air core. Ferrite might work too.

d. 1N4007 physically looks like a diode with 2 ends, do I need 4 of them to make the full bridge rectifier as shown right of the coil?

No idea what your asking, a diode has two ends. You can use 4 to make a bridge, they will work fine.

e. What is the capacitor type (ceramic, electrolytic/etc.) of 3.3 and 1 micro Farad ?

You can try various caps. Plans state 3.3uF (microfarads) 600v cap. Pull apart an old CFL, there is one in there around those ratings. Can use higher capacitance caps too.

f. What is the capacitor voltage ratings?

Make sure it is fairly high (50 plus volts), ESPECIALLY if it is low uF rated.

g. What is "SCR 800V" shown next to the batteries being charged?

SCR stands for silicone controlled rectifier

h. What is the part # of the Diode shown next to "2N3584" ?

Its not a diode, if there is a diode on yours you have something different to me. 2n3584 is the transistor which is Darlington'ed to the optocoupler

2. How long will it take to re-charge a typical 12V car battery of 650CCA, that has drained down to 8-10V?

Depends on your gauge size, overall length, input voltage and quality of build and battery

3. Will this circuit prevent overcharging?

No

4. What's the cheapest way to use a 120V AC wall outlet to use as supply 12V?

Buy a cheap stepdown transformer for the rated voltage. try and get one that will provide a couple of amps @ 12v. Talk to your local electronic shop.

a. Can I use one of the 12V transformers used to laptops, LCDs, routers, etc.? If so, what should be the minimum amps rating of the transformer?

Yes. Minimum 1 amp.

b. Can I use the 12V DC from the PC power supply? If so, what should be the minimum amps rating of the line voltage?

Yes, see above.

5. Will the circuit charge any type of battery (Li Ion/Polymer, NiMh, etc.)?

Probably, but care must be taken. LEARN AS MUCH ABOUT YOUR BATTERY AS POSSIBLE. I would say no to all of them but Lead Acids and NiCads. Just not worth the risk.

6. My ultimate goal to have a charger than can charge any car battery pack from 12V to 144V car EV pack (6/12V batteries in series/parallel) using 120V AC as source. Is that feasible by modifying this somehow? The commerical units are available of Bedini design, but for $1300!

Bottom line, yes you could, But all your costs for research and builds, not to mention all your time spent, you would soon see that it would cost more and your results probably wouldnt be as good.

Thank you.

You're welcome, good luck with your build.

[ren]

hmmm. Mart I have had no trouble running a solidstate on 24v. I had to replace the mj3055 transistor to a MLJ21194 as it was over heating, but never had any problems with the h11d1.

Something that may or may not help is this. Use a really thin wire on the output of the h11d1. The thinner it is the less current it will flow. Use really thick wire from the negative terminal to the anode of the SCR, and from the cathode to the cap. the h1's NPN is only rated for 500ma I think, it shouldnt be getting hot, especially if the current had a lower resistance path to travel.

Check all your pins, ive never had one heat up???

[theremart]

YIKES copyright laws red alert!!

Please remove that schematic, as that is copy written material and life will be better for this board! ( I know I was hounded by Rick F. for posting it on the monopole boards bad me )

But will be glad to share what I know, All is good as I have built this, and I am charging a battery now with it. The circuit as show does has limitations, don't go over 13 V imput as it will cook the 555 and the opto. ( I am working on a revision now to separate those so i can take a 24V input. )

Be sure to know the updated schematic is ok that ships with the FEG with the exception that pins 4 and 5 are switched on the opto.

There are two caps on this board, if you look earlier on this message board you will find recommended ratings for the caps...

I myself prefer the ferrous material over the welding rods.

I have just built this like a month ago, and I am still learning myself, but will gladly share what I know.

Cheers!

[cowboyrx]

Several questions

Hello all,

I have several questions regarding the solid state version and have attached a schematic I found online. Please help:
1. Is this a complete and accurate circuit? Are the pins 4 & 5 on H11D1 correct or interchanged?
a. Are all resistors 1/4 watt?
b. Are all 3 windings on trifilar 23 gauge similar to magnet wire? Someone mentioned using 26 gauge for one of the primary windings, is that better?
c. What is the core material and dimensions? I have a 3/8" diameter ferrite rod of 10" length.
d. 1N4007 physically looks like a diode with 2 ends, do I need 4 of them to make the full bridge rectifier as shown right of the coil?
e. What is the capacitor type (ceramic, electrolytic/etc.) of 3.3 and 1 micro Farad ?
f. What is the capacitor voltage ratings?
g. What is "SCR 800V" shown next to the batteries being charged?
h. What is the part # of the Diode shown next to "2N3584" ?

2. How long will it take to re-charge a typical 12V car battery of 650CCA, that has drained down to 8-10V?

3. Will this circuit prevent overcharging?

4. What's the cheapest way to use a 120V AC wall outlet to use as supply 12V?
a. Can I use one of the 12V transformers used to laptops, LCDs, routers, etc.? If so, what should be the minimum amps rating of the transformer?
b. Can I use the 12V DC from the PC power supply? If so, what should be the minimum amps rating of the line voltage?

5. Will the circuit charge any type of battery (Li Ion/Polymer, NiMh, etc.)?

6. My ultimate goal to have a charger than can charge any car battery pack from 12V to 144V car EV pack (6/12V batteries in series/parallel) using 120V AC as source. Is that feasible by modifying this somehow? The commerical units are available of Bedini design, but for $1300!

Thank you.

[theremart]

Had an idea today..

Has anyone ever taken an ignition coil and used it on the standard Solid State circuit found in the FEG book or used Aarons?

Just considered trying this, and wanted to know how crazy an idea it is.

[Tarcil]

Thanks for the post, theremart. That's good info.

At this point I suspect that the replacement transistor is not working out. I have some BD243Cs on order from Mouser. If that solves the problem, I'll study the data sheets and report back.

Any suggestions for modification of the FEG to go to 24V? The opto copuler got too warm for me, but oh, I love how this charges...

I'm new at this, but... maybe you could try putting a resistor in series with the output of the optocoupler. That should cut down on the current without affecting the timing.

Cheers!

[theremart]

Moving up to 24V

Hi,

Any suggestions for modification of the FEG to go to 24V? The opto copuler got too warm for me, but oh, I love how this charges...

Thanks!

[theremart]

[Tarcil]

Hello to all!

This is my first post, and I'd like to say how refreshing it was to discover this forum. I have already learned a great deal and hope to contribute something in return.

I recently got my replication of the Bedini SS running. I followed the circuit diagram on p42 of Free Energy Generation, with reference to p46 for component values. On the output side, I'm using a neon bulb with SCR (TYN1006) to discharge the output capacitor (4.7uF, 250V) into a resistive load (40W incandescent).

One difference with my circuit is that I was unable to find the BD243C transistor, so I used a TIP41C instead. The specs for this device are similar (NPN type, 100V, 1A) and it seems to be working fine.

My coil is trifilar wound, 450 turns of 22 ga magnet wire, laid side-by-side. This type of coil has three identical windings: one is the primary, another is used to trigger the transistor, and the third collects output energy, which is passed through a high-voltage rectifier into the output capacitor.

The system runs in two modes: with an open-air coil, and with a steel core comprised of several common nails bundled together. The power supply is an AC wall transformer, fed through a low voltage rectifier with a capacitor (4.7uF) to smooth out ripples. More about the power supply in a few minutes.

Breadboard construction was used throughout, with the large parts screwed into a wood base for stability. Happily, the circuit started working on the first try. (That is, after I got the resistors wired correctly ;-) The little neon bulb flashes at a perceptible rate, and the incandescent load warms to the touch.

== Performance Data ==

Using the air core, the primary coil oscillates at 5.6 KHz, with a pulse width of 32 uS. The output cap discharges to load at 59 Hz, with one stair step visible.

Using the steel core, the primary coil oscillates at 3.6 KHz, with a pulse width of 40 uS. The output cap discharges to load at 40 Hz, with two stair steps visible.

I have a couple of analog meters on the power supply (after the rectifier). With the air core, the circuit draws 115mA at 11V DC. With the steel core, current increases slightly to about 122mA at 11V DC.

== Questions ==

1. I have become rather confused about the power supply. Even with the capacitor, the supply is noisy with lots of spikes up to about 20V. The circuit seems to thrive on the noise. I spent quite a while trying to replace the the AC supply with a stable, bench type DC supply. But I could not get the primary to oscillate with the DC supply. Any ideas?

2. The little neon bulb should trigger the SCR when it sees about 90 volts. But the scope only reads about 10 volts. Why?

3. I find the stair steps on the charging waveform quite remarkable. With adjustments to the circuit, I have seen as many as four steps. Can anyone explain what they represent?

And finally,

4. How can I improve this circuit?

Any comments or suggestions would be most welcome.

Thanks!