Bedini Solid State Oscillators

[kapierenundkopieren]

Strange phenomenon - the radiant is gone

Hi guys, i'm still charging the 44Ah battery with the Bedini SS charger (FEG pg. 46). I was determined to test this system out before moving to a bigger coil. Today it's been 13 days from when i hooked it up (i know - LOL), but it's been charging slowly up and now it's pretty much full.

Today a stange thing occured when i was checking up things around the charger. My setup goes like this: i use a computer PSU and the 12v output goes to a capacitor bank (to smooth the voltage spikes that the SS charger is causing) and to the SS charger input. The SS charger output goes to the battery.
I checked up the battery voltage with a digital multimeter like always, then took a neon bulb by one side and checked to see if it glows on the battery terminals and on the PSU output terminals, also on the capacitor bank and the PSU casing and it did glow everywhere, just like always.
Then i checked also if it glows on the mains ground terminal and it did not and i was askyng myself why the heck is this. The mains ground terminal is connected directly to the PSU casing and the PSU GND output, so i thought it shoud glow there also. Then i took my multimeter, set it on ohm meter and checked the connection from the mains ground to the PSU casing and it did show 0 ohm, just like i thought it should (no flying sparks or anything similar). From that moment on, the radiant effect disappeared from the entire system and now i can't get the neon to glow anywhere anymore. Also the battery voltage jumped up immediately in that instant for 0,05V - or maybe something happened to my multimeter to cause it to display a higher voltage. After that i checked every function of my multimeter and seems to work fine, i also checked the entire system and everything is just like before, but the radiant effect is gone... i still left the system to charge the battery to see if the radiant effect returns... will see tomorrow.

Now why i couldn't get the neon to glow on the mains ground and what could possibly cause the radiant to disappear?

Dann

[blackchisel97]

[QUOTE=kapierenundkopieren;109495]Hi Vtech and thanks for your reply! It seems to me that the original circuit should do about half as good as your described circuit - should i simply put an 1k potentiometer instead of the base resistor (2k) and adjust it properly? Yes. I like to have a bulb in series with pot. It helps you tune well since the filament's resistance changes with more current flowing through. Cold filament has low resistance but it will increase and start to glow. this is usually indicator that optimal resistance has been reachedWould then the radiant charging effect be still present?Yes Right now i can barely light a neon on the battery terminals by holding it by one side.
Do you still use the original (by the FEG book) transistors and SRC in your setup?I had built couple cap pulsers. There is a bit "tuning" involved with capacitor and pulsing frequency. If you want to charge battery your capacitor should charge to 2-3V over the battery and get quickly discharge. This timing is very important. However, if you want to desulfate battery, capacitor should be charged to 20-25V before dumping over battery terminals. You have to experiment with different values as well as pulsing frequency and duty cycle of 555. You may need to modify 555 circuit to have wider range. You may find a problem with SCR latching (remaining triggered) due to the large pulse. There are other method of pulsing including Mosfet. What wattage are your resistors?1/4W Would a heavy duty diode bridge make a difference?Your bridge has to be at least 1000V and able to handle those pulses. They are very powerful. I've seen bridge and SCR literally exploding into pieces. Those suggestions are base on my experience.

Did you left the bulb in the circuit after adjusting the base resistance or did you took it out? I left it. I found convenient indicator and sort of a smart fuse, in case of poor connection on the terminal.

And by inverted trigger you mean by simply inverting the trigger coil leads?Not quite, what I meant was connecting coil in Joule Thief fashion. Your trigger coil connected to the primary positive instead of a ground.

...one thing that still boggles me is the voltage rating of the 1uf capacitor in the timer part - in the original schematic the voltage is not defined, but in the similar monopole circuit on the yahoo group it is rated 600v... i wonder why - i can only measure a few volts across it. Yes, and I don't have a clue why. There is no need for hv cap here.

Thanks again!
You're very welcome
Vtech

[kapierenundkopieren]

Hi Vtech and thanks for your reply! It seems to me that the original circuit should do about half as good as your described circuit - should i simply put an 1k potentiometer instead of the base resistor (2k) and adjust it properly? Would then the radiant charging effect be still present? Right now i can barely light a neon on the battery terminals by holding it by one side.
Do you still use the original (by the FEG book) transistors and SRC in your setup? What wattage are your resistors? Would a heavy duty diode bridge make a difference?

Did you left the bulb in the circuit after adjusting the base resistance or did you took it out?

And by inverted trigger you mean by simply inverting the trigger coil leads?

...one thing that still boggles me is the voltage rating of the 1uf capacitor in the timer part - in the original schematic the voltage is not defined, but in the similar monopole circuit on the yahoo group it is rated 600v... i wonder why - i can only measure a few volts across it.

Thanks again!

Dann

[blackchisel97]

bigger coil

Hi all! This is my first post, but i'm familiar with this forum for about two years now.
I just built the Bedini SS device and i'm charging a battery right now with it. I used the same resistor and capacitor values as in the FEG book on page 46. The device uses about 260 to 290mA DC when charging a battery and the output is about 100mA. When the output is not connected, i get 367V pulses on it and the input current rises. If i connect a 220V 20W lightbulb on the output i can see the pulses.

Now i was wondering how big batteries will it charge, 'cause now i'm charging a 44Ah 12v car battery and it seems to go almost nowhere. I'm assuming that it will take 3 to 5 days to charge it, will tell you when it's done.

The transistors and the SRC stay cool all the time, so i think that this circuit can be made to charge atleast twice as fast as it does now (the output could be two to three times higher - up to 1000V). Did anybody tried to improve the circuit that way - would a bigger coil have that effect?

I just hope to find some answers here.
Thx for all the info in this thread!

Dann

Hi Dann
I have built several SS devices in the past 2 years. What I found is that the coil needs to have low impedance. I wound tri filar coil with 100 ft of AWG 18 - like a 1:1 transformer and tried both, normal and inverted trigger. Inverted gives me better charging with lower input. Circuit will start to oscillate at 3V IN which is great if one wants to use a solar panel. It will charge with v. low light! I adjusted trigger withe a help of a scope to see the wave. I put 12V5W automotive bulb in series with 1k 5W pot and trigger. Trying to keep bulb from glowing bright. Circuit draws near 2A at 9V. I just restored 3 small LAB's and working on bigger 1000CCA. Circuit works great. I'm charging off the bridge with 4uF DC cap across. If I take a clamp off the batt. terminal for 1 sec. potential exceeds 600V. Output wires need to be short and good size to lower impedance. I cut open one of the batteries and was able to see what's going on inside. Not everything can be seen


Vtech

[kapierenundkopieren]

Hi all! This is my first post, but i'm familiar with this forum for about two years now.
I just built the Bedini SS device and i'm charging a battery right now with it. I used the same resistor and capacitor values as in the FEG book on page 46. The device uses about 260 to 290mA DC when charging a battery and the output is about 100mA. When the output is not connected, i get 367V pulses on it and the input current rises. If i connect a 220V 20W lightbulb on the output i can see the pulses.

Now i was wondering how big batteries will it charge, 'cause now i'm charging a 44Ah 12v car battery and it seems to go almost nowhere. I'm assuming that it will take 3 to 5 days to charge it, will tell you when it's done.

The transistors and the SRC stay cool all the time, so i think that this circuit can be made to charge atleast twice as fast as it does now (the output could be two to three times higher - up to 1000V). Did anybody tried to improve the circuit that way - would a bigger coil have that effect?

I just hope to find some answers here.
Thx for all the info in this thread!

Dann

[Farmhand]

50K pot in place of the 18K resistor

G'day Chip Shorter, I actually used a 20 k resistor there because I didn't have an 18 k, seems to work well with that.

What have you found the best resistance value on the pot for your setup ?
I was wanting to experiment with some different resistance values as well.

It's a very simple circuit that seems to work very well, I also want to up-size to a much larger coil so it can be used on larger batteries, with a better transistor too.

Regards

[Chip Shorter]

@ Farmhand.. I built that circuit a couple of weeks ago. Lately I put 50K pot in place of the 18K resistor. I charged up a cap rather fast. I think my next trick is to put a tri- filer coil and add a scr Pulse with a neon trigger. After that I want to go multi- filer.

[John Findlay]

Hi all,

I'm new to the board and I've been trying to get the page 46 circuit from John Bedini's FEG book to work, but I've run into a couple of problems.

First, I had the SSG working quite well from the Monopole group and I read someplace here that winding a THIRD coil, wound on top of the other two (not trifilar with them) would work just fine. Well, I don't know if it does or not.

I DO get over 200volts from the new 3rd coil, while charging the electrolytic cap that straddles the full wave bridge diodes, so I *think* that coil is OK, but I'm not getting pulsing to the output.

I've read through (PHEW!) most of this thread, and I naturally corrected the BD243C type transistor error and the pins 4/5 mixup on the optoisolator, and I've replaced most of the IC's at least once, to check that they hadn't blown out, but I can't seem to figure out why there's no pulsing at the output.

Should I be getting a square wave output across pins 3 and 1 on the 555 timer?

I'm using all the correct part numbers for the IC's and I'm pretty close on the cap and the resistor values. Any ideas about how to troubleshoot my lack of output? I'm drawing a blank.

Thanks!

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I finally got the time to put together this circuit-
It was posted back on page12 of this thread.

Seems to be working great, my coil is only small but with a steel rod "bedini style core" I get 520 Hz and with no core I get 2.7 Khz, input is around 220 - 240 Ma. It's charging up 7 ah batteries likety split. Transistor is a mje3055t and it runs from a 12 volt battery.

Here is the waveform -


And here is the setup barebones can't wait to get it all boxed up.


Awesome thread this but very long, lots of posts to go through.

Regards
Andrew.

[Slinky]

So where to get answers to the relevant questions for this thread?

I guess the basic stuff just isn't interesting anymore for the more experienced builder.

Can batteries also get conditioned when on the input side?

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to using a psu input over a battery apart from the obvious act of changing the battery?

If a self oscillating ssg isn't releasing all it's energy each collapse, could this read higher than the ssg input voltage?

Is the arch of my h wave supposed to be the base voltage of my input or could it be higher if my coil doesn't release all it's charge each cycle?

It would be a great help if anyone could take the time to answer.

[Slinky]

No problem, you are correct.

Is the arch of my h wave my base voltage? Or could this be much higher if the charge isn't fully released each cycle?

[theremart]

RE: OTG capacitor

Hi all, very interesting thread, I have put together the astable part of the pulse generator circuit linked by smw1998a, I actually found that PDF about 3 months ago in a google search, the astable part was easy to find the parts from what I have around but I am having trouble finding the 330pf and 470pf polypropylene capacitors for the monostable part, I may have to drive to town to order them I guess (long way), I am in Australia and can order online but I am having trouble finding where to buy them.

Any idea's where to look ?

I'm very keen to try this, many sad batteries here.

Cheers

------------------

PS. Here is what I have so far of the circuit in the PDF (the astable part) on a breadboard-http://u7beag.bay.livefilestore.com/...001.JPG?psid=1

I tested it and it works perfectly.

You may want to post in the thread that is created for this, Search for OTG Pulse Geneartor
should do the trick, I have built one as well, works now.

[Farmhand]

Slinky, I went ahead and used ceramic caps and it seems to be working spot, on at 200Hz I have a duty cycle of 0.1% thats 200 x 5us isnt it ? is 5 uS .0005 seconds, I hope so I'm not very schooled up on these things.

Actually I'm not sure if the caps I used are ceramics they are very small and shiny yellow one is marked 471 the other 331. I'll edit with a pic later I have a busy day today.

Cheers

[Slinky]

ceramic caps

Also, are ceramic caps ok, I was just presuming it's ok.

[Farmhand]

Hi all, very interesting thread, I have put together the astable part of the pulse generator circuit linked by smw1998a, I actually found that PDF about 3 months ago in a google search, the astable part was easy to find the parts from what I have around but I am having trouble finding the 330pf and 470pf polypropylene capacitors for the monostable part, I may have to drive to town to order them I guess (long way), I am in Australia and can order online but I am having trouble finding where to buy them.

Any idea's where to look ?

I'm very keen to try this, many sad batteries here.

Cheers