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Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

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  • Guruji
    replied
    Stingo

    Regarding the latest version circuit is that negative charger? Can this circuit be done to switch from postive to negative charging just with a switch?
    Sorry for many questions Sucahyo but I like this circuit
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    Hi Sucahyo that double circuit is with one capacitor on the FWBR. Is this better for charging?
    What type are you using still 250v 1uf?
    Thanks
    I use 200uF now but I don't think it would be different from 1uF 250V one.

    The one that I post previously use two capacitor. I now use two capacitor for double circuit because the output is greater if the coil collapse path is not blocked by the capacitor. So now the capacitor only block the normal current.



    Two circuit = double output power, three circuit = three times output power. Very usefull if you want to limit the current on each circuit. I prefer three with 200mA output each instead of one with 600mA output.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Stingo

    Hi Sucahyo that double circuit is with one capacitor on the FWBR. Is this better for charging?
    What type are you using still 250v 1uf?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Thanks kcarring, I wish you well too.

    Thanks for the info Guruji. I test single diode version with alum water filled gel battery recently, and it seems to have less capacity since it deplete too quick with computer fan as load.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Stingo

    Hi Sucahyo today I tried my last circuit again with the FWBR and measured 20ma. Maybe I did something wrong last time. Ok nice circuit.
    I think both negative and postive charging should be used to revive batteries.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    Thanks, lots of help there!

    Your a good man, I wish you well.

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    I completely do not understand why you would have a full wave bridge rectifier after a diode. One wire. You've already rectified, like in the SSG, no need to rectify again, and you'll never get full wave, because as i see it, there is no full wave! Not to mention the loss you'll suffer... before the first diode my circuit measures 6.37v. My solar cell is outputing 6.38v. By the time it goes past the second diode in the FWBR, you got 5.86v. It'll run all night under a lamp (100 watt), or... if I hook it up to a 6v battery, it'll drain the battery - and no charging takes place.
    The purposes of FWBR is not to increase output but to allow normal electricity that ride along the bounce of spike. I think this require microfarad capacitance.

    When I only use single diode, I experience battery that no longer accept charge. With FWBR, I don't experience it. If you browse battery charging thread, you will read a lot people mention unusable battery if charged with radiant alone.

    Some get good result by alternating radiant charging with normal charging. That is the purposes of FWBR.

    Here is what I use for two circuit combined:



    Here is my experiment results comparing output:
    Stingo experiment with 3V battery load.
    single diode negative of charged battery to positive of source = 110mA, with load consume 220mA (Ef=50%).
    partial cap isolated FWBR = 100mA, consume 270mA (Ef=37%)

    Notice that FWBR produce worse efficiency, but I will still use it because FWBR give longer live to battery.

    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    I must be making some sort of fundamental error on this circuit i guess. As it stands my solar cell, when hooked directly to my battery charges much, much, much better than when running through the circuit, in fact the circuit does not charge at all. It just doesnt draw current or pass current into the battery and there are substantial voltage losses as well.
    Yes, unfortunately, direct charging give better charge for battery with smaller voltage. The benefit of this stingo circuit is it charge much cooler and allow the battery to get more voltage. You should be able to charge 12V battery with 6V solar cell.

    I think you should experiment on coil and resistor combination, to force more input curent. Put the amp meter in the input and try to get as high input current as possible with maximum potentiometer value. 4K7 one play big role.

    If you already hit minimum value of the 4K7 potentiometer, change 97ohm with smaller value. You need higher watt for this resistor because it get heat up. But I think you can use 1/4 watt with 6V input.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7imix
    replied
    Kcarring, you need to adjust the resistance until the circuit oscillates. If you have a scope you can see if it is oscillating. If it won't oscillate, some parameter needs to be changed. One trick to try is disconnecting and reconnecting the battery after changing the resistance. Sometimes the kick from the circuit being closed gives it a jump start and it oscillates.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    I completely do not understand why you would have a full wave bridge rectifier after a diode. One wire. You've already rectified, like in the SSG, no need to rectify again, and you'll never get full wave, because as i see it, there is no full wave! Not to mention the loss you'll suffer... before the first diode my circuit measures 6.37v. My solar cell is outputing 6.38v. By the time it goes past the second diode in the FWBR, you got 5.86v. It'll run all night under a lamp (100 watt), or... if I hook it up to a 6v battery, it'll drain the battery - and no charging takes place.

    I must be making some sort of fundamental error on this circuit i guess. As it stands my solar cell, when hooked directly to my battery charges much, much, much better than when running through the circuit, in fact the circuit does not charge at all. It just doesnt draw current or pass current into the battery and there are substantial voltage losses as well.
    Last edited by kcarring; 04-08-2011, 07:20 PM. Reason: add

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
    Great .

    How much input current with that coil?

    Using 47K variable resistor is not a problem. The 4K7 one maybe too small if you want to run it at higher frequency.

    The capacitor value still arbritrary right now. I don't know if it need to be bigger or smaller. Try to compare the output current with one diode version. If you can achieve almost the same output current then it is good enough.

    No real luck so far... The first inductor provided zero current to charge with, and about 20 mA input.

    The second inductor, a ferrite torroid, with about 20 ga wire, perhaps about 20-30 winds (from a power supply) - same story, no current to charge, no draw, loss of voltage.

    I'll keep trying tho.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Latest version

    Hi Sucahyo very nice regarding the latest version is simpler to build. Is this more efficient? I will build this too. Regarding resistors only 100ohm 2w and the others 1/4w?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Great .

    How much input current with that coil?

    Using 47K variable resistor is not a problem. The 4K7 one maybe too small if you want to run it at higher frequency.

    The capacitor value still arbritrary right now. I don't know if it need to be bigger or smaller. Try to compare the output current with one diode version. If you can achieve almost the same output current then it is good enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    My First Stingo

    I finally got some time to try and play with The Stingo Circuit!

    Should be fun.

    I do not have a torroid wound yet, but I through in an inductor for the purpose of setup.

    I have a couple of questions, but it might be easier to look at what I have layed out on the breadboard.

    Please click on the picture for the "bigger picture", as you will then be able to read some notes and values.

    ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

    Further:
    All my diodes are 1n4001

    I did not have the exact variable resistors so I have approximated for now... but my impedence on the PNP to the coil start and NPN collector is limited by a 47k (instead of 100k) variable resistor, that might be a problem?

    What value and type of capacitor on the ground end of the charging battery should I be thinking of? I just put a ceramic 104 in there as placement.

    Thanks for any pointers!

    Holy Diodes Batman!

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    Hi Sucahyo I had changed that 100k resistor to a pot but not much difference. Most efficient 100ma. I was thinking that I would use this circuit to an earth battery .
    Anyway thanks.
    I see, thanks.

    I now use this version:


    For 3 terminal stepper motor utilizing only two terminal:


    Good luck with the earth battery .

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Stingo

    Hi Sucahyo I had changed that 100k resistor to a pot but not much difference. Most efficient 100ma. I was thinking that I would use this circuit to an earth battery .
    Anyway thanks.

    Leave a comment:

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