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Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

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  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by 7imix View Post
    Thanks for clarifying that. I have seen high current draw without oscillation sometimes, but it may only happen with certain coils and resistances.
    Ok. Mine always do not draw current when not oscillating.

    Originally posted by sampojo View Post
    Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?
    I use many power source and I found that it seems the power supply need to be at least 2 Amp for 1 ohm coil.

    Using lower amperage power supply will result in reduced power but good efficiency. My stingo consumption for charging big battery is about 1.5A.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7imix
    replied
    Originally posted by sampojo View Post
    Thanks to you and sucahyo for your helpful replies

    for 7imix:#585



    I suppose you are using the thinly insulated motor wire, which I have not had a chance to look for yet. I assume it is not hard to get or very expensive. You always use that wire for windings, not the general purpose wire, don't you? (except for something like the Kapanadze coil, maybe?)

    Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?
    Sometimes I use the wire with thicker insulation if I am winding a high voltage coil.

    I have not been able to get the stingo to oscillate using an ac mains source. Use a battery. If you try an ac mains source, let us know if it works.

    Leave a comment:


  • sampojo
    replied
    Thanks to you and sucahyo for your helpful replies

    for 7imix:#585

    Another thing to try is finding the biggest ferrite toroid you can find and winding as many windings as you can of 22, 24, or 26 gauge wire around the toroid,
    I suppose you are using the thinly insulated motor wire, which I have not had a chance to look for yet. I assume it is not hard to get or very expensive. You always use that wire for windings, not the general purpose wire, don't you? (except for something like the Kapanadze coil, maybe?)

    Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?
    Last edited by sampojo; 07-10-2011, 06:17 PM. Reason: additional question

    Leave a comment:


  • 7imix
    replied
    Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
    No, stingo supposed to not draw any current if not oscillating.

    If you experience that, then it is possible that you connect the PNP not in inverted way.
    Thanks for clarifying that. I have seen high current draw without oscillation sometimes, but it may only happen with certain coils and resistances.

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Thanks 7imix.

    Originally posted by sampojo View Post
    So this circuit grabs some radiant power thru oscillation without a sudden open or discharge of the coil? Or do the transistors act as switches?

    You guys hurt my brain when you threw in the Bedini circuit. Is this the SSG type that imhotep shows with the CPU fan, but now combined somehow with the stingo circuit?
    I think stingo switch coil better than joule thief. with much lower duty cyle too.


    While stingo can even be used to run stepper motor, it do not require motor. Yes, it is an SSG type with one major difference, stingo consumption will reduce with more load.


    To charge battery, you must use the FWBR version.

    Originally posted by 7imix View Post
    If not, you should be able to observe a large current draw when the stingo is NOT oscillating, and the current draw should drop when it is. You should also hear a whine from the transformer when stingo is oscillating. Don't leave the stingo drawing current without oscillating for too long.
    No, stingo supposed to not draw any current if not oscillating.

    If you experience that, then it is possible that you connect the PNP not in inverted way.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7imix
    replied
    Originally posted by sampojo View Post
    I would like to get started on a circuit, but haven't as yet spotted the spec on the coil in the multi-circuit stingo diagram in this thread. I have a slew of tired rechargable tool nicads and nimhs to get to work on and can't wait to start salvaging my car batteries.

    So this circuit grabs some radiant power thru oscillation without a sudden open or discharge of the coil? Or do the transistors act as switches?

    You guys hurt my brain when you threw in the Bedini circuit. Is this the SSG type that imhotep shows with the CPU fan, but now combined somehow with the stingo circuit?
    Many different coils will work with the stingo. The stingo can be adjusted with several potentiometers to find parameters that work with a particular coil. There are also different variations of stingo that use transistors with different values.

    Here is my current understanding of how the stingo works. I could be wrong, but this description may be useful anyway.

    When power is first applied to the circuit, the pnp turns on immediately which turns on the npn. Current then begins flowing through the coil, building up a magnetic field in it, until the resistor network connected to the pnp base charges up enough to turn it off. The pnp then very powerfully turns the npn off, causing the current through the coil to be interrupted extremely quickly and causing a large flyback pulse from the coil's magnetic field collapsing. This impulse can reach into the kilovolts sometimes, but is exceedingly brief. This is what gives the impulse so called "radiant" characteristics. Then, the circuit starts all over again from the beginning.

    The particular values of battery voltage, coil inductance, coil resistance, potentiometer settings, and transistor values will cause this oscillation to occur at a certain frequency and with a certain impulse voltage. One of the great things about stingo is that the frequency can be adjusted at a very high resolution once the circuit is oscillating. The stingo will only oscillate across a certain range of potentiometer settings (and thus frequencies) depending on the component values used.

    To get started with stingo, try breaking apart a "wall wart" transformer and using this as the coil. Drive the secondary (finer wire, more windings) with the stingo using a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery and see if you can get a small neon bulb from Radio Shack to light up across the primary (thicker wire, fewer windings). If you have an oscilloscope this can help you to see if the stingo is oscillating or not by measuring across the low voltage side of the coil. If not, you should be able to observe a large current draw when the stingo is NOT oscillating, and the current draw should drop when it is. You should also hear a whine from the transformer when stingo is oscillating. Don't leave the stingo drawing current without oscillating for too long. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can sometimes serve to kick stingo into oscillation.

    Just try stuff, and have fun! Another thing to try is finding the biggest ferrite toroid you can find and winding as many windings as you can of 22, 24, or 26 gauge wire around the toroid, then see if you can get it to oscillate. Winding a toroid is tedious and exacting but fulfilling. I enjoy winding toroids now, especially bigger ones an inch or two in diameter.
    Last edited by 7imix; 07-08-2011, 09:23 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sampojo
    replied
    I would like to get started on a circuit, but haven't as yet spotted the spec on the coil in the multi-circuit stingo diagram in this thread. I have a slew of tired rechargable tool nicads and nimhs to get to work on and can't wait to start salvaging my car batteries.

    So this circuit grabs some radiant power thru oscillation without a sudden open or discharge of the coil? Or do the transistors act as switches?

    You guys hurt my brain when you threw in the Bedini circuit. Is this the SSG type that imhotep shows with the CPU fan, but now combined somehow with the stingo circuit?
    Last edited by sampojo; 07-08-2011, 06:29 PM. Reason: additional question

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Just reminder about output diode. I try 1N4007 as diode for my FWBR, it became hot enough to melt the soldering with only 1A input.......

    Please use at least twice input current rating.

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Here is video showing me lighting up CFL with its filament. This do not need high voltage transformer. Kinda like lighting up old light bulb.
    YouTube - CFL lighting with filament

    I use stingo with toroid coil, one recovery diode version.

    Using similar configuration of CFL replacing charged battery, non filament produce whiter light but less bright even at 1.5Amp at 12V.
    Youtube - CFL lighting comparison of filament and non filament


    Configuration:


    The top one produce orange glow, bottom one produce white glow
    Last edited by sucahyo; 05-20-2011, 02:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    So even with one stingo one capacitor is better with same reason? As if giving negative and positive charge at the same time. Yes?
    Thanks
    Yes, not at the same time but alternatingly.

    If you want just the normal electricity add capacitor in parallel with the charged battery. Capacitor in paralel capture the spike better than the battery however it also prevent high voltage desulfating property or cold charging.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Fwbr

    So even with one stingo one capacitor is better with same reason? As if giving negative and positive charge at the same time. Yes?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Important update for combiner

    I recently thought that I forget something important when I use cap at the diode to the coil for the FWBR combiner. I now rememberred that the cap will prevent the difference of potential of one coil to the other from charging the battery.

    So now I use the cap only on the diode to the source battery positive. This allow the potential difference of one coil to the other to charge the battery too. Since three stingo may always run at difference frequency, the voltage of each coil will be different. Imagine if one reach positive spike while other is at negative spike bouncing then the updated circuit will allow this voltage difference to charge the battery

    Maybe just my imagination but I notice much faster charging speed with same circuit.


    WIth three stingo that consume 800mA, 7Ah 12V gel battery charged at 15V when full. This is done on 4 good battery with same results.

    Leave a comment:


  • sucahyo
    replied
    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    In order to diagnose HV with a neon, would you connect it to coil end before rectifier and to source ground as in a Bedini circuit? I find this circuit a lot of fun to play with, but a test neon and even a light bulb for preliminary design would be very useful for setting HV quality and current flow.

    I think this circuit is a nice multi-voltage oscillator well suited for use with solar. I think a small 30 watt amorphous panel, combined with several Stingos, would serve well to pulse a solar battery bank while on cloudy days, early mornings, and late evenings as a conditioning and longevity circuit.

    Cheers @ thanks sucahyo
    Yes, the circuit can raise or reduce the voltage of source to the load battery voltage.

    I usually connect the neon by paralleling it with the coil. So coil end before the diode to the source positive.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    In order to diagnose HV with a neon, would you connect it to coil end before rectifier and to source ground as in a Bedini circuit? I find this circuit a lot of fun to play with, but a test neon and even a light bulb for preliminary design would be very useful for setting HV quality and current flow.

    I think this circuit is a nice multi-voltage oscillator well suited for use with solar. I think a small 30 watt amorphous panel, combined with several Stingos, would serve well to pulse a solar battery bank while on cloudy days, early mornings, and late evenings as a conditioning and longevity circuit.

    Cheers @ thanks sucahyo

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Bedini FWBR

    Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
    If not mistaken, here:
    Thanks Sucahyo

    Leave a comment:

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