Big Joule Theif

[morpher44]

Joule Thief With Honeycomb Bifilar Coil

YouTube - Joule Thief With Honeycomb Bifilar Coil

I've been wanting to try to make a honeycomb coil.
I had read that these have very large inductance for a
small volume, are easy to wind, less wire, less inter-turn
capacitance, and are quite nice to look at.

I thought it would be interesting to see if they could work
with a Joule Thief.
It works!!
I used two 24 AWG wires, one green, one copper, wound
1-to-3-to-5 ... and so on. I had two sets of seven 1/8 in dowel pins.

The honeycomb coil is a coil that Hendershot used in his toy airplane motor circuit, and was used by ham radio gurus back in the day.

They are very nice coils.
This was my first attempt at such a coil. I'm sure others can do better than me.
This sort of coil is another alternative in a "Big Joule Thief" design.

[SkyWatcher]

pulsed energy capture circuit

Hi folks, just want to share an interesting circuit I've been testing. It captures normally wasted energy similar to whats called a tesla switch. It also lights up the halo bulb equally well as it did without the energy capture. Reason for using the lower voltage 1.2V rechargeable cells in parallel was to make it more efficient, similar to the idea of Peter L's attraction motor, less counter voltage to detract from input. heres a cad pic, hope you find it useful.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Lid, yes I've used it for every power outage we've had and it has worked great, though now with the ring-halo floro. it will really be nice. The transformer I've been using that works the best, here is the resistance numbers for transformer.
low voltage winding = approx. 400 milliohms
high voltage winding = approx. 12.6 ohms
I'm using a darlington pair to power it and frequency is around 1.4 khz, adj. with pot of course.
peace love light
Tyson

[Lidmotor]

Pulsing a small 110v wall transformer backwards

Hi Lidmotor, thanks for reply. I tested the inverted JF circuit with the 555 timer varying the on time of the joule thief and it improved things a bit with some less heating in transistor. However, so far the best setup I have tested is using a 555 timer to pulse a regular small transformer that I think came from a drill charger. So I'm pulsing the low voltage side to make it a step-up transformer and it works very well. At 300 milliamps there is no heat discernible in the transistor and much more light at same amp input compared to the joule thief. I would imagine it may be possible to put a cap on the primary pulsed winding to get it to resonate and gain efficiency. For what its worth.
peace love light
Tyson

Tyson----That idea is something that I have wanted to try for a long time--pulse a wall wart transformer backwards to get enough voltage to light an FL. Now I gotta try it. Thanks for the tip. As much as I love my JT based "Halo Light" your way seems to be a simpler way. There is no BEMF charging I guess but I don't really care if it will works on 300 mA. I suppose you could throw a 1N4007 diode in there somewhere to grab the back spike if you wanted to. On the boat I use a small solar panel to charge up the unit everyday anyway.

Cheers,
Lidmotor

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Lidmotor, thanks for reply. I tested the inverted JF circuit with the 555 timer varying the on time of the joule thief and it improved things a bit with some less heating in transistor. However, so far the best setup I have tested is using a 555 timer to pulse a regular small transformer that I think came from a drill charger. So I'm pulsing the low voltage side to make it a step-up transformer and it works very well. At 300 milliamps there is no heat discernible in the transistor and much more light at same amp input compared to the joule thief. I would imagine it may be possible to put a cap on the primary pulsed winding to get it to resonate and gain efficiency. For what its worth.
peace love light
Tyson

[Lidmotor]

The Halo Light

Hi folks, I would like to thank Lidmotor and whoever else for throwing out the idea of using the halo type bulb which I happen to have an older one in my work light, it really pumps out the light with a joule thief circuit with high turn secondary of 24 guage wrapped around. Also works well with a regular small 120V to 12V trafo. wired in a step-up configuration pulsed with 555 at 12V. I notice also with the halo bulb that with the high voltage wires it is sensitive to which way they are connected to bulb, if connected one way it causes a purple glow on one side and a rotating light effect in one spot, however when swapping the connection it lights normally, strange considering its ac off the secondary. And when the elements go bad i can use an ignition coil to light it. Thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

@ All I am currently using the "Halo Light" on my boat for off shore lighting. The round Fl really fills an area with light like Skywatcher said. It simply gets the job done and I rely on it. I'm glad that other people are finding out about it. I am currently working on the SEC project (High voltage from thin air) and trying to figure out a way to get that round FL bulb to "pop" onto that high bright illimination off the SEC. So far no luck there. The SEC seems to really like LEDs instead.

Lidmotor

[SkyWatcher]

lighting dead bulbs

Hi again folks, I was wondering if anyone noticed if the joule thief with typical bifilar wind and secondary high voltage pickup was able to light damaged filament fluoro's as well. I'm currently winding that type because what I've been testing with is the bifilar choke config. with secondary wrapped on outside which I don't think is as efficient. Though also wondering has anyone tried the standard type coil configuration with high voltage secondary pickup wound on a ferrite rod core first then the bifilar JT wind on outside, let me know please. Thanks
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, forget to mention the power draw at highly usable light levels and that is right now 3.75W @ 12V, 300 milliamps. It is plenty of light even when inside the work light but when you take it out, it illuminates the entire room with a surprising amount of light. There is a little heat at the transistor heat sink, probably from the flyback not being used entirely by the bulb.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I would like to thank Lidmotor and whoever else for throwing out the idea of using the halo type bulb which I happen to have an older one in my work light, it really pumps out the light with a joule thief circuit with high turn secondary of 24 guage wrapped around. Also works well with a regular small 120V to 12V trafo. wired in a step-up configuration pulsed with 555 at 12V. I notice also with the halo bulb that with the high voltage wires it is sensitive to which way they are connected to bulb, if connected one way it causes a purple glow on one side and a rotating light effect in one spot, however when swapping the connection it lights normally, strange considering its ac off the secondary. And when the elements go bad i can use an ignition coil to light it. Thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

[eternalightwithin]

But if your 50F cap charged up in a minute then the 3000F cap would take 1 hour.


If you keep your cap over 1/2 full when charging, you might get better charging rate out of it.

David

I got some 50 Farad SCs from Mouser, after finally being backordered for a month. I connected one to a half amp power supply and waited and waited... it seemed like it took at least a minote to charge up to 2.3V. The 50 F SC is a huge sponge when it comes to soaking up electrons. If I connected the PS up to a 3000 F SC, it would take an hour to charge up. If the charging current was 1 milliamp, it would take a thousand hours, or 37 days to charge. But that assumes the leakage current of the SC is much less than 1 mA. If it isn't, then the SC will NEVER charge.

The losses in reasonably sized copper wire would waste most of the energy if the voltage was low. Therefore it would make sense to convert the DC Voltage to a higher voltage to minimize losses. The conversion would take place at the storage point.

[Watson]

I was looking at mouser last night. It actually gets cheaper ( $/Farad ) as you go up in capacitance.
And you get 0.5V increase for "free"

BCAP3000 P270 T04 Maxwell Technologies Supercapacitors

How would you like to store an earth charge of 3000 Farads.

David

P.S. How do you guys get this really low voltage to your house to use properly?

I got some 50 Farad SCs from Mouser, after finally being backordered for a month. I connected one to a half amp power supply and waited and waited... it seemed like it took at least a minote to charge up to 2.3V. The 50 F SC is a huge sponge when it comes to soaking up electrons. If I connected the PS up to a 3000 F SC, it would take an hour to charge up. If the charging current was 1 milliamp, it would take a thousand hours, or 37 days to charge. But that assumes the leakage current of the SC is much less than 1 mA. If it isn't, then the SC will NEVER charge.

The losses in reasonably sized copper wire would waste most of the energy if the voltage was low. Therefore it would make sense to convert the DC Voltage to a higher voltage to minimize losses. The conversion would take place at the storage point.

[Watson]

Magniwork

There's a thread about magniwork here

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/4508-magniwork.html

Looks like a scam ( or an international conspiracy by the oil cartel to discredit free energy research and make a couple of thousand bucks while doing so )

After another enquiry, a fellow JT fan sent me this, and said that Magniwork plagiarized these _free_ plans. I haven't had time to study them to see if they have any merit. The word is, they don't.

http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/mromag.htm

[Sephiroth]

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.

There's a thread about magniwork here

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/4508-magniwork.html

Looks like a scam ( or an international conspiracy by the oil cartel to discredit free energy research and make a couple of thousand bucks while doing so )

[eternalightwithin]

I was looking at mouser last night. It actually gets cheaper ( $/Farad ) as you go up in capacitance.
And you get 0.5V increase for "free"

BCAP3000 P270 T04 Maxwell Technologies Supercapacitors

How would you like to store an earth charge of 3000 Farads.

David

P.S. How do you guys get this really low voltage to your house to use properly?

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.

[Watson]

Any circuit I should follow to get the earth battery to work with a joule thief?

Right now I have a toroid that came from a comp. There's an extra 3 coils unused on it. I'm using a 2n2222 transistor and then 5 LED's. No resistor or diode. I've tried hooking up some salvaged caps but I couldn't get it to light. I"m reading half a volt from my 10g copper wire and a bolt in salt water. I also attached a 10v 3300uF cap in parallel with the earth battery side. It wouldn't light up in the water, yet when I went to take voltage readings off it it would cause the LED to flicker on for a moment. I could just touch it anywhere and it would flicker. But I couldn't get it to light on that 1/2v.

Anyone got a circuit I can follow to create a JT to run from an earth battery? Can anyone run theirs from an earth battery? Do I just need better EB materials? Pirate from OU and youtube is showing using a supercap in parallel with his EB to get his JT to light. I hope that it's not the supercap that's needed. Those look expensive.

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.