Big Joule Theif

[Belangers]

The circuit I was replying about was this (the bifilar)

This is the image i commented on in the reply to you. Sorry, I'm new to forums anyway!

http://i40.tinypic.com/34zku8h.jpg

Marc

Hi Jeanna, i used a toroid for my first JT but for the second one i used a ROD as i dont have access to a big toroid. what i noticed is when my trigger/primary bifilar coil was wound beside the 500T secondary, my LED off the C-E connection lit very dimly and same result when I move it to the secondary. when i transferred the trig/pri coil on top of the secondary coil (can't even remember how many turns i did, i think 3T for base and 7T or 8T for the collector) i managed to measure 120Vac output from the secondary coil with a 1.5V AA input/source. i tried 2x1.5V AA and i got 230Vac max. not yet enough for a CFL or fluoro tube and my 2n3055 transistor gets hot so to the extent possible i'd like to stick to a single 1.2V-1.5V AA source.
i think in order to increase the Vout further, i can do one or a combination of the following:
1. reduce the number or turns of the trigger/pri coil so the transformation ratio increases (??)
2. wind another secondary and connect in series with the first one to increase the effective turns and therefore the Vout.
3. unwind the 500T secondary and make a new 1000T to replace it. (costly!)
4. What else can i try?

i wish i have a toroid but i dont so i am trying to make something work using a ferrite rod. it is the only thing readily available from where i am. toroids from pc psu are very small compared to what most of you are using. the biggest dia toroid i am able to get from a psu is roughly 3/4" or so outer dia. (yellow in color).
is there a thread dedicated for rod-equipped JT circuits that i can browse? rod does not produce a high pitch "whine" like a toroid does, but why is it that the toroid seems to be a better used material for JT experimenters and very minimal exploration on the rod idea?
tia for your help and clarifications.

[Belangers]

Rod vs. Toroid

Hi Jeanna, i used a toroid for my first JT but for the second one i used a ROD as i dont have access to a big toroid. what i noticed is when my trigger/primary bifilar coil was wound beside the 500T secondary, my LED off the C-E connection lit very dimly and same result when I move it to the secondary. when i transferred the trig/pri coil on top of the secondary coil (can't even remember how many turns i did, i think 3T for base and 7T or 8T for the collector) i managed to measure 120Vac output from the secondary coil with a 1.5V AA input/source. i tried 2x1.5V AA and i got 230Vac max. not yet enough for a CFL or fluoro tube and my 2n3055 transistor gets hot so to the extent possible i'd like to stick to a single 1.2V-1.5V AA source.
i think in order to increase the Vout further, i can do one or a combination of the following:
1. reduce the number or turns of the trigger/pri coil so the transformation ratio increases (??)
2. wind another secondary and connect in series with the first one to increase the effective turns and therefore the Vout.
3. unwind the 500T secondary and make a new 1000T to replace it. (costly!)
4. What else can i try?

i wish i have a toroid but i dont so i am trying to make something work using a ferrite rod. it is the only thing readily available from where i am. toroids from pc psu are very small compared to what most of you are using. the biggest dia toroid i am able to get from a psu is roughly 3/4" or so outer dia. (yellow in color).
is there a thread dedicated for rod-equipped JT circuits that i can browse? rod does not produce a high pitch "whine" like a toroid does, but why is it that the toroid seems to be a better used material for JT experimenters and very minimal exploration on the rod idea?
tia for your help and clarifications.

The toroid isn't any better than a rod, nor is it any more efficient. The Toroid self cancels when wound, so, you have to make the rod wound oppositely to get the correct effect from primary to secondary coil. So, if you stand the rod on end, the secondary I wind first, starting from the top and wind clockwise downward, then, start the primary over the top of the secondary, counter clockwise from the top of the rod. If you wind them the same way, even if you change the polarity, it usually doesn't work, and, if it does, you will certainly experience a heated transistor.. this is what I have obtained in my experience using Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 2.0 and 3.0 on a straight ferrite rod. He states that it is wound the same way, but, when I looked at the schematics, they clearly show that they are wound oppositely and the phase marks are I believe opposite. I used a 2N3055 with his circuits and have had great success , as well, they didn't whine like his, I am finding they whine and squeal when you use an LED bulb like his, and you will get less noise if you use an antenna bar about 3-4 inches long with a CFL. Once you get it working, don't play with it too much because the 2N3055 isn't very resistant to spikes and if you connect or disconnect causing a flash, out will go the 2n3055 and that's it, no good anymore. He does state that if it doesn't work you can change the polarity to start it working, again, I do not recommend this if you are tight on cash and wish to have a working transistor when done. It is wise to use the AC Neon to preserve the transistor from back emf as well. Just food for thought anyway. The circuit above looks great, it would be much better if they literally did draw out the schematic diagram of the coil instead of A+ A- B+ B- and then C on the other side. If you ask me, A & B are Bifilar, wound the same way side by side, and C+ & C- are wound opposite as the bifilar are the primary and the other is the secondary needing to be wound the opposite direction if they are done on a ferrite antenna bar/rod.

Good Luck!

Marc

[mahlag'ash]

about the hendershot fuel less generator

sorry if i go back to the Hendershot fuel less generator
something is miss with is the voltage, with the original one drawn LJ H the capacitors were 40- 80uF 450Volt, but with new one shown in the video guide it says only two 500uF and four 100uF no mention about voltages. please help

[xee2]

Hi guys,

I am a 17 year old high schooler who is very new to all of this. I have built a joule thief (from a kit) that can power 1-2 LEDs off a AA battery. However, I am looking for a way to do two things.

1. Recharge a NiMH battery off a low current/voltage FAST and efficently.

And more importantly:

2. Power a small LED lamp brightly using that recharged AA NiMH battery.

I'm stuck more on the second part. Can someone please clarify: what makes a joule thief more powerful? Does using a larger ferrite toroid help? or should I use more turns? or a more powerful transistor? Please answer ASAP if you can because more likely than not, I'm working on it right now! thank you Energetic Forum!

To get more power out, you need to put more power in. This means increasing the transistor collector current. This is done by using a smaller base resistor. I have a lot of examples you may find helpful at xee2vids on youtube. The transformer needs to be able to work without saturating else it will limit the output power; there are ways to specify this but I suggest you just experiment with different materials. In general, bigger cores will handle more power.

[gmaijoe]

Help??

Hi guys,

I am a 17 year old high schooler who is very new to all of this. I have built a joule thief (from a kit) that can power 1-2 LEDs off a AA battery. However, I am looking for a way to do two things.

1. Recharge a NiMH battery off a low current/voltage FAST and efficently.

And more importantly:

2. Power a small LED lamp brightly using that recharged AA NiMH battery.

I'm stuck more on the second part. Can someone please clarify: what makes a joule thief more powerful? Does using a larger ferrite toroid help? or should I use more turns? or a more powerful transistor? Please answer ASAP if you can because more likely than not, I'm working on it right now! thank you Energetic Forum!

[Watson]

where do these come from:

Thanks.

It's not so much wher ethey come from. It's that they cost a lot. Larger toroids may cost from a few dollars to many dollars, U.S., maybe even tens of dollars. I got some large toroids from BG Micro.

[Khwartz]

"Incorporating Heins Bi-Toroid Technology".

Wow! ekpod: Very Nice presentation of your your experiment; I would like any one on web could make it so clear

What about to used the breaks through of Thein Heintz, like made in this vid of a good friend in YouTube: "39A Don Smith Device Project: Incorporating Heins Bi-Toroid Technology". As it uses much back EFM it could make a interesting difference

Cheer, Khwartz.

[ekpod]

Toroidal Resonator Results

Hello Jeanna, Lidmotor and all... Included are the results from experiments on this resonator device.
The notes state that upon generating a spark gap, the base resistor will readily overheat.

[Djoko]

Blinking JT

Hi All,
Please help me, I try to replicate the BJT using 3055 & 20 mm diameter torroid to light up 3W LED Bulb, it just blinking.
Here is my vid.
Blinking JT ---- Need Help - YouTube

Thank a lot for your advice
Rgd
Djoko

[Khwartz]

Do care about that point? do you check it?

Hi and Happy new year to you!

I've seen many videos, including Lidmotors, but looks to me that something is not very seen and not really perfectly checked.

Using high frequencies, one increases ionisation phenomena and orders molecular oscillations (phonons) in the solid conductors or gas.

While doing this, we just drop down the resistance and THAT, could be taken for an a big surge of power, active power, while it's only an increase of passive power.

The other problem is that with high frequencies and very thin pics of voltage, normal measurement fails to give the real power or voltage nor currant, and any way, "power" as state just before, is not the right question, but "energy"!

So, I propose a very simple (and sheep because no need of expensive instruments! ) way to check if any real overunity or real Joules thief (some have merely done already but never as I could have seen until the end or completely):

Just make each time 2 experiments:

1. with the device need to be checked with the load, device powered by a battery,

2. without the device and directly powered by the battery with the same load.

in the tow case we just measure the time of complete discharge (if any discharge there is with the device ).

I know it's too simple and any body know well all this, but why so it's not really used? :/ Should be systematic and it's very standard process in laboratories, these kind of double test...

Up to you to follow my proposition but it could make everybody win precious time if we could immediacy know what really works or not as overunity systems, what do you think?

cheers.

[rooster]

Thanks none the less Lidmotor

I try replicating it this weekend.

Thanks again.

[Lidmotor]

The "Halo Light" circuit

Hi,

I know that I'm very late to the party, but could anyone help with a copy of the circuit to the Halo Light by Lidmotor. I'm trying to duplicate his circuit.

Thanks in Advance

Here is the circuit for the "Halo Light". I have used this thing many times but I eventually altered it to a simpler design. I completely abandoned the second battery and charging part of the circuit. It is really no better that a store bought fluorescent camping light now but I enjoy using something that I built. The whole project was fun and many people were involved. Ash took the idea and developed it further into a light, fan, and Bedini charger.

http://www.energeticforum.com/attachments/renewable-energy/2423d1236616227-big-joule-theif-555-jt-switches.jpg

Lidmotor

[rooster]

Halo Light Circuit by Lidmotor

Hi,

I know that I'm very late to the party, but could anyone help with a copy of the circuit to the Halo Light by Lidmotor. I'm trying to duplicate his circuit.

Thanks in Advance

[SkyWatcher]

Hi kooler, thanks for the link, I have been to that thread in the past, though never studied it well enough.
I've been testing your more basic bwjt with led off primary flyback and it works well also. Also tried my ferrite toroid using a secondary which seems to draw more current.
I seem to recall you had a circuit to feedback to the battery also, i will try that also.
I'm lighting a white led at 1.34 volts AA nimh probably half brightness using .1 uf capacitor,
mpsA92 300 volt pnp high voltage transistor that works very well with a 10k resistor. Not sure the amp draw cause i blew the fuse in my meter. Though amp draw is low since battery is flipping between 1.343 and 1.344 volts for a long time now.
peace love light
Tyson

[kooler]

hey
this is when i first posted it..
BWJT

in the video that i have the cfl in the dark..
it uses this circuit on a small flyback coil..
it uses high freq to do its job 106 khz and up..
so steel and iron powered core dont do the best..
the kool part of this circuit is that the freq is the same ..
ex; 106khz at 100ma's all the the way down to 2 ua's
just change the cap to get the freq, up or down..
theres alot of ways to build this..
glad you like it.. ..

robbie