Big Joule Theif

[morpher44]

towards self powering...

The Joule Thief is ALMOST self running and the battery can
possibly be removed and replaced by power pulled from
the VLF and AM radio spectrum ... and air coils are the
way to go for that ... with high Q.

I think it would be most impressive to make a Joule Thief that
runs on NO batteries.

As part of my Hendershot investigations, I've come
across the "Utilities Engine" described in appendix B
of Barry Hilton's book
"Secrets of Perpetual Power, Hendershot Mystery"
Secrets of Perpetual Power - Hendershot Mystery by Barry Hilton
I wound a coil that is similar to that circuit.
Tonight I had the interesting idea of hooking this
air coil to a Joule Thief.

The cylinder has 3 sections D1, D2 and D3.
D1 is the center coil and D2 and D3 are above and
below it.
The Joule thief is connected to D2 and D3
leaving the center coil *unused*.

This Utilities Engine article claims that the RF
received from the circuit presented can power
a specially constructed motor.
When the motor gets going, the EMF it produces
feeds back into the receiver ... providing
regenerative feedback.

It seems to me, that if this could be done way back
in the 1950s or so ... certainly
we can self-power a Joule Thief using a similar approach.

Passing this along in case others want to experiment
with Joule Thief's with Air-Coils!!!

[blackchisel97]

Vtech thanks a lot man , do you have a better quality version? if so ill upload it into the document with your credits my friend thanks for doing this, please send to [email protected]

I just mailed to you


Vtech

[jeanna]

Hello all.
I have added a 2nd coil to the circuit.have gotten some good results sofar....
.....If anyone is interested I'll draw a diagram of this with part numbers.Tec

Nice job tec!

I think you will find that you can add a lot more leds even than that. With that toroid maybe even a neon which would prove 100volts.

I have been discovering that when you have a pulse in the line ( which you do because of the basic joule thief) that you can keep adding more and more lights by adding more inductors in series with the pulses.

Keep trying to add to this.
My latest result is 30 leds in series in 5 different output circuits all using the same pulses from one basic joule thief.
I think this is very important.
I am glad to see you (someone else beyond me) is doing something like this!

If you can add a schematic, it would be fun to compare mine with what you are doing.

thank you,

jeanna

[ashtweth]

Hi Ash.

I hope you don't mind me "cleaning" your schematics a bit I removed unnecessary "dots" and put missing ones in place. There are two caps, marked at pF range, which I believe was a mistake. I put (what I believe) correct values.





Vtech

Vtech thanks a lot man , do you have a better quality version? if so ill upload it into the document with your credits my friend thanks for doing this, please send to [email protected]

[Inquorate]

How to hook it up

Thank you Inquorate,



This, but in the opposite direction is my overall aim at the moment. [= With a given frequency, how do I make the right inductor, or inductor/capacitor choice for best output.]
I am too new to electronics to be able to see the application, but I could try something like this, if I could understand how to use and where to connect it to my circuit.

I have purchased a LC meter so at least I know what the inductance is when I make, or use a coil.

Your drawing reminds me of a crystal radio.
I do have one of those, and since there are NO AM radio stations near me, I can use it without interference from them, but again, I do not know how to hook it up to my circuit.

thank you,

jeanna

Just attach the aerial to a metal plate and put the plate near the circuit

Pronine Electronics Design - LC Resonance Calculator
Pronine Electronics Design - Single-Layer Air Coil Calculator

Online calculators are great if you're as bad at math as me

[blackchisel97]

I hope you don't mind

Hi Ash.

I hope you don't mind me "cleaning" your schematics a bit I removed unnecessary "dots" and put missing ones in place. There are two caps, marked at pF range, which I believe was a mistake. I put (what I believe) correct values.





Vtech

[blackchisel97]

bypass cap

Terminal (5) of 555 is an input of internal comparator, which can be used as control voltage. If the pin is not used, it should be bypassed to the ground (1), with a capacitor of about 0.01uF (10nF) for immunity to noise.


Vtech

[ashtweth]

Hi Watson, thanks a lot for the feedback my friend!, here is the new one as per requested
Imageshack - panaceajoulethiefschema

One thing tho, bypass capacitor - does the capacitor go across pins 8 and 1, or pins 5 and 1? And what capacitor value do you recommend?

Ash

[jeanna]

Thank you Inquorate,

but could help you determine the best frequencies to make your LC circuits resonate at for best results.

This, but in the opposite direction is my overall aim at the moment. [= With a given frequency, how do I make the right inductor, or inductor/capacitor choice for best output.]
I am too new to electronics to be able to see the application, but I could try something like this, if I could understand how to use and where to connect it to my circuit.

I have purchased a LC meter so at least I know what the inductance is when I make, or use a coil.

Your drawing reminds me of a crystal radio.
I do have one of those, and since there are NO AM radio stations near me, I can use it without interference from them, but again, I do not know how to hook it up to my circuit.

thank you,

jeanna

[Inquorate]

Joule thief LC circuits

@ jeanna - vortex just pointed me to your youtube videos, and I noticed you are pulsing a variety of different inductors, causing a cacaphony of broadband RF frequencies.

This is the secret IMHO to unlocking 'extra' energy, and should cause a temperature drop.

I also noticed you are using LC tank circuits as repeaters, to inject more energy back into your system to light more LED's.

And that you are doing this via trial and error (the best way, and most fun).

The following is something I've been working on for a while; it's come together in theory in the last day.

YouTube - poor man's spectrum analyser theory of operation

it's been designed for dr Stiffler's sec, but could help you determine the best frequencies to make your LC circuits resonate at for best results.

Love and light

[jeanna]

So Ren,

I hope you can try it and let us know.

Actually, maybe I can try this while I wait for better magnets for my bedini motor.

In that case I will let you know.
But, do try this as well.
Experiments are so much more fun than theories.



jeanna

[ren]

Thanks for the info Jeanna.

I will admit the biggest hole in my theory at the moment is just how well a solar panel will pick up the light. I also thought a fluro could be used in this config because of its 360 degree projection of light, thus allowing a solar panel to be placed on one side and still have useable light. In the past when I have done this it was possible to get some out from the solar panel, but no way near enough to supplement the 12v input I had at the time.

Which led me towards minimum input methods.

One thing these LEDs do have going for them is they are focused, which doesnt leave much room for external output, but will allow me to see just how powerful they are in projecting ALL their light onto the panel.

Regards

[jeanna]

I see you say you are working on a Bedini style charger, let us know if we can be of assistance. Ive built a few in my time, as have many here. It can be a drama getting it to kick over the first time, and is often the simplest of mistakes. I have a large unit up my sleeve at the moment, its going to be interesting to see it up and running.

Thanks... I may

Looks like I will have to have a stab at this myself. Jeanna, have you ever tried a string of LEDs on the secondary? I assume you would have to have quite a few. The LEDs I have lit with Dr Stifflers circuit kick any fluros equivalent output in the butt as far as intensity goes.

Yes, I have. Are you asking about a string as in christmas lights?
They are heavily protected from surges and light up very dimly with a joule thief unless you take out the current/voltage blockers. I found one 1N4007 at each end of a 70led string last spring. eesh.
It is much easier to just make the string, I think.

With the latest video I show 16 in one string but 30 all together in 5 separate strings, which is what I was aiming to do. These are all in series but in different 'circuits' within the same pulse system.
I could have made these much brighter using a bigger toroid, but I purposely miniaturized it for convenience. It is easily expandable.

In February, or back a while and memory is cluttered now, a bunch of us tried to get a solar panel to recharge a AA from leds. They seemed to be not as bright to the panel even though they seem plenty bright to the eyes.
The other real advantage to using the fluorotube for recharging efforts is that you can put the panel behind the tube to absorb the light and still use the light to read.

I am glad you are going to try this.

Xee2 made a much simpler version than mine on that same toroid and he claims that a 2T,10T 80T joule thief turned on a 15w or was it 4 w tube. [I have not replicated that]

For ease of explanation, we agreed on a name system that goes like this...
2T, the first term is the base coil or the winding connected to the base
10T, the second term is the collector coil
80T this 3rd term is the number of turns on the secondary.

Thank you,

jeanna

[ren]

Hi ren,
Hi everybody,

I know a few of you great people have seen my work at overunity and youtube.

I would like to reply to this, especially since I have been working on a bedini circuit for the last bunch o days.

It is easy to light one or even 2 fluoro tubes from a camera circuit.
Without gadgetmall's mods, this seems to run down my battery in 2 hours.

I find it more satisfying to make my own toroids, and, so, after I lit a pair of tubes (26 watts total) with a camera circuit in january, I worked at making the right kind of toroid etc. by hand.

I NEVER use the primary joule thief and everything I do ALWAYS comes from the secondary.

I forget the date but I think in june, I managed to light a straight 18 inch 15 watt grow light fluoro tube.
The trick was that I needed to get over 400v in this case 450volts .
The pulses went down as the volts went up (I find this is a normal thing) and they went to 5.6kHz. definitely audible.

This was with a very large toroid (3.25") and 240 turns on the secondary. There was plenty of room for more turns, but I had planned this number . Anyway, it worked. I only need to connect it up and snap a neo onto one lead for the light to go on. I can then remove the neo.
This light stays on for 5 1/4 hours. It goes out when the battery is at 1.1v.

Later, I lit a 4 watt fluoro tube with another hand wound toroid. This had 411v and about the same frequency, but the toroid was much smaller. I do not know why I couldn't get the bigger lights to start. They almost did, but only the 4 watt would start. I have put this circuit aside but it might only be that I was using a AAA instead of a AA. In any case the length of light was umm 2 hours or less and that is, of course, because the light was a AAA with 750mAH rating.

I have not tried to charge a solar panel with the light but I can't imagine it would be far off, but I am not into that aspect, so if you are... go for it.
I will get my other computer up so I can let you see the 2 toroids with fluoro tubes. [OK I did it].

Here is my youtube channel for anyone interested.

hmm that took it straight off my clipboard. just in case, I will simply paste it:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jeannacav&search_type=&aq=f

jeanna

Hi Jeanna,

Ive seen some of your work before. Thanks for replying. I like the look of that large toroid. I have one at home, I will give it a shot sometime. Yes I think that even the fluro would be enough in some circumstances.

I see you say you are working on a Bedini style charger, let us know if we can be of assistance. Ive built a few in my time, as have many here. It can be a drama getting it to kick over the first time, and is often the simplest of mistakes. I have a large unit up my sleeve at the moment, its going to be interesting to see it up and running.

Looks like I will have to have a stab at this myself. Jeanna, have you ever tried a string of LEDs on the secondary? I assume you would have to have quite a few. The LEDs I have lit with Dr Stifflers circuit kick any fluros equivalent output in the butt as far as intensity goes.

Regards

[morpher44]

fisherprice

I saw where morpher44 made a rodin coil from a tuna can. I am glad to see I wouldn't have to buy a fisherprice donut to wind a toroid!.
jeanna

Yeah... I almost did. Went to target and stood their looking at them.
How embarrassing!!. And pricy.
I'de rather smell like a fish!!