If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Here's what it looks like... the LV side is made from two banks of
4x 250v 22uf in parallel. I've not yet tried the battery setup as shown
previously in my last post.
One of the 12v batteries I've got might have a bit of sulfation, and
this came to mind. The LV cap would see a little extra wouldn't it?
Leave a comment:
Guest replied
motor performance pics
This is the motor constructed with a 1600ft 30g coil. The drag present
from the bolts isn't a huge amount, the LV caps are currently two 4 x 250v
22uf banks in parallel and it will spin quite a few times on a single
burst. The voltage pic is from spinning it by hand.
Leave a comment:
Guest replied
It seems as though a momentary gap in 12v to the inverter would
cause it to shut down....
Leave a comment:
Guest replied
success & difficulty
It seems that the previous malfunctions my system was experiencing with
charging up the LV-side are no longer an issue. The system is working,
with the SCR I might add, the gate hooked to 120VDC through a 5K resistor.
While it is indeed working, there is still a serious glitch. With the
output going into the (-) battery post also hooked to the inverter, once
fired it will throw a voltage warning on the inverter and cause it to
shut down.
I've tried sending the output through the (+) side as well with an identical
result, as well as attaching 6A 1KV blocking diodes to the (-) inverter cable
pointing towards the battery to block any spikes - also with the same result.
What could I do to prevent this from happening? Attach a DC voltage regulator
in between the battery and inverter, or perhaps construct a battery swapper?
Concerning the use of an SCR diode, the following is what I've been able to
gather from its datasheet. In the case there is an error, anyone please feel free
to offer a correction.
...
Leave a comment:
Guest replied
glad to help
With 120V in, two 450v 4.7uf inline with 160ohms
of 10 10ohm 10w and 3 20ohm 15w does the trick.
That's an intriguing motor, I'm unfamiliar with how they are
constructed... unless you are referring to what is commonly thought
of as a Newman Motor design with the coils above and below
the extents the magnetic driveshaft.
I've found that the manner in which wirewound power resistors are
connected in series allows each of them to dissipate a certain amount
of energy depending on the supply voltage and their ohm value.
The lower your total ohm value, the quicker your plasma discharge
capacitor(s) will recharge.
The amperage rating of your 120V input diode must comply with
however much your resistors are drawing.
Thank you for reply,
The thing about newmans in my setup is about wire to be used not the engine design, he make some tests and find out that tinned copper wire is far more magnetically efficient.
Im not sure about engine, it either may be magnetic piston or magnetic repulsion, depending on my (lack of) abillity to calculate components for eds tube power supply,
i sow aaron setup on yt, im optimistic about it, but i think ill have problem with perfecting it- to make great discharges constant not only observable, to increase and stabilize frequency. AND IM REALLY WONDERING HOW IS HE DOING
Thank you once again,
It seems that the way in which I've been harvesting the output from my
previous method of pulsing 12V into a voltage boosting circuit was then
inefficient... Perhaps revisited this may turn out to allow operation
of the LV power supply unit without further utilizing inverter technology.
Yes, I think that bridge issue was a problem for you.
The diagram is looking much better!
Just a couple things - the third point rod that goes to the inductor,
you should not have that tied directly to ground and the inductor at the
same time.
If it is to ground, you're going to be taking most everything straight to
ground - just grounding it out since that is the lowest path to ground
and it is a solid ground.
You 'could' put a small gap as an overshoot protection there but I wouldn't
make it a solid connection there - that is where you could put your
gap box.
If you battery has a common ground to the rest of the circuit, then
conceptually it should work. However, I really would not worry about any
recovery at this point - I'd do this:
Leave a comment: