Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[crackahcrackah]

I just wanted to quickly jump in here as it's late. I too have replicated Imhotep's radiant oscillating circuit. I have been able to light a standard ~17W bulb (34 as he says). Out of curiosity, of course, I wanted to try this with other gas filled bulbs. I'm happy to say that this technique WILL light other gas filled bulbs, namely a 1000w high pressure sodium HPS bulb. The light is weak and blue in the HPS tube which is a tube within the bulb. I have made videos and when I get the chance I'll post them (probably on the pirate's bay where things AREN'T censored). I think upping the voltage may result in better performance but I have very little time to experiment with this. I'll check back when I get the chance and post more info. (can I link multiple car coil's in series or will that destroy the second in the series?? I haven't noticed any one mentioning stepping things up further, sorry if I missed it)

Some one on bob boyce's "working water car" forum on yahoo is working on picosecond PWM board's which are exhibiting the massive energy flux Tesla associated w/ rapid on/off switching. So keep up the work in that direction guys. It's all about the dV/dT. There's also a good paper posted by someone on the forum by Zaev N.E., "Inductive conversion of heat environmental energy to electrical energy" from New Energy Technologies Issue #1 January-February 2002, p.40 . This paper has excellent info going into this rapid energy flux associated w/ coil's and rapid switching.

Best regards

[Bodkins]

Hi Hoppy.

I found that you can use a cap, but any sort of recovery is lost when it is in the circuit. I havent tried all caps however so maybe there is something I missed

In regards to your comment on light quality are you aware of the different types of CFL's? Some are specifically stated as being "white light" and perhaps that is why you have that appearance on yours. My 20w one is fairly yellow when glowing

What you saying ren recovery from the sinkcap is lost?
Ive had a bulb go dim and orange from a overnight onewire setup

@nat was thinking the same with the two plate stuff cool need to study your finding.
wait a minute the setup you have has a possible two ground connections try copper and zinc/steel. tuning going to be hard. try different part on the setup. just an idea you never know!!!!!
@lidmotoor Mr 555 lol sink bigger surface area needed more charging?
@Mart energy transmition? Tesla
@hoppy I can connect a 100K resistor in the HV lamp circuit and it has no effect on the brightness; it seems to simply sweep over the resistor.
i had that too with the volt meters.

[Agongon]

Lidmotor: " This is great. Anyway I got a 555 timer circuit modified in a way to work the CFLs without using anything else ". I like this one too. It's becoming compact, miniaturized. The next item to work on, I guess, is to measure the amount of illumination for comparison with the works of other people. Thanks for your video. It helps me a lot in my thinking about 555 timer circuit because of its simplicity.

[nat1971a]

Clearer circuit

[Lidmotor]

555 timer circuit for CFL light

Wow!!

More and more people are joining in here. This is great. Anyway I got a 555 timer circuit modified in a way to work the CFLs without using anything else. It is pretty neat to watch do it's thing. I had to change the circuit from the one I tried yesterday that fried 2 chips. This one works as long as you keep the transistor cooled. Still may need that optoisolator Ren.

Thanks to everyone who is running with this idea. This is neat stuff.

Here is the 555 timer video---

YouTube - Lidmotor 555 Timer CFL Light

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[nat1971a]

Circuit attached

[nat1971a]

YouTube - BEDINI IMHOTEP BODKINS REPLICATION UPDATE2


Following in the footsteps of Tesla.....

I have since confirmed that the SCR circuit that is driving the second ignition coil must be working as i disconnected the positive of the ignition coil and the light stopped.

Also when i touch the aluminum plates they make a resonating noise. Not sure what to make of that...any ideas? hope i am not generating xrays or something

I would just like to formally congratulate everyone for making this possible.

Cheers

Nat

[theremart]

Good stuff Hoppy. Ive been wondering if anyone had got their setup to be blanketed in HV. I had mine setup the other day and every piece of metal on the board had a little zing about it. I got a nice shock from the end of my coil that goes into my fan, which wasnt even hooked up to any other part of the circuit at the time! Go figure. The whole length of the metal stand for the light would give the smallest arcs if touched. The frequency would change and the light would alter. Another path to a sink I guess. When the circuit was corrected the effect went away, or diminished. There is a certain geometrical/volume element involved, down to the choice of wire used, where and how it is layed, and what it sinks into.

Exactly what I experienced, as I posted. It is like my old farm electric fence charger. My next goal is to see what is the best charging to target battery.

Mart

[ren]

Good stuff Hoppy. Ive been wondering if anyone had got their setup to be blanketed in HV. I had mine setup the other day and every piece of metal on the board had a little zing about it. I got a nice shock from the end of my coil that goes into my fan, which wasnt even hooked up to any other part of the circuit at the time! Go figure. The whole length of the metal stand for the light would give the smallest arcs if touched. The frequency would change and the light would alter. Another path to a sink I guess. When the circuit was corrected the effect went away, or diminished. There is a certain geometrical/volume element involved, down to the choice of wire used, where and how it is layed, and what it sinks into.

[Hoppy]

Hi Ren

Yes, you are right about the recovery. I've found that it's a trade off between light output and charging.

Your description of decent light is how I would describe my output. It's OK for emergency lighting and bedtime reading. My lamps did work with a yellowish glow on the mains but are brilliant white with the HV.

I'm using just one ign coil and increasing voltage up to 30V does increase brightness and current of course but not enough to justify the additional current drain IMO.

I have found that when my system is off-tune working at an audible frequency with the lamps dimmed, the HV permeates everything, even the wire insulation on my croc leads. However, when tuned at high frequency, the HV reduces considerably and I can touch the wires without getting shocked. Its as if the lamps are reducing the back pressure by absorbing the energy and inreasing in brightness. I can connect a 100K resistor in the HV lamp circuit and it has no effect on the brightness; it seems to simply sweep over the resistor.

Hoppy

[ren]

Hi Hoppy.

I found that you can use a cap, but any sort of recovery is lost when it is in the circuit. I havent tried all caps however so maybe there is something I missed

In regards to your comment on light quality are you aware of the different types of CFL's? Some are specifically stated as being "white light" and perhaps that is why you have that appearance on yours. My 20w one is fairly yellow when glowing.

I can get decent light @12v 200ma. By decent I mean if there is no other light in the vicinity I could switch it on and have enough light to solder/function @24v 300ma its almost bright enough to illuminate the entire room. Its one of the hurdles I guess, not being able to accurately gauge everyones indivdual light output. Ive had the thing glowing on less than 2 watts and while it is efficient in the energy it uses, its not that useful for anything besides a night light. And anyway, a little higher amp draw translates into better charging as well. Im using two ignition coils BTW.

[Hoppy]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/QUOTE]


@ gmeat

I get about the same result connecting to supply neg as I do to an earth rod. The supply neg or earth rod is better than the coil neg.

I have found that the Ign coil primary needs to be carefully tuned with a cap to get maximum brightness. I'm currently using 0.22uF.

@ Bodkins

I heven't yet tried collecting energy in a cap in the earth line and will be trying this next.

Hoppy

[Bodkins]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/QUOTE]

What a great idea Gary! bulb - to coil -
going to try it with the sinkcap setup.
you try it. charging the two batterys cool!

Sleep bodkins

[gmeat]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.[/quote]


Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary

[Bodkins]

Imhotep Peter you here?
starting to question if im going down the right path with this?