Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hi Imhotep
I have substituted my neon with a new one with a resistor in series,and used a new transistor(2N3055).Seems that the weel runs better and it charge caps very fast,but disconnecting the battery source, I able to glow only one pole of the neon, only when the pot is at the maximum resistance and at very low rpm of the weel;then when the weel accellerates,the glow disappear.What happen?

i have noticed that when the neon glows it only hits the hv on the collector side of the neon , i believe because the other side is at ground potential ,im not sure why? on my fans there is a tipping point on some, not all of them where the neon no longer glows and the rpms increases people call that tweaking the fan (rick balances his fans to draw the least amount of current while still giving spikes or neon pulses to the charge battery) it depends on what you want to achieve with you fan ,work (air flow or charge ) de-sulfating which is called conditioning the cell .
if you just want reduced current draw then adjust for no neon glow. if you want maximum charge make the neon glow as much as possible.
i am not sure what you mean by disconnecting the battery source? did you mean the charge battery ?
if you mean the charge battery then that is why you get the neon pulses . when the charge battery is connected the neon will not glow. because the battery is absorbing the spikes.

[Philosopher]

Hi Imhotep
I have substituted my neon with a new one with a resistor in series,and used a new transistor(2N3055).Seems that the weel runs better and it charge caps very fast,but disconnecting the battery source, I able to glow only one pole of the neon, only when the pot is at the maximum resistance and at very low rpm of the weel;then when the weel accellerates,the glow disappear.What happen?

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hi everybody, I'm new both to this forum and whole free energy business and I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but from what I see in this thread, there sure must be some true in it.

I'm planning to attempt to build this motor, but I have no neon bulb. I have no credit card so I can't order it from e-bay, and I just can't find it in local electronics stores. Is there a way around it? Perhaps a strong resistor or something?

The other thing that was bothering me was the fact that although this Bedini motor produces more power than it consumes it can't charge the battery it is drawing power from, but it can charge some other more than it consumes from the first. So why hasn't anybody tried to include a mechanism that will switch from one battery to another every couple of hours? Those cheap Made in China alarm clocks use so small amounts of energy they can run for years on a single battery, just cut off minute and second hands so that they are not in the way and leave only the hour hand. Place two contacts on opposite sides of the dial and one on the hand itself and you're done. Just add some more wiring and you have a mechanism that will switch the powering and charging batteries every six hours.

Or I could be wrong...

Ok lets start with the neon, If you read back you will see that the neon is merely a protection for the transistor from the voltage spikes when you remove the charge battery, IF the fan is still running. So there is a workaround if you cannot get a neon. Simply make sure you have the charge battery connected when you start the fan and stop the fan before you remove. You have to have somewhere for the spikes to go. If you dont they will go towards the transistor junctions and blow them up. Not good. So just a very simple workaround. And the neon also gives you a visual indication of the hv spikes.

As for your timer idea. Anything is possible and I have to say that its very original and the great thing about the fan is its very simple and leaves room to grow. So try whatever you want and report back and let us know how it goes, whether it works or not.

Welcome to the forum. Make sure you take some time and read through all the post in each thread. Theres a gold mine of information here and a great group of inventors and scientist here to help you with your experiments. Most importantly relax and have fun. When your relaxed you open your creative side of the mind and can move mountains.

[dodo]

Hi everybody, I'm new both to this forum and whole free energy business and I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but from what I see in this thread, there sure must be some true in it.

I'm planning to attempt to build this motor, but I have no neon bulb. I have no credit card so I can't order it from e-bay, and I just can't find it in local electronics stores. Is there a way around it? Perhaps a strong resistor or something?

The other thing that was bothering me was the fact that although this Bedini motor produces more power than it consumes it can't charge the battery it is drawing power from, but it can charge some other more than it consumes from the first. So why hasn't anybody tried to include a mechanism that will switch from one battery to another every couple of hours? Those cheap Made in China alarm clocks use so small amounts of energy they can run for years on a single battery, just cut off minute and second hands so that they are not in the way and leave only the hour hand. Place two contacts on opposite sides of the dial and one on the hand itself and you're done. Just add some more wiring and you have a mechanism that will switch the powering and charging batteries every six hours.

Or I could be wrong...

[theremart]

Hi..

So for those that have this working, especially anyone with good results, what are your tuning measurements like?

I'm trying to figure what we should be tuning for volts/current/dc resistance on both input and output sides.
Without a scope to see the high frequency spikes it is a little hard to figure out what is ideal.
Most current on the out side?
Most voltage on the out side?
Least current draw on the source side?
Highest audible frequency ring from the coils?
Fastest fan(highly doubt as that is when the pulse is off).
I know brightest neon glow is supposed to be how to tune it but it is very hard to tell and if we are really supposed to match the DC Resistance of the load, the neon is out when the load is attached, so there must be another way.

I try to tune for the fastest rise in charging voltage. So... I just test and test and test.. till I find something that works, results do vary.

[ashanin]

I'm tuning fan circuit with high voltage cap (2000V 40uF). Changing base resistance cause changing in voltage across the cap.

[WoollyNZ]

Re: Tuning

First off Big thanks To All.

Ok this may help,

DaftMan has a Neon between Supply - and the + Charging battery.

I've tried this and it lights when I'm using 12v where as before I had to go over 14v to get a flicker out of a neon between the Collector and the Emitter. (this is with the 90v neon between the Collector and the Emitter)

With the 50V 2200uF cap I wondered where all the energy went inside the meter. Inside the meter is a large wire designed for it. (I assume the energy from the cap got dissipated as heat)

I've bought some banana plugs, so I can add probe clips so I can test a bit more to see whats going on.

I tried putting a 3v DC motor with fan on the output. With diode from the Collector, it starts but dies. So then I tried from the Collector itself, and it really started to fly (need to adjust the pot(Variable resistor)).

So I thought I should test the Volts and Amps, Volts were about 4.3v but when I tried the amps they blew the fuse in the meter (Go figure and I thought the 50V cap would blow the fuse, I've got 6 more fuses now). Also depending on the pot (variable resistor) the ATX PSU will shut down (I think it's built this way). The DC 3V motor on the 3.3V line on a ATX PSU does the same thing.

Questions?
I have access to a USB DAQ (5V) is it possible to use this as a scope (Through some divisive (is that a word?) resistance)?
How's the best way to use this 50v 2200uF cap?
(I'm well wary of these, Ok I've been discharging it on a HDD Platter, I love the sparks, it's like a Welder) Is this the best way of discharging caps? (The ones I've seen blow, put out the purple smoke have been in computers, interesting to watch but not great for productivity, when we all had to go to the pub for the rest of the afternoon, it was horrible)
What does C20 of the source mean? (many thanks)

All the best

[ren]

There are various ways to tune these fans. Imhotep posted earlier of one method , monitoring the neon globe as you vary resistance. I think you will find these fans run pretty good at most settings. I would tune for highest RPM at least current draw. Up it all the way if you like till you hit your C20 of the source.

[mikkyo]

So for those that have this working, especially anyone with good results, what are your tuning measurements like?

I'm trying to figure what we should be tuning for volts/current/dc resistance on both input and output sides.
Without a scope to see the high frequency spikes it is a little hard to figure out what is ideal.
Most current on the out side?
Most voltage on the out side?
Least current draw on the source side?
Highest audible frequency ring from the coils?
Fastest fan(highly doubt as that is when the pulse is off).
I know brightest neon glow is supposed to be how to tune it but it is very hard to tell and if we are really supposed to match the DC Resistance of the load, the neon is out when the load is attached, so there must be another way.

[**~Imhotep~**]

i did have one lcd clock that as an experiment i charged the battery for 240 seconds (got a little shock because i just held the wires on it ) that was weeks ago and it is still running .this effect is strange to be sure . thought i would share that info

[**~Imhotep~**]

i tell you big guy i am no expert at these fans at all ,bedini is .i can not hold a candle to his level of experience and genius. he is the master. i am the slave. if he says something please listen to him he is probably right. the only observations i have gathered on the fan project is this. pure voltage somehow conditions lead acid cells crystals to be smaller on the plates ,when he did the demonstration on his vid, the evidence is presented by one of bedini's movies that theremart linked to in another thread as far as other cells i have took alkaline cells, lithium ions,
zink carbon etc.. that were garbage and thru these voltage spikes in them and was able to get more service out of them. which shocked me . every one of these fans have different impedances on their coils as well as many different impedances on the batts .the current is low to nonexistent but it works for me anyway ,very puzzling, but that is my observations that i found .
go figure ? the only thing i know for sure is this effect is all over the place (big time) and it is up to each individual to ascertain if it works for them and how to maximize it for their particular situation.
i am just giving everyone a small base to start at and build from there. bedini;s bigger machines do a much beter job at this effect. ps i have my own understanding of what this effect is and why it happens but most people would not understand my take on it ,so i let them experiment and formulate that knowledge themselves then they learn by experimenting ,the decreased rpm and noise is backemf i believe ,not sure.
mine exibit the same effect and the spikes go up the louder my machines go.
i use a variable pwr supply for all charging , i sometimes run the batts for days to pump them up ,i try to get the most out of small batts because i have hundreds of battery operated remotes, mp3 players, mouse ,keyboards ,drills, saws .can openers. shavers it goes on and on because of the storms and power outages every year i went to batteries on every thing. so i spend hundreds of dollars yearly and so far this has helped not buy so many .
the radio shack where i get parts saw my movies and were impressed but i dont think they realized i would be buying less batts because of these fans hope the info helps
i have 5 other circuits that are going to raise alot more questions and shock most people .some with only 2 parts .

[elias]

I wonder

Imhotep,

Your work has been a great inspiration for us. I was wondering how could the high impedance of the coils in the fans charge the low impedance batteries? I personally built one of your units and it started spinning and as I adjusted the potentiometer to get my neon turned on, the fan decreased in speed and started making buzzing sound, The current to the charging battery was about 5-10 mA and the current draw was about 30-40mA, is this normal? Is this how it must behave? It doesn't push the batteries up immediately, but does it push them up in the long run? These are the questions I am dealing with right now, and I appreciate your input very much.

Here is a quote from John Bedini insisting on the fact that the impedance of the coils and cables affect the charging process:

From: "john_bedini"
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 8:57 AM
Subject: [Bedini_SG] An Answer To Marcus

Marcus,

The system consists of 24 1600 amp hour batteries, the box you see in the picture is a control manual switching box. the machine is constructed with 1" Plexiglas because everything interferes with the energy recovery. The load panel is lighting 1000 watts of light bulbs we have a maximum of 2.4 kw we can use, the coil arrangement is something that I can not talk about, the control is one device, as I said the coils must match the battery impedance within one mill-ohm impedance. the wire is number 6 ott stranded wire. the battery impedance is 1 mill-ohm on the square batteries and 3 mill-ohm on the round batteries, this is because of the plate difference in the cells, The big machine runs at 770 RPM, the multi pole small machine runs at about 2,500 RPM. The big machines input current is 10 amperes, the little machine 5 amps. I go by a standard voltage on the cells and only measure one cell at a time to tell the state of charge. I do not agree with Yo Tango on what is going on, applying AC to the batteries is not good idea and the battery does care what is on it's terminals. I can see that Yo Tango only understands the basic textbook concepts. I said that it looks like PWM, it is not, and it is not AC.

I measure the cells by differential equations I can tell you the state of charge from one moment to the next. We only use 10% of the big batteries at 1600 amp hrs. The batteries can deliver 210 amps at 24 volts continuous for 8 Hrs, running these batteries at 10 amps is way under their C20 discharge rate. The cores are welding rod as I have always used, if you use a neo magnet you saturate the core the trigger does not work right. We pull power from the primary cell while the machine is running charging the second battery bank. Marcus this is not about current charging the battery. All the battery books state you must supply electron current to the battery to charge it in a reverse mode, the battery does not need any electrons, so you can't put any more in them. If you put more electrons in the battery they just boil and each time you do it this they are dieing a slow death from heat you can not force the chemical reaction, you must lower the impedance of the battery to a state where it thinks it's charged, and it is charged. The mechanical power of this system is limited to 10%. The magnets are made by me and I can not go into that, but I can say that it is standard material. Look on the small machine you see that 1 amp light bulb, it is in series with the trigger signal this controls the impedance to the trigger coil, works like an old tube oscillator circuit. I also have went through all the post on the group, to determine what the confusion is, my answer later on this one. The duty cycle of these machines is 11% on input. The idea is to not burn up much input power, the return is way over 450 volts in tension across 1mill-ohm on the secondary batteries. The SG is just a simple energizer to get an understanding of what is taking place in the trigger and output. The next question you asked, why do I not tie the grounds together, because when you do that you have no hope of a unity system, it's known as a closed loop system, these systems run under unity and always will. Over Unity or unity systems are always open loop systems just like nature, as soon as the group learns this the light bulb will turn on. Ben has not chimed in but this is all about the impedance of the system. Marcus I got over what people think of me a long time ago. This group has been given more information on my systems , then anyone on the internet could ever hope for. I work on this system 24/7 without rest, so I should know what is going on in the system. The small scale systems need to be tuned just right to work in unity. I do not know what you are doing in your system so I reserve any comment. One last comment, The answer is all about the impedance in the cells, the lower the impedance the more power you can get from the cells, once again you can not put any electrons back into the battery, it already has what it needs. If you force electrons at it, it will boil away the water in the cells causing heat, heat will damage the process that takes place in the battery, each time you do this the battery will become weaker and weaker until it is useless. This is why their is a space under the cells so the damaged parts can fall off until they short out your battery.

John

Best Wishes
Elias

[**~Imhotep~**]

also remember that these fans charge up caps ,sometimes in 4 second 100 +volts ,use caution and they stay charged for a long time unless you discharge them

[**~Imhotep~**]

you can use (sometimes 9volt batts or small power supplies wall wart 12volt dc 300-500 millamp etc. to run untill you restore some batts.) some people use 15 watt solor cells . they can be run on many different types of sources .
i started with recycled fans and old stock parts i had from my business .use your imagination you will come up with a source power to test with.if you use multiple 1.5 volt run them in series to up the volts.

[Dingus]

I managed to find an old computer in my crawlspace, and I got two new fans out of it, and a few 200v 330uf caps. I managed to find all four wires and might have the thing built by tomorrow.

Also, since I don't quite have my 12v Lead-acid battery at my house right now, I was wondering if I could substitute it with 10 NiMH rechargeable batteries at 1.2v 2500mAh running in parallel? But they can't really hold a charge anymore. If not, I might have to wait until friday until I can use that battery.