Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[gotoluc]

gotoluc seems to be saying that when he cranks up the resistance, the fan speed increases.
ITF

@ITF,
thanks for taking the time to post your test results. One thing you mentioned above that is not correct!... like you I have observe exactly as you have observed, so please let me know where I said the above so I can edit it out.

You are correct about the DC Resistance of some fan motor coils being lower than 40 Ohms. I have a 120mm that is only 4.6 Ohms. However it is not giving me good results, so I did not mention it. I would consider re-coilling it but first I would like to know if anyone knows the ideal DC Resistance range. I must say that I am disappointed with the lack of participation or comments in this tread.

To all, I am bolding DC Resistance because some are using the term Impedance and from what I know and understand that is not the correct term to use if you are using your Ohm meter to measure your coils resistance. However I am very open to learning , so if anyone knows better please explain to let me know.

To all, again please share your findings if you have results in order to help everyone with better results.

Luc

[InTheField]

Finally some feedback/info...

Sorry I haven't posted anything in awhile, but I have been tuning and running the Bedini/Imhotep fan setup for at least a month now (built my first bedini/imhotep setup before actually joining the forums here). I have converted a single 80mm case fan and have a few 120mm case fans converted too...

Hi all,

I built this fan Bedini energizer and have noticed that the recommended 1K pot may not be enough. Have anyone else noticed this?

(findings snipped for brevity)
YES! I didn't have the recommended 2k pot on-hand, so I originally tossed in a 5k on the 80mm fan setup. I can crank it all the way up to 5k and it charges great. It will not start that way. It has to be started with the pot turned down to less than 4k and then turned up.

BUT, here's what I noticed. After first building it, I was not getting the over-charging as others had stated. I moved on and built my first 120mm fan setup figuring that something was wrong with the 80mm setup. What was wrong was my lack of patience! I tried Imhotep's description (& video) of running them in parallel from a single source to a single charge, but found that they were fighting each other. IOW, no matter how I tuned them, they weren't pulsing in resonance (together) and they were putting out different levels. That didn't surprise me too much between the 80mm and 120mm setup, but not being able to get two 120mm setups with the same components to tune together was surprising (& frustrating)! Soooo, I separated them. Single drive source, but using each fan setup to drive it's own charge load.

What I've noticed is that over time they're gaining efficiency. Not major gains, but ever so gradually. When I first built the 80mm setup, the neon would never give off more than a dull glow no matter where I set the pot. The 120mm setup made the neon GLOW! NOW, the 80mm setup (which I had run for nearly a week before building the first 120mm setup) lights up the neon a LOT more than the 120mm setup... and you can see the pulses perfectly. I had/have the 80mm setup and 120mm setups each charging 2 batteries in parallel. (4 batteries total) When I started this run a week ago, the 120mm was charging better than the 80mm, so I put two slightly discharged batteries on the 120mm setup and one slightly discharged along with a completely dead battery on the 80mm setup.

The 120mm charging batteries both started at ~11.2V. The 80mm charging batteries started with one at ~11.25V and the other at >1V... A few days ago, I was checking things and noticed that the 120mm charging batteries were at ~11.75V, BUT the 80mm charging batteries were at ~11.84V and ~6V! That's when I found that the 80mm setup could make the neon really shine... far surpassing the 120mm setup. So, I moved things around. Put all of the 11.75-11.84V batteries as the charge on the 120mm setup and put the (now) ~6V battery as the sole charge on the 80mm setup. So, I let that run for a day and went back to check. The 120mm setup had all three batteries at ~11.84V. The 80mm setup had that little battery at 44.6V!
I checked and rechecked... no, it wasn't holding the charge, but it was up there. Over the course of a few minutes, it dropped back to just over 6V (still up from before). So, I turned it all back on and came back about an hour later... over 40V again! (also discharged, but faster) I decided to put the other "dead" battery that I had originally started this experiment with (and "gave up on") in parallel on this setup. Checked after an hour or so and things were just "normal"... if you can call any of this "normal" Checked after a day and both of those batteries were at ~14.45V. They both discharged again, but as before, one is a little higher (~6.3V) and the other is up from a ~3V to nearly 6V... after discharging down from the initial 14V.

Use an ohm meter to make sure you have 40 to 80 ohms on each set of coils...

I know what the posts and directions have said, but I didn't get those values and my setups are both running... My 80mm setup had initial coil resistance of ~35-37ohms... the 120mm setup had initial coil resistance of >10ohms... I haven't checked the impedance recently.

Bedini's machines use low impedance coils for charging batteries, higher the impedance of the coils, the slower the output battery charges, I don't understand how Imhotep has been able to fast charge his batteries, with the high impedance coils of the fans.

One thing that it appears to me, from reading these posts is that you all are looking for faster, bigger pulses. I'm seeing the opposite for pulse speed vs. charging. With the faster pulses and faster fan speeds, I see less charging and much slower charging. gotoluc seems to be saying that when he cranks up the resistance, the fan speed increases. I don't see that at all... By cranking up the resistance on the pot, I slow down the pulses and the fan speed. In fact, if I go too high on the resistance, I can make the fan stop. Interestingly enough, the neon is brightest with the slowest pulses just a bit before going too high with the resistance... which shuts off everything. Even from a conventional electronics standpoint, that makes sense to me. The slower pulses give the spikes a chance to go into the charging batteries and do their magic... faster pulses can't get in, the electrons/spikes "stack up" (for lack of a better term) and can't contribute to the (cold) charging process. (At least that's MNSHO... ) I've unscientifically confirmed this in the last few days by putting one of my setups into a "fastest fan/pulse speed" state instead of a "slowest fan/pulse speed" state. What I saw was that even though the charge load batteries were getting some charge, the neon still lit up! (Purely hypothetical on my part, but I believe that) there must have been a backup in electrons from the pulses being too fast and even though there is a large diode (value as recommended) to prevent it, there must have been feedback spikes across the transistor. Which leads me to believe that the reverse spike reflection was large enough in voltage potential swing to break down the reverse voltage of the diode in order for the neon to light... now that's some serious voltage potential from a little 12V driven fan setup. As far as getting OU charging... I'm still messing with this. Sometimes I feel like I'm getting that and other times I definitely know I'm not. I believe that it hinges on a number of factors. 1) the "tuning" of the setup, 2) the conditioning of the batteries, 3) and something that I haven't seen mentioned, the "conditioning" of the setup... don't ask me how to "condition the setup". For me, it just seems to be happening over time.

Sorry for the long-windedness... just wanted to jump in and give my observations/progress as promised when I started this project.

ITF

[cyberphreax]

Ok, so I started playing around with this last night and after destroying 3 fans, (just for future reference Panaflow L1A's are HORRIBLE for this) which is too bad since I have about 8 more of them. I finally found a fan that I could get apart. It's a 92mm ball bearing fan with nice big coils. The problem is that I broke one of the inside wires so it's to short to connect to the 4th post. I took another coil that I mangled and unwound some of the wire. I scraped off the coating, soldered it to the wire that's too short and then soldered it to a 4th post I made using a paper clip. I have continuity to all posts so should I be ok? I'm going to play with it some more tonight and build the circuit.

[elias]

Hi Elias,

Thanks for posting your findings. I have now converted 3 fans and not one is giving me positive results like some claims that Bedini energizers can charge the battery faster then the feed battery will go down.
The first fan energizer that I made the coils are 87 ohms each. This is the one I posted the tests results above. But ever since I cut the blades off the fan revs so high that I can't keep the neon lit anymore. I went up to around 15K ohm on the pot and draw was down to 19ma but the revs past the neon lit point. However, if I put a bit of friction on the wheel (to slow it down) then the neon comes back on. So I don't think that removing all the blades is the best result if the ideal is to tune to have the neon the brightest. I added a small weight on the rotor to slow it down and now I can tune it to keep the neon on. With a 12.5 volt feed and the resistance at 7.4K ohm on the pot I draw 29ma and the neon is bright.
I actually don't have enough experience with energizers to know if this is the correct way to tune. Is it a combination of getting the smallest amount of rotor drag to use less current but enough to keeping the neon bright?

I don't know. If anyone knows I would like to know you experience.

Thanks

Luc

Bedini's machines use low impedance coils for charging batteries, higher the impedance of the coils, the slower the output battery charges, I don't understand how Imhotep has been able to fast charge his batteries, with the high impedance coils of the fans.
Maybe he'll show up and explain a bit.

Elias

[gotoluc]

Use an ohm meter to make sure you have 40 to 80 ohms on each set of coils and keep the 2 wires (that have conductivity) grouped together and connect as per attached diagram. If it is still not working just reverse the polarity of one set of coils and it should start. If it still fails, then you have a problem in your circuit.

All the best.

Luc

[mikkyo]

I made one of these things and cant get it started.
When I apply power the fan stutters and locks up.
No power it spins.
If I try and force start it nothing happens.
I tried swapping the emitter to coil with the opposite side and I get same behavior.
Any ideas?

I scavenged the fan from an old computer it is a brushless 5 inch model.
2N3055 transistor

I have some other smaller fans to try but I'd like to figure out what I did wrong.

[gotoluc]

Hi Elias,

Thanks for posting your findings. I have now converted 3 fans and not one is giving me positive results like some claims that Bedini energizers can charge the battery faster then the feed battery will go down.
The first fan energizer that I made the coils are 87 ohms each. This is the one I posted the tests results above. But ever since I cut the blades off the fan revs so high that I can't keep the neon lit anymore. I went up to around 15K ohm on the pot and draw was down to 19ma but the revs past the neon lit point. However, if I put a bit of friction on the wheel (to slow it down) then the neon comes back on. So I don't think that removing all the blades is the best result if the ideal is to tune to have the neon the brightest. I added a small weight on the rotor to slow it down and now I can tune it to keep the neon on. With a 12.5 volt feed and the resistance at 7.4K ohm on the pot I draw 29ma and the neon is bright.
I actually don't have enough experience with energizers to know if this is the correct way to tune. Is it a combination of getting the smallest amount of rotor drag to use less current but enough to keeping the neon bright?

I don't know. If anyone knows I would like to know you experience.

Thanks

Luc

[elias]

i built the unit, but ...

I used the original windings, which the ohmmeter read around 70 ohms for each winding. I hooked it up, and started tuning it to a spot where the neon gets on.
In this position the fan squeals and it runs slower drawing around 50mA at 19volts. The charging battery hardly starts moving up. I had tested thin wires for Bedini machines before and the result was the same, the battery does not seem to go up when the windings have high impedance.

Maybe I did something wrong? Does yours behave the same way, I mean the current to the output battery is not more than 10mA, or so.

Elias

[gotoluc]

Me again,

sorry to keep posting but this is a good one also.

I now power on the energizer an it works without turning, it just squeals and still sends a charge to the battery but now the pulses are full (no breaks). I thought that it maybe doing something like the MRA, Joel McCLAIN & Norman WOOTAN Magnetic Resonance Amplifier: Joel McClain & Norman Wootan: Magnetic Resonance Amplifier ~ Collected Papers

Anyway, the voltage is much higher but so are the amps. If I adjust the 22K pot to get the highest voltage I can get it up to 12.50 volts on that same small battery and the draw is 47ma (see first scope shot), however if I turn my pot to full 22K (see second scope shot) the voltage goes to 12.4 volts and now only draws 22ma. So I'm now going to try a 47K pot and see how low I can get the amp draw. Well I have it down to about 13ma and the voltage at the battery is still at 12.2 and my pot is full at 47K (see third scope shot). I'm now going to try a second 47K pot in series and see how low I can go. Now you might be saying to yourself, this guy's on pot!... Nope, these are real tests.
Okay the lowest I can go is 9ma (before it stops working).The total resistance is around 64K ohms and the voltage to the charge battery is 11.98 volts (see forth scope shot).

I know that this is most lightly not going to charge a battery. I'm just seeing how far down I can go. Also, I have on delivery one of those USB battery load tester, so I'll have plenty of tests to do when it comes in next week.

It will take time to tune and find the real sweet spot.

Stay tuned for updates.

Luc

[gotoluc]

Hi again,

I just removed the blades on the rotor to see the difference. Setup is just as test 4 (but now no fan blades) and the RPM is now 3,100 rpm and the draw is now at 32ma

I can now turn the 10K pot up full and again drop the draw to 29ma, at 3,000 rpm and the voltage at the charge battery is 11.27 volts.

So I tried it with a 22K pot and have it set to 13.4K. It now draws 19ma at 1,525 rpm and the voltage at the charge battery is 11.78 volts but have a look at the new scope shot now!... mega pulses and on top of that I even had to reduce the scale on the scope from .4ms to 1ms so they could all fit in the window. I also added one at 4ms so you could see 2 banks.

I think it would be beneficial to remove the blades if you want to get into faster charging, unless I'm not understanding the energizer concept.

Anyway let me know what you think.

Luc

[theremart]

RE: Pot

Good testing...

Even better is to find the range that works best, then to put in a 25 ohm resistor with some fixed resistors that get you to that range.

the 25 Ohm resistor REALLY lets you fine tune to better values.

But.. Input voltages is a big factor on where the ranges are..

Great work with the scope there!

Mart

P.S.

I put my fan on a bedini with the 300V transistor ( wanted to test low range )
did not do much for me spun the fan but I was getting better charge with a direct hookup to the batter from my 5W panel than using the SSG.

Will have to look into the ranges you mention.

Mart

[gotoluc]

Hi all,

I built this fan Bedini energizer and have noticed that the recommended 1K pot may not be enough. Have anyone else noticed this?

Here are my findings.

My batteries are:
feed battery is at 12.49 volts and is a deep cycle series 31, 115 Ahr. and my charge battery is at 11.06 volts and is a cheap A23 12v zinc carbon battery from the dollar store.

Test 1 with a 1K pot full (at 1K)
11.13v at charge battery
45ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,880 rpm fan speed

Test 2 with a 2.2K pot full (at 2.2K)
11.14v at charge battery
42ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,940 rpm fan speed

Test 3 with a 4.7K pot full (at 4.7K)
11.20v at charge battery
40ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,930 rpm fan speed

Test 4 with a 10K pot set at 5.2K
11.30v at charge battery
38ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,850 rpm fan speed

Please find below the scope shots of each test. Also notice the extra switching peaks as the pot gets over 4K which maybe the cause that the voltage to the charge battery goes up and the ma draw from the feed battery goes down.

I would like your feedback on this from those who have experience with this as to what is going on here. I know that the pot is to find the balance point but I was not expecting this much difference. Also, it is not the fact that it is a small zinc battery that I'm charging that is causing this since I have 2 identical deep cycle batteries and did test 4 (as above) with both identical batteries (one as feed and other as charge) and the only difference is the voltage does not go up which is to be expected from such a large battery, however the ma draw is the same and the rpm is just about the same at 1,800 rpm.

Thanks to all for sharing your good work.

Luc

Added: BTW, how do I paste my scope shots in this message? they are much larger than the below attached ones, I don't know why they have been reduced.

[**~Imhotep~**]

New videos being uploaded as we speak. I will post the direct link as soon as it is ready for viewing. This one is dedicated to John Bedini, Rick Friedrich, and Dr.Peter Lindemann. Special Thanx goes out to theremart for his help. Much more detail and new information.

[**~Imhotep~**]

it actually depends on the architecture and the geometry of the fan you have. They all are a little different. Mainly the trigger coil, from time to time i had to swap the wires. if you look at the coils, when you take it apart, it wont take you long to figure out which wires are the end of wrap. (which means 2 out of the 4 wires can gently be unwound) those are considered the positive. 2 of the wires will be at the beginning of wrap, they are buried (don't pull too hard or you will have to rewind the coils) if you put them on a magnifier you can usually see the ones that are towards the center of the stator. Those two are the negatives for the trigger and power. The two that are easily unwound are the positives of the trigger and power you can use a ohm meter to see which ones are hooked together. And it really doesn't matter which ones you use for power or trigger i found it will work either way. The way that the schematic is, is for one fan that i had. And is correct for that fan, your fan might be different but as long as you correctly determine which is in the end of wrap and which one is beginning of wrap and hook those up to the negative and positive sides in the schematic of the bedini circuit your good to go.
Happy experimenting.


ps : i didnt realize till i was responding to your question i had uploaded the wrong schematic, thank you very much for bringing it to my attention.

[gotoluc]

@**~Imhotep~**

Is this the correct side for each coils function?