Multifilar Generator Coil - Lenz delay Experiments

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, thanks for the reply.
Yes, this oscillator circuit is probably not best choice, a 555 timer pulsing the drive coil would be better.
Though the point of these tests, is not to show a COP greater than 1.
Just like turions setup, it would likely need many coil/cores to do so, that is, if we actually have a delayed lenz happening, with respect to the drive coil.
And that is what these tests are about.

Was testing the setup again and this was a better test.
Kept the drive coil/core up close, in contact with the secondary coil/core, for the duration of the test.
Whereas previously I started the oscillator and then brought it into contact with the secondary coil/core.
This time also used identical led bulbs on flyback and output of secondary coil.
The input without secondary coil led bulb load is .26 amps, when secondary load is connected, the bulb is very close to the same brightness as the flyback bulb and input drops to .25 amps.
Will continue experimenting.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

High frequencies spikes dancing on your
LED bulb gives the illusion that extra energy may be
present in your circuit delays or power lag can fool you similar to
panning for fools gold. To verify extra energy is available a meter
must be placed on the input as well as the output.

Say for instance you put in .25amps or 250ma and the output gives
you the same output then you have a 100 percent conversion efficiency
and a COP of 1:1

Just saying that the light took down the input by .03 amps or 30ma
when powering up means little in terms of COP.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, thanks for the reply, been busy cleaning the house of stuff we don't need.

I hooked up another 120 vac, 6 watt led bulb to the separate, 26 strand secondary coil/core, the bulb lights and the input decreases from .26 amps, down to .23 amps.

So, with the ability of the solid state oscillator coil/core to easily give higher frequencies, we can get the multifilar delay lenz coil to work, without the need for mechanical contraptions.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi bromikey, do you mean to try the device talked about in that thread?

Ok, since you are online at the moment, here is a pic of the setup.
peace love light

Goodness thats a bunch of wires. Yeah I think follow Turion with the
solid state you know what do they call it? That U shaped metal with the
locking bar across and the number of coil wound and connected the said
way. Well that seems to be one way. I don't know what you are getting
in the picture but it should be able to get a high high voltage so let it
go up to as high as your wire can handle about 600v then string a group
of bulbs in series.

Thats what i think

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, do you mean to try the device talked about in that thread?

Ok, since you are online at the moment, here is a pic of the setup.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hey sky maybe Turion knows what might happen, he did some of those
joule thief's, but me thinks the spike will destroy your bulb leds

Ain't it the pits. Now then using 26 series strands for a secondary is a whole
new ball game. Not sure what to try for kicks.

Dave knows more than he lets on. Try ANOTHER BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, will post a pic tomorrow sometime, busy with some other things at the moment.

The 120vac. 6 watt led bulb, is just placed across the drive coil diode flyback, so it protects the transistor a bit.

Using a low ohm resistor across multifilar coil/core as load.

As the pot. on the joule thief transistor base is varied, it does seem if the frequency is too low, the amp input does increase under load.

Though when brought high enough, the input decreases under load and frequency increases and led bulb goes a little brighter.

That seems similar to the mechanical version, maybe.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Sounds like 1 watt in and you can light an LED bulb? Maybe like
the joule thief? Can you show the setup, I am lost to know what is
being said.

BTW I take back what i said, Thane only used a bifilar coil not a 26
wire coil. Should be interesting. All in series? Humm..
Got a vid or diagram?

The amplifier drive was only for the BITOROID on steroids but it won't
hurt to try it. The Bitt as we call it uses an alternation flux path to benefit
from PF keeping the input the same. maybe you can do this with your
setup? Hum...? Let me know.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, have been testing the solid state multifilar coil generator.

It seems the same effect may be manifesting.
Using a drive coil/core that is using pulsed dc (joule thief style) and a 26 strand coil/core, in-line and in front of that, cores touching or with a small air gap, the small air gap gives a little more voltage.

With the correct frequency range, using a low ohm resistor connected across series wired multifilar coil, the input amps decrease and an audible increase in oscillator frequency can be heard.
Also have an led bulb off the drive coil, connected to flyback diode and that gets a little brighter at the same time.
This test was only drawing around 1 watt.

Will be testing this further and would also like to setup a flip flop drive circuit, to see if an AC drive will be any better.
peace love light

[lotec]

Did you try one of these? Remember you need power output also.
Which one of the three can you demonstrate? Or have you done them
all? Generators today can not be adjusted this way. Do you have such
a motor generator? Or did you want me to run the test?

Any data to support these possible solutions?

Thanks in advance.

HI BroMikey,
It wasn't my intention to get anyones hopes up too high. I haven't tried or are able too demonstrate any of these. I was just running with the idea of an inductive load causing amperage and maybe ti's magnetic field to lag causing the rotor speedup, The idea of gradually lowering the inductance was just a method to adjust the timing, much like the vacuum advance on the old gasoline motors.

I should have been more clear. The idea was intended to be a motor speed controller. I don't think that alot of power could be taken from it because of the inductive impedance that would be created. If it worked at all and the rotor speed could be accelerated to the point where the inductor could be bypassed and the coils are getting hot from being shorted to much, maybe then a restive load could be put across the coil,

For it to work at all the think that the hardware would have to optimized for that and the coils would have to induct powerfully. It's a busy time of year for me and my current attempt at a machine is a while off. If you have a machine assembled and the idea interests you, you are welcome to try it. If you do, please share data.

Regards

[BroMikey]

fast enough to bypass the inductor.

Three possible ways to do this might be, use a large inductor with a removable core and gradually pull the core out until it is just an air coil, or have a multi-tapped inductor, or use the primary of of a transformer that has a higher inductance than the motor coils when unloaded, then gradually cancel out that inductance by increasing the load on the transformer.

Did you try one of these? Remember you need power output also.
Which one of the three can you demonstrate? Or have you done them
all? Generators today can not be adjusted this way. Do you have such
a motor generator? Or did you want me to run the test?

Any data to support these possible solutions?

Thanks in advance.

[lotec]

Speed up with Indctive load.

When speed up is achieved with an inductive load and has leveled out, it might be possible to make it continue to speed up by gradually lowering the inductance of the load until it is going fast enough to bypass the inductor.

Three possible ways to do this might be, use a large inductor with a removable core and gradually pull the core out until it is just an air coil, or have a multi-tapped inductor, or use the primary of of a transformer that has a higher inductance than the motor coils when unloaded, then gradually cancel out that inductance by increasing the load on the transformer.

[BroMikey]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=187&v=AAJojRJXIV8[/VIDEO]

[Turion]

[BroMikey]

If your goal is to bring down the RPM for speed up under load,
you have 2 choices
1. Add more magnets to the rotor.
2. Add more strands of wire in parallel connected in series.

Absolutely is a great goal because anytime we can bring down the RPM
the longevity on the apparatus is increased for one thing. The other thing
is that as RPM goes down the safety concerns or danger is reduced as
parts wear down and begin to fail.

RPM's of 3000-4000-5000 would require a higher degree of precision
brought about by CNC machining, metallurgy, mechanical teams to
construct for a smaller more powerful output for way less money.

Did you ever use a high RPM generator for extended periods in the field
to run saws and lights? Those poor machines run 3600 RPM's and
degrade very rapidly. You know when she's gonna blow.

On the other hand if you also had a chance to
run an ONAN Generator at the same construction site you will
understand the difference that RPM makes.

As you work in the field using a screaming generator your nerves are
constantly bombarded and you can tell that is diminishing day by day
till one day you go buy another for fear you will be out of power.
The other one still runs but you have to be ready.

The Onan Gen runs for years and rarely fails, never making you wonder
if it is going to hang in there. This is how I look at a slower moving rotor.
The Onan runs at a crawl of 1800 rpm. Now you can rest easy.

Bigger rotor, bigger winding, bigger engine for slow speeds, see below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf2zP2UTK6A


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRJYAs5DOs8





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