Basic Free Energy Device

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Twice as fast.

Matt,

Until I find a gearing mechanism, I'm thinking of using the second motor as a generator, rectify it, and run a Boost Module off it back to the system...somewhere (?). Various possibilities here. Everything wants to see a higher voltage coming to it, so...

Bob
Bob

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Single Battery Split Positive System (1BSPS)

Guys,

This works. I'm still trying different things with it. So far, it looses and I'm just using a very small conventional motor. Nothing really to report other than it runs.

Bob

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Twice as fast.

Of course, Matt,

Got it...then the second motor would pump out the higher voltage for the remainder of the citcuit, cycling into the front end, essentially looping it.

Thanks,

Bob

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Hell guys,

I've been waiting on parts and not had much to say lately, but...press on. I've tried a few things, but nothing to brag about.

Matt, are you saying to run the neg side motor twice as fast as the pos side motor, or half as fast? I just had them directly attached so far, although I did try setting them out of phase sort of. Because they are 5 pole motors I think there is always overlap in the power windings that are next to each other, so there really isn't an OFF time for the other motor to be ON by itself. Any suggestions for finding a gear setup? I have motors with .125" and 4mm diameter shafts and could get another size if necessary.

Matt, I have a Razor motor that I rewound according to your specifications. It has an 8mm dia. shaft and I have a 16" 8mm shaft, 8mm pillowblock bearings, 8mm couplers, six 3.5" coil spools with .75" cores, many .5" x .75" x .25" neos...everything except steel rotors to replicate Dave's generator. I'm waiting on Dave for more info on what core windings to use and now he's indisposed. I'd like to order magnet wire, but don't know what size or how much a coil will need. Any suggestions? Also, I'm thinking of using two rotors, with the coils in between, and bolts between the rotors that I can adjust to make them exactly parallel and straight. Looks like the rotors will be about 14" in dia. I was thinking of either 1/8" or 3/16" thick steel rotors.

Also, I'd like to find a small motor with an even number of poles (2,4,6,8...16,18,20), something smaller than the Razor motor, that would run on a lot less power for these other experiments using 12Ah motorcycle batteries.

Thanks, everybody, for your kind words and input. Stay tuned...

Bob

[shylo]

Hi Bob, that's interesting. I've been trying to feed my internal generating coils directly back to supply , but everything heats up.
So have been feeding into a separate battery, and then charging my 2 drive batteries, by running a second little motor with the split positive set up, Charging a 20 volt battery , and running it split with the 2 primaries.
I still lose but , my runs are about 30per. longer.
Also I get ~50 volts dc off my attached generator ,but if I put too big of a load it'll just stall.
I don't think the windings can deliver the right amount of amps.
I'll try using the little motor on negative supply.
Thanks artv

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Another setup

Well, here's the setup that I tried yesterday with fairly good results. I think it's better than the one motor setup, but am still testing. Nothing OU as is, but it works and I haven't attached a generator to it to utilize the mechanical which I also think would be increased if I added a flywheel.

Bob

[iflewmyown]

Bob, you are hard-core. Doing tests out on the road.
I hope you have a cover for that unit when you get inspected by the DOT. LOL
Looks good.
Garry

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2BSPS, doubled pic

Here is a pic of my current test unit. Note that the wires coming out of the lower Boost Module are backwards. I later realized that I needed to run the Positive through the commutator.

Bob

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2 Battery Split Positive System

Hey guys,

It's been a while, but worth it. Below I have drawings of my original modified version of Dave's 3BGS with the Boost Module that I'm calling the 2BSPS (2 Battery Split Positive System, which I like because it has BS in the middle of it). Next, I have a drawing of a version that I will be trying this weekend (ran out of time last weekend) that is essentially a doubled system except the lower part gets the switching for free. If we set up more brush pairs on the commutator, they would get their switching for free, too.

My latest tests results are for my original 2BSPS which I had set up with the commutator. I made the commutator by simply cutting the wires off the commutator in another motor (but didn't remove anything) and soldering wires from one face on the commutator to the face opposite it, so all it does is chop the current for the lower system. What I found is that the rotor and winding, though not connected, do act as a small flywheel and increase performance. So, I will incorporate a flywheel from now on.

Results, all tests for 10 minutes with at least an hour rest afterwards before measuring.

Start B1- 12.30V B2- 12.24V
Test run 1 B1- 12.37V B2- 12.51V
Test run 2 B1- 12.38V B2- 12.57V
Test run 3 B1- 12.24V B2- 12.56V
Test run 4 B1- 12.20V B2- 12.53V
Test run 5 B1- 12.22V B2- 12.58V
Test run 6 B1- 12.29V B2- 12.59V

Tests runs 3 and 4 had bad results because I don't have the motor and commutator secured well and I have been doing these test while stopped in my truck (18 wheeler). So the vibration of traveling jars them out of alignment, causing excess drag. I ordered some motors with actual bearings on each end (instead of the bushings in these) and will set up a better test unit.

But the bad runs do demonstrate that even if you were to draw off some energy from the batteries, taking them to a lower level, the system will recover.

I'll keep you posted.

Bob

[voltan]

point taken. i haven't played with neos that big yet. i have pulled down and rewound a small emax rc motor with small neos in the hub, and it takes a surprising amount of force to separate the motor,after the removal of a circlip on the shaft. powerful stuff.

cheers.

[Mario]

Hi Voltan, thanks. Have you ever played with a neo that close to a core? These neos are 2 cm in diameter and 1 cm thick. the closest I went is a 4 mm gap. The lock is so strong that the razor motor can't start and I have to help by hand!
Closer would probably be too heavy on the bearings and the whole structure I'm afraid.

Mario

[voltan]

hi mario. nice work.have the air gaps been optimized. it looks like closer might be better.

cheers.

[Mario]

Hi Dave,

thanks for sharing the results of your hard work. I've been quietly working in the background on my version of a generator in trying to get similar results. Improving but not there yet.
I've been playing with the number of magnets (neos) and orientation, for instance all N on one rotor and S on the other, or N-S arrangements, from 2 to 8 magnets per rotor, gap, closed loop, open loop (rotors are magnetically conductive iron) and a bunch of other things. Attached is a picture. The housing is big compared to the rotor as I salvaged it from a muller type setup.

I was wondering if you could answer a few questions:

It seems to me you have magnets on one side of the coil only, correct?

Neos or ceramic?

NSNSNS arrangement?

What kind of open voltage do you get when the coil is unloaded?

thanks,
Mario

[Turion]

Big Gen

We already have investors interested, which is why I did not show what has to be done to speed up under load or to increase the output from the coils by two or three or four times without significant increase in amp draw.

Sorry about the noise. I am still looking for a solid way to connect a razor scooter shaft to that larger shaft.I probably just need to have my machinist make something, but that has not been a priority.

Like I said, you need to run this thing on the potential difference circuit we have been discussing here to reduce the power it consumes if you are using batteries and want to see what it is REALLY capable of. Then use one of the coils to charge a battery so you can switch out once in a while. The output voltage of a single coil might be enough to charge a battery. I don't know. Haven't done enough experimenting in that direction, but I doubt it since the amp output is so low. Who knows.

And you still need to run it with pulse motor. It WILL run with a pulse motor, and that is another input savings right there. But then it would be best to have a flywheel. That's why the shaft sticks so far out the other side. I have a flywheel and bearing stand that goes on the other end. Just don't have them in place because I am constantly tearing this thing down and putting it back together, Taking that on and off would just be more work.

[Turion]

Generator

I promised some results, and here they are.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCfmkQ0_zBk

That's all you get. That is a "Basic" Free energy device. It will put out more than it takes to run. Use a pulse motor. Saves input. Run it between the positives and recover 80% of the input. The output can be increased, but not giving how to do THAT away. Even without the output increasing and even without running this on a pulse motor or between the positives it is still COP>1. Not by much, but it is. The 35 volts @ .7 amps from each coil is more than the extra amp draw it takes to run the motor with the other coils connected. And I think I was really being fair when I said it put out .7 amps. If you watched the video it was at .69 for a split second, and went up as high as one amp output. If you DUMP all the power the gen outputs into a storage device rather than running load with it like I was doing in the video, you are home. Without that light there, it will run on just over 5 amps at 13 volts. You get THAT much output from two coils if you are NOT running loads with them and just collecting the power.

It can be made to speed up under load so there is NO additional amp draw when you load up the additional coils, but not giving THAT away either. Lots of folks on the forums have shown how to do it. Believe them or don't. I do, and I've seen it. I've DONE it with this generator. I even posted a video of it a long time back. One of my very first videos of my very first version of this generator.

With what I have shared so far on this thread, you can put together a COP>1 device. That was all I promised we would show you. I hope you will build it and show what you've built. You MIGHT get some more help. But I promise you this. Anybody who comes on here just asking questions without having built something aint a gonna get nuthin. Have fun.

Ok, let the naysaying begin. LOL

Dave

Dave