Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

By the way if anybody still not ordered the boost converter I found this add today.
150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power Supply Module | eBay

Costs more to ship than it costs. LOL And you get a 5% discount for more than 3. LOL

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Hey Matt,

I just got a few of the Boost Converters you recommend in the link below and the Input and Output are not isolated. I thought that was one of the features we were looking for. Am I missing something here?

Please advise.

Best regards,
Peter

No thats for inverters. The boost circuit is a straight boost circuit. You just use the input side like you would any other load. Set the output side to desired voltage. Run loads.

This is the post I laid out my course of research. http://www.energeticforum.com/289423-post1072.html

Let me know if you need anything.

Matt

[Peter Lindemann]

Confused?

Hey Matt,

I just got a few of the Boost Converters you recommend in the link below and the Input and Output are not isolated. I thought that was one of the features we were looking for. Am I missing something here?

Please advise.

Best regards,
Peter

150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay

We know these work and can be paralleled safely with a common cathode diode array.

Matt

[Wistiti]

Sounds like you might be wired wrong if the charge batteries are dropping.




Those numbers on there own look good, but you have to compare them to something. Try changing you boost to 12v and running 1 bulb. Then maybe run both bulbs in parallel. Or go up to 35v , 3 bulbs and see what happens.

The numbers will start telling you what to do.

Matt

Yes! I will be able to try that when i recive my adjustable dc converter... Definitivelly i take moore than 6 days of shipping!!!!!!!!

[Matthew Jones]

My results were not so good last night.

As soon as I connected dc bulbs (or motor) of any size across the booster and positive, the batt2 decreased quickly in voltage. Even with two in parallel. Quickly I stopped the test.

So for next couple days will be going through all my battery bank to refresh and refill, then do a prolonged pulse charge with the Imhotep fan charger or my digital pulse charger. So this takes time per each battery. Should've bought the deep cell instead of hybrid deep cell/fast start batteries.

Glad others are still at it.

Off topic; Imhotep pulse charged a riding mower battery for (3) months while in Japan, the voltage/amps still good two years later and always connected winter and summer. Was dead battery before pulsing charge. Yes someone checked for me while gone.

Sounds like you might be wired wrong if the charge batteries are dropping.

Originally Posted by Wistiti View Post
At report chief!

So here it is my starting data (on load):

primary: 25,60vdc
3rd batt: 15,11vdc
volt across the load (output of dc converter): 24,29vdc
the load: 12vdc 8w led bulb serie with 12vdc break light (dont know the watt...)
Total amp going to the load: 0,33a
Total amp going to batt3: 0.87a
Total amp going out of the primary: 0,87a
Total amp comming out of the negative leg of batt3 going to negative leg of the primary: 0,89a... ...???

Sounds good!!

will lett it run for the night and will report the result tomorow...

ciao!

My result (on load) 7h30 later.

primary: 24,95vdc
3rd batt: 15,13vdc
volt across the load (output of dc converter): 24,29vdc
the load: 12vdc 8w led bulb serie with 12vdc break light (dont know the watt...)
Total amp going to the load: 0,33a
Total amp going to batt3: 0.92a
Total amp going out of the primary: 0,92a
Total amp comming out of the negative leg of batt3 going to negative leg of the primary: 0,92a

i have to shut it down for the day (go at work)
What you think of that results?
Thank you

Those numbers on there own look good, but you have to compare them to something. Try changing you boost to 12v and running 1 bulb. Then maybe run both bulbs in parallel. Or go up to 35v , 3 bulbs and see what happens.

The numbers will start telling you what to do.

Matt

[Wistiti]

My results were not so good last night.

As soon as I connected dc bulbs (or motor) of any size across the booster and positive, the batt2 decreased quickly in voltage. Even with two in parallel. Quickly I stopped the test.

So for next couple days will be going through all my battery bank to refresh and refill, then do a prolonged pulse charge with the Imhotep fan charger or my digital pulse charger. So this takes time per each battery. Should've bought the deep cell instead of hybrid deep cell/fast start batteries.

Glad others are still at it.

Off topic; Imhotep pulse charged a riding mower battery for (3) months while in Japan, the voltage/amps still good two years later and always connected winter and summer. Was dead battery before pulsing charge. Yes someone checked for me while gone.

Hope to have you back soon on it! It's a pleasure to know the experiment of others builders... 😀

[wantomake]

Results

My results were not so good last night.

As soon as I connected dc bulbs (or motor) of any size across the booster and positive, the batt2 decreased quickly in voltage. Even with two in parallel. Quickly I stopped the test.

So for next couple days will be going through all my battery bank to refresh and refill, then do a prolonged pulse charge with the Imhotep fan charger or my digital pulse charger. So this takes time per each battery. Should've bought the deep cell instead of hybrid deep cell/fast start batteries.

Glad others are still at it.

Off topic; Imhotep pulse charged a riding mower battery for (3) months while in Japan, the voltage/amps still good two years later and always connected winter and summer. Was dead battery before pulsing charge. Yes someone checked for me while gone.

[Wistiti]

At report chief!

So here it is my starting data (on load):

primary: 25,60vdc
3rd batt: 15,11vdc
volt across the load (output of dc converter): 24,29vdc
the load: 12vdc 8w led bulb serie with 12vdc break light (dont know the watt...)
Total amp going to the load: 0,33a
Total amp going to batt3: 0.87a
Total amp going out of the primary: 0,87a
Total amp comming out of the negative leg of batt3 going to negative leg of the primary: 0,89a... ...???

Sounds good!!

will lett it run for the night and will report the result tomorow...

ciao!

My result (on load) 7h30 later.

primary: 24,95vdc
3rd batt: 15,13vdc
volt across the load (output of dc converter): 24,29vdc
the load: 12vdc 8w led bulb serie with 12vdc break light (dont know the watt...)
Total amp going to the load: 0,33a
Total amp going to batt3: 0.92a
Total amp going out of the primary: 0,92a
Total amp comming out of the negative leg of batt3 going to negative leg of the primary: 0,92a

i have to shut it down for the day (go at work)
What you think of that results?
Thank you

[Mario]

See thats kinda the wrong way to think about what we're trying to do. I have seen these hold steady and I am getting the parts together to try it again on a small scale. I have done this now on a larger scale several times, but we need a smaller scale model to work.So everyone can have it. So its not you copying me....
It all of us putting something together and collecting the data.
From that we can derive a formula or worst case decide it doesn't work on small scale.
But it does.. it's just a matter finding what works.

So there is no replication guidance for me to give you.

If your 2 top serial batteries are not discharging equally you are already seeing the effect I am talking about. Batt1 and Batt2 are in serial and Batt1 stays charged more than Batt2 most of the time that means the power coming back is not high enough to charge both batteries. Maybe we need more ripple in the current and in that case removing the smoothing capacitors or adding a switch on the load side might be needed.
But until ya'll start documenting what your doing and with what and the numbers to go with it including voltage,current and time I have no way of making suggestions.
Thats why I say get something running. Log your info then we can start making suggestions.
As long as you want, we'll all work on this, and we'll all make it work.

For some time I have settled on the fact that once I make something work and I am convinced its working I do not need replication. I have nothing to prove to anyone.
If WE want this thing to work, we are going to have to work on it. If your still not clear on why it should happen I'll explain it again. But WE all have to work the bugs out of our own systems. Thats trial by fire. LOL

Matt

Matt, I don't wanna copy anything, it's about like you said, finding a formula, or common denominators. I think asking how much power you were drawing in relation to your series batts (whatever size they are) when you got the effect could help narrow down variables. Nevermind my question...

Mario

[Wistiti]

You need an adjustable converter. Matching the voltages is not requirement its just an example.
Put what you got together and see what happens. Then report.

Cheers
Matt

At report chief!

So here it is my starting data (on load):

primary: 25,60vdc
3rd batt: 15,11vdc
volt across the load (output of dc converter): 24,29vdc
the load: 12vdc 8w led bulb serie with 12vdc break light (dont know the watt...)
Total amp going to the load: 0,33a
Total amp going to batt3: 0.87a
Total amp going out of the primary: 0,87a
Total amp comming out of the negative leg of batt3 going to negative leg of the primary: 0,89a... ...???

Sounds good!!

will lett it run for the night and will report the result tomorow...

ciao!

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,

Thanks for elaborating on the circuit and your thoughts for the experiment - the two slides and the explanation provide a clear direction as to the goal. The adjustment of the load to balance the voltages to both battery assemblies is understood. So looking forward to putting this together after the arrival of the boost converter and giving it a test drive some time next week. Hopefully the parts arrive in a timely fashion.

Best to you and the other watchers,
Yaro

Good to hear. Document everything.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

So If my converter output is 24,29vdc my serial battery may also read 24,29vdc... Do i understand it well?

If so, we really need an adjustable converter...

You need an adjustable converter. Matching the voltages is not requirement its just an example.
Put what you got together and see what happens. Then report.

Cheers
Matt

[yaro1776]

Matt,

Thanks for elaborating on the circuit and your thoughts for the experiment - the two slides and the explanation provide a clear direction as to the goal. The adjustment of the load to balance the voltages to both battery assemblies is understood. So looking forward to putting this together after the arrival of the boost converter and giving it a test drive some time next week. Hopefully the parts arrive in a timely fashion.

Best to you and the other watchers,
Yaro

[Wistiti]

So If my converter output is 24,29vdc my serial battery may also read 24,29vdc... Do i understand it well?

If so, we really need an ajustable converter...

[Wistiti]

So here is my plan to move forward. I attached 2 images to this message. Look at the first one.

Slide one

You can ignore the switch on slide1. But look how the voltages all work out in the circle. This is basically what you are doing now if you have a setup going. The current on the ground side, moving to the serial batteries is only -3.2 volts over the source voltage at 25.5 volt.

You have to remember zero is where you put it. These batteries are both positive and negative and depending on how want to look at things you chose where to put the meter or scope leads.

With 3.2 volt we are seeing the tipping of the serial battery charge rate. Batt 1 holds up better than Batt2.

Look at slide2. Again ignore the switch.

Now we have adjusted the output to put out the same amount (Within reason) as source batteries. We will need a serial load. 2x 12 volt bulbs run in series to handle this power. But now on the ground side we get -14.3 volts.
We should see an improvement in the performance of the serial batteries. If we don't then what I have seen in the past and my theory around it is wrong.
All is not lost from that though. In fact that can answer a really big question and help us narrow down what is happening.
Don't get me wrong I am fairly positive that I am not on the wrong road, but if the data comes back and says the batteries are performing better for longer periods of time then we need to hone in on that effect. We need to peak out the performance on that side and start knocking down the things that are costing us.

So now in Both slides I have a switch which I told you to ignore, but that switch may change the effect altogether. It can allow us to continue to run the circuit while adding more modulation. Don't be scared of a transistor and a Arduino. Embrace it!! And you have no worries because I can teach ya how to use it. Its so simple you'll laugh at yourself later for not using them sooner.

Now the only thing I see at the moment that is limiting factor is the boost module we have chosen to work with. Specs say minimum 10 volt input. I think I have already run it lower than that but if that gets in the way. I'll give you guys a simple little circuit to go with your Arduino and WALLA another little problem solved.

I could go on, but I really want to say just get your basic setup running, have a little faith. These things take time, patients and the will to understand. You cannot just pull them out of your hat. Especially when everyone uses different stuff. But when your done and your only charging once a month and doing hundreds of watt hours of work you'll realize how powerful this can be.

Everything you do from that point on, will relate what you could learn here.

Matt

Hey! Matt...
Do i understand to use a 12 to 24vdc boost converter?? cause i already have one in stock... ( mine have no adjustement...anyway, i will try!) But i have not recieve the one i order...
i already have an arduino (but i am really newbe with it...)and couple of transistor... When i have it properlly working, i am all ears open to your switching method!