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  • wantomake
    replied
    Good one

    Originally posted by Mario View Post
    Dave, I'm trying to picture it in my head. Do you mean something similar to this? THE LENZLESS GENERATOR INVENTED BY DAN QUALE

    You said non magnetic rotors, but if they are non magnetic it's like they're not there? Maybe I'm not seeing what you mean.

    regards,
    Mario
    Mario,
    This is something I can start experimenting with. Dave said a lenzless generator that can work with the modified Matt motor.(hope I quoted right) Having a lot of the round microwave magnets and scrap metal, I may build a smaller version to test with.

    I'm not going to discuss how to build it cause this is new area of learning for me. I've studied Thane Heinz videos with the acceleration under load method. As for conventional generators, I have a bone yard of them. Like my battery bone yard.

    wantomake
    Last edited by wantomake; 06-11-2016, 01:51 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    The Road

    When John B first posted the SG, instead of building it according to John's instructions, everybody took whatever crap they had in a pile and tried to build an SG out of it, and then when it didn't work, they blamed John or said he didn't know what he was talking about. And then more people jumped on board and started talking about all kinds of changes and modifications to the original that THEY were doing and when new people came aboard they were totally confused and didn't know which end was up...especially the people who had little experience with this kind of stuff. Let's not let that happen here.

    Now skywatcher had the right idea. He wanted to talk about running the inverter off the potential difference, so he started his own thread on that topic. And we have jumped aboard there because that was something we were already doing. But now we are talking about that here too.

    Yes it is a Basic Free Energy Device, but I think the output is limited by what the inverter puts out. Not that it isn't a great system, because it IS, and Bob French and I have been messing with it for months, but unless you are going to buy a PILE of batteries, you are limited in your potential output.

    Now a MOTOR can run on the potential difference and the shaft of that motor connected to the PROPER generator can put out way more useful power than the inverter, and that is where I wanted to focus here.

    There are really only a few devices that you get ANY benefit out of running between the potentials. A motor (or motor coils), an inverter, and a transformer. All THREE of these topics should be explored.

    BroMikey started a thread on splitting the positives, and right now he is showing how to wind Matt's motor to run it on the potential difference. All three of these threads are overlapping and as some of us are contributing on all three, it is getting confusing trying to keep track of what information has been posted where, and some things I think people should already know were posted on the 3 Battery Generating System thread.

    I don't know what the solution is, and maybe some others should throw out their opinion as to where we go with all this.

    Dave

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  • Brodie G
    replied
    say if you were running a 24/48v system....is it not possible to run a 2nd boost converter off the 24v battery that was outputting say 72v and then run another inverter inbetween that 72v and the 48v system? or would that cause a short???

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    V,

    Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep looking for something I can buy to start my experiments in this arena. My time to build experimental circuits is still at a premium.

    Peter
    150W DC DC Boost Converter 10 32V to 12 35V 6A Step Up Power supply module | eBay

    We know these work and can be paralleled safely with a common cathode diode array.

    Matt
    Last edited by Matthew Jones; 06-11-2016, 10:45 AM.

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  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    I'll Keep Looking...

    V,

    Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep looking for something I can buy to start my experiments in this arena. My time to build experimental circuits is still at a premium.

    Peter


    Originally posted by blackchisel97 View Post
    Hi Peter,

    I'm using similar but 600W rated converters for my Light Therapy units and they share common negative (ground).

    Regards
    V

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Mario,
    EXACTLY like that generator. I don't know if it's the BEST idea for a stand alone generator, but it IS an idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Matt,

    What do you think of this boost converter? It's listed as 8-60 Input Voltage, 20 amp. They cost $17.99. I guess the only things we need to know is if the output is 100% isolated from the input, and if the unit will operate with an input voltage all the way down to 8 volts, right?

    1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Step-up Power Supply Module IN 8-60V OUT 12-83V Sale - Banggood.com

    Peter
    Hi Peter,

    I'm using similar but 600W rated converters for my Light Therapy units and they share common negative (ground).

    Regards
    V

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Brodie G View Post
    wouldnt it be easier to work with a 12/36v system or a 24/48v system, as you wouldnt need to push as much current through the boost converter to get the required wattage?
    The easiest system to work 48/96. The reason is simple. Most 48 volt island inverters run between 56v and 38 volt.
    So a 48 volt bank there and discharge to 48 volt, but a 96 volt serial side can be as high as 108 volt.

    So this leaves a lot of potential to work with. The more the better but this why we are encouraging using a boost circuit. It allows you to create the potential.

    Matt

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  • Brodie G
    replied
    wouldnt it be easier to work with a 12/36v system or a 24/48v system, as you wouldnt need to push as much current through the boost converter to get the required wattage?

    Leave a comment:


  • gyula
    replied
    Originally posted by Mario View Post
    Dave, I'm trying to picture it in my head. Do you mean something similar to this? THE LENZLESS GENERATOR INVENTED BY DAN QUALE

    You said non magnetic rotors, but if they are non magnetic it's like they're not there? Maybe I'm not seeing what you mean.

    regards,
    Mario
    Hi Mario,

    There must be eddy currents induced in the steel plate rotors which surely influence the static fields from the stationary magnets with respect to the static fields which may come through the offset without undistorted. So induction in the gen coils can happen.
    It is possible that this eddy current loss is small (depends on the plate thickness too) hence the input power for keeping the plates in rotation is needed to defeat the air drag and bearing friction only. Is there any benefit? There may be once Dave tested it.

    Gyula
    Last edited by gyula; 06-10-2016, 10:33 PM.

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  • Mario
    replied
    Dave, I'm trying to picture it in my head. Do you mean something similar to this? THE LENZLESS GENERATOR INVENTED BY DAN QUALE

    You said non magnetic rotors, but if they are non magnetic it's like they're not there? Maybe I'm not seeing what you mean.

    regards,
    Mario

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Low voltage vs high voltage

    Matt said this is harder to make work at low voltage, and easier to make work at high voltage. But when you try to scale it up to run your house on it, solar is cheaper. He and I have HAD that discussion many times. But what you CAN do with low voltage is run a small load of less than about 100 watts. This is PERFECT for running a Matt Jones modified razor scooter motor off the potential difference. Like I said before...use THAT to run your generator.

    This allows you to build and run generators that would NOT be efficient enough if you had to run them a different way, but are BEAUTIFUL when you can run them for FREE.

    I'm not saying I have the BEST idea, but I have a generator I have built that works. How about this one. Two ring magnets with coils in between or two thin steel plates with some big neos on the back in a circle and the coils in between the plates. Both magnets or plates have north toward the coil. Between both ends of the coil you have a rotor of non magnetic stainless steel or mumetal. The rotors are exactly the same except offset so that first one end of the coil is exposed to the magnet and then the other.

    No magnetic lock because rotor is non magnetic. No Lenz because there are no moving magnets. And how much do you think that rotor will slow down when you add a load to the generator coils?? Is it the most efficient generator in the world? Nope. But since you can run it on this setup with Matt's motor for a really, really, REALLY long time, does it really matter?

    The "laws" are not our enemy. They are a guide for what NOT to do. Spinning magnets are a problem? Don't USE them.
    Last edited by Turion; 06-10-2016, 07:48 PM.

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Some of those circuit have to have a true ground connection. They will not work without it. Linear has few chips that act up when your not on real ground.

    I do not know about that one in particular. But seeing it 12v - 80v I would not purchase it. You need something that can run as low as 7 volt up 15v. The potential difference closes quick.

    I like solid state locking relays but they tend cost a bit for the power they can handle.
    But as far as you guys are concerned you can do what your trying to do easily with Arduino.Ada Fruit Metro mini or equivalent, a TLE7231g SPI interfaced, Power distributor.
    The Arduino has enough ADC port to read all the batt voltages and based on that you communicate with the power distributor through SPI to make it turn on what ever switch's you need.
    If you only have 4 battery positions then you have 4 possible scenerio's. You could even just use pins on the Arduino to control that.
    Truly thats pretty small project unless you looking to push more than 100 watt.
    But remember you need modulation in the current flow and the total voltage on your load and your charge batt need to exceed the total voltage of the serial batts or your power will just wind down slowly. You'll be reasonably efficient but nothing special. Find what I am telling you, and you'll see months of runtime not days. Its not hard to do, but it hard to do with low voltages.
    Later you'll realize batteries are not required.

    I was wondering why you guys jumped out of the wood work to help clean things up bit. LOL

    Cheers
    Matt
    Last edited by Matthew Jones; 06-10-2016, 07:48 PM.

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  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Possible 20 amp boost converter

    Matt,

    What do you think of this boost converter? It's listed as 8-60 Input Voltage, 20 amp. They cost $17.99. I guess the only things we need to know is if the output is 100% isolated from the input, and if the unit will operate with an input voltage all the way down to 8 volts, right?

    1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Step-up Power Supply Module IN 8-60V OUT 12-83V Sale - Banggood.com

    Peter
    Last edited by Peter Lindemann; 06-10-2016, 03:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Latching Relays

    Matt,

    I've been working with Erik at TeslaGenx who is developing a 4 battery switch for a project with me. It uses Latching Relays which don't take any power to sit in either position, just an impulse to switch. With a battery rotation event about once an hour, the switching system essentially takes no power at all, just the small amount needed for the brain board.

    In this project, I was not going to rest the battery after coming off of discharge, only rest the battery coming off of the charge cycle. So these boards have 4 relays per board. If all of this works, a 5 relay board can be developed and made available as a kit from TeslaGenx.

    Erik is doing a lot of this in his spare time, but we are eventually wanting to include high and low voltage detection to allow for continuous auto-rotation of the batteries based on the actual charge condition.

    This is a different way, but may not be a better way depending on what you are running and the time between battery rotation events.

    We hope to have something fully worked out by mid-summer.

    Peter

    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Also as far as switching all the batteries position I was little wrong about the cost. You cannot use low cost mosfets as they do not make without protection diodes. You have to use a higher cost IGBT, 5 per battery. I have to try to find a lower cost IGBT with a very low voltage drop, that can handle the wattage.

    Matt

    I added whats needed for the switching. Anybody got a better way?

    Leave a comment:

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