Basic Free Energy Device

[Wistiti]

Good idea to put a transfo betwin the negative legs...

I think i read few post ago , Matt said splitting the negative may destroy the battery... and creating some kind of black fluid Inside the batt... Is it right Matt?? If not i think splitting also the negative is a good idea...

[SkyWatcher]

Hi yaro1776, thanks for sharing the test data.
So if 6.54 watt hours were yielded from the bulb load in splitting the positive phase and 8.5 watt hours were yielded from then discharging battery 3, as a single battery discharge.
And your input was 9.15 watt hours.
Then, 15.04 watt hours output, gives 164 percent efficiency, for that test.
peace love light

[yaro1776]

Test#2 and a Reality Check

Greetings Gentleman,

Accomplished the first test run of the booster circuit with a 6 watt dc bulb load. The basic arrangement used 3 NAPA Tractor Batteries (one turned out to be way weaker) and adjusted the converter to a stable voltage that allowed for a 1 hour test run.

Measured the amperage between batteries position 1 and 2 along with amps between 1 and booster converter using externally powered Hall type amp sensors.

Mucked around a bit for a stable system and decided to use a booster voltage of 13.64v where the weaker battery worked fine. Not perfect but a good start.

Time B1 B2 B3 Boost A1 A2
Start 12.70 12.85 12.52 13.64 0.0 0.0
6:53 12.20 12.51 13.31 13.64 0.64 0.65
7:11 12.20 12.51 13.46 13.64 0.63 0.74
7:31 12.18 12.51 13.68 13.64 0.65 0.70
7:53 12.15 12.51 13.94 13.64

Resting voltage after 1 hour - B1 12.50, B2 12.77, B3 12.78

Discharge B3 (Charge Battery) down to 12.20 volts with 8 watt load for 1:21 hrs and rest B3 for 3 hrs with final voltage at 12.52 - same as starting point. Ah value is not an accurate reflection due to initial setup time

As an end test cross check on the amperage draw used an 8 watt bulb on B1 and B2 for several minutes to stabilize voltage. B2 at 12.51v and B1 at 12.17v - close to both test end run volts. Rest voltages returned to above noted values.

Attached are test assembly pic and .pdf's of real time amps at noted data times - quality not great here but will correct.

Happy 4th,
Yaro
[ATTACH]17304[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17305[/ATTACH]

So fresh from the holiday a second replay of the previous test was performed with more attention to detail and refinement of the test procedure.

The following is a condensed version of the test with the details to follow after attending the energy conference in Idaho.

This test was executed with the same setup and values as the previous test with the exception of a new Tractor battery to replace the weakest one. The results may be a bit coarse, but they do yield useful information. The test was run for one hour with data taken at regular intervals.

Condensed results as follows:
Charge battery (B3) drain test yielded 8.5 wh
Bulb load yielded 6.54 wh
B1 power input 4.17 wh
B2 power input 4.98 wh
Booster converter load ?

If you are into joule mode x 3600.

The power extracted from B1 and B2 were calculated by recharging both batteries to a given voltage using an Energenx 1AU charger. Each battery was then drained down to the end voltage of the test run using an 8 watt 12v dc bulb. Not perfect, but close!

Plan on duplicating this test again next week to establish a firm data and performance baseline and then moving on to further tweaking the booster converter to the recommended levels. From there,the inverter arrangement beckons.

Questions relevant to this thread and above posts will be addressed.

I leave it to the learned readership to interpret the above results and subsequent data sets - have fun...

With respect,
Yaro

[Wistiti]

Guys,

I forgot to say that the PowerBright inverter can be ordered online from Home Depot and picked up at the store with no shipping charge.

Right now I'm playing with placing a transformer (not an inverter) between the Negatives. We'll see.

Bob

Good idea to put a transfo betwin the negative legs... may i suggest to use 2 bucking coil as the secondary..? It should lower the lens effect.

[[email protected]]

Guys,

I forgot to say that the PowerBright inverter can be ordered online from Home Depot and picked up at the store with no shipping charge.

Right now I'm playing with placing a transformer (not an inverter) between the Negatives. We'll see.

Bob

[Wistiti]

Thank you Sky.
I will give it a try when i have some spare time!
Hope you will recieve your boost module soon! Mine take over one month!!
Ciao!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi wistiti, while waiting for my boost converter, i have been making experiments with the re-emf circuit.
I have found better charging, by placing a capacitor in parallel with the 12 volt charge battery or bank.
Then placing a diode from positive of capacitor to positive of charge battery, with anode of diode connected to positive of capacitor.
The flyback diode from the transistor collector, goes to the positive of the capacitor.
I'm using a 12 volt-1.5 farad car audio capacitor.
I'm using a 19.5 volt laptop power supply for input into re-emf circuit, 5.6 watt input, 3, 12 volt 235cca in parallel as charge battery bank.
Thanks for sharing bob, i may have to pick up one of those power bright inverters, if they are that efficient.
peace love light

Here's the capacitor add-on with diodes circuit, of course i dont have a boost converter yet.

[[email protected]]

Hi guys,

Yesterday I tried something simple and thought I really had something with 3 batteries, so I stopped it, added a second battery to the Battery 3 position and spent the rest of the day switching around every variable I could think of trying to get back what I started with...to no avail.

But one thing, it now seems evident to me that if you place a device across Battery 3 you suck up the charge that we're trying to get to go all the way through the batteries to keep the Primaries up. Whatever we use needs to be between the positives of the 3BGS. That's just my guess.

Also the 400W PowerBright inverter is greatly. Here's a pic. I ran it all night with no load to charge 6 garden batteries (230 CCA) that made the Battery 3 in a 3BGS setup with my 24V set. From about 12.40V, they were over 14V in the morning. Adding the load of a small fan on speed 1 (3 speed fan, max. .8A) ran them up to 15+V. It seems to be so efficient that the fan never came on.

I'm awaiting a part for my Razor Scooter motor that I modified according to Matt. I can't wait to try it on the 3BGS. I wonder if 2 of them could be run in series to give us enough Boost without a Boost Module. The Boost Module is great, but I still am focussed on trying to find something without solid state components.

Take care,

Bob

[i_ron]

[SIZE="3"][I]Okay I finished the rotor and popped it all together, here
she is. I put tape on the motor shaft so you guys can see
the motor is running at the 1 amp value.

Hey Bro, great work on the motor! Thanks for sharing the balancing tip, cool.

Great pic as always, you do set the standard here for posting pictures, good work!

Ron

[dragon]

I haven't been able to access this site since the 24th... today it's working again...

I found the same thing with the watt meter using the neg leg for amperage measurements. My other meter uses the positive leg through a shunt ( considerably more expensive than the others ).

Since the 24th I've built up a bunch of different set ups for testing and measuring and have moved to something a bit different. I've moved away from the boost converter and have started using the output of the inverter, rectified, through the load and back to the batteries. I'm working on the last step to convert the higher voltage to amperage.

[Wistiti]

No for now the 2 x 12v/7ah primary batt slowly drop while the 2 x 12v/70 and 150ah charge. Moore test have to be done and i hope you and other people will join in! If so, let us know about your experiment...

Ciao!
Ps.: Ciao! mean "see ya!"

It is amasing to be able to fully charge this big batt with this 2 little one!

Matt, im agree with you, it Will be nice if we can put some energy back in the "3bgs " section...

[Wistiti]

Hi Wistiti,

nice setup. Similar to what I tried with other BEMF chargers. Might wanna give this a try too. Do you know the effciency of the REMF charger on its own?
Is ur combined setup working above 100%, so the ENERGY in the 4 batteries together rising?

kind regards

No for now the 2 x 12v/7ah primary batt slowly drop while the 2 x 12v/70 and 150ah charge. Moore test have to be done and i hope you and other people will join in! If so, let us know about your experiment...

Ciao!
Ps.: Ciao! mean "see ya!"

[mainsen]

Hi Wistiti,

nice setup. Similar to what I tried with other BEMF chargers. Might wanna give this a try too. Do you know the effciency of the REMF charger on its own?
Is ur combined setup working above 100%, so the ENERGY in the 4 batteries together rising?

kind regards

[Matthew Jones]

I'm glad to see some results coming in. I have been swamped with the farm so I haven't much time to test.
Just to get this off my chest I am troubled by the presence of BroMikey. He is on my ignore list so I do not have to see his babble, but he tends to clutter threads that are on their own developing good information. As far as I can see 3 posts in row and I can only guess at the font and picture size if they contain any info at all it would be him trying to make suggestions as to how to do things instead of results, masked with praise and admiration. He is the downfall to this forum.

Remember your ignore list if this invader continues to post here!! He is bound to screw up a good thread. After all thats his self appointed job!!

That said I still have intentions to test several configurations. I'll start posting them in the morning.
I would really like to see some attempts to generate energy to put back into the system.
WantToMake tried it but it has to be switched back into the system. A battery is a negative resistor and will draw 100% of the current out of the generator into itself, causing heavy cogging and a lot of amp draw on the prime mover.
So to use a mechanical generator you have to limit the current. A load will work if it doesn't knock the voltage down to much. We can also load a capacitors and dump them onto the battery but that might cause issues.
My personal favorite is to run a switch. Pulsing the power out of the generator.
So I'll get that one worked up for ya'll to play with. Its really easy and should give you some fundamental knowledge of using a transistor or Mosfet.

We also have another option but as of yet I have not found a cheap solution to using an isolated boost circuit. Most of them with any power can cost around $150. But essentially if you use an isolated boost circuit between your positives everything that come off of it is GENERATED voltage. It becomes a solid state generator. So you can put that energy back into the system. Its easier too because most isolated boost circuits are also current regulated.

I think it would be a real achievement to see a system that could be easily replicated, in which we could find a way to charge all the batteries back up. With new arrangement of boost circuits sending power back up to the serial bank I can start to see how this might be possible. Eliminating the need for any outside power source.

Enough rambling I just wanted to thank everyone who's taken this project on themselves. Its really nice to see some work going on again.

Cheers
Matt

[Wistiti]

Hi guys!
here is the circuit i am playing with.
Ciao!