Open discussion for projects on this forum.

[Matthew Jones]

Matthew you write a lot of ridiculous stuff that you won't or can't prove as well....
..

3 separate posts ????? Thats as bad as 3 threads and umpteen amount of post to say you don't agree with Thane Hines.

Thats what makes you ridiculous on your end of the spectrum. LOL

Matt

PS. If your ever come to this side of the pond, look me up. I'll show you a thing or 2 for sure.

[Farmhand]

I'm heartened to see people have such a contempt for me. I certainly won't feel
guilty for what I do when I get treated like this.

Have a nice day.

[Farmhand]

I'm not asking for anyone to do anything or change what they do all I'm doing is
putting forward a perspective which I thought was worth mentioning.

I'm not even saying anyone has or will fake anything.

I'm just saying that a real HP value could not be reached if the test equipment is not designed to do it.

Can anyone deny a more slippery belt will produce a different reading.

Can anyone say with certainty that a rpm meter that is sold to be used with
reflective tape should be used without and just because the reading is
somewhat stable must be correct.

I use reflective tape and a cheap meter, so what, it is accurate because I have
calculated the rpm of a generator rotor by frequency and magnets with a sine
wave, no extra oscillations. I checked it to be sure. Not that I am making any
claims, just for me.

This thread was made for people to make their opinions.

I don't think Carroll intended people to experience bullying attempts here.

But go for it. No skin off my internet nose.

P.S. Turion I'm not making judgement on you or your actions, I think you are fully
capable of realizing anything I or anyone else could. I was just mentioning
something I thought was kinda overlooked. I'm not trying to say to do
anything different.

..

[Farmhand]

Matthew you write a lot of rediculous stuff that you won't or can't prove as well.

You accuse me of contemptible behavior. What is it. Please be specific.

If you can make accusations against people have the gonads to say what you are talking about.

What is my contemptible behavior. Show me an example.

Those dyno tests are only any good for the person doing them, they are as easy as pie to fake.

..

[Matthew Jones]

David
I would not worry as to whether anyone agreed with you or not. Farmhand and UFO are equal in contemptible behavior. And both are ridiculous to an extreme on either end of the spectrum. They are not worth worry and neither of them of them have any credentials of ability and both of them plain type to much garbage for it to be any good.

That said...........

As long as you know the measurements from the mechanical side and you know the Watt count on the electrical side for the Unmodified motor you are fine. The unmodified motor is preset. 250-300 watt 1/3 HP at the rated RPM. Its ability and efficiency are FACT... So the modified motor can then be scaled. As long as the tests are equal.
But all the data has to be taken into consideration All measurements. Then the picture becomes clear. And from what you told me the motor performs above the stock motor whether the consensus of the test is positive or not.

The biggest thing is how to move forward with it? The question you have to wonder is, is this the first time it has been tested to this extent? And does it have the ability to move further?

Pandering and reworking test to satisfy narrow minded doubts is not going to get you there. When you satisfied with what you have done you should start testing to find out whats happening the power, because once you know that you can replicate on any scale. Trust me brother non of it is hiding in some fools mystery.

Matt

[Turion]

If any of this is in reference to the tests I did on UFo's motor vs modified motor, I too am concerned about accurate test results. I found that by painting the wheels black I got a really consistent reading with the tach I have, and am satisfied with the steady readings I am getting now...not jumping all over the place like (as UFO said) someone reading numbers at a Bingo game. As to the use of the belt on the pulley. I believe, as Farmhand has stated, that results might depend on the leather used in the belt AND the friction. And this could change as the thing heats up. But as all I care about is the comparison between the two motors, there is an easy way to tell if the results are at least semi accurate.

First, I am going to find a second digital meter so the readings don't jump all over the place. Then I will test the standard motor. Record the results. Test the modified motor. Record the results. Test the standard motor AGAIN and record the results. If the two tests of the standard motor are the same or very close to the same, we could assume an average of the to to be fairly accurate in comparison ONLY to the standard motor. Whether this is a true measure of their horsepower I could CARE LESS. All I want to see is a comparison of these two motors to each other. Can we all agree on that? Can we all agree that this would be a fair way to assess whether the friction of the belt on the pulley over time is changing the readings on the scales to ANY DEGREE THAT MATTERS?

I don't want anything that I do to be the cause of stress in the lives of others, so let's just wait and see what the results are. It will be Tuesday before I can get to the stores and find another digital scale.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Dubious Dyno Tests...Dodgey Results

I'm dubious about the home done dyno tests. I don't see how if a belt that has a
much lower friction value could give the same result as one that has a higher
friction value. ie if the belt used is slippery a lot more force could be applied to
the belt before the same effective drag is placed on the motor shaft.

eg a belt made from greased leather compared to one with tar applied or two
leather belts but just with different friction values would show different results I
think. As a belt is used it will probably get more and more smooth and slippery.

I don't think any old strap or belt could be used to give an actual HP value, I
think all that could be determined would be a relative value for comparison.
And with a belt that becomes smoother and shinier as it is used the friction
value would change and so skew the results.

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

It doesn't make any sense to me that two people can use different straps
with different friction values and both get an accurate power value.

Any thoughts on that ?

Bottom line is these type of tests can be easily faked I think. Maybe that is a
good project fro me to do next, see if I can show two different readings from
the same motor using belts with different friction values, or the same belt
modified to have a lower friction value. Sounds like fun to me.

Cheers

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

..

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

Peter Lindemann -- Electric Motor Secrets - YouTube

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

If You are not familiar with New Technology and electronics in Tooling ...and still keep used to the Old Fashioned Antique Equipments from Second World War...that is NOT my problem...but Yours...
This Tachometers, the same way the new Laser Thermometers , are equipped to perform at "Dual Functions" meaning with LASER and without it, meaning just Infra Red. LASER is provided to ENHANCE Accuracy as to reach longer distance. Tape is supplied for IR use without Laser.

P.D: It is absolutely not my desire, and much less "My Pleasure" to respond to you, since you have earned the ability to produce Nausea and Disgusting feelings in my stomach...However, I must do it, just because You are referring about Me, My Thread and The Members Excellent work replicating and testing My Machines...accusing them of Faking Results...and all those vomiting and dark spoiled rotten "verbs" that are always spilled and excreted from your brain...

And I am NOT going to allow you to post ANYTHING like that without My response...and it could be here, on this thread, mine or in the middle of no where...

Never Regards for such disgusting poor creature like you, but compassion about your great pain...

[Farmhand]

I'm dubious about the home done dyno tests. I don't see how if a belt that has a
much lower friction value could give the same result as one that has a higher
friction value. ie if the belt used is slippery a lot more force could be applied to
the belt before the same effective drag is placed on the motor shaft.

eg a belt made from greased leather compared to one with tar applied or two
leather belts but just with different friction values would show different results I
think. As a belt is used it will probably get more and more smooth and slippery.

I don't think any old strap or belt could be used to give an actual HP value, I
think all that could be determined would be a relative value for comparison.
And with a belt that becomes smoother and shinier as it is used the friction
value would change and so skew the results.

To come up with an actual "horse power" value from a home made dyno using
a strap and some scales is dodgey to say the least in my opinion.

It doesn't make any sense to me that two people can use different straps
with different friction values and both get an accurate power value.

Any thoughts on that ?

Bottom line is these type of tests can be easily faked I think. Maybe that is a
good project fro me to do next, see if I can show two different readings from
the same motor using belts with different friction values, or the same belt
modified to have a lower friction value. Sounds like fun to me.

Cheers

P.S. And the reflective tape for the RPM meters is a doozy, if the meter
comes with reflective strips they are meant to be used I imagine. The
question is if the reflective strips are there why not use them to be more
accurate ?

..

[Farmhand]

Mosfet drivers

I agree with you Carroll, I use Mosfet drivers to get a fast turn off and full
turn on. But I also agree with UFO, resistors are easy and can work ok for
lower frequencies. I use mostly TC4420 or TC4427. Which like all mosfet
drivers I guess give virtually vertical turn on and off even at higher frequencies 40 Khz
still vertical.

If someone was looking for faster turn off I would suggest a driver chip of
some kind as well. Or a 1n4148 diode and a pnp transistor can be used for a
turn off sharpener as well so no resistors need be used but only if the signal
source can drive the mosfet on properly.

If the mosfets are turned on and off quickly, full on and full off then they
don't get hot unless they pass a lot of current.

Won't turning the mosfet off quicker produce a better discharge of the energy
stored in the coil's field ?

Cheers

P.S. I also have some high/low side drivers and I intend to use one for a boost
converter with synchronous rectification, to see if I can beat the efficiency of
the one I made with schottky diodes.

..

[citfta]

Flywheel diode

Hi Ufo,

Yes I agree the flywheel diode is probably not needed on your motor however this drawing was shown as an example of how easy it is to use the proper chip for the job. You cannot get quick turn off times on the mosfet using the circuit you have posted. The gate capacitance is just too high to get quick turn off by trying to bleed off the gate charge with your resistor to ground from the gate. This simple chip takes care of that problem. That is what it was designed to do. If anyone can connect a 555 circuit and get it to work then they should be able to easily use this chip. Besides being easy to use it gives you great isolation between your timing circuit and your power circuit so you don't have to worry about any spikes getting back to your timing circuit and causing problems there.

Respectfully,
Carroll

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Citfta

Hi everyone,

In post #1362 of the "My motors helped me to tap into radiant energy" thread a member was explaining he couldn't get good sharp turn off of his mosfets with the circuit he was using and he asked if anyone know of a chip that would help him get faster turn on and off times with his mosfets. I replied that the FOD3180 chip gave very good results and also turned the mosfets fully off and on. I was politely told by Ufo to butt out and not to be telling HIS people what they should be using. He also said he didn't know if that chip would even work. Well I DO know that chip will do exactly what the poster was asking for. All you have to do is look up the data sheet and you will see that this chip was specifically designed to do just exactly what the poster was looking for. In addition there are several of us on this forum that have used that same chip for everything from the Tesla Switch to the 3 Battery Generating system and it has always worked great for very quick on and off times. I have attached a drawing showing how you could connect it to the output of a 555 chip and control a motor. Ufo has already posted a pretty good 555 circuit for giving pulse width modulation so you could use his 555 circuit and just change the output to this circuit with a good driver chip.

Later,
Carroll

PS: I just saw the chip in the drawing is the 3120. The 3180 is connected exactly the same and is rated for a higher voltage.

Hello Citfta,

Thanks for sharing our small exchange of "data" in my other post...now if you please allow me to explain "my side"...like in any "Democratic Republic"...Right?...

Carroll, the poster was asking for some trouble turning Off the FET's, and I was helping into some basic resistor checking that do the work very simple and easy, without bigger complications...and honestly there is absolutely no circuits related to that chip you have mentioned on that thread that could be used as a reference...so Poster Anoop was still going to be lost. That is the reason I ask you not to post that IC and ask Her to follow and review the other circuits.

On other issue...the Circuit you are posting here contains a "Flywheel Diode" (D3)...And I WILL EVER...recommend to anyone reproducing My Motors to use A Diode in that position...it is KILLING Radiant Energy...and My Machines do not need that Diode since they do NOT generate ANY B EMF.
FET's have them as Intrinsic Diode to protect them and that is Ok...but never parallel to Motor Input like that on My Machines.
@ Turion:
Dave if you ever hook a Diode like that to any of your Motors on your 3BGS (meaning not only My Machines but any other symmetric ) ...You will get absolutely Nada...Nothing...
If you like ...make that "test"...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[citfta]

A Better Mosfet driver circuit

Hi everyone,

In post #1362 of the "My motors helped me to tap into radiant energy" thread a member was explaining he couldn't get good sharp turn off of his mosfets with the circuit he was using and he asked if anyone know of a chip that would help him get faster turn on and off times with his mosfets. I replied that the FOD3180 chip gave very good results and also turned the mosfets fully off and on. I was politely told by Ufo to butt out and not to be telling HIS people what they should be using. He also said he didn't know if that chip would even work. Well I DO know that chip will do exactly what the poster was asking for. All you have to do is look up the data sheet and you will see that this chip was specifically designed to do just exactly what the poster was looking for. In addition there are several of us on this forum that have used that same chip for everything from the Tesla Switch to the 3 Battery Generating system and it has always worked great for very quick on and off times. I have attached a drawing showing how you could connect it to the output of a 555 chip and control a motor. Ufo has already posted a pretty good 555 circuit for giving pulse width modulation so you could use his 555 circuit and just change the output to this circuit with a good driver chip.

Later,
Carroll

PS: I just saw the chip in the drawing is the 3120. The 3180 is connected exactly the same and is rated for a higher voltage.

[Turion]

Hey guys,
I wanted to interject that I have run my 3BGS with that very same combination of batteries before and NOT gotten the results I am getting right now. It was the addition of the UFO modified motor that got me these positive results. Possibly I was just not patient enough.

Now that said, Matt is using a standard motor, and during the test runs he has done, the primaries drop at first, but then slowly come back. (Over a five hour run)

In the two videos I am listing below, which were shot about an hour apart (giving the batteries time to rest between runs to see if they would increase in voltage)

Batt 1 started at 12.39........Batt 2 at 12.34..........Batt 3 less than 1 volt
Batt 1 ended at 12.54.........Batt 2 at 12.60...........Batt 3 at over 11 volts, but you can see it dropping like a rock in the video (Man I LOVE THAT!)

In the second video Batt 1 had climbed to 12.58 while resting, so that's where it started. ....Batt 2 had only climbed to 12.62, so that's where it started. These were measurements at rest AND under load when I started the second test. At the end of that second run, Batt 1 ended at 12.73....and Batt 2 ended at 12.65, while running an AC 120 volt electric fan off the combined output of the UFO modified motor's generator connected in parallel with battery 3 to the inverter.

And this is all without putting a load on the motor which INCREASES the output of this system.

UFO motor/ 3BGS - YouTube
UFO/ 3BGS test 2 - YouTube
Oops...forgot this one...It doesn't show much in the way of voltages, but it DOES show the loads I can run without drawing down on the primaries. The jumping around in voltage is because of the spikes that are hitting the primaries.
3BGS Test 3 - YouTube

The two keys to this setup are the UFO modified motor and the AWG battery in the third position that will take a charge, but will NOT hold it. (That dropping like a rock thing I love so much.)

Any way you look at it, this is something special.

We are working on ways to "kill" an AWG battery and make it do what we want it to do. The one Matt is using has a short in it and when it is shorted, it doesn't work and he has to shake it to get it to show the magic.

Replicate, replicate, replicate. I used a 16 pole razor scooter motor that I rewound according to UFO's directions. It has 8 brushes and two commutators and outputs dc current on the generator side.

Tomorrow I will get the amp gauges I need to finalize my testing of my modified UFO motor, fulfilling the commitment I made to the folks on his thread. Then I will be full time testing the 3BGS with this kind of motor and other kinds of motors, as we think a pulse motor may be even better. The advantage of the UFO motor is it appears to have a lot more torque than say a monopole, and we can use that torque to drive a generator. And putting a load on the motor just makes everything work BETTER.

Drop by the 3BGS thread, but start with my first post, because it gives you some important directions on how to test to see if the battery you are using in the third position is going to work for you or is a waste of your time.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/10610-3-battery-generating-system.html

Dave

[citfta]

See Bizzy's thread

Hi freepenguin,

You might want to look at Bizzy's Bedini/ Watson machine thread. He is pulsing a motor which is driving a generator by using a simple mechanical switch. The generator is producing enough power to keep the system running. He has had it running for as long as 9 days without losing power from the battery! You might get some ideas about pulsing from his thread.

Carroll

[freepenguin]

Carroll,

F.M.CHALKALIS ENERGY MULTIPLIER
F.M.CHALKALIS ENERGY MULTIPLIER - YouTube

I've been working on this device, i.e one version of harmonic oscillation system at theoretical level. I came to conclusion that the resonance property in nature can be utilized to produce clean energy from different type of matter.

All working(?) gravity motors that known always have two components: pulser (trigger), slave (sorry for naming, I can't find the right word for it.)

F.M Chalkalis' Energy multiplier has trigger that is the two rubber wheel below the ceiling run by a motor. It keeps the huge metal sector at constant speed. The kinetic energy of the rotating sector is many times bigger than the electric energy that the trigger consume.

Here is another version of gravity motor. The Russian inventor supposedly sell real gravity motor kits for general public. However the inventor has been off radar. If you study through his videos, he used to rigid body simulation program to test his idea and building prototypes. He had two types of gravity motors. (He named them gravity wheels though.)
The bottom line is his gravity motor has one trigger (electric motor) and slave (tiny metal objects along a bicycle rim).
The rotation due to deflection of weights_2. Gravity wheel. - YouTube

For detail info check the link.

Kanarev Philipp made new theory of laws of motion. He built an electric generator (one trigger motor and one slave motor) to prove his theory is right. Why he hasn't disclose the machine construction information? I don't know.

My logical guess is after studying his 'Energy impulse theory' leaded to essential components: timer (crystal oscillator), PWM (pulse width modulator) that controls the trigger motor, two DC motors (trigger - small power rating, slave - bigger power rating with flywheel), speed check circuit, microcontroller and EEPROM that has PWM and sensor management software.

I picked up Arduino for implementing PWM because it runs on GNU/Linux, fully open source based, versatile, and cheap. My estimate cost for a prototype gravity motor is around $50 to $60: Arduino board, a trigger motor, a dummy or big motor, tachometer circuit. The beauty of Arduino is it uses PC/laptop USB port for power and data transmission. It provides 5V DC at 30mA power output through pins to control sensors and devices.

The goal is to find the basic pulse formula that keeps the slave motor at optimum speed which produces greater power always than the trigger. I think once the formula is discovered, it's done deal. Few people can work together. After that once the pulse formula is discovered, scale up is easy. Because we are dealing with well-known forces: friction, air resistance, inertia of rotating mass.