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  • Turion
    replied
    I’m really, really hoping that with three strands in series I can run it at a little higher RPM, still get around 110 output but at HIGHER amps because there will be 4 strands coming off the coil instead of 3. More strands mean more amps. Maybe only 2 strands in series if the rpm is high enough. If NOT, time to try a 24 strand coil. Still LOTS of things to try. Not all the secrets to what works BEST have revealed themselves.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Not bad for a half baked test knowing the bulbs would blow with the rotor running 1000rpm's over the limit. Also you had already pointed out that at 2800rpm's the bulbs would blow because they were getting 130vac and over. So yeah at 3750 rpm the bulbs were probably getting 200vac. You're a crazy guy, yup.
    Geezz, put the bulbs in series next time dude. They gonna whine anyway that the measurements are off.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 02-02-2020, 03:33 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    That was one of my original machines. No opposition magnets. You HAD to run it on 36 volts to break the magnetic lock or it wouldn’t even BEGIN to rotate, even with only a couple coils. The switch reduced power down to 24 or 12, but it was only a 30 amp switch, so it didn’t last LONG trying to start this thing without magnetic neutralization. But what do I know. Just a raving lunatic.
    That makes sense. You have so many configurations. My favorite crazy guy.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    If all right, that's how you say about the coil but also, there is also what is already known and you mentioned it Dave

    The mass of your magnet.
    Air gap
    # of magnets on the rotor
    RPM
    core material
    # of winds in the coil
    wire diameter
    # of strands
    connections between parallel strands

    All these effect your input and output, because with THIS machine the output DOES affect the results you get with your input.


    According to the present variables of the principles of magnetic induction, and the multifilar coils that you have shown us with your tests, in my case I will test later with more wire coils (24), I am interested in lower speed,
    Thanks Dave, we remain attentive to your progress, and here replicating your project

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    You guys need to remember what I have said:
    The generator puts out the MOST power when it neither speeds up NOR slows down. So if you wound a coil with 12 strands and groups of 4 are connected in series it will run with the most output at ONE rpm. If you have groups of 3 strands connected in series it will output the most power at a different rpm. What is the easiest way to raise or lower the rpm? Adjust the voltage. The More strands on the coil, the LOWER rpm you can run the thing and still be in “neutral” and outputting the most power and require LESS voltage input. Got it?

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    very good question
    Hey Dave, on the tube video where you deliberately blew out the bulbs why run the rotor at 3750 rpm's when all your units are designed at 2800 rpm's? Or is the new RPM near 4000 now?


    But what I've read Dave says he's running at 1400 rpm with 12 magnets, and if he runs at 2800 then it will be more voltage and amperage
    In my opinion it is better to work at low revolutions

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  • Turion
    replied
    That was one of my original machines. No opposition magnets. You HAD to run it on 36 volts to break the magnetic lock or it wouldn’t even BEGIN to rotate, even with only a couple coils. The switch reduced power down to 24 or 12, but it was only a 30 amp switch, so it didn’t last LONG trying to start this thing without magnetic neutralization. But what do I know. Just a raving lunatic.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Hey Dave, on the tube video where you deliberately blew out the bulbs why run the rotor at 3750 rpm's when all your units are designed at 2800 rpm's? Or is the new RPM near 4000 now?

    Leave a comment:


  • alexelectric
    replied

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Lw6WILrFvA

    Mr. Dave, a professor of his inventiveness and creativity that shows his proposals in detail
    What measures do you use magnetically neutralizing magnets in the rotor and stator

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    And the rotor is cut down. This is kinda how I make a rotor.
    https://youtu.be/y2yUdxkuHtY
    Is your drilling machine setup with bottom drills? Ya know so you can stop just before the have way point where magnets fit in? We talkin 1/6"?

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    And the rotor is cut down. This is kinda how I make a rotor.
    https://youtu.be/y2yUdxkuHtY
    That is so much better a rotor than the old ones. I feel safer already. No more hockey pucks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    And the rotor is cut down. This is kinda how I make a rotor.
    https://youtu.be/y2yUdxkuHtY

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Rotors and Magnets
    https://youtu.be/1qP85zCAPG0
    Hey Dave I just watched all your newest video's on your new YOUTUBE channel. That is a leap into the future for builders.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Rotors and Magnets
    https://youtu.be/1qP85zCAPG0

    Leave a comment:


  • alexelectric
    replied
    ok well, they detected the problem that was consuming more current.

    Could you try again later with the 24 volt motor?

    For the time being, I am going to reassemble another rotor in the project, with the neutralizing magnets on the periphery of the rotor, with the current rotor I encountered the problem that there is a blockage between one magnet and another, so that this will correct and improve

    Leave a comment:

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