"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

[Redmeanie]

Jet,
Those voltages are WAYYYY Lean!

Everyone Please read page 14 through 16 of this document....It will clear everything up for you...

[gashouse24326]

VR2 Voltage

I have a general question about the voltage setting for VR2. Everything that I've seen says that it needs to be set somewhere in the neighborhood of .9 volts, except for what's been mentioned here in the last few days. It seems to me that it would need to be set relatively high. At least somewhere above the threshold that tells the computer that the mixture is rich and needs to be leaned out. I don't know if the computer changes the mixture in proportion to the difference between the voltage that it sees and the voltage that it wants to see, or if it just adds or decreases the fuel by the same amount until the the threshold is crossed again, but since it only sees zero volts and whatever we set the value controlled by VR2 at, which is controlled by the settings of whichever pin the rotary switch is turned to and is completely independent of the voltage setting of VR2, then don't we need to have it set relatively high so that the computer will see a rich condition and lean out the mixture?

For InTheField, I'm sure that Red can answer the question himself, but just to let you know, I thought the same thing when I received my kit. A closer inspection showed that there were enough legs on the both of the switched to handle both EFIE's. It took a little bit of figuring, but that's how I wired mine up. I think that I recall him mentioning something about wanting separate controls for both EFIE's or a single control for the pair of them. The way that I wired it up seems to work fine.


Jerry

[InTheField]

Fyi...

Just to let you know Red... I got the kit yesterday PM. I haven't had time to do more than a cursory look at it, but I gotta say... NICE JOB. The PCBs look very nice! Right off, I HAVE to recommend this to EVERYONE doing these mods on their vehicles! MUCH more professional results will happen!

Two minor questions:

1) Was there supposed to be a rotary and DPDT for both EFIEs or just one? (I only saw one rotary & DPDT switch in the packet... like I said, only a cursory look last night... if I need something that's not in there and I don't have it in stock myself, I can pick it up I'm sure...).

2) Would you recommend against hooking up an LED bar directly to the 3914 to get a "visual" on what's going on with the O2 sensor? I think it would be OK, just want your opinion. (It would only work when the EFIE was "switched in"... unless a little modification was done... not a big deal to do... sorry, just thinking... )

I've started a second job (to pay for effin' gas to/from work ) at night, so I don't know when I'll get to building this. Needs to be sometime this weekend tho!

Regardless, THANKS and

Take Care,

ITF

[Jetijs]

Hi Red
Yesterday I run my took my car to engine diagnostics and they said that everything is ok and the board computer shows no errors. So now I don't know anymore what the cause for the high fuel consumption is. It still shows 7.7L/100km, but a normal fuel consumption for such car is about 6L/100km in city mode. I have already changed all the things I can and I hoped the diagnostics would show something. I also adjusted the EFIE so that it puts 425mV on the output, but this doesn't seem to have changed anything. I still can browse through all the lean/rich scale without any noteicable difference in car performance. Here's what the diagostic report says:
Oxygen sensor1 voltage 0.110V
Oxygen sensor2 voltage 0.060V

Of course, during the checkup I disconnected the EFIE.
Do these voltages mean something to you?
Thanks.

[Redmeanie]

Well, darn.

Mr. Meanie, Sir:
I encountered a slight problem with my endeavor tonight. I thought I was over the hump until this happened. The upshot is that I'll get some more much needed practice soldering. The downside is that after putting everything together, while in the process of adjusting the variable resistors, I decided to turn the switch and try to measure the output voltage to see what would happen. When I did, one of the LED's went out. Closer inspection revealed that one of the "sweeper" arms(since I don't know what they are actually called for this particular type of item)had broken off. *sigh* So, getting back to my earlier question about the specs for the rotary switches, will the one at Radio Shack work? I'm kind of eager to finish this up an try it, and since I have to go survey some land in Brunswick tomorrow, I figured that I'd stop by, pick one up, and see if I couldn't replace it tomorrow evening.

Another question...you mentioned earlier that you had the data sheets, or at least some information, on the parts that were included in the kit. I don't want you to go to all the trouble of sending me data sheets or anything, but if you wouldn't mind posting the parts numbers and store(s)? where you purchased the stuff, I'd really appreciate it.

Jerry

p.s. The 250K trimpot for the high power PWM didn't come with my stuff, but since I'm not planning on building it anytime soon, it's not a big thing. I'll just order it when I order the other stuff.

p.p.s. Not to sound like a moron, but the little pad that came with the Mosfets goes between them and the heat sink, right? I mean, I know the theory, I can do the math. You want an engine rebuilt, or a transmission, then I'm your man. I can do limited programming in Fortran, Pascal, C, and Basic, or at least I used to could(I'm working on the some of the syntax for the different forms of PIC programming, but I"m not there yet). I make really ugly welds that seem to hold heavy weights fairly well for at least a little while, and I'm realizing that I'm pretty bad at soldering, and in fact less talented than your eight year old daughter, though I am getting better, and I'd like to attribute at least some of the unkempt quality of my joints to the entirely too large tip on the soldering station that I have. I have in fact done some circuit building in the past, but only breadboard work. I'd really like to learn more, and am definitely not ashamed to ask someone to (movie quote), "Explain it to me like I'm a 4 year old." So, now that I've thrown my disclaimers out there, please help.

As always, gratefully yours,

Jerry

Jerry,
Sure any rotary switch will work...It just needs to be a "Non Shorting" style.

If you didn't get a trimmer for the PWM I will send you one, and if you need me to I will send you one for the EFIE too to replace the one that you broke the leg on. Just let me know if thats what you need.

On the heatsink to Mosfet connection, I chose N type Mosfets so you really don't need the insulators between them. The tab that connects the Mosfet to the Heatsink is a Ground, so use them if you want but they are not necessary.



If you need datasheets Here they are:

[gashouse24326]

Well, darn.

Mr. Meanie, Sir:
I encountered a slight problem with my endeavor tonight. I thought I was over the hump until this happened. The upshot is that I'll get some more much needed practice soldering. The downside is that after putting everything together, while in the process of adjusting the variable resistors, I decided to turn the switch and try to measure the output voltage to see what would happen. When I did, one of the LED's went out. Closer inspection revealed that one of the "sweeper" arms(since I don't know what they are actually called for this particular type of item)had broken off. *sigh* So, getting back to my earlier question about the specs for the rotary switches, will the one at Radio Shack work? I'm kind of eager to finish this up an try it, and since I have to go survey some land in Brunswick tomorrow, I figured that I'd stop by, pick one up, and see if I couldn't replace it tomorrow evening.

Another question...you mentioned earlier that you had the data sheets, or at least some information, on the parts that were included in the kit. I don't want you to go to all the trouble of sending me data sheets or anything, but if you wouldn't mind posting the parts numbers and store(s)? where you purchased the stuff, I'd really appreciate it.

Jerry

p.s. The 250K trimpot for the high power PWM didn't come with my stuff, but since I'm not planning on building it anytime soon, it's not a big thing. I'll just order it when I order the other stuff.

p.p.s. Not to sound like a moron, but the little pad that came with the Mosfets goes between them and the heat sink, right? I mean, I know the theory, I can do the math. You want an engine rebuilt, or a transmission, then I'm your man. I can do limited programming in Fortran, Pascal, C, and Basic, or at least I used to could(I'm working on the some of the syntax for the different forms of PIC programming, but I"m not there yet). I make really ugly welds that seem to hold heavy weights fairly well for at least a little while, and I'm realizing that I'm pretty bad at soldering, and in fact less talented than your eight year old daughter, though I am getting better, and I'd like to attribute at least some of the unkempt quality of my joints to the entirely too large tip on the soldering station that I have. I have in fact done some circuit building in the past, but only breadboard work. I'd really like to learn more, and am definitely not ashamed to ask someone to (movie quote), "Explain it to me like I'm a 4 year old." So, now that I've thrown my disclaimers out there, please help.

As always, gratefully yours,

Jerry

[ashtweth]

Guys i scanned in all the information from the package and have it in a PDF do you guys need that for your write up?

Ash

[TuxAir]

We'll simplify that. I found it a bit ambiguous as well.

[Redmeanie]

I did everything right as you posted above, except that the VR2 is set so that the output voltage is 1V. Will readjust it tomorrow
Thanks!

Yeah if you read that manual I sent you, its real vague and states to move it back down to the 500mV range like in the last paragraph in the "adjusting on the bench" portion. That manual is all over the place! They shouldn't have even mentioned the 1V....Its just to check that the Voltage out drops all the way to zero when you cross the threshold.

But then they barely mention to return it to an actual operating range....

Also Im thinking if your vehicle naturally burns rich, this will really help you because you can actually lean out that wasted fuel and make some gains just by doing that.

[Jetijs]

I did everything right as you posted above, except that the VR2 is set so that the output voltage is 1V. Will readjust it tomorrow
Thanks!

[Redmeanie]

EFIE Step By Step.....

Use this set of directions. JUST use the portion starting at " Circuit Operation" through "Installing the Controller"

[Jetijs]

I set the switch to full rich position (pin 10), put a 500mV voltage source to the input and then adjusted the VR1 so that the LED comes on. When this was done, I could switch to other leaner positions and the LED was still ON. So, again in the full rich position and 500mV input, I adjusted the VR2 so that the voltage on the output (to computer) was 1V. This is all like in the instructions. So instead of 1V, I need to adjust this VR2 to get 425mV on the output? This will be lower than the input. Did I understand right?

[Redmeanie]

Red,
do I have to notice any changes in driving/acceleration using the EFIE without a HHO booster? It is just that today I made a trip to a near town that is about 10 miles away. I drove these 10 miles with the EFIE set to full rich and then I went back the same route with the EFIE set to max lean position. Did not feel any difference. But then again I am not sure that my car doesn't have any other problems, because my Toyota Yaris consumes 7.7 l/100km, that is too much for a car this small. I remember that a few years ago the fuel consumption was about 5.5l/100km. I have already changed all the things I can change - all the filters (air,fuel,oil) and the oil itself. Will bring the car for diagnostics next week. Maybe there is something different wrong that makes the car consume more fuel that the EFIE can not affect.

Everyone please read the PDF D17 listed below pgs. 14 through 16 for the calibration of your efie...

[Jetijs]

Red,
do I have to notice any changes in driving/acceleration using the EFIE without a HHO booster? It is just that today I made a trip to a near town that is about 10 miles away. I drove these 10 miles with the EFIE set to full rich and then I went back the same route with the EFIE set to max lean position. Did not feel any difference. But then again I am not sure that my car doesn't have any other problems, because my Toyota Yaris consumes 7.7 l/100km, that is too much for a car this small. I remember that a few years ago the fuel consumption was about 5.5l/100km. I have already changed all the things I can change - all the filters (air,fuel,oil) and the oil itself. Will bring the car for diagnostics next week. Maybe there is something different wrong that makes the car consume more fuel that the EFIE can not affect.

[Redmeanie]

EFIE Insight......

After Careful Consideration, and experience with this device I have some insight on what I believe are important things to "Consider" with these devices.

1) The Warm up time for the EFIE with the 470UF Capacitor is about 3 mins. This is a safety buffer for your "Booster" to generate a reasonable amount of HHO. If
However you don't need that much time you can cut the Warm Up time down to about 1 minute by changing this to a 100UF Capacitor.

2) Instead of Mounting the LED in the Board, run wiring so it can be mounted somewhere where it's visible. This will let you know when it's flashing on and off that your ECU is actually staying in closed Loop.

3) I know I provide them, but I would like to see everyone switch the rotary to a Rocker switch that is SPDT for single Efie's and DPDT for Dual Efies. The reasoning is all the settings are not needed. And they are wasted on the Rotary. Set one for "City" and one for "Highway". This is straight forward, no room for mistakes and the Rocker Switch is much more durable. I feel this should be done once you are comfortable with the EFIE and understand how it functions.

4) All adjustments need to be made "WITHOUT" HHO Running! Or I would just recommend picking a conservative "Toggle Point" During Bench Testing and leave it there until you are sure you can take it down a notch. Start around 400mV this is 1 step lean from stoich. Then you have the 6 adjustments to choose from that basically alter the signal out in 50mV increments.

Oh Yeah and.....

I Do Not Recommend Altering Your Vehicle In Any Way That May Violate Any Laws In Your State. This Info and The Device Kits That I Provide Are For "RESEARCH" Purposes Only! Therefore Myself Nor Is This Forum Responsible If You Damage, Destroy, Or Hurt Yourself Or Your Property!