Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_K]

G'Day John K
I really appreciate yours and every ones help and especially JB for allowing us to learn here.
I have made a correction to my last post
so now my coil is made of 2 strands 1200 feet long and 1 strand 600 feet long I left the 1 strand loose and connected the other 2strands now 1200 feet each in parallel and connected them to the circuit. So the 2 1200 foot strands are measuring 3.8ohms when both are in parallel.

I am going to have to get more wire to continue with my build I still do not know what size wire I need to make the coils for the size machine I have made it is 1/9 the size of JB's machine. and I am sure I do not need to make the coils strands each 445 odd feet long, the 4 strands on his big coil measured in parallel 4.2 ohms.

So now are you ""suggesting ""that I make 1 coil of 4 strands 1200? feet all strands paralled to give me 1.9 ohms?


Why did you say JB's ballpark 1.9 ohms Did I miss something when I was reading the posts?

I will see what I can work out. Thanks again.

Kindest regards Kogs

Sorry Kogs,

I think I read it wrong. Keep doing what you're doing. John B said the machine works best at between 2 and 4 ohms (if I remember correctly) so you're right up there at 3.8 ohms.


John K.

[iankoglin]

Hi Kogs,

I have some ATS137 halls that John B suggested arriving this week. I'll send you down a couple you can play with. Ren, you can have a couple too.

You could also try paralleling the 2 1200ft strands which should give you 1.9 ohms, which is in John B's ballpark. Just a thought.


John K.

G'Day John K
I really appreciate yours and every ones help and especially JB for allowing us to learn here.
I have made a correction to my last post
so now my coil is made of 2 strands 1200 feet long and 1 strand 600 feet long I left the 1 strand loose and connected the other 2strands now 1200 feet each in parallel and connected them to the circuit. So the 2 1200 foot strands are measuring 3.8ohms when both are in parallel.

I am going to have to get more wire to continue with my build I still do not know what size wire I need to make the coils for the size machine I have made it is 1/9 the size of JB's machine. and I am sure I do not need to make the coils strands each 445 odd feet long, the 4 strands on his big coil measured in parallel 4.2 ohms.

So now are you ""suggesting ""that I make 1 coil of 4 strands 1200? feet all strands paralled to give me 1.9 ohms?


Why did you say JB's ballpark 1.9 ohms Did I miss something when I was reading the posts?

I will see what I can work out. Thanks again.

Kindest regards Kogs

[iankoglin]

Great work Kogs! Your a magician with wood!!
Is it MDF you are using? What is the weight of the wheel approximately?

Best regards
Erik

G'Day Erik
Yes The wheel is made from 1 sheet MDF 6mm @440mm x 1220mm for the sides, the spokes in side are 20mm thick mdf and 77mm wide 2mm wider than the ferrite magnets around the circumference I fitted a strip 90 mm wide 3.5mm MDF to contain the magnets
75 x 50 x 20mm Block (Ferrite)
25 x 6 x 3.5mm Block (Rare Earth)

There is a 3.5mm piece of MDF screwed to hold the magnets in place so they do not drop down as the wheel turns slowly.
I made a center boss 300mm diam by 77mm thick which I bored a 24.6mm hole through the center to press a 25mm iron shaft through so as to be a tight fit. The bearings are NKS RHAEL205 they have a camlock to attach the bearing to the shaft and special bearing housing RH52MS so as to attach the bearing to the 18mm MDF frame. The bearings I soaked them in thinners and blew the grease out with air through a very tiny hole say .75mm diam and then re-lubed them with TRIflow I found that the dust shields were actually loading the bearings and I had to remove them. I found also that if the bearings are not alligned correct in the housing they also load the bearings.
There are no nails or screws in the wheel itself everything is glued together the only screws are what holds the magnets and the bearings to the frame.

The weight of the wheel I do not know except that it is heavy and I can JUST lift it on my own.

Kindest regards Kogs

[minoly]

[John_K]

Big Bedini Machine (3GT)

Hi P'n'S,

I don't want to hijack your post, but take a look at the first picture on post #12. It shows 2 thick wires from the main coil, one red and one black. This would suggest that all the wires are paralleled together into one (modified) Bedini/Cole circuit.

I think that John B is using the 2 slave coils for the mag amp which is why they are offset. He did say the machine is running in interferometer mode, which is mixing waveforms that are slightly out of phase, which in my mind fits in with the mag amp theory.

Just my ramblings, I could be on the wrong tram...


John K.

[John_K]

Big Bedini Machine (3GT)

Hi Kogs,

I have some ATS137 halls that John B suggested arriving this week. I'll send you down a couple you can play with. Ren, you can have a couple too.

You could also try paralleling the 2 1200ft strands which should give you 1.9 ohms, which is in John B's ballpark. Just a thought.


John K.

D'Day All

Here are the pics of my KogsS1GT
Pictures by Kogs1 - Photobucket

While I was waiting for the electronic parts to build my circuit On my S1GT I mounted an 11 filar coil along with its SSG circuit to suit. The coil is made up of 2 times 130 feet? of 5 x .8mm litz wire and one .56mm trigger wire and 1 MJL21194 transistor per strand it worked Fine. But when I replaced the trigger wire with the hall the wheel went round BUT all the transistors all got hot I moved the coil in and out also adjusted the hall position to no avail, I quit with that episode.

I now have received the electronic components for my BediniS1GT and now have assembled the circuit I tried it. The coil I built was all the wire I had left over from previous builds 600 feet of 5 x .8mm litz. ( I know we are told not to use twisted wire but this is all I had and I need to experiment first as I have still to decide what wire I need to purchase before I order any) The coil former is 135mm high 120mm diam with a core size of 55mm the core R60 rods protruding 50mm above the former and the Iron plate mounted at the bottom of the coil bent to form at 45deg on the 2 sides.
When I ran it the Transistors got hot and the hall seemed to have latched on I thought that I perhaps may not have built the circuit properly. I removed the circuit and replaced it with one I had built, a simple circuit to test the hall one to drive the wheel as a motor, just simple so as to test the magnet arrangement to fire the halls. I had used a halI that latches on when I was building so as to be able learn how the hall worked so as to install it correctly.
Immediately I found that the hall was a latching one I had fitted the wrong one then after replacing it with a correct one I still had the problem the transistors got very very hot. After trying again to move the hall and coil to I still could not rectify the problem so I decided to alter the coil I joined 2 x 2 wires in series so now my coil is made of 2 strands 1200 feet long and 1 strand 600 feet long I left the 1 strand loose and connected the other 2 strands 600foot in parallel and connected them to the circuit.

Now I was able to adjust the coil and the hall so the 1 transistor did not get hot I ran it all day and it still did not get hot. The revs were constant at 5.6 The amps fluctuated from .02 to 0.8 The battery a 12 volt remained constant 12.42 for 6 hours then dropped to 12.39 after another 2 hours.
I measured 5 strands 600 feet 5 x .8mm litz parallel was 1.296 ohms
The 2 strands 1200 feet parallel was 3.8 ohms

The next thing I have to do is now build the charging

[erikbuch]

Great work Kogs! Your a magician with wood!!
Is it MDF you are using? What is the weight of the wheel approximately?

Best regards
Erik

[iankoglin]

I am waiting for the electronic parts for my S1GT build and am following all the posts.


Kindest Regards Kogs

D'Day All

Here are the pics of my KogsS1GT
Pictures by Kogs1 - Photobucket

While I was waiting for the electronic parts to build my circuit On my S1GT I mounted an 11 filar coil along with its SSG circuit to suit. The coil is made up of 2 times 130 feet? of 5 x .8mm litz wire and one .56mm trigger wire and 1 MJL21194 transistor per strand it worked Fine. But when I replaced the trigger wire with the hall the wheel went round BUT all the transistors all got hot I moved the coil in and out also adjusted the hall position to no avail, I quit with that episode.

I now have received the electronic components for my BediniS1GT and now have assembled the circuit I tried it. The coil I built was all the wire I had left over from previous builds 600 feet of 5 x .8mm litz. ( I know we are told not to use twisted wire but this is all I had and I need to experiment first as I have still to decide what wire I need to purchase before I order any) The coil former is 135mm high 120mm diam with a core size of 55mm the core R60 rods protruding 50mm above the former and the Iron plate mounted at the bottom of the coil bent to form at 45deg on the 2 sides.
When I ran it the Transistors got hot and the hall seemed to have latched on I thought that I perhaps may not have built the circuit properly. I removed the circuit and replaced it with one I had built, a simple circuit to test the hall one to drive the wheel as a motor, just simple so as to test the magnet arrangement to fire the halls. I had used a halI that latches on when I was building so as to be able learn how the hall worked so as to install it correctly.
Immediately I found that the hall was a latching one I had fitted the wrong one then after replacing it with a correct one I still had the problem the transistors got very very hot. After trying again to move the hall and coil to I still could not rectify the problem so I decided to alter the coil I joined 2 x 2 wires in series so now my coil is made of 2 strands 1200 feet long and 1 strand 600 feet long I left the 1 strand loose and connected the other 2 strands now 1200 feet each in parallel and connected them to the circuit.

Now I was able to adjust the coil and the hall so the 1 transistor did not get hot I ran it all day and it still did not get hot. The revs were constant at 5.6 The amps fluctuated from .02 to 0.8 The battery a 12 volt remained constant 12.42 for 6 hours then dropped to 12.39 after another 2 hours.
I measured 5 strands 600 feet 5 x .8mm litz parallel was 1.296 ohms
The 2 strands 1200 feet parallel was 3.8 ohms

The next thing I have to do is now build the charging

[minoly]

[minoly]

Micro 3GT self start:
YouTube - min2oly's Channel
15 second shot to show it can be done quick and easy even on a small scale. had to re-cannibalize.

Patrick

[Rl2003]

Clarity

Mark,

I'm limited on bandwidth here as I'm at my limit, but yes, I charge all the batteries from the negative side. I put the full potential across the battery and then switch it negative. I use the energy from the positive to power the switching on the front. Hope this helps.
John B

John, Thanks for the Clarity.
I know you have said this several times, and at the conv. as well. But I did not fully
understand it until now. Almost like a fog in my brain, that would not allow me
to put two and two together. Thanks again for sticking with this group.
I have a few things to correct and fix, but believe I am close to having this
stage working well..
Mark

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Mark,

I'm limited on bandwidth here as I'm at my limit, but yes, I charge all the batteries from the negative side. I put the full potential across the battery and then switch it negative. I use the energy from the positive to power the switching on the front. Hope this helps.
John B

[genessc]

Mark,

Thanks for the info. I placed an order for all the semiconductors so will just have to sort out the rotor.

Yeah the charging battery from John K's schemo shows that the SCR is on the negative pole of the charging battery. The Zener is correct in its position as its meant to require that the voltage get high enough to break over the zeners rated voltage and then trigger the gate. The LED's were wrong tho and needed to be reversed to let the positive potential get up to the Zener or it might never fire. (it it did it would probably be due to the LED's burning out and then it would end up being on all the time, dead short.)

Thanks for the info.
Gene

Gene,
First the hall that I am using I got at DigiKey, P/N 365-1003-nd.


Second I believe John set this circuit up to charge on the neg. side of the
battery, but maybe he can address that.
Also did the zener need to be turned around as well??

There is someone on this forum that has the 3 coil Bedini motor,
that has it running on this circuit. How well it runs is another question.
I would not go that small, for the time you will put into this. Find an
old bike, somewhere. Go to a bike shop and ask them. Lots of times
they throw older ones away.
My wheel has to stock bearings in them, and it spins a long while after
turning it off.

Yes, Both magnets in there. I posted a while back the spec.s on that.
Same Ceramics that every one uses on the monopoles.

Mark

[Rl2003]

Hi Mark,

I see. A 6inch diameter aluminum rotor is about 11lbs... a bit more than a bike wheel. I don't have another rotor on hand but was just curious if that was plausible. I do have an 8inch diameter x 3inch thick aluminum round that I was planning to get machined into a rotor at some point... its maybe 15lbs or so.

So momentum=inertia=weight on the rotor. This would be to allow the "DC pulses" to even out huh while still maintaining rotation within a limited range of RPM.

I do have a company nearby that has the big wooden spools outside... but I couldn't fit one of those in my car if I wanted to. They're like 4 feet in diameter and a few feet tall.

I found the Hall sensor from this thread as being noted to be the ATS137-pl-a-a from Mouser. (back on page 30.)

I've also noted your comment to reverse the LED's on the output stage, which makes sense since they are otherwise blocking the discharge to the gate of the SCR. cool. Thanks for the correction.

Is your bike wheel using ceramic magnets for the face and neos behind it?

Anyone make a bike wheel with abec 7 rated bearings?

Thanks again.
Gene

Gene,
First the hall that I am using I got at DigiKey, P/N 365-1003-nd.


Second I believe John set this circuit up to charge on the neg. side of the
battery, but maybe he can address that.
Also did the zener need to be turned around as well??

There is someone on this forum that has the 3 coil Bedini motor,
that has it running on this circuit. How well it runs is another question.
I would not go that small, for the time you will put into this. Find an
old bike, somewhere. Go to a bike shop and ask them. Lots of times
they throw older ones away.
My wheel has to stock bearings in them, and it spins a long while after
turning it off.

Yes, Both magnets in there. I posted a while back the spec.s on that.
Same Ceramics that every one uses on the monopoles.

Mark

[genessc]

Hi Mark,

I see. A 6inch diameter aluminum rotor is about 11lbs... a bit more than a bike wheel. I don't have another rotor on hand but was just curious if that was plausible. I do have an 8inch diameter x 3inch thick aluminum round that I was planning to get machined into a rotor at some point... its maybe 15lbs or so.

So momentum=inertia=weight on the rotor. This would be to allow the "DC pulses" to even out huh while still maintaining rotation within a limited range of RPM.

I do have a company nearby that has the big wooden spools outside... but I couldn't fit one of those in my car if I wanted to. They're like 4 feet in diameter and a few feet tall.

I found the Hall sensor from this thread as being noted to be the ATS137-pl-a-a from Mouser. (back on page 30.)

I've also noted your comment to reverse the LED's on the output stage, which makes sense since they are otherwise blocking the discharge to the gate of the SCR. cool. Thanks for the correction.

Is your bike wheel using ceramic magnets for the face and neos behind it?

Anyone make a bike wheel with abec 7 rated bearings?

Thanks again.
Gene

Like John has said "this needs to be on a larger scale", or more weigth than a
bike wheel. This needs momentuim to work with. I will be adding some thing
to my wheel, I just haven't done it.
Power and Phone company's give away those big spools. I bevieve they would
work for someone on a limited buget. Just take off one side and use that. You could make two.
Every one needs to build this, it doesn't have to be costly. Just build it..

Mark