Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_K]

Vissie,

You are right. I firstly had the Zener in forward bias mode. When I turned it around the SCR switched 4V higher. I will draw a schematic and try and get you accurate readings. I do remember that the cathode of the Zener is going to the anode of the SCR. When it was running on 12V, the cap was dumping at 21V.


John K.

John K
I cannot agree with that zener in forward bias mode. A zener in forward bias act like a normal diode with the forward bias voltage drop of about 0.7V.
So it should switch at 3V(led) +3V(led) + 0.7V(diode) +0.7V(scr bias) = 7.4V above battery voltage, which it does.
You can replace that zener with a normal diode and it should switch at the same voltage
If you now turn that zener around the circuit will switch at 3V +3V + 4.7V +0.7V = 11.4V above battery voltage.(47.4V). Your cap is rated 50V so it should be ok.
Could you please verify that for me
Cheers
Vissie

[nvisser]

John K
I cannot agree with that zener in forward bias mode. A zener in forward bias act like a normal diode with the forward bias voltage drop of about 0.7V.
So it should switch at 3V(led) +3V(led) + 0.7V(diode) +0.7V(scr bias) = 7.4V above battery voltage, which it does.
You can replace that zener with a normal diode and it should switch at the same voltage
If you now turn that zener around the circuit will switch at 3V +3V + 4.7V +0.7V = 11.4V above battery voltage.(47.4V). Your cap is rated 50V so it should be ok.
Could you please verify that for me
Cheers
Vissie

[John_K]

John K.'s S1GT

Hi All,

I Hope you all had a good Christmas. Unfortunately I came down with the flu on the first day of my holidays but managed to spare a few hours in the shed on my "S1GT".

I now have it running on some good deep cycle batteries, configured for 36V on the front and back end. I ran it all day. The front end settled into 36.7V whilst the back end would not get above 39.7V. The cap is now 13,600uF 50V and dumps in just under a second. After resting for an hour the primaries recovered to 37.0V whilst the secondary bank is at 39.2V.

The SCR is now triggered with a 1N4732 (4.7V 1W zener) in series with 2 x super bright LEDs which dumps at around 8V over the top of the battery voltage.

One very interesting observation - the shield on the main coil has been permanently magnetized and shows that it is a MONOPOLE South pole ALWAYS! I could only pick this up with my compass when I had the coil and the bonded shield on my bench away from any other magnets. Weird!!

Back to bed...


John K.

[chasson321]

Apples and Oranges

Well spotted Mike......you are indeed correct ( i had multiplied by the 24 when there is no need )..and the new numbers compute to.....

1,300,000 (FWB ) / 51,840,000 (house) = 1 / 40 (a smidge under 40)

so you would need just under 40 FWB's to power a house for a day

Are we comparing apples to oranges here? The FWB is sending power to the Capacitor. However, the capacitor is pulsing the battery bank. Question is: Is this all that we will get in return? John talks about an Enviromental amp effect. With conditioned batteries will not the net available power be more than the 1.5 million joules coming straight from the capacitor?

Tim

[ren]

Hey Vissie,

I think those answers were in reply to some questions I asked about the axial portion. I asked where the axial electromagnets got their trigger from. The way I read his reply was that the source (battery) provides the means or power for the triggering of these axial coils. As he indicated a pulse every dot and not every magnet has a dot I guess there is another means to trigger this event, perhaps another hall sensor. The hall sensor would need power from the source (battery) to switch these axial coils so it fits in with the above. Maybe its this or something else, but I think we need to focus on the basic radial arrangement first. I got hung up on the axial arrangement trying to figure it out only to find out its something different again....

Ive nearly got a basic 1/2 circuit and rotor ready. Just working on the timing wheel.

Regards

[Rl2003]

Greetings Rl2003,

For clarification sake, I believe your talking about the acrylic disc I have labeled in the photos?

Please correct me if I have this wrong, nothing worse than thinking I have started to get a handle on this and than start giving bad advise. (the blind leading the blind)

Thanks Mike
[/QUOTE]

Yes, Thats it. Your right its back in there. It was very hard to see even when
looking for it. I havent got that far on my replication yet.
Mark P.

[Michael Kishline]

Trigger Magnets on 10 Coil Side

[/QUOTE]

Greetings Rl2003,

For clarification sake, I believe your talking about the acrylic disc I have labeled in the photos?

Please correct me if I have this wrong, nothing worse than thinking I have started to get a handle on this and than start giving bad advise. (the blind leading the blind)

Thanks Mike

[Rl2003]

[/QUOTE]

[nvisser]

[Michael Kishline]

Dwell Magnet Positioning

Matt brought this to my attention.
It looks like the round magnets for the hall sensor are in between the the connecting bars that run to the outer magnets .
http://fan1701.com/stuff/Bedini/Swit...wheel_FULL.jpg.
Has anybody got a better photo so that we can confirm this?
If it is like that and the hall is mounted in between two timing magnets while the wheel is stationary, does it mean that the 3 coils will fire in the axact position as Jeremy illustrated?
Also in this drawing the slave coils could be wired to atract. Not sure yet.

Hi Vissie,
I did here John B. say the dwell timing magnets were positioned between the wheel spokes.
But it looks like the magnets are not exactly between the spokes, just a bit offset.

Photos to confirm

Also, I remember the Hall positioned up to the inside ring of magnets as indicated in the photo, you can see it blurred through the acrylic directly above the black timing mark.

p.s. I believe the Dwell Magnets are for the re-gauging coils and magnets located on the hub not the large coils.

Merry Christmas, Mike

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

It's Christmas eve by us now.
To everybody that do Christmas, I wish you a happy Christmas.
Happy holidays to all.

Thank you Vissie. Merry Christmas to you, your family, and all of the fine folks in this forum. May the year 2011 be as exciting as 2010 in our research efforts.

Merry Christmas and a happy new year.

Jeff

[nvisser]

Happy Christmas

It's Christmas eve by us now.
To everybody that do Christmas, I wish you a happy Christmas.
Happy holidays to all.

[nvisser]

Hall timing and dwell

Matt brought this to my attention.
It looks like the round magnets for the hall sensor are in between the the connecting bars that run to the outer magnets .
http://fan1701.com/stuff/Bedini/Swit...wheel_FULL.jpg.
Has anybody got a better photo so that we can confirm this?
If it is like that and the hall is mounted in between two timing magnets while the wheel is stationary, does it mean that the 3 coils will fire in the axact position as Jeremy illustrated?
Also in this drawing the slave coils could be wired to atract. Not sure yet.

[John_K]

In post #57 JB shows 3 halls and dwell timing. 3 pulses, small, medium and a large one. This is just an illustration of the 3 coils on the bottom, correct, we are not working with 3 halls.

I'm sorry if these question are stupid but I'm really trying to wrap my head around this and am going back thru the whole thread to try and comprehend the function of everything. Please help me out.

Thanks, Mark

Mark,

No, this is an illustration of the hall timing on the timing wheel. Nothing to do with the 3 coils on the bottom. 1 hall, 3 different dwells depending on how much of the timing magnets passes the hall.


John K.

[John_K]

Hi Vissie,

I don't know if I'm right or not, I'm still messing around with the timing. The switch not always be on. As long as there is a gap in between the magnets is cannot be. At best you can probably get a 80% duty cycle.

But WHAT IF, we switch the coil on just past TDC. (23 degrees past the previous magnets) This will push the rotor magnet away. Then we switch the coil off just before TDC on the next magnet. When the poles flip on the coil, wouldn't it suck the next magnet in? So the rotor works in repulsion AND attraction mode...

But hen again, WHAT IF we flip the polarity of the rotor magnets (with the neo on the back of it). What would this do and how can we use this to our advantage?

Just throwing a line in the pond...


John K,

Hi John
You said:
"I think that the timing wheel magnets are closer than 1 width apart. It's important that the fields can overlap. That way you can get a >50% duty cycle on the hall if you need it