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  • totoalas
    replied
    Originally posted by ehsanco1062 View Post
    Hi Almaz

    here is the link to the forum that you can get mor information about this heavy duty radiant charger


    International Alternative Energy Center - Hydrogen from Tap Water @ 1,111 hz - HHO Pulse Cha - Powered by ForumCo.com - The Forum Company

    good luck
    Hi eshan
    Can you post your circuit here in this forum... I ve collected some parts but would like to understand the circuit for HHO

    thanks

    totoalas

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    Originally posted by Almaz View Post
    Anybody know about this design which doesn't even use 555 to create square wave frequency? There is a transformer and pulse pickup coil. The pulse pickup wire allows the circuit to match the impedance of whatever you're charging so the circuit will automatically adjust to what you're charging. I don't know what the circuit looks like but I'm very interested. If anybody got some info about it, please post it here.

    HHO Pulse Charger V2.0 - Heavy Duty Radiant Charger - YouTube

    High Voltage Electrolysis - YouTube
    Hi Almaz

    here is the link to the forum that you can get mor information about this heavy duty radiant charger


    International Alternative Energy Center - Hydrogen from Tap Water @ 1,111 hz - HHO Pulse Cha - Powered by ForumCo.com - The Forum Company

    good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • Almaz
    replied
    Anybody know about this design which doesn't even use 555 to create square wave frequency? There is a transformer and pulse pickup coil. The pulse pickup wire allows the circuit to match the impedance of whatever you're charging so the circuit will automatically adjust to what you're charging. I don't know what the circuit looks like but I'm very interested. If anybody got some info about it, please post it here.

    HHO Pulse Charger V2.0 - Heavy Duty Radiant Charger - YouTube

    High Voltage Electrolysis - YouTube
    Last edited by Almaz; 04-13-2012, 09:31 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    @blackchisel

    Thank you, too, for all the assistance you have offered in the last couple of months, most helpful!
    It's been a pleasure

    Vtech
    Last edited by blackchisel97; 03-28-2012, 01:29 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    @blackchisel

    Thank you, too, for all the assistance you have offered in the last couple of months, most helpful!

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    I think it's worth a try. I'm glad I did. Haven't really built enough copper oscillators to truly know / compare. I'll have a look at the sniffer coil and C/E on the AC side tonight and make a short vid, have a look at the spike. Seems to charge good though, runs cool. i used all mechanical connections so I can't really tell you how it solders up.
    It will not solder. No matter how well you clean aluminum it will attract an oxygen and form thin layer of oxide on the surface. It can be welded but in argon shield.
    The only way is to connect in screw terminals.

    Thanks for sharing vid

    Vtech

    Leave a comment:


  • totoalas
    replied
    Ritalie Hv Hho / Radiant Charger

    hI TO ALL

    Just want to know if someone had tried this circuit with off the shelf components

    thanks

    totoalas

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    Aluminum Air Core SS (MSG) Tesla Switch Oscillator 3T

    I finally got my head wrapped around the Tesla Switch variant by (Ossie Callanan is it?). Very nice mod to SS SSG. Can't see going back after this initial test.

    SSG TS (SS MSG 3T) Aluminum Air Core Experiment Pt. 5 - YouTube

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    I think it's worth a try. I'm glad I did. Haven't really built enough copper oscillators to truly know / compare. I'll have a look at the sniffer coil and C/E on the AC side tonight and make a short vid, have a look at the spike. Seems to charge good though, runs cool. i used all mechanical connections so I can't really tell you how it solders up.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by kcarring View Post
    This is the same aluminum wire as I used, same vendor. He also says 7500+ ft. or so for around $100 delivered. one thing that is nice about the aluminum is, when you letz it, it's stronger than you'd think. I imagined it snapping during the process, being AL and not CU. But it did letz pretty tight actually, and no breaks.

    My roll was a bit short and he was very apologetic and said he would more than double make up for it next order, so I figured that was good enough.

    One thing I learned though, if you want to use smaller spools like I did, you need to know how much is going to fit, and I would never order "1000 ft. for 10 * 100 ft. winds" again, in other words, I was 50 ft short, and the entire screw up forced me to go from 9 transistors to 4, because I thought I'd have 5 filar on coil, and another 5 filar on another... no such luck, ended up with 5 on one, and 4 on the other, (which changed the LETz'd gauage number of turns, impedence, inductance... everything...)so I just built a 5 filar 4T instead.

    Moral of the story; buy at least an additional 100 ft or so when doing large builds. And try to have some kind of idea how much is going to fit on your spool before you wind it.

    Live and Learn
    You got me thinking... I have unfinished 6 coiler with 6" rotor mainly because the cost of copper. I was planning to have 6 + 1 strands of AWG 18 on each. That's over 4,000' of copper.
    Maybe I'll get just enough to make one coil and compare with the one I already have

    Thanks
    Vtech

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    Patrick, this is Canadian seller, also has smaller quantities - 100, 200ft - 18 AWG Magnet Wire (Enameled Insulated Wire) 4.5 lb (2 kg), 1 mm diam, 3000 ft | eBay

    Vtech
    This is the same aluminum wire as I used, same vendor. He also says 7500+ ft. or so for around $100 delivered. one thing that is nice about the aluminum is, when you letz it, it's stronger than you'd think. I imagined it snapping during the process, being AL and not CU. But it did letz pretty tight actually, and no breaks.

    My roll was a bit short and he was very apologetic and said he would more than double make up for it next order, so I figured that was good enough.

    One thing I learned though, if you want to use smaller spools like I did, you need to know how much is going to fit, and I would never order "1000 ft. for 10 * 100 ft. winds" again, in other words, I was 50 ft short, and the entire screw up forced me to go from 9 transistors to 4, because I thought I'd have 5 filar on coil, and another 5 filar on another... no such luck, ended up with 5 on one, and 4 on the other, (which changed the LETz'd gauage number of turns, impedence, inductance... everything...)so I just built a 5 filar 4T instead.

    Moral of the story; buy at least an additional 100 ft or so when doing large builds. And try to have some kind of idea how much is going to fit on your spool before you wind it.

    Live and Learn
    Last edited by kcarring; 03-24-2012, 09:45 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    hey there Zero :-)
    I had some heat on my primary transistor and my pot with my 18 gauge 100' coil build, I added another 100' - no more heat. I'm still trying to find the balance, it's coming more clear each day.

    Guy's there is a spot where your coil and cap want to resonate naturally.
    if you remove the diode and get your pot close to the natural resonance, then remove the pot (no resistance parallel to cap) your cap and coil will resonate.
    this is not necessarily the ideal spot, you still have to have the right cap prior to the trigger ie the best "ON" time for your battery bank. once you get in this zone, however, put the diode back, drop the freq a bit and you're there.

    Patrick

    can anyone tell me where to get some of that enamel coated aluminum wire?
    Patrick, this is Canadian seller, also has smaller quantities - 100, 200ft - 18 AWG Magnet Wire (Enameled Insulated Wire) 4.5 lb (2 kg), 1 mm diam, 3000 ft | eBay

    Vtech

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by ZeropointEnergy View Post
    Hey Patrick,

    I have a 5k 50W rheostat on order since the 5W potentiometer does heat up when I'm pushing double that through it
    I have played around with a few different variables of resistance and capacitance to the base of the transistor to control on/off time, more experimentation is needed. (I'm using leads to clip on the mods to the trigger circuit in parallel)

    I had not used a trigger as large as 18 gauge but will order a large roll to give a new 7 transistor SS SSG circuit a 100% effort, with the CPD mod and 2W or larger resistors. My aim is simple, eliminate all heat while fully saturating the coil.
    In the past 2 SS SSG circuit I have heat in the coil or pot that needs to be rectified, larger gauge output leads has eliminated most of the issue in the smaller builds, pushing 1-2A @ 12-24V is going to a new senario.

    Then can build a voltage regulator circuit/cap bank combo to hook up to a solar panel in place of the primary. Thus far, battery to battery is more efficient

    Regards
    Zero
    hey there Zero :-)
    I had some heat on my primary transistor and my pot with my 18 gauge 100' coil build, I added another 100' - no more heat. I'm still trying to find the balance, it's coming more clear each day.

    Guy's there is a spot where your coil and cap want to resonate naturally.
    if you remove the diode and get your pot close to the natural resonance, then remove the pot (no resistance parallel to cap) your cap and coil will resonate.
    this is not necessarily the ideal spot, you still have to have the right cap prior to the trigger ie the best "ON" time for your battery bank. once you get in this zone, however, put the diode back, drop the freq a bit and you're there.

    Patrick

    can anyone tell me where to get some of that enamel coated aluminum wire?

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by mklimesh View Post
    Hi Patrick,
    I think that what you show with multiple spikes then a rest period, repeated over and over like you show is a very efficient way to charge a battery. The way you do it is way slicker than how I have been doing it. I've been using a seperate timer circuit to gate it on and off, I'll have to try your setup. Have you put a scope on JB's "10 Amp 12V Battery Charger (AC Power Input)" ? (+_+)

    Mike Klimesh

    Hi Mike,
    I came "this" close to purchasing that charger. then I started getting some fantastic results w/ my own chargers... I am curious though, I would love to see as much on the scope of that charger as you are willing to upload... :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • totoalas
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    How is the schematic exactly cause I cannot understand what you guys did here?
    Did you charge a cap from an SS and then running the SS with the cap?
    Thanks
    tHi
    the schematic is from the joule ringer Yes when I switched off the load the the voltage rise in the battery

    Leave a comment:

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