3 Battery Generating System

[OrionLightShip]

Matt,
Are you talking about the circuit you posted in post # 2519? If you already have the parts list put together, I'll take one of those. By the way, my wife has her heart set on an Audrino with all kinds of accessories. She cracks me up sometimes. Anyway, she ordered it on Amazon, so I guess that's what I am getting. At least the kit she is buying comes with books. I haven't messed with "C" in a few years...like ten, so it will be interesting.

Dave

Arduino environment is so easy. The rust will fall off of you in a few minutes and c will course through your veins again. fun, easy, powerful.

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,
Are you talking about the circuit you posted in post # 2519? If you already have the parts list put together, I'll take one of those.
Dave

Kind of here:


You might want to check your motor setup with the scope and see what frequency it is running so you have a place to start. Use a 50% duty cycle and a square wave. You still have that frequency generator, dont ya?

Matt

[Turion]

Circuit

I DON'T have a frequency generator, but I will as soon as Frys Electronics opens this morning. It is something I've been meaning to get for a while, so I might as well do it now and then I'll have it. LOL. Soon I will have everything I need. Then I will just have to figure out what to do with it all.

Dave

And I mean how to USE it as WELL as where to put it. I am so excited that the next thing we are building up at our property is my shop. But if I move everything up there, I will have nothing at home to work with! Can't win!

Dave

[Turion]

For those of you interested in using motors to balance both sides of the bridge, Here is something someone suggested:

"A short time back, someone on your thread made a comment in relation to Duncan’s Wheatstone bridge. Whoever it was thought there might be some advantage to putting another motor in the other arm of the bridge to obtain a better balance. They then went onto mention that the two armatures might have to be mechanically coupled together with the two commutators pretty well aligned.
I have been thinking about this for a while for a few weeks and while out walking the dog this morning I may have solved that problem. A four pole, four brush motor might be able to be rewound to be a dual pulse motor with the two sets of coils offset by 90 degrees. I have a 24V 1300W motor lined up for this application"

Dave

[tachyoncatcher]

More Efficiency

Kind of here:


You might want to check your motor setup with the scope and see what frequency it is running so you have a place to start. Use a 50% duty cycle and a square wave. You still have that frequency generator, dont ya?

Matt

I tried this setup with the original 3BGS setup and a "good" bad battery. I found a 30% duty cycle more promising, but still, just efficient. My primaries still drained. I used a MJL21194 for the switching, so I couldn't get into the really high frequencies.

IMAO, if this was a simple matter of catching the right frequency using a sig gen, this would be done already. There is an additional component that the motors provide that we have failed to duplicate in a oscillator/coil setup that must be present for the real power.

Pulse motors do work better in that once you get a good one, you get consistent results. I'm with Carrol in regards to what happens when you physically load the motor. You slow it down. You decrease the frequency, you increase the amplitude, the brushes spark more, the magnetic fields of the motor coils increase in strength, it moves more current through the wires, the magnetic field of the wires increase. I think we are missing the magnetic coupling that takes place between the motor and batteries in our analysis of this system.

Randy

[Turion]

And I was hoping it would be simple! LOL. Oh well. I still need that frequency generator, and I have some transistors that may let me check out the higher frequencies. Might as well rule this completely out. I am going to copy and paste something here from my very first post on this forum:

If you have an analogue meter on battery 3, you should see the voltage jump (when the switch is thrown) to 24+ volts. It will go slowly down to around 18 volts, and THEN the motor will start. The voltage will go down to around 12 or 13 volts, and stabilize. IF the voltage continues to go down to around 9 volts, and the motor shuts off, the voltage jumps back up to 24 volts and the cycle repeats, you probably have the perfect battery.

This experiment is to make sure you have the RIGHT kind of battery. At this point you need to stop and let your primary batteries sit and rest overnight, recharging them if they don't recover. You also need to drain battery three by connecting a light to it and leaving it overnight.

AFTER DOING ALL THAT AND LETTING THE SYSTEM REST OVERNIGHT, reconnect everything. Flip the switch to start the system and you will find that this time the motor starts IMMEDIATELY. Shut it off, add a small load like an auto dome light or even an auto headlight...something to keep battery three from charging. I only had you start it so you could ponder the following.

So…..if the delay in starting you saw yesterday were because of a difference in potential between the set of two batteries in series and the single battery, when could that potential possibly be GREATER than when you have just charged the two main batteries while at the same time, discharging the bad battery all night long with a bulb on it?

If the delay was because there was not enough juice in the bad battery, how could there possibly be LESS juice than there is right now, when you have drained the bad battery ALL NIGHT LONG. It should have NO juice. None. So you should be having to put some juice into the battery for the motor to start. It should take LONGER to start than it did yesterday, and yet the motor started immediately.

It is my belief that we are talking about some kind of magnetic alignment that takes place in a bad battery and continues as long as there is a load on the battery, and also lasts for a couple days after the load is removed. If you can let it sit for a couple days, hook it back into the system, flip the switch, and once again the motor will NOT start immediately.

Sooooo, did the bad battery "resulfate" when you let it rest for a day? Or WAS there a magnetic alignment of some kind that took place in the battery as I theorized? Testing the specific gravity of the battery before starting the first time, at the end of the run, and after letting it rest might shed some light.

Dave

[blackchisel97]

I DON'T have a frequency generator, but I will as soon as Frys Electronics opens this morning.

.... I will have nothing at home to work with! - Don't say that loud, wife maybe listening

Dave

I have both, a sweep and RF generators but got something similar last year and I'm very happy with. There are different models with sweep and higher freq. but this is an inexpensive tool for many experiments - 2MHz DDS Function Signal Generator Source Module Wave | eBay

Vtech

[Turion]

I have one of those!! When I got it the screen had cracked in shipment and there was a big dark spot on it, so I got my money back from ebay. The seller wanted me to pay for shipping back to have it fixed and I said no way. You should have packaged it in more than an envelope when you sent it. Not my fault and I'm not paying. I haven't even tried it and it may even work. I forgot all about it!! Oh, I remember the problem! It came with absolutely no instructions at all, and I was afraid I'd blow it up trying to figure out how to even use it. I turned it on just now, and it works, but Most of the important info on the screed is "behind "the dark spot. It says F=(dark spot) and (dark spot)=SINE LOL.

[blackchisel97]

I have one of those!! When I got it the screen had cracked in shipment and there was a big dark spot on it, so I got my money back from ebay. The seller wanted me to pay for shipping back to have it fixed and I said no way. You should have packaged it in more than an envelope when you sent it. Not my fault and I'm not paying. I haven't even tried it and it may even work. I forgot all about it!! Oh, I remember the problem! It came with absolutely no instructions at all, and I was afraid I'd blow it up trying to figure out how to even use it. I turned it on just now, and it works, but Most of the important info on the screed is "behind "the dark spot.

He could just send you a new display . It plugs into terminal and there is no soldering involved. Mine was wrapped like a baby and shipped in a box. There are many sellers and it is good idea to check their feedback. Product could be the same but they may be careless with shipping.
Terminal connections from the left should be - TTL +, - Ext (freq. counter) +, - Out +

F - Function= Sine Wave. When you turn it on unit will go into default "0" memory setting. Left upper button will move cursor for freq. and pot allows to select a number for each. Lower left button will allow selection of the output wave, duty, memory or counter function. Amplitude pot is on the right.

From such you can trigger 4426 dual driver and one or two Mosfets to do the job you want.

Vtech

[a.king21]

Clear thinking

If you put a capacitor across the motor the effect stops.
If you put a resistor across the motor the effect stops.
Both of these actions impair the magnetic component of the setup.

If you put a physical load on a motor the effect increases (provided you are in balance)
This action increases the magnetic effect. More power surges through the motor, the sparks become brighter. The magnetic field increases.


If you simply use a frequency generator it doesn't work because there is no magnetic effect.
So we come to the following conclusion:

Assuming balance in the system: If the electrical effect is greater than the magnetic effect = no OU.
If the magnetic effect is greater than the electrical effect = OU

So the conclusion is that we need to gate the Bloch wall to get OU.
But we knew that already... we keep forgetting, that's all.

In the Benitez system you need a fast transformer to get the effect. Same principle.

So my suggestion to the "pulse Arduino" guys (and gals) is to get an ISOLATION transformer with a ferrite or Cobalt core and pulse that. It will work.
But we already knew that didn't we? It's the basis of Magnacoaster's patent.

When we have a radio with an aerial we all KNOW that putting in a good earth gets far greater reception. Why?
We all forgot about the MAGNETIC effect. Yes - the Earth's magnetic field.
When we put mats under the bad batteries and align the batteries we do one of two things.
We either increase the magnetic effect in the circuit or we decrease the electrical inteference in the circuit. Either way the magnetic effect increases.
So we all marvel at Leedskalins PMH ( which I have built 2 of). We are distracted that after 2 days or more we can get a light bulb to blink. We know that it was the magnetic effect which stored the energy.
So my conclusion is that OU exists in the magnetic effect of the circuit. The electrical side of things is to produce the "magnetic increase" in the system.
So increase the magnetic effect and therefore increase the efficiency of the system and get greater OU.

[Duncan]

For those of you interested in using motors to balance both sides of the bridge, Here is something someone suggested:

"A short time back, someone on your thread made a comment in relation to Duncan’s Wheatstone bridge. Whoever it was thought there might be some advantage to putting another motor in the other arm of the bridge to obtain a better balance. They then went onto mention that the two armatures might have to be mechanically coupled together with the two commutators pretty well aligned.
I have been thinking about this for a while for a few weeks and while out walking the dog this morning I may have solved that problem. A four pole, four brush motor might be able to be rewound to be a dual pulse motor with the two sets of coils offset by 90 degrees. I have a 24V 1300W motor lined up for this application"

Dave

Hi David that was also me ... I was thinking that to "balance" then the anti phase "fireing" should be at the same time .. same impedance .. in fact same everything hence I had in mind to two rotors locked ... simply to proove the issue .. with four brushes ? I dont know depends what you have in mind sounds like it should work

[Matthew Jones]

I tried this setup with the original 3BGS setup and a "good" bad battery. I found a 30% duty cycle more promising, but still, just efficient. My primaries still drained. I used a MJL21194 for the switching, so I couldn't get into the really high frequencies.

IMAO, if this was a simple matter of catching the right frequency using a sig gen, this would be done already. There is an additional component that the motors provide that we have failed to duplicate in a oscillator/coil setup that must be present for the real power.

Pulse motors do work better in that once you get a good one, you get consistent results. I'm with Carrol in regards to what happens when you physically load the motor. You slow it down. You decrease the frequency, you increase the amplitude, the brushes spark more, the magnetic fields of the motor coils increase in strength, it moves more current through the wires, the magnetic field of the wires increase. I think we are missing the magnetic coupling that takes place between the motor and batteries in our analysis of this system.

Randy

That was the original setup though... You have an inductor in the circuit.

I put that other drawing up. You could try it with a transformer, then you have your induction. Say for instance you use a larger 12_120 transformer like radio shack sell. Put a 110 bulb and an AC rheostat on the bulb to adjust the load. Then start switch around the frequency of a motor. An Iron transformer can easily run up 250 hz and as low as 50 hz so you should be able to match the frequency of a motor.
If a pulse motor works the spark in the brush's has nothing to do with it. Right?

Or you can just wait around and do the same thing over and over until I get to it.

Matt

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Pulse width modulator

I want to share with you some inventor that was suppressed in india a few years back. Ravi Raju. A water fuel cell replicator. He was using a PWM to control his water capacitor. The funny thing about this is that he needs to ''condition the electrodes'' in his WFC to see an overunity effect. He was also using inductors between the output of his PWM and his WFC. Very simple construction. The hardest part was the conditionning part. The water capacitor is the bad battery in the 3BGS and the PWM is the motor. He's done the rotary spark gap (motor) version but with a PWM, it's more stable. Ding Ding Ding! Use a tesla coil configuration for the inductor part and I think it will do the trick. He was also using a ''step up transformer'' right before the inductor in his setup.

http://www.esmhome.org/library/stan-meyer/ravi.pdf

Here's the file for the construction, the conditioning and the schematics for the PWM, transformer and pancake coil. But apparently, a unifilar dual ferrite rod inductor works best for his setup. The bifilar single ferrite rod does heat up after a while.

Youtube videos: RAVI 'S STANLEY MEYER REPLICATION WATER FUEL CELL -008 - YouTube
WFC
WFC CONDITIONING COAT INFO - YouTube
Conditionning

Maybe that's the key.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Old pdf file, cannot find the new one.

The panacea university web site is down. I can't find the updated schematic for the WFC.

That's the D14 one.

If you decide to build the PWM, please do not use the BUZ350 mosfet. Use the IRFP460 instead. More power output capabilities and less heat.

[duranza]

I want to share with you some inventor that was suppressed in india a few years back. Ravi Raju. A water fuel cell replicator. He was using a PWM to control his water capacitor. The funny thing about this is that he needs to ''condition the electrodes'' in his WFC to see an overunity effect. He was also using inductors between the output of his PWM and his WFC. Very simple construction. The hardest part was the conditionning part. The water capacitor is the bad battery in the 3BGS and the PWM is the motor. He's done the rotary spark gap (motor) version but with a PWM, it's more stable. Ding Ding Ding! Use a tesla coil configuration for the inductor part and I think it will do the trick. He was also using a ''step up transformer'' right before the inductor in his setup.

http://www.esmhome.org/library/stan-meyer/ravi.pdf

Here's the file for the construction, the conditioning and the schematics for the PWM, transformer and pancake coil. But apparently, a unifilar dual ferrite rod inductor works best for his setup. The bifilar single ferrite rod does heat up after a while.


Youtube videos: RAVI 'S STANLEY MEYER REPLICATION WATER FUEL CELL -008 - YouTube
WFC
WFC CONDITIONING COAT INFO - YouTube
Conditionning

Maybe that's the key.

It is really funny I was just talking to David about this. I have a thread about conditioning the tubes at overunity. I have given the thought about using the cell as the bad battery as it wants to act as a battery, but will not hold a charge.


WFC Tubes conditioning