3 Battery Generating System

[Duncan]

March ever onwards

WoW man! What a post! I will forget about the PWM then and focus on the bad battery and the motor. As simple as that. Thanks duncan.

Definition of EMF, ELF, VHF, UHF, RF, electromagnetic field, frequency & wavelengths

[erfinder]

I find it very difficult to agree with you regarding resonance and other related topics, however, in the same light I'm not in the position to disagree with you either...with that being said...I have a question for you...

I have a machine which charges its supply back without any special circuitry...all that has to be done is I remove the hall sensor so that the device is no longer being driven as a motor...when this is done, the motor sends what appears to me to be a current pulse back towards the supply. The most spectacular results I have obtained thus far with this mechanism was once when I drove the setup with 100v. The device was connected to the supply and ran for roughly 30 seconds, at the end of this time frame the hall sensor was removed and the buffer capacitor (capacitor paralleled with the supply) shot up to 250v! Now according to my poor calculations....disregarding what the device needs to get it to the proper speed where the anomaly takes place, I start with 100v in a 4700uF capacitor, roughly 23.5 joules were required to charge that cap to that potential..... When I stop pulsing after 30 seconds, the capacitor resting voltage is instantly increased to 250v....to charge that cap up to that voltage one would need 143.8 joules...the difference between starting and ending joule values is heart and soul of my question.

My question.....where is this 123,3 joules which ends up in my supply capacitor coming from?

I am not asking for you to tell me how my device works, I know how it works, I am asking for your opinion regarding where you "think" the power for charging the cap is coming from... I have come to the conclusion that for this cap to charge like it does (instant voltage rise! a massive current has to be flowing!) I believe the capacity of the coil is being modified owing to how my device is configured....I believe the capacity is somehow transitioning from a few nano-farads to a few thousand micro-farads. Inductance can be varied in many different ways, however no one discusses how capacitance of an coil can be varied....it is assumed that the capacitance of a coil is limited to the turns between wires...this in my opinion is bull****! But I'm not a competent authority so all I can offer is speculation....your opinion would be much appreciated...

Regards

[Matthew Jones]

Thanks Carroll,

So nobody is running SLA's yet or FLA's that we know of and getting any good results?? Oops! Well, I will be giving it a go too. Hope I have better results than Matt did.

Dave

SLA's are generally AGM batteries. Unless you shake them and hear the fluid sloshing I would assume they are AGM's anyway.

A dc brushed motor creates a kinda multi-frequency, one sided, sine wave(not sure of the terminology). A bouncy DC. Now add sparks and you get very small wave forms mixed in......ect
Good Luck,
Randy

No your not looking at it correct. There is no multi frequency in the motor. Just ripple.
You cannot see the 0 volt point in it and give the impression that 2 things are going on at one time. Really all you are seeing is the current start to flow out of the inductor, the voltage rise then being abruptly cut off while at the same time you are looking at the next inductor rising in voltage as the current starts to flow. Your just looking at multiple inductors being charged at separate times but overlapping overall.
Then you may get small noise from the brush's introduced over all of it.

Your just causing a ripple.

The point I am trying to get with you guys is what part of that ripple is doing to work on the power that is needed?

You gotta come up with something better than a motor, to start finding that.
Without looking a those "Thick Theories" are just babble on a bulletin board.

Testing leads to the answer.

I won't bring it up anymore.

Matt

[OrionLightShip]

Corrections

I find it very difficult to agree with you regarding resonance and other related topics, however, in the same light I'm not in the position to disagree with you either...

I made the mistake being asleep when I chose to first watch duncan's video and I made the assumption that trace 2 was the current and that he had shifted the sine and cosine back into phase somehow because of the battery. My hopes for a var to va conversion were unfounded it would seem.

I know that Tesla said you could add capacitance by shorting or shunting the top of the coil. It's in his colorado springs notes somewhere.

Also, is it possible that under the right conditions, for the wire to momentarily adopt the property of isotropic capacitance?

Seems unlikely I know, but that is one serious anomaly you have there.

I'm sorry Duncan but try as I may, I am not qualified to understand the meaning of "phase reversal harmonic and overtone relationship."

Perhaps you mean a standing wave caused by the reflection from high impedance? For instance, the kind of thing that would happen with a shorted coax line?

In any case, all I can see now is two separate voltage/current pairs in phase. They are as separate as ac on dc from what I can see.

If I could throw high voltage on a faraday disk and combine them, the game is over, but it doesn't work like that.

I would be only too happy to come to an understanding and my Skype is always open to you.

<<<you all seem quite incapable of doing that simple thing>>>

It isn't always quite that "simple", and perhaps even if the least qualified of us, meaning me, can look at the whole......it doesn't help because there is no real understanding of what is happening underneath.

As far as David and Randy posting my theory, this is the last place I would post an unproven theory. Not because of who I am, but what others can be.

I should have used my words better!

I did say they could do what ever they wanted with it.

If it helps their system then it belongs to everyone. If not, then it just reverts to being my stupid theory.

It isn't meant to throw lightning bolts. It is meant for small signal injection into batteries as also seen in a LaserSaber video about the joule ringer crossover possible kapanadze effects.

There were also videos by dragon or lenz and woopy jump about a kacher coil system and a copper plate next to a battery if my memory serves.

Also, Randy is using an earth ground and a bifilar coil in proximity to the transducer batteries. My idea is a mere extension of what has already been done.

What I believe Tesla was doing is my belief. I'm not asking anyone to believe anything. It's all in the literature if you look for it with an open mind.

[erfinder]

I made the mistake being asleep when I chose to first watch duncan's video and I made the assumption that trace 2 was the current and that he had shifted the sine and cosine back into phase somehow because of the battery. My hopes for a var to va conversion were unfounded it would seem.

I know that Tesla said you could add capacitance by shorting or shunting the top of the coil. It's in his colorado springs notes somewhere.

Also, is it possible that under the right conditions, for the wire to momentarily adopt the property of isotropic capacitance?

Seems unlikely I know, but that is one serious anomaly you have there.

Hello OrionLightShip,

I haven't watched any of Duncan's videos, I probably should...Duncan can you please provide a link to your channel...

The effect is amazing...I mention it here because I believe its related....I strongly believe that the capacitance of my motor windings are being modified in some heretofore unknown way! I believe the cap is being charged with displacement current...how that's possible I don't know and can only speculate...and I won't do that here..I will say that this massive charging current doesn't produce the Lenz induced drag, ergo, my assuming that I am dealing with displacement current and not electronic current...When my motors are operating in the anomaly zone they generate pure square waves! The wave of the motor literally changes from a sine like wave into a perfect square wave....the wave is so clean it appears as if it was being generated by a signal generator.

I truly believe that this is related to the motor, and positive and or negative splitting aspect of the 3BGS....that's my only reason for posting this here...

Splitting the positive and negative reveals the self oscillating nature of the current(s)....

Regards

[OrionLightShip]

oddities

certainly beyond any understanding I have but I did send a pm

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Forming a crystal battery for bad battery position

Hello, just wanted to know if somebody here has trying to build their own ''bad battery''. Thanks, Jean.

[LutherG]

Perhaps you mean a standing wave caused by the reflection from high impedance? For instance, the kind of thing that would happen with a shorted coax line?

In any case, all I can see now is two separate voltage/current pairs in phase. They are as separate as ac on dc from what I can see.

The above is good! We are inputting DC and getting a pseudo AC out of the motor. Also guys, do NOT take the motor and what is happening for granted! By focusing on no loads or very small loads, the best part of this system remains unseen. I had hoped to illustrate this with my "smoking glove" video but I guess I did a piss-poor job of it.

The motor is indeed generating at the same time that its running! When you first connect a dc motor to a battery what happens? The motor jumps! Why does this happen? It happens because in that first instant that you connect it, the rotor leaps because it has not yet begun generating in opposition to itself! As soon as it begins turning though, it is generating and it reaches an eqilibrium we know as its "idle speed"...

As you begin to draw its generated power out, the motor speeds up! Yet, its not pulling any more current! So the reason it speeds up, is not because its drawing more current as much as it is being relieved of some of its internal opposition... Its not just gaining speed - its gaining real power! You can now add more mechanical load! (How about a Genhead?) Doing that brings the voltage back up. Its NOT drawing down the primaries, and yet, the load has increased both mechanically and electrically! And this is from stuff you don't have to build! As the motor speeds up, it gains tremendous torque - way more torque than I've ever seen any pulse motor generate! The faster it spins, the more it generates! The more it generates, the more you can take from it. Because it is acting as both a motor and a generator, it has something akin to a feedback loop built-in, and the power available grows... The more you take, the more it develops... What motor have you ever seen do that?

Now, this is done with an off-the-shelf industrial motor and an off-the-shelf generator. As we begin to scale up, this is going to take on more meaning - what is happening in the motor with the torque - its amazing. I once told David that I think our biggest problem is going to be having enough load! In my first video (a practice video I never uploaded to youtube) at one point part of my load slips off and the motor abruptly stops because I have the belt pulled pretty tight. As soon as I reconnect the load, the motor takes off like a scalded cat and all my lights are lit nice and bright and the motor is humming right along...

This balancing-side of things (the motor and batteries) opens the door to a motor of moderate size being able to use the power given it, generate power while doing it that we use to our advantage, and allows us to spin a genhead (the "business side" of the equation) with little concern for the lenz effect in the genhead - in fact, that lenz is just the mechanical load we need to raise the voltage between the motor and batteries to keep the voltage node or standing-wave going keeping the voltage lifted across the batteries...

Now, thanks to Randy making an AC battery, we can see what we're getting out of the motor much better and significantly reduce the "fixing" of the "bad battery"... This was a significant move forward for us. We need to continue to observe this system and see what it is telling us about what it is and how its working. There's much more to learn with this simple system... We need to start scaling up and taking advantage of all the extra power available to us...

I believe that we can make this system work on a level where we can run a loaded 12KW genhead powering our home as long as we have enough load on our motor/battery combination to keep the system balanced... And have power to spare... The motor being the heart of the system... My 2 cents for what its worth...

Best regards to all,

Luther

[wsxian2]

[a.king21]

An important point

The simple fact is that we can be cop over 1 but the system will not show it.
Charging and Discharging Lead Acid Batteries
has some info on battery efficiency.
So we can run a load, charge and discharge the batteries but find that after a week the batteries are flat.
The system is OU but the battery charge/discharge cycle is something like 80% efficient. So this system is even better than we think it is.

[a.king21]

wsxian2

Are you saying that all the battery voltages in your system went up?

[wsxian2]

More on 2nd motor

a.king21

It seems so.

To others regarding the 2nd motor setup:

I have hooked up a battery that won't run the motors and it reads zero volts. I am using this as the "Bad" Battery.

Yet I can run a load off of it and the source batteries don't seem to go down. But strange: It reads -19 volts and some times -2 volts.

When it reads -19 volts, the volts seems to go more negative (-19.1, -19.2, -19.3 etc.) and the lamp bulb gets hot.
When the voltage reads -2 volts the lamp bulb cools off and the voltage goes towards zero (more positive --2.0, -1.99, -1.98, etc.).

I think the volt meter is effecting (affecting?) the battery reading. As it changes almost every time I check it (going from -19 to -2).

Just keeping you posted. Strange.

As noted above by a.king21, this may all be related to the lead acid battery cycle - these batteries could be going flat and I don't see it yet due to my runs being short.

Again from the Far West.

[a.king21]

wsxian2

You are confirming something I alerted everyone to: namely that the battery(ies) change polarity. That's the amazing technology we are trying to give birth to here.

[tachyoncatcher]

a.king21

It seems so.

To others regarding the 2nd motor setup:

I have hooked up a battery that won't run the motors and it reads zero volts. I am using this as the "Bad" Battery.

Yet I can run a load off of it and the source batteries don't seem to go down. But strange: It reads -19 volts and some times -2 volts.

When it reads -19 volts, the volts seems to go more negative (-19.1, -19.2, -19.3 etc.) and the lamp bulb gets hot.
When the voltage reads -2 volts the lamp bulb cools off and the voltage goes towards zero (more positive --2.0, -1.99, -1.98, etc.).

I think the volt meter is effecting (affecting?) the battery reading. As it changes almost every time I check it (going from -19 to -2).

Just keeping you posted. Strange.

As noted above by a.king21, this may all be related to the lead acid battery cycle - these batteries could be going flat and I don't see it yet due to my runs being short.

Again from the Far West.

Very Nice wxsian2! You have found a "Good" bad battery. If you continue to test with it using the 3 battery setup, it WILL repair. Try to find a second bad battery that is the same size. Then connect the positives of the two batteries. This arrangement will then be your new "3rd battery". It resists repair. Most have better luck with this arrangement. You will find a drawing of this arrangement in my signature. Congratulations, and welcome to the "I saw it too" club.
Randy

[wsxian2]

more on more on 2nd motor

This battery is now sitting at -3.5 volts after a run. Not sure what to do with a negative voltage battery.

The motor between the negatives (no load) finally started running very slowly (with a slight turn from my hand). It would almost stop and then pick up speed then slow down and then speed up and so on.

The motor between the positives never ran - that's the one with the wheel.

On this last run the voltage was at -2.0 and so I decided to wack the battery and found a spot to hit where the voltage jumped to -19.0 so there is some sort of physical problem with this battery. Later, during the run I could hit the battery at another spot and the voltage would drop to -2.0, and then hit it at the spot and it would jump back to -19.0. So a strange battery.

I went for a walk with the dogs and came back when it became darkish. I could see that the 60w lamp bulb was orange and when felt, it was hot. This was with the battery cable off the bad battery, but with the lamp bulb hooked to the cable which of course was hooked to the primaries bat 1 and bat 2. Needless to say, that reading had gone down a bit. So just a reminder to unhook your load from the system completely when done with a run!

This also indicates to me that the bulb was probably running off the primaries and not off the bad battery while the system was running. So disregard what I had indicated earlier about running a load off the dead bad battery.

Again, from the Far West