My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Cornboy 555]

No Biggy

HI John, They definitely took every bit of his 12dy-2 week delivery INSIDE the US to me when myself and cornboy teamed up, then it sure took a while to get to Australia also, I think over 2 weeks there. So you are in the DeutscheLande no? and coming from West coast US too. Good luck on your delivery soon!

However concerning the extra jumpers, I think I found where I might be able to figure out exactly where one was located but then I heard there was more than one that needs to be made. Can any of the online pictures posted so far be used to draw exactly where they need to be installed. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...

And I think Kogs seemed to say that there were newer corrected T3001 files that have these jumpers incorporated. If these files could be clearly identified, I would gladly get OSHPark to update the boards there also. They should be called V5.2 perhaps?

[IMG][/IMG]

Hey Sampo, the three Jumpers are the three white lines on the board, one just below the driver chip and 2 that feed the opto.

It's no big deal, only takes a minute to do and you can put them underneath if needed.

I to have lot's of Life stuff to deal with at the moment.

Not quite sure what's going on at the gates yet, havn't had time to get back to it, i am sure the gates are occillating, causing heat and doughy, soft, switching.

Purple lady only shows when dead cold, then she dissapears, only to let the orange devil in.

Warm Regards Cornboy

[sampojo]

OSH Park boards, delivery, jumpers and updates

from post 2423
BTW: Still waiting unpatiently for my Oshpark PCBs
JS

HI John, They definitely took every bit of his 12dy-2 week delivery INSIDE the US to me when myself and cornboy teamed up, then it sure took a while to get to Australia also, I think over 2 weeks there. So you are in the DeutscheLande no? and coming from West coast US too. Good luck on your delivery soon!

However concerning the extra jumpers, I think I found where I might be able to figure out exactly where one was located but then I heard there was more than one that needs to be made. Can any of the online pictures posted so far be used to draw exactly where they need to be installed. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...

And I think Kogs seemed to say that there were newer corrected T3001 files that have these jumpers incorporated. If these files could be clearly identified, I would gladly get OSHPark to update the boards there also. They should be called V5.2 perhaps?

[GChilders]

New versions RadiantMotorControl

@all
New versions rmcversion0.0.5 and rmcversion0.0.6


version 0.0.5

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vrflqnht79l190/sketch_RadiantMotorControlVersion0_0_5.ino

version 0.0.6

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyf89vexz5kiroi/sketch_RadiantMotorControlVersion0_0_6.ino

tutorial 0.0.5

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pfd9n400ylty9s/RadiantMotorContol0.0.5Tutorial.rtf

tutorial 0.0.6

https://www.dropbox.com/s/00gle833bzjdtfx/RadiantMotorContol0.0.6Tutorial.rtf

Cheers

Garry

[Cornboy 555]

Hello JohnStone
I have been testing several of the black beauties and trying to get the heat on fets down, NO-GO. I have put NE2U across and even added a small resistor to the neon. Although the resistor helped, she still got way to hot to touch in just a few seconds. I tested other ranges of resistors from 5 to 20 for r3 and its pair. resistance of one works best for me and I wonder if no resistor would help. I am frustrated with the black beauty and am going to wait until you get yours and check them out. I have absolutely no heat with anything on the heavy solder boards so maybe that will help with diagnosis. The black boards will run but not as fast as the heat in fets and resistors seem to go slower as heat gets up there. By the way all this is happening at 12 volts. I kind of feel that putting a blister on the end of my finger is time to turn it off.
Dana

Thanks for the info guys, i will try heavier value gate resistors, and if not good, maybe less resistance gate pull downs, just in case they cant function quick enough to not osscilate gates. On these boards setups, maybe the driver is overdriving the gates?

We'll get this nutted out.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[prochiro]

Hello JohnStone
I have been testing several of the black beauties and trying to get the heat on fets down, NO-GO. I have put NE2U across and even added a small resistor to the neon. Although the resistor helped, she still got way to hot to touch in just a few seconds. I tested other ranges of resistors from 5 to 20 for r3 and its pair. resistance of one works best for me and I wonder if no resistor would help. I am frustrated with the black beauty and am going to wait until you get yours and check them out. I have absolutely no heat with anything on the heavy solder boards so maybe that will help with diagnosis. The black boards will run but not as fast as the heat in fets and resistors seem to go slower as heat gets up there. By the way all this is happening at 12 volts. I kind of feel that putting a blister on the end of my finger is time to turn it off.
Dana

[prochiro]

Hello Cornboy
I use the two test points for upper board testing and for lower board (pulser) , the two resistors out of MIC4452YN with fet section unplugged. Looks like a lot of motor noise mixed with two signals from different parts of the Monster. To start, use PWM_out and PWR_gnd first and push that magic fix it for me button. after you see what you are supposed to see and know that all is correct, learn to set the scope yourself. It is actually fun watching you pull this together as you use your already advanced talent and now just polishing it up. I have a lot of the PCB's put together and am testing several of JS's ideas with high voltage and hard revving. I can rev my larger boards hard all day long with-out problem and still feel that the mass of solder on-board acts as capacitance. Without that solder, I am using NE2U neons to buffer on the commercial black boards and am testing for any heat thru the voltage range. There should be no heat at all in them as in the larger boards. I have found that if using 36 volts and you get even 4 degrees of heat, that spells trouble later on and sooner than later. Use a fan on fets until heat issue is gone, you know this.
Dana

[JohnStone]

Hi Cornboy,
you increasingly master your scope. But I admit theh whole trigger machine is somewhat demanding.
Any coil likes to oscillate along its natural frequency. Like a FET a coil represents a circuit in itself of R,L,C = tank circuti) Therefore it owns a genuine natural frequency. I suggest to interpret those lower frequency high amplitude oscillations as coil oscillations. You might verify it by measuring at source pin (Please be aware your scope probe willnot stand voltage more then 300V - else see data sheet).
As you know a FET is a circuit in itself as well and hence the coil oscillations are propageted to gate system. Now you understand that a proper gate driver is important.
In order to decern those oscillations it is advisable to take scope shots with oure ohmic load only. I guess there will be those 20Mhz oscillations only.

Regarding trigger:
You might find an adjustment where we can see one single pulse only. Your scope offers a zoom mode where you can mark a certain area of your scope view and it will display it magnified. You can shift this area in order to inspet rising edge and falling edge.

BTW: Still waiting unpatiently for my Oshpark PCBs
JS

[Cornboy 555]

Flip Flop

Hello JS, Everyone, trying to get Monster performing excellent, but am unsure of what i am seeing on scope, could someone please clarify, for me?.

I am pulsing a coil, and i have the scope probe on a small leed soldered to one of the gates, of the fets, and the scope earth on the input side of the pulser, i am using 12v to coil and 24v to pulser.

The gate resistors are 4 ohm, and the pull down's are 1 kohm.

There seems to be an array of spurilous osscillations?

What would you suggest based on scope shots?

[IMG][/IMG]



[IMG][/IMG]

Yours in Gratitude Cornboy

[GChilders]

@machinealive
glad you took the time to learn some additional programming. It does help to have some understanding of code. In any case both versions 0.0.3 and 0.0.4 have been corrected and are fully available to all. It has been my pleasure to work on this project. It seems everyone has been extremely busy working on the sensor setups. Great work all. We should have a few very nice and professional test platforms ready pretty soon, and then look out.
@hityby
Great, I am glad that you responded so quickly and downloaded the program. unfortunately errors were made and you will probably need to download it again or just download version0.0.4 if you have a timing device for your setup.
@Dana
Looks like you have been busy working on your setup. I am looking forward to seeing your next posts. Should be great.
@Zardox
Sorry for the troubles that you have had and I have compounded them by giving you code that had errors in it. Any download the new version and all should be good. I mentioned in a previous post that you could at this point delete the line #include sStream. my version compiles fine without that library. Good luck with your setup.

Cheers

Garry

[Ufopolitics]

Hello My Friend!

Sorry about that Dana, I'm not home right now, but I will try again when I get home, by lunchtime. I am going to try some different volts in, then the hg's, and then hopefully, the monsters.

I've been trying to understand this Figuera commutator, and how I am going to set that up. I would like to get some mica, and try making my own. UFO, or anyone, what are your thoughts on the Figuera commutator/resistor combo. The big commutator on the welder is 37 pole. I think an imperial comm is a good number, but probably a little to small, for the gen.

Hello Machine, Dear Friend,

Sorry I have been busy putting my Bike together, testing it, and enjoying the ride...So, let's put it this way..."I am going through my Middle Age Crisis...without waking up my Neighbors"...

I really have no idea what design of Figuera's Generator you are applying/putting together...But, based on my early sketches I do not have a Commutator for it, just continuous slip rings to output power from the Inducted Coils-Drum Rotor.

If You want to apply the Concept I have displayed, You need to Fix all the previous Inductor Coils, Inner and Outer, leaving a Gap to run the "U" Shaped Drum that contains only Copper windings and the structure that holds it together to Imperial shaft, like this below...

[IMG][/IMG]

The way your Generator "used" to work was...The Outer Generating Coils will get a steady output, when induced by the Inner Rotor that is the Rotary Stator ...Stator will receive feed from Exciter (where your Imperial is Now) ...So once this Old Monster is all energized...will need a High Horse Power Diesel Engine to turn it...

Figuera's have separated the Rotating Stator and making it FIXED at the Innermost side, in order that the Inducted Coils will rotate between Outer and Inner Stators.

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, in order to make this Concept happen in your set up, you will need to build from scratch the Inner FIXED Stator, leaving an Air Gap wide enough to allow rotor drum between (Your existing one will not work because Air Gap is too close to outer fields)

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, Your Drum should attach to the Imperial end only (and that's why I thought you have built such wide and heavy built Complex Bearing...in order just to use this lonely mean to rotate Drum...while the other end would have all the feeding connections for both, Inner/Outer Stators.


Understand now my friend?...Or I just complicated your life more?...

If this is NOT what you had in mind...then tell me how are you planning to build it...


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

Edit 1: My apologies to ALL the other Members here working on Controllers/Software...We have "disrupted/Invaded" this Electronic Control Thread with "Machines"...Sorry!
Machine: We will post next answers, to this in "My Machines"...Thanks Friend!

[machinealive]

Hopefully this works

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dzxvadezai...orumsketch.ino

[machinealive]

Sorry about that Dana, I'm not home right now, but I will try again when I get home, by lunchtime. I am going to try some different volts in, then the hg's, and then hopefully, the monsters.

I've been trying to understand this Figuera commutator, and how I am going to set that up. I would like to get some mica, and try making my own. UFO, or anyone, what are your thoughts on the Figuera commutator/resistor combo. The big commutator on the welder is 37 pole. I think an imperial comm is a good number, but probably a little to small, for the gen.

[GChilders]

@all
Guys I must apologize. I have been so busy with version 0.0.4 that I didn't go over version 0.0.3 with a fine tooth comb. But when I was writing the tutorial for 0.0.4 I discovered another oversight. I failed to include the new modes 6 and 7 in the buildPWMPinArray method and so they will not work in the posted version. Anyway that has been corrected and version 0.0.4 has been added to the dropbox as well as the tutorial for this. Once again untested as I am still waiting for my pulser pcbs to get here. Hopefully within the next week or so. I have recieved all of the parts to populate except for the cool mosfets which should be here the beginning of next week.

the program is at this link:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/02gdecbrn3a3j6e/sketch_RadiantMotorControlVersion0_0_4beta.ino

the tutorial is at this link:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/huu8kivviycge3g/RadiantMotorContol0.0.4Tutorial.rtf

Cheers

Garry

[prochiro]

Machine
The address you have for the code is your computers address not a shared dropbox address??? Film is interesting, both of your last two films are. You are making a steady uphill progress.
Dana

[machinealive]

Hi Dana

I found the sketch that I had working the best.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/forumsketch

rpm isn't working correctly, still needs slight calibrating.

I made I vid of setup, but you cant make out the numbers on laptop, sorry

Sensors - YouTube

I'll make a clearer one if you want me to. I measured 12.something on clampmeter, and 10-11 amps, mostly 11, on arduino. We measured 10 -11amps, back aways, when we were testing constant dc voltage.