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  • #31
    Working Device

    Rebus wanted me to let you know that he was not hiding anything from you. He said he has not fully replicated this device yet and that this is theory. He is convinced that it can and will work and that we need to work together to achieve that purpose. He works full time like the rest of us, so he only has limited time to put into this project every now and then. He does try to check the board fairly often and will respond where applicable as soon as he can.

    There are many ways to achieve what we are trying to do here, and it was Rebus intention to get this type of information out to you so you would be able to think outside the box THEY built around all of us, so you would be able to see the possibilities that really exist out there.

    As you can tell from the Rebus circuit diagram, this is a unique science and it was not just pulled out of thin air. I wonder where this Theory came from? I have studied a lot of the Tesla notes and never saw anything that quite resembles this. I wonder why?

    I won't be answering the questions I just ask.

    Comment


    • #32
      Visible vs Invisible (Rebus57 Repost from Don't Kill Dipole thread)

      (Pertinent Repost)

      Visible vs Invisible
      During Tesla's Colorado Springs time he was performing experiment's with very high voltage a million+ volts and his visible spark gap wasn't getting it done. After a few minutes operation they would erode away, get wider due to erosion and make the circuit unstable. He found a solution, he placed on the floor a flat metal plate and connected this to one side of the spark gap, he hung from the rafter's "some distance from the plate" two 20in dia metal sphere's and connected them to the other side of the spark gap, the circuit was "set into motion" as he puts it and height adjusted on sphere's until proper parameter's of circuit were observed. This setup was reported to work with high stability for hours on end, he said there was no visible spark only transfer of electrons sufficient to allow circuit to function normally. This is how I see cc and output tube's designed, sufficient volume of transfer prevents the unstable visible spark, the larger volume transfer is a much more even flow compared to more concentrated smaller visible spark.

      Comment


      • #33
        Headwaters?? (Taken from Rebus57 original post)

        HEADWATERS:
        In a sense we have a crystal set tuned at say 76hz, picked up from maybe the sun or the vibration of the earth rotating or moving through space. We don’t know which but the sun puts out the full radio spectrum, so I suspect a suitable device could be built to pick it up.

        Method of Extraction
        To extract this and make it usable we use instead of a gang tuning capacitor the following:

        1) we wind “bobbin coils” on two separate ferrite iron cores,
        2) these core’s, parallel to each other, are moved closer or farther apart until tuning is achieved between coils.

        While acting as capacitance the coils also step up the voltage and impart this onto the iron core. The coils are wound on cores in opposite directions to achieve a polyphase effect between the two cores. Now, the resultant “ringing” of the iron core’s at 76hz with a now stepped up to say 25 or 35 volts will cause the random flying atoms near each iron core to be imparted with the 76hz at 30v and will be placed in an orderly orbit around iron cores to be collected for our use. Lets say each iron cores bobbin coil consist of: Primaries say 4, and two sets of secondaries, 2 coils for controls, and 8 coils for our main “CURRENT COLLECTOR TUBE“, and this is per iron core. The 2 control coils run the variable trigger 30v oscillator. The 8 CURRENT COLLECTOR TUBE coils provide our high voltage (2 to 4 thousand volt’s) needed to collect sufficient current to run motors or “lifters” grids through the devices OUTPUT TUBES. This is our VOLTAGE. This covers the two "rod's" that were "pushed in" to turn on the device. They were nothing more than simple ferrite iron rods, transformer cores call them. These cores can be partially inserted into the primary to bring crystal device up, at the same time into control coil for a load, then when controls were up the core's are pushed all the way in to finally couple in high voltage secondary to bring current collector tube on line. Inductive coupling no "magic".


        *****

        There is a lot of pertinent important material you need to understand in the original Pierce Arrow post of Rebus57. You need to study that post a lot. There is a lot of information there you need to understand before you can go to the next step.

        Comment


        • #34
          Control For Entire Deice (Cathode)

          TRIGGER TUBES:
          The trigger tubes are designed similar to an old triode vacuum tube. This was most likely an integral part of each output tube in both Moray and Tesla designs but for testing mine will be separate. This tube consists of only three conductors, a cathode, grid and plate, and uses a “cold cathode” no heater. The cathode, this conductor, is our control for this entire device.

          IT'S OPERATION:
          The voltage applied to this cathode will be none or zero volt’s down into the minus range. To make it function - at zero volt’s the tube is “cut off”, no flow occurs between grid and plate and plate voltage is at its lowest at this point causing trigger voltage in output tube to be at it’s lowest resulting in FULL power output from output tube. As cathode voltage on trigger tube is LOWERED down into minus volt’s say -30v, trigger tube is fully “on” and max flow occurs between grid and plate and plate voltage is at it’s highest at this point causing trigger voltage in output tube to be equal to it’s anode voltage resulting in no power output from output tube and this completes our cycle from max volt’s output to zero volt’s output from output tube. This covers the "three special tube's in the wooden box in his pocket". They were two combination trigger/output tube's and one current collector tube. Tesla made his own H.I.D. light bulb's, a few special tube's were nothing for him.


          *****

          This segment taken from Rebus57 original Pierce Arrow post on Don't Kill Dipole thread.

          Comment


          • #35
            Tesla/Pierce-Arrow Car Basics (Rebus57 Repost from Oct 15 Don't Kill Dipole)

            Tesla/Pierce-Arrow Car Basics
            FOREWORD: First and most important, “THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX”, THROW AWAY THE BOX, this theory and circuit is VERY DIFFRENT from conventional thinking. No magic, no smoke, no mirrors, no batteries, no moving parts, just very old electrical theory never taught only shelved for unknown reason’s, although I believe it was J.P .Morgan, (General Electric), in the 1920’s that told Tesla quote, ”I don’t want to be just an antenna salesman”, but at that time Tesla was trying to “transmit” the power to be received, it wasn’t until the early 1930’s he discovered the power was all around us in MASSIVE quantities all that was needed was a tap. The tap was made by Dr. T. Henry Moray first, although his device’s output was high frequency and would not run a motor or inductive load. The “HEADWATERS” for his device was the same as the later Tesla/Pierce-Arrow automobile device but Tesla’s was a variable frequency device suitable for motor speed control. The device’s use a theory called “Splitting the positive”, simply explained, take just the positive from a 12v battery and connect to positive on a 12v incandescent bulb, then take just the positive from a 3v battery and connect to minus on same bulb and connect both battery minus’s together to complete circuit and bulb will burn with the 9v differential. The circuit I have come up with uses the same “Splitting the positive” theory.
            HEADWATERS: In a sense we have a crystal set tuned at say 76hz, picked up from maybe the sun or the vibration of the earth rotating or moving through space, we don’t know which but the sun puts out the full radio spectrum so I suspect a suitable device could be built to pick it up. To extract this and make it useable we use instead of a gang tuning capacitor, we wind “bobbin coil’s” on two separate ferrite iron core’s, these core’s, parallel to each other, are moved closer or farther apart until tuning is achieved between coil’s. While acting as capacitance the coil’s also step up the voltage and impart this onto the iron core, the coil’s are wound on core’s in opposite direction’s to achieve a polyphase effect between the two core’s. Now the resultant “ringing” of the iron core’s at 76hz with a now stepped up to say 25 or 35 volt’s will cause the random flying atom’s near each iron core to be imparted with the 76hz at 30v and will be placed in an orderly orbit around iron core’s to be collected for our use. Lets say each iron core’s bobbin coil’s consist of ; Primary’s say 4, and two set's of secondary’s, 2 coil’s for controls, and 8 coil’s for our main “CURRENT COLLECTOR TUBE“, and this is per iron core. The 2 control coil’s run the variable trigger 30v oscillator. The 8 CURRENT COLLECTOR TUBE coil’s provide our high voltage (2 to 4 thousand volt’s) needed to collect sufficient current to run motor’s or “lifters” grid’s through the device’s OUTPUT TUBE’S. This is our VOLTAGE. This covers the two "rod's" that were "pushed in" to turn on the device. They were nothing more than simple ferrite iron rod's, transformer core's call them. These core's can be partially inserted into the primary to bring crystal device up, at the same time into control coil for a load, then when controls were up the core's are pushed all the way in to finally couple in high voltage secondary to bring current collector tube on line. Inductive coupling no "magic".
            CURRENT COLLECTOR and OUTPUT TUBES: The CURRENT COLLECTOR TUBE consist of two anodes opposite each other with a “breakdown” gap on the ends facing each other. This gap is designed to provide a sufficient transfer of electron’s to prevent visible spark but allow current collector “bobbin” coil’s on ferrite iron core’s to build up to and maintain 2 to 4 thousand volt’s, remember the coil’s act as capacitor’s and will build up voltage until they burn up unless they are discharged. The discharge of 4000v at 76hz is captured on a pickup plate and fed to a “fairly thick” CURRENT COLLECTOR ROD, which like the ferrite iron core’s is imparted with 4000v 76hz, “ringing” the rod and causing atoms near rod to pick up same voltage and frequency and be made available for our use. This is our output CURRENT.
            The OUTPUT TUBE’S are designed much like the current collector tube, an anode sized for designed output current is opposed by a smaller trigger conductor. The anode is fed through a resistor from the current collector rod. The trigger is fed through same size resistor but power from current collector rod goes through a variable voltage TRIGGER TUBE so trigger voltage and rate can be controlled to vary output from output tube plate. This is where we use the “Splitting the positive” theory, anode at 4000v and trigger at 4000v, we have no output to plate. Begin to LOWER the trigger voltage and breakdown across gap begins causing anode to “shed” its charge which is picked up by the plate, this is our final output. It can be fed directly to a “lifter’s” control surface and varied for control or using 2 output tube’s running at different voltage’s say 4000v for one and 3880v for the other, a 120v differential is achieved to run device’s like an electric motor, the Tesla/Pierce-Arrow, our oven, air conditioner, heater, ... .

            TRIGGER TUBES: The trigger tube’s are designed similar to an old triode vacuum tube. This was most likely an integral part of each output tube in both Moray and Tesla design’s but for testing mine will be separate. This tube consists of only three conductors, a cathode, grid and plate, and uses a “cold cathode” no heater. The cathode, this conductor is our control for this entire device. It’s operation is as follow's - the voltage applied to this cathode will be none or zero volt’s down into the minus range. To make it function - at zero volt’s the tube is “cut off”, no flow occurs between grid and plate and plate voltage is at its lowest at this point causing trigger voltage in output tube to be at it’s lowest resulting in FULL power output from output tube. As cathode voltage on trigger tube is LOWERED down into minus volt’s say -30v, trigger tube is fully “on” and max flow occurs between grid and plate and plate voltage is at it’s highest at this point causing trigger voltage in output tube to be equal to it’s anode voltage resulting in no power output from output tube and this completes our cycle from max volt’s output to zero volt’s output from output tube. This cover's the "three special tube's in the wooden box in his pocket". They were two combination trigger/output tube's and one current collector tube. Tesla made his own H.I.D. light bulb's, a few special tube's were nothing for him.

            NOTES: [1] All described tube’s most likely had a vacuum pulled on them and may also have been charged with a gas like argon or nitrogen.
            [2] I believe Tesla had a metal gang variable capacitor connected to the accelerator pedal, this varied the “firing” frequency of the trigger tubes cathode’s through a variable frequency oscillator circuit giving variable frequency output for motor speed control. By having only two wire’s coming from the motor it was most likely a 120v or 220v single phase motor. At reported 50,000 watts device output that’s about 67hp but with as large physical size as described it had plenty of torque.
            Having reportedly made only one of these device’s and his papers and thought’s on them either destroyed or in AREA 51 we will never know his future thought’s on this device. I suspect using only one current collector tube and rod, additional pair’s of output tube’s could be added and “fired” in such an order to create a polyphase or three phase or more effect allowing three phase or more motors to be used.
            [3] Last and most important , the output from output tube’s will BE HIGH VOLTAGE all the way to some point in winding or device where the two output’s meet, therefore wiring must have HIGH VOLTAGE insulation or isolation transformer with high voltage insulated primary’s to use 600v wiring in secondary circuit’s.


            Thanks for your time; Rebus57
            01-25-2007

            *****

            It's important or I wouldn't have reposted it. You definitely have to understand the technical aspects of this post before you can go on and understand the whole science of how the device works.

            Comment


            • #36
              Inexpensive Magnet Wire Source

              cPath_9_20 | Applied Magnets : Essex Magnet Wire - Winding Wire - Enameled - discount wholesale prices.

              Comment


              • #37
                Coil Winding Jig

                If you have plans for a good coil winding jig setup, please post them.

                These coils take to long to wind by hand. Thanks!!

                Comment


                • #38
                  Are you winding coils for it now? Just a note on the wire, you can usually get a pretty good deal going to essex directly - typically $8-9 per pound depending on the wire size. Small dia wire is typically more expensive than the larger.

                  The jig for winding them would depend on the form your trying to turn. Typically a "C" shaped frame with a threaded rod will do the trick. Either a handle on the end or set up for a small hand drill with a variable speed control. The drill is fine for approximate turns but if you want a specific count you'll need to attatch a counter or use a handle and count them off as your winding.
                  ________
                  Chevrolet nova specifications
                  Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 10:58 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Winding Coils

                    Hi Dragon,

                    I haven't started winding for this project yet, but I'm trying to get ready anticipating that I'll soon be winding. I purchased a winder from China some years back and it came with some issues I couldn't fix, so I'm going to have to build something for a smoother run.

                    Thanks for the information.

                    I never tried going directly through Essex before. I guess I thought it would be higher there. Thanks.

                    Best Regards,
                    Slovenia

                    Originally posted by dragon View Post
                    Are you winding coils for it now? Just a note on the wire, you can usually get a pretty good deal going to essex directly - typically $8-9 per pound depending on the wire size. Small dia wire is typically more expensive than the larger.

                    The jig for winding them would depend on the form your trying to turn. Typically a "C" shaped frame with a threaded rod will do the trick. Either a handle on the end or set up for a small hand drill with a variable speed control. The drill is fine for approximate turns but if you want a specific count you'll need to attatch a counter or use a handle and count them off as your winding.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Another place you might check for wire is your local motor repair shop. They usually purchase magnet wire in large quantities and can give you a good deal on wire as well.... plus it supports your local business's.
                      ________
                      UGGS
                      Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 10:58 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Chrytal Radio

                        As I understand it, this device works similar to the early crystal radios. You tune it in to where it needs to be for the optimum power to be collected for your use. Of course, there is a lot of designing that must go into such a system so as to get the optimum power out of the setup; safety considerations; and a long life of the device. Basically in a nut shell, this is what we are shooting for. Interest seems to be waining, and I want to keep this thread alive as long as possible. I think there is great promise with this device.


                        Rebus57 posted something about the crystal radio scenario somewhere and I will try to find it again and repost it for you.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          I am interested in the device.

                          My only issue is that I am just begginning a few other projects and cant really take on another one right now.

                          Please keep posting I am enjoying watching it unfold.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Slovenia,
                            thanks for this thread, interesting indeed. Will look deeper in it.
                            Thanks
                            It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Good Thread

                              Jetijs & Kippered,

                              I'm glad you gentlemen like the thread. Rebus57 is truly a fascinating fellow indeed.
                              Last edited by Slovenia; 10-31-2010, 11:49 AM. Reason: Added Jetijs & Kippered to the post.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Copper Screen (Best Choice)

                                Rebus said that there are many available choices such as but not limited to the following sizes: (16x16 .018); (14x14 .020); (24x24 .014); (80x80 .0055). He has purchased and tested several sizes.

                                Rebus personal choices are as follows:
                                #1) (24x24 .014) for Output Tubes
                                #2) (80x80 .0055) for Current Collector Tube

                                The copper wire cloth reduces the capacitive effect of a solid plate.

                                Try not to use too tight of a weave or cloth will act as a solid but use large enough size to handle designed output current.

                                *****

                                Taken from Rebus57 post of October 20, 2010 on Don't Kill Dipole thread.

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