Big Joule Theif

[kick-bak]

Hi

My setup.

Bifiliar wound 40turn (0.4mil) magnet wire over top of Micro Wave fan coil.
Laminated core performed poorly so removed and inserted ferrite rod ( insert fun here )
Bifiliar wound same direction as MW fan coil.
One start and End winding joined for center tap.

Photo notes

Red : Bat (+) <--> Center Tap of 40/40 turn .4mil mag wire
Black : Bat (-) <--> Emitter 2N3055
Green : Base 2N3055 <--> 1k pot <--> Yellow <--> Start winding 40 turn.
White : Collector 2N3055 <--> End winding 40 turn
Outputs of MW coil to 22w CFL Halo. Tried other CFLs but this worked the
best. Would like to have tested a 10W Halo but dont have one

Originally had 10/20 turns but CFL would only light half way round. I've found
that the CFL will glow slightly if only the Red output lead is connected but will
not glow if only the Black lead is connected Maybe i'm only running
off the up OR down stroke, would be nice if able to utilize both
strokes somehow. The Red output lead is connected to the MW coils Start
winding and if holding the coil with the right hand and the outputs facing outward,
the windings follow the right hand rule. I think this coil will work great on a SSG.

Kick-bak

[redrichie]

Hi All.
Quick up date Sofar so good Voltage still at 1.20. Leds still bright. been running since sunday morning.I am going to run this all week just to see for sure. I am thinking maybe I'll will try this with a 12 volt lead acid Battery Who know's Thank's Tec

Any up date on the charge rate of your secondary coil or battery Voltage?

[Lidmotor]

Joule Thief transmitting power down one wire

@All
I posted this at Jonny's SEC/Joule Thief thread but I will post it here as well.
This is a video of a Joule Thief circuit using Dr. Stiffler's "towers" to transmit power down one wire. If Mr. Tesla is looking down--- I'm sure that he has that slight smile on his face.

YouTube - Joule Thief acting like a SEC.ASF

Lidmotor

[jeanna]

@ redrichie

Yes a 1.5v AA battery.

I tried to measure the ac voltage off the 423 Ohm winding but my elcheapo
multimeter has trouble reading the pulses.

Kick-bak

Hi kick-bak
This is normal. A dmm cannot read this at all. Idunno why not but tis so.
If you do not have a scope and you really want to know, then you can set up a bridge and 2 extra diodes and collect it all in a cap. But you'd better use one of those camera caps because it is very high voltage. In fact it is more than 400v if you are lighting a fluoro tube.

Good job

----
@lidmotor,
Thank you.
They will order it for me next week.

@tec,
As long as the memory that goes is the brainwashing, maybe it isn't too bad??

That the wire Tesla used was coated with a naturel rubber

In his lectures of 1892 he goes into a lot of detail about this.
(gutta percha he called it. gutta is raw latex rubber)
He used gutta coated wire and he submerged it in oil that had been boiled long enough to remove any bubbles that might compromise the rate of change of the impulse.

I am so very glad I can use a transistor.
Slap me when I complain about the cold solder joints on the 2N3055!

---
I have a link to this excellent book which is on scribd, but I am changing computers and it is not on this one yet.

jeanna

[morpher44]

carbon insulated wire

Hi Jeanna.
Thank's for the reply I read somewhere cant remember where( they say memory is the first to go ) That the wire Tesla used was coated with a naturel rubber with carbon added to the mix I guess this was the only coating they had at the time.Do you think the carbon somehow was key in some of his radient experiment's I know that's way out of the box but i think it's kinda like a wire falling in just the right place by accident thing's like that do happen. Again thank's for the reply. Tec
I dont have a scope,Got laid off and it dont look like the company is going to come back.so I've had a little more time to experiment between looking for work.Not many place's here and most are cutting back.suck's but that's the way it is.Thank's Tec

@Tectalabyss

Sorry to hear you got layed-off. That does suck.

re: carbon.
I've learned -- from Wikipedia -- search for
"electric double-layer capacitors"
that they put carbon/charcoal in the dielectric to create
an increased energy density. I would imagine, therefore,
that if carbon was in the wire insulation ... that the capacitive
characteristics of the wire would change.

Yes carbon insulated wire might be very interesting to experiment
with.

[Lidmotor]

RadioShack --25 Ohm Rheostat

Hi redrechie,
IMO it is best to not even go there.

The effects of high voltage high frequency are so completely different from the regular paradigm, that it will take years of practice opening our minds just to make a little progress.

There is probably no need to call on amps in a pulsed circuit.
This is my thesis.
I personally believe this is one thing tesla discovered.
His backers made sure we would not be able to figure this out for a long time.

It is better to just keep experimenting and not go there. (my opinion again)

@lidmotor,
I went all around my town today and nobody had a rheostat dimmer switch like yours.
One place had a $10 (!) type that is bigger than 3 of my circuits!!
Could you please turn it over and tell me the model number?
I thought you got it at radio shack??
Radio shack will order one for me if I know the number.

thank you,

jeanna

@ Jeanna
Here is a direct link to the Radio Shack web page that shows the rheostat.

25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat - RadioShack.com

It is rated at 3 watts and burns out qucikly if you run too many amps through it. I put a heat sink on the bottom of mine if I'm pushing it because they get hot just like a ballast resistor. The part number is 271-265 and they cost $3.99.
I have been working with a "1 toroid that I wound (10Tx10Tx87T) It has 24 ga on the small windings and 30ga on the 87T (just an arbitrary #) winding.
The idea was to go your direction and focus on what the secondary could do. The voltage bump that you get there lets you do a whole bunch of things.
If anyone else out there has the Dr. Stiffler "towers" built--- then start playing around with them! Use the HV off the secondary of a JT. You will see some magic.
Another thing that I tried was running the circuit backward using a PNP instead of a NPN transistor. It works just fine. You just have to reverse the (+) and (-) up front. I am using the Radio Shack little 2N3906 NPN (15 to a package for a couple dollars). Slayer is the one who turned me onto this idea. He got a SEC-15 to run on them also.

@Kick-bak
Great job using the micro wave fan motor. I have one of those. I was going to try and run the motor off a JT secondary. Now I may just take it apart like you did and use the coil. Thinking outside the box is really a good thing.

Lidmotor

[Mark]

Awesome Kick-back and welcome.

Does that 22w cfl light up to near full strength?

[kick-bak]

@ redrichie

Yes a 1.5v AA battery.

I tried to measure the ac voltage off the 423 Ohm winding but my elcheapo
multimeter has trouble reading the pulses.

Kick-bak

[redrichie]

Hi all

Don't post much but lurk here all the time
Having read thru this thread and also the 'Joule thief' one over at
OverUnity.com I found myself pulling apart a psu that was lying about
in me shed and found three toroids inside. Two small and one 38mm-OD/19mm-ID toroids.
I managed to wrap 20 winds thru 1 of the smaller Toroids and got to light up a few Leds.
Looking at the larger toroid there was no way i was gonna get 300+ winds onto it
Being a hoarder in nature i'd kept the motor out of our microwave oven before sending
it off to the tip just incase it came in handy someday. That day came today.
Once the shaft n fan blade are removed the coil can be coaxed off with a hammer and
what you have left is a coil with an iron laminated core. This core can be pushed out
and a ferrite rod inserted instead. My coil has 423 Ohms and 20 + 40 winds of .4 mil
magnet wire over the top of that. It lights a 22w cfl using the simple circuit Lidmotor has on his youtube chan.

YouTube - Jeanna's Light


Kick-bak

On what kind of input source? A 1.5V battery!?

[kick-bak]

Microwave fan motor

Hi all

Don't post much but lurk here all the time
Having read thru this thread and also the 'Joule thief' one over at
OverUnity.com I found myself pulling apart a psu that was lying about
in me shed and found three toroids inside. Two small and one 38mm-OD/19mm-ID toroids.
I managed to wrap 20 winds thru 1 of the smaller Toroids and got to light up a few Leds.
Looking at the larger toroid there was no way i was gonna get 300+ winds onto it
Being a hoarder in nature i'd kept the motor out of our microwave oven before sending
it off to the tip just incase it came in handy someday. That day came today.
Once the shaft n fan blade are removed the coil can be coaxed off with a hammer and
what you have left is a coil with an iron laminated core. This core can be pushed out
and a ferrite rod inserted instead. My coil has 423 Ohms and 20 + 40 winds of .4 mil
magnet wire over the top of that. It lights a 22w cfl using the simple circuit Lidmotor has on his youtube chan.

YouTube - Jeanna's Light


Kick-bak

[jeanna]

Hi Jeana. On your secondary's are they Ac or Dc. ? I have gotten 316.7 volt's Ac out of one of my coil's Sofar every J T I've checked has been AC. Thank's. Tec

They are ac. It is the form of pulsed dc over time.
Very few of mine are equal on both wires. So, It is like a polarity.
If I use a string of leds wired in series , the lights will go on in one way and not or be very dim in the other.

They are mostly very spiky and the more sharp the spikes the better.
When I forst got my scope, I thought I was looking for a smooth sinewave, but more and more I changed my mind because a smooth sinewave did not give the results.
Then I read a book called "the inventions of nicola tesla" (or close to that) written by a contemporary and checked by tesla for accuracy; and, in his transcribed lectures tesla made a very strong point that the sharpness of the pulse was the most important part to achieve.
(He was using a disruptive discharge = spark to achieve his pulses, and went into a lot of detail to arrive at a way to make the pulses begin and end sharply.)

Here is a pic of how some of my early secondary wires were connected... and now I always remove the basic jt light shown at the bottom right.

jeanna

EDIT add
I would like to respond to the notion of the step up then step down transformers.
I believe this is Don Smith's approach.
The interesting part to me is that first he gets the voltages incredibly high before he turns the transformer around.
Theoretically this cannot work, but I believe the 'magic' if you will, comes at the moment of the back spike.
It is a moment when the math goes to infinity.
If you can pack a lot (high frequency) of those very high voltage spikes into a second, you will get surprised.

but we must break out of the box to do this....
j

[jeanna]

Hi redrechie,
IMO it is best to not even go there.

The effects of high voltage high frequency are so completely different from the regular paradigm, that it will take years of practice opening our minds just to make a little progress.

There is probably no need to call on amps in a pulsed circuit.
This is my thesis.
I personally believe this is one thing tesla discovered.
His backers made sure we would not be able to figure this out for a long time.

It is better to just keep experimenting and not go there. (my opinion again)

@lidmotor,
I went all around my town today and nobody had a rheostat dimmer switch like yours.
One place had a $10 (!) type that is bigger than 3 of my circuits!!
Could you please turn it over and tell me the model number?
I thought you got it at radio shack??
Radio shack will order one for me if I know the number.

thank you,

jeanna

[redrichie]

transformer

JUst a quick question. Albeit probably a dumb one or previously answered. If less Voltage and more current are needed couldn't you run the output of the high Voltage through a step-down transformer to achieve this? I mean if i'm getting 700V and "X" current, then the 700V is seriously in excess of what I need to run an item. Or am I way off base and like Bedini devices Im looking for the potential and not the current. And if this is the case then what do we do in a world that is completely built around current consumption? Even a little motor that has high RPM's and a good amount of torque can consume upwards of 12V and over Amp.

[Mark]

Just a couple of updates.

I was able to light up 5 of the unmodified led bulbs and pretty sure I could get six but ran out of jumper wires.

I tried a D cell and noticed that my transistor, which I'm using a MJL21194 now was getting hot. Was also getting a little warm with a C cell. Found a AAA and the transistor stayed cool with that, and the light output was the same.

I also tried 2 C cells in series and noticed that my amp draw doubles when my voltage doubles. I tried a 12 volt and the circuit wont oscillate or just acts like a short.

My biggest complaint is the high tone squeal from the toroid. I noticed it quiets down some with different voltage and batteries and that if I put a small neo magnet on the toroid sometimes I can tone it down but I need to find a way to get rid of it.

I'm going to play with the amount of turns on the primaries and a variable resistor on the base to see what differences they make.

Another thing I want to mention is that when I had 3 of my unmodified bulbs lit that I could hook a FWBR in parallel and was still able to charge a 340uf 250v cap up to around 96 volts. And it didn't seem to matter what size battery or if I was running 3 volts, the cap only varied a couple of volts.

Now if I could just find a way to dump that cap back into the primary

[morpher44]

stable amp draw...

This business of the way the amp draw doesn't change but the light does is a really important point.
I have been watching something like this for a while.

This is the beginning of where it started to look like a pattern to me.
I cannot make the frequency = amps equation, but if you force the frequency and volts to stay the same, the amps will be drawn.
If you allow the frequency and the volts to go where they want, they behave like freq = amps.
If you add a series inductor to boost the volts, you can then add a draw of some kind, the frequency will diminish.
There is more to learn about this, but I believe it is the road to 90 years ago and beyond.
Great work everybody,
jeanna

I have some other observations to pass along...

a) If you place a metal ground plate NEAR the CFLs, they
can be made to start up much easier (without needing a person
to hand touch them). The plate could be a source of ionization,
bring the CFL to a place where it can resonate and ignite.

b) I took a clip lead, attached it to one little neon bulb, looped it
around making a circle of about 7 in diameter ... and then
attached to the same lead of the neon. On the other end of the
neon, attach another long clip lead and run this over to a
aluminum plate (or iron bolt ... or anything with metal mass).
It reminds me of the Ankh!
If this is brought near the coils or neons or capacitor,
the neon will glow very easily due to inductive pickup.
If you bring the straight lead, with aluminum plate and place
the plate into the center of the loop, the neon goes out.

c) Similar to a) above, if you have a large metal capacitor (or
the hand made cylinder capacitor I had) and place the
CFLs near it, and if one hot lead goes to that cap ... with
no path to ground from that cap, the CFLs will glow --
even when not wired -- if they are brought near it.
This is not unlike the Tesla glowing bulb near Tesla coil demonstration.
The difference, though, is the power source is a
measly 1.5V battery.

d) Other nearby coils, transformer, metal objects, and so forth
near your setup ... can drain power ... since they are
inductively part of your circuit ... even though they are not
physically connected. Simply attaching my oscilloscope
alters everything. The scope, when not attached, can easily
pick up the waveform -- depending upon proximity of probes.
Attach the probes to any metal object in the area and the waveform
is there. Move these objects around near your circuit ... and
the scope shows subtle changes to the waveforms -- implying
a subtle connection to EVERYTHING in the area. Its fascinating.
This includes your human body or a cat walking by, etc.
I've walked past the circuit ... and made the lights go off resonance
in my wake. The effect is subtle like the wind at these lower power
values. When I bump source voltage up to 6V or 9V ...
these effects are less noticeable.