Big Joule Theif

[Mark]

Hi Skywatcher

I have been using those bulbs for quite a while now and have changed over about half of the bulbs in my house to them. 25watts sounds about right. I have 4 of them in my ceiling fan in my 11x14 bedroom and they give sufficient light to that room. I also use them in a 1/2 bath and they're good in there also. Now in my master bath they don't quite give out enough light for shaving or for gals to put make up on so I use half cfl and half led bulbs. hope this helps.

Mark

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Jeanna, i posted in ou forum also but was wondering if those LOA bulbs, like the one you said is supposed to be equivalent to a 25 watt incandescent, can you compare it to the standard bulb to see if it really does have similar light output at what the standard illuminating power would be for the LOA bulb. I think they rate the leds by the spot of light they create which wouldn't fill a room like the standard bulb, though maybe you already know this. thanks
peace love light
Tyson

[kooler]

small jt

i just done this to see how low i could run this 265000 mcd led 10mm
you can't light this on a 3v coin cell
oh.... you can light 3 regular 5mm leds on this a much lower ma than this
i bet this would last a good while on a AA or AAA

YouTube - low ma joule thief

[jeanna]

Hi everybody,
I just posted my newest video.
It is a joule thief secondary running a Tesla Hairpin type circuit... no sparks, just the shhh quiet of the transistor and maybe a little hum from the wires.


jeanna's Hairpin Revision

enjoy,

jeanna

[mk1]

@all

Hello everyone , my name is Mark , i wanted to share some early test results from , my toilet paper unit jt , (tpu jt) , some people are working on those types of coil in one of the tpu tread over at OU.

I made this quick test , with what i had around , but it works , so its 18 turns bi-fillar jt (blue and the white one) The jt wires goes 3 times a round not unlike the Rodin Coil idea . I do not claim the coil concept , but made it into a jt .

The green wire is 4 turns i get 5v from 4 turns(after a 1n4007 bridge) , so it is a step down ratio 18/4.

There is room for improvement , since it worked on the first try , i did not tune any thing yet .

At OU they say the best angle is 45 degrees .

On one picture you barely see a bright white led from the secondary , no diodes , it only works one way.

[jeanna]

I do not think so.
The polarity of the inductors is opposite on the joule thief.
Do you see those dots?
They do not appear like this on bedin's circuits.

This primary is a center tapped one which means if you wind the turns for the base, then pull out the wire and create a length of loop, then resume in the same direction for the collector coil you will have a configuration that is very easy to modify.
Remember to scrape the center pulled out piece and you must put THAT into the +pos battery .
The outside ends go to the resistor at the base of the transistor, and to the collector.
We have found that it works best on most toroids when there are fewer turns on the base coil and more on the collector coil.

Then remember the magic happens with the secondary... the amps draw usually goes down and the thing produces powerful and useful volts.

I hope this helps.

jeanna

[nvisser]

Thank you
I see it is the same as bedini`s patent US2008/0129250 A1

[jeanna]

very old joule thief with secondary

OK here goes:
Remember to remove the BJTL

jeanna

[nvisser]

@nvisser
I have one on my desktop that is an old drawing but is basic joule thief with a secondary. I will post that. Please note the drawing shows the BJTL (basic joule thief light) which should be removed when using a secondary, as it sucks out the joules from the battery and kills it quicker than if you only use the secondary for lights.
thank you,
jeanna

Thank you
That will be great!

[jeanna]

hi jeanna, i took a look at got some interesting results.


. when i touched the negative side of the secondary the bulb would go out completely. basically the negative side of the secondary needs to be properly grounded. i verified this by by connecting a croc clip from the negative end of the secondary to the battery ground connection. i turned on the battery, waited 10 seconds, then turned off the switch leaving the battery on. only the small dots from the capcacitor remained, and they went out after 5 minutes.

can you replicate?

This would be nice, because it is so nice to leave the bulb alone.

The negative side of the secondary is soldered to the inside of the screw socket of the lamp, so I need to find a better place than the secondary itself.
I will see what happens with the screw base.
That should do it, It is the same thing.
I will see about hooking a croc lead to the metal base of the lamp and see what happens.
Thank you.

jeanna

edit.

So, it appears to work but in fact, there is something still on.

If I check the battery ends, when the light is off and grounded and the lights have dimmed to appear off,as described, there is 0.72v in the battery but if I remove the battery it has 1.18v in it, so something is still working.Those caps are keeping the transistor on.
DARN! The leds went out in about 30 seconds too. I was really hopeful.
Do you have any more ideas?

jeanna

[kazm]

So Kazm,
My question is about the switch.
Since this is the unmodified bulb,...
Have you been able to turn off the light by the switch.?
I find, once it goes on I can only turn mine off by removing the battery.

thank you,

jeanna

hi jeanna, i took a look at got some interesting results.

first keep in mind that there is a capacitor inside the standard bulb. you can test this simply by turning your bulb on for a few seconds then off, then completely disconnecting the bulb. The leds will still stay lit with a very tiny dot of light for up to 5 minutes. that said, here's what i found:

with my circuit as it was (secondary wire not connected to the circuit, both ends going to the bulb) the switch did turn the bulb off - but only about about 95%. There was still clearly a small amount of light being produced which would only go away when i turned off the battery. i then noticed that when i touched the positive side of the secondary with my finger most of the light would come back (remember, this is with the switch OFF). when i touched the negative side of the secondary the bulb would go out completely. basically the negative side of the secondary needs to be properly grounded. i verified this by by connecting a croc clip from the negative end of the secondary to the battery ground connection. i turned on the battery, waited 10 seconds, then turned off the switch leaving the battery on. only the small dots from the capcacitor remained, and they went out after 5 minutes.

can you replicate?

[jeanna]

Hi Jeanna, thanks! No, the bulb was not modified, I did test a gutted one but it's output wasn't as good so I've been using them as is. The light is strong but it's still not full brightness (when I plug into the wall I can still see a difference). I'll see if I can match it using more turns, or possibly the 3-directional winding you've described in http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post76741

Cheers,
kazm

So Kazm,
My question is about the switch.
Since this is the unmodified bulb,...
Have you been able to turn off the light by the switch.?
I find, once it goes on I can only turn mine off by removing the battery.

thank you,

jeanna

[kazm]

Hi Jeanna, thanks! No, the bulb was not modified, I did test a gutted one but it's output wasn't as good so I've been using them as is. The light is strong but it's still not full brightness (when I plug into the wall I can still see a difference). I'll see if I can match it using more turns, or possibly the 3-directional winding you've described in http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post76741

Cheers,
kazm

[jeanna]

White Light Bulb (Un-modified).


@jeanna - i've seen it mentioned in earlier posts that having a "center tapped primary" can produce better results, but i'm confused by what this means. How would I modify my toroid of 3, 9 and 85 windings to be center tapped?

Cheers,
kazm

Very nice Kazm!!

You are already making the centertapped primary. If you were not, the jtc would not be working.

So, I have a question
Did you modify that light?
I have made these with and without modification and the unmodified ones continue to oscillate through the switch til the battery is dead.
Somehow the caps are continuing the oscillation which must be effecting the primary which is keeping the transistor alive and THAT is keeping the battery involved.
The only way I can stop it is by removing the battery.

2 batteries will often be brighter, but more secondary turns will also make the lights brighter.
I have one that looks like yours that makes 400-500v off the secondary and lights the bulb UNmodified.

For a modified bulb, just make one that lights a neon(the kind that comes with a resistor from radio shack) and you will have enough volts for full brightness, which is 172 spiky volts.

@nvisser
I have one on my desktop that is an old drawing but is basic joule thief with a secondary. I will post that. Please note the drawing shows the BJTL (basic joule thief light) which should be removed when using a secondary, as it sucks out the joules from the battery and kills it quicker than if you only use the secondary for lights.

thank you,

jeanna

[Tectalabyss]

edit,
To actually answer your question,
I suspect you are using a dmm to check your voltage.
They cannot do it with the secondary from a jtc.
You probably have more like 45v than 4.5v. You can check by putting 6 leds in SERIES and touching the secondary leads to the ends of the string. Start with 6 then 5 then 4...
If no lights go on repeat this with the wires around the other way.
===end edit.
my original answer:

Hi tec...
I did not see this before.
OR I need to ask if the sec is the Dr Stiffler sec or if it is the second jtc coming from the output of the first?

I made a whole thread on what happened when I tried to do this exact thing.
I had the thread pretty much to myself.
Basically the second level transistor is not going to do much with a pulsed input.
I found that it was simply unnecessary.
The reason I started a whole new thread (at ou) is because when I was fooling around with it after I had removed the second transistor and base resistor, I DROPPED a wire and when it landed straight into a hole on the breadboard all the lights got bright.

I puzzled over this for weeks, afraid to move anything in case I could not get it back into its place.
The circuit appeared extremely convoluted, but,
In the end I straightened out the wires and discovered that I had a pair of parallel lines and in those parallel lines, one or 2 series inductors formed from the second toroid of the second level jtc. I made some videos later and etc...

If you are talking about using this for a Dr Stiffler sec, then ignore this post.

thank you,

jeanna

btw, that thread is here

Thanks for the reply Jeanna.
I am running from the secondary on my JT straight to the bridge rectifier.I have and old analog meter that I havent used in a long time would it read the volts right.Most of the equipment I have worked on for year's have been 3 phase 480 v starters gearswitchs and such. I am still learning about these smaller eletronic circuits.I'll try what you said and get back to you. it may take a while the winter here has been a bad one people just over the state line have been without power for over two weeks,and have just gotten it back this week. Thanks again for the reply. Tec