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  • kazm
    replied
    Hi all, I recently found this forum and have had great fun replicating and learning from these circuits, much thanks to all who contribute to making this forum what it is!

    Wanted to chime in with my replication of the "Jeanna's Light" circuit, specifically the one with the smaller toroid and led bulb:

    PARTS:

    * TIP3055 transistor
    * 1k ohm resistor
    * 1 inch (outer diameter) ferrite toroid with 3 turns (22 guage) and 9 turns (24 guage) on the primary, 85 turns (26 guage) on the secondary.
    * Lights of America 2025LED-65K-24 LED 1.5 Standard Base Chandelier Style Bright White Light Bulb (Un-modified).

    RESULTS:

    * This is giving me the best level of light i've gotten out of my circuits so far. Previous to this i've made fuji based cfl drivers as well as the allelectronics-big-toroid version of jeannas cfl light, and both are noticeably dimmer in comparison.

    * Runs for 3.5-4hrs on 1 or 2 AA batteries (decent light with 1 but is stronger with 2).

    * Makes absoutely no noise at all! This has been confirmed by my girlfriend who can hear even the most subtle high pitched coil whine

    ~~~

    I'm planning to box this in a project box with an wall style outlet (it's actually a 3-prong to 2-prong adaptor) into which i can plug my lamps.

    @jeanna - i've seen it mentioned in earlier posts that having a "center tapped primary" can produce better results, but i'm confused by what this means. How would I modify my toroid of 3, 9 and 85 windings to be center tapped?

    Cheers,
    kazm
    Attached Files
    Last edited by kazm; 01-08-2010, 07:46 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Originally posted by jeanna View Post
    There are a lot of jt diagrams because the jt is so flexible,
    You can use a plain jt as the original patented one, or you can add a secondary or 2.
    Some people are now adding more than one transistor!

    They all have many variations and possibilities.
    What do you want? (besides everything )
    I have a lot of drawings but I bet a lot of others do too.

    jeanna
    This was what Jb answered me. I need to construct something out of that:
    Question:
    Originally Posted by nvisser
    I bought a 1A solar panel for only R300 . That is about $40.
    I connected it on my small ssg
    It has a 1k resistor on the base so it start to self ossilate when you give it a quick spin. It start up with very low light with about 0.9V. The panel is connected to a capacitor and that supplies the ssg.
    So with very low light it can already charge batteries. The frequency is very high with low light.
    I tried it with moonlight a while ago with full moon but the generated voltage was to low from one panel to get it to run.
    Now i connected the panel permanently to a car battery and drives the SSG from the battery that stayed above 12.3v even with the last few day being overcast. I am using it to condition and charge my 4 x 12v 7ah lead acid batteries
    JB`s answer
    Nvisser,
    Make a Solar oscillator out of that or make a new one it will work much better. Just make an oscillator out of the sg circuit by reversing the trigger wire, then it will charge in the moon light. I do it all the time when I can see the moon. My lights are always on with that oscillator. Hook it up like the joule thief but use the SG coil with the resistor in the base circuit.
    JB
    Last edited by nvisser; 01-08-2010, 07:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeanna
    replied
    Originally posted by Tectalabyss View Post
    I have checked this with three meter's same thing + or - in the mil volts.
    I have checked the current draw with the meter on the 20 millamp setting it's 0.10 is this good ??? The things I worked on most were anywhere from 200 to 600 amps
    edit,
    To actually answer your question,
    I suspect you are using a dmm to check your voltage.
    They cannot do it with the secondary from a jtc.
    You probably have more like 45v than 4.5v. You can check by putting 6 leds in SERIES and touching the secondary leads to the ends of the string. Start with 6 then 5 then 4...
    If no lights go on repeat this with the wires around the other way.
    ===end edit.
    my original answer:

    Hi tec...
    I did not see this before.
    OR I need to ask if the sec is the Dr Stiffler sec or if it is the second jtc coming from the output of the first?

    I made a whole thread on what happened when I tried to do this exact thing.
    I had the thread pretty much to myself.
    Basically the second level transistor is not going to do much with a pulsed input.
    I found that it was simply unnecessary.
    The reason I started a whole new thread (at ou) is because when I was fooling around with it after I had removed the second transistor and base resistor, I DROPPED a wire and when it landed straight into a hole on the breadboard all the lights got bright.

    I puzzled over this for weeks, afraid to move anything in case I could not get it back into its place.
    The circuit appeared extremely convoluted, but,
    In the end I straightened out the wires and discovered that I had a pair of parallel lines and in those parallel lines, one or 2 series inductors formed from the second toroid of the second level jtc. I made some videos later and etc...

    If you are talking about using this for a Dr Stiffler sec, then ignore this post.

    thank you,

    jeanna

    btw, that thread is here
    Last edited by jeanna; 01-08-2010, 04:16 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tectalabyss
    replied
    Originally posted by Tectalabyss View Post
    Anyway I have been playing around with secondaries and in trying to run another JT off my first I came across something I've never read about yet.My sec is running to a bridge rectifier I hooked up my sec JT off of the bridge rec and it worked but Led was dim.so I thought maybe the Transistor was bad when I took it out to replace it the the Led got brighter so I took the resistor out still ran. unhooked the Jt wire that ran to the resistor has it wasn't doing anything still ran.I checked the voltage it's only reading 0.71 Volt's.I added five more LEDs, I've had it running for a few hour's to see.Has anyone else had this happen. One thing If I take the Transistor out of the first one it shuts down. Thanks for any advice If anyone has the time. Tec

    I have also unhooked the bridge rec It will not run without it. I took the JT toroid out of the circuit with the bridge.

    My voltage is 1.58 DC at the battery. The voltage coming out of secondary is 1.53 AC. Voltage out of Bridge is 4.28 DC without load.( Why is the voltage higher coming out of the Bridge????.)Is it due to the fact that a JT acts like a voltage doubler.??? voltage with load is 0.65 volts DC . I also added some more LEDS I now have 10 running.
    I have checked this with three meter's same thing + or - in the mil volts.
    I have checked the current draw with the meter on the 20 millamp setting it's 0.10 is this good ??? The things I worked on most were anywhere from 200 to 600 amps
    Last edited by Tectalabyss; 01-07-2010, 11:23 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeanna
    replied
    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    Can anyone on this thread please refer me to what they found was the best Joule Thief circuit diagram.
    Thanks
    Vissie
    There are a lot of jt diagrams because the jt is so flexible,
    You can use a plain jt as the original patented one, or you can add a secondary or 2.
    Some people are now adding more than one transistor!

    They all have many variations and possibilities.
    What do you want? (besides everything )
    I have a lot of drawings but I bet a lot of others do too.

    jeanna

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Scr

    Originally posted by kooler View Post
    in all the scr's i blew up
    this is the one i liked the most
    part# S6020L
    it switches the fastest and with the lowest of current draw
    but it does not have a high amp rating 20 amps i think
    http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-...-309/53339.pdf
    Hi kooler and slayer thanks for the info. Today I hooked a BR with a 3300uf 35v cap and in the begining it was charging but after reaching 7v it stopped maybe the 1.5v batt should be charged again.
    Kooler are scr's better than BR's and how do you hook them to a Cap?Any schematic please?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Circuit Diagram?

    Can anyone on this thread please refer me to what they found was the best Joule Thief circuit diagram.
    Thanks
    Vissie

    Leave a comment:


  • kooler
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    Thanks SLayer for help. Do you have any part number for good SCR and cap?
    You told me to increase the bifilar coil?
    Thanks
    in all the scr's i blew up
    this is the one i liked the most
    part# S6020L
    it switches the fastest and with the lowest of current draw
    but it does not have a high amp rating 20 amps i think
    http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-...-309/53339.pdf

    Leave a comment:


  • jeanna
    replied
    toroids

    Thanks Vortex. That is a very supportive and hopeful drawing.

    Do you know anything about the magnet in the drawing?
    Is that a permanent magnet?
    I do not think the magnetic field is going that way so it is puzzling me.

    thanks

    -----------------

    I received a call from MMI this morning.
    It was just a follow up to my samples request.
    The upshot of the conversation was that he would try to influence his marketing managers to get mouser to buy these
    0W48613TC
    which Lidmotor used in jeanna's light and I used in the big gold copy of that.

    The best thing would be for us to ask mouser for this at the same time that the managers are thinking about it and presenting it to mouser themselves.
    Having this toroid be available from mouser would be the best of the possibilities, I think since this is a normal supplier for most experimenters.

    thank you,

    jeanna

    Leave a comment:


  • Tectalabyss
    replied
    Please replicate

    Originally posted by slayer007 View Post
    Guruji here is a link showing how you can use two transistors to make a SCR.

    Using a PNP and a NPN you can make a SCR.

    The Silicon-Controlled Rectifier (SCR) : THYRISTORS

    Sorry but I dont have a parts list.
    I've made these and they do work,I've had to make a work around part's we didn't have on hand and this was one of them.The boss wants it to run well you know the drill Anyway I have been playing around with secondaries and in trying to run another JT off my first I came across something I've never read about yet.My sec is running to a bridge rectifier I hooked up my sec JT off of the bridge rec and it worked but Led was dim.so I thought maybe the Transistor was bad when I took it out to replace it the the Led got brighter so I took the resistor out still ran. unhooked the Jt wire that ran to the resistor has it wasn't doing anything still ran.I checked the voltage it's only reading 0.71 Volt's.I added five more LEDs, I've had it running for a few hour's to see.Has anyone else had this happen. One thing If I take the Transistor out of the first one it shuts down. Thanks for any advice If anyone has the time. Tec

    I have also unhooked the bridge rec It will not run without it. I took the JT toriod out of the circuit with the bridge.

    My voltage is 1.58 DC at the battery. The voltage coming out of secondary is 1.53 AC. Voltage out of Bridge is 4.28 DC without load. Why is the voltage higher coming out of the Bridge????. voltage with load is 0.65 volts DC . I also added some more LEDS I now have 10 running.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Tectalabyss; 01-07-2010, 11:02 PM. Reason: Add Pictures

    Leave a comment:


  • Vortex
    replied
    since conical shape coil is being spoken about ..
    I offer this up for review.

    Source link

    ... the windings increase in turns as it approaches the bottom of the core, taking the form of a cone with the apex pointing up, this is quite similar to the HomoPolar motor which does not experience any resistance no matter how much current is extracted by the load devices. ...
    "JavaScript Tesla Coil Designer" .. plug in values to determine self-resonant frequency ..


    IRON POWDER MATERIALS
    (inductance, frequencies, etc)

    Leave a comment:


  • jeanna
    replied
    mini-wardencliff

    I made another attempt to see what can be done with my miniature Tesla pancake coil in a conical shape.

    It looks like a mini wardencliff tower.
    What is surprising and exciting is that I am not seeing it go out of resonance.
    Usually when a battery runs down a jtc will slip out of resonance.
    It is for this reason that I make every effort to Untune my jtc's. (Then they won't lose what makes them work)

    It is already small. It stands less than 2 inches tall.
    I would like to see how small I can push it and still have it work, but
    I would really like to make it bigger.
    I am not a machinist nor am I very good at beautiful builds like some, and I am hoping someone who wants a reliably resonant circuit will make one that is a foot tall.

    Anyway here is a little video:
    little wardencliff

    jeanna

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    Thanks SLayer for help. Do you have any part number for good SCR and cap?
    You told me to increase the bifilar coil?
    Thanks


    Guruji here is a link showing how you can use two transistors to make a SCR.

    Using a PNP and a NPN you can make a SCR.

    The Silicon-Controlled Rectifier (SCR) : THYRISTORS

    Sorry but I dont have a parts list.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guruji
    replied
    Originally posted by slayer007 View Post
    Guruji If it's a smaller 12v you could try a SCR with a capacitor.

    You could also try combining your primary coil with your secondary coil.
    Making a big primary coil and use the BEMF off the transistor to try to charge it.

    If you add more base resistance you could use more power in your JT also.

    Sorry I hope that helps.
    Thanks SLayer for help. Do you have any part number for good SCR and cap?
    You told me to increase the bifilar coil?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    Originally posted by Guruji View Post
    Hi Slayer I had build your JT circuit in the past with a 1.5v;2n3055;2n2222 and 20T;20T;480T to light a CFL.
    Is it possible to modify this circuit to charge a 12v car battery? Should I insert a big cap?
    Any help please?
    Thanks


    Guruji If it's a smaller 12v you could try a SCR with a capacitor.

    You could also try combining your primary coil with your secondary coil.
    Making a big primary coil and use the BEMF off the transistor to try to charge it.

    If you add more base resistance you could use more power in your JT also.

    Sorry I hope that helps.

    Leave a comment:

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