Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[Peter Lindemann]

Welcome

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have built the original Imhotep circuit with a 12 volt relay instead of 9 volt. My coil and relay still get hot as I have yet to implement the advances here. Normally I only get between 7 and 9 volts on the charging side, but today I hooked a 4 foot fluorescent bulb (like the ones used in offices, it was burnt out too) and two cfl's (one was a very small one from Ikea - about 3 watts I think, and the other is an 18 watt GE CFL) all in series. The charging side read as much as 26 volts!!! The lights were putting out about 30% to 40% brightness. I have 3 more 4 foot fluorescent lamps and I will try them all in series to see if it ups the voltage on the charging side. I wondered if anyone else noticed that? And what does it mean?

Dear Jsambdman,

Welcome to the world of experimental reality. Without trying to be too radical the bottom line to your question "what does it mean?" is that the scientific establishment has been lying to us about 1) what electricity really is, 2) where it goes, 3) what it can do, 4) and why. You only find out what REALLY happens when you run the experiment yourself, and see what happens on your own work bench.

The economic world only makes specific types of circuits and devices commercially available that conform to the "belief" that electricity is the "flow of electrons" and that "electricity is consumed" by the appliances when they run. What you are seeing in your experiments is the beginning of a CRACK in that belief model.

Welcome to the Matrix, where you just took the Red Pill, and the illusion that has been laid on all of us is starting to lift for you.

The truth is, we do NOT know what electricity is. We do NOT know all of the amazing things it can do. And we do NOT know why these circuits run in a manner that strongly suggests that only 2% of the electricity will light the bulbs while the other 98% of the electricity is dissipated in the other components or available for recovery. We can SEE that that is what is apparently happening, and so we are excited about following the experimental trail.

Thanks for sharing your findings.

Peter

[Bodkins]

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have built the original Imhotep circuit with a 12 volt relay instead of 9 volt. My coil and relay still get hot as I have yet to implement the advances here. Normally I only get between 7 and 9 volts on the charging side, but today I hooked a 4 foot fluorescent bulb (like the ones used in offices, it was burnt out too) and two cfl's (one was a very small one from Ikea - about 3 watts I think, and the other is an 18 watt GE CFL) all in series. The charging side read as much as 26 volts!!! The lights were putting out about 30% to 40% brightness. I have 3 more 4 foot fluorescent lamps and I will try them all in series to see if it ups the voltage on the charging side. I wondered if anyone else noticed that? And what does it mean?

had this happen to in this video
YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication

i think it changes the balance of the circiut have you tryed parrell thedude did some stuff with that, watch him stuff too i find his funny.in one hes peeled the shin off his finger riping off tape from his wheel and now keeps getting little shock on his little pinkys(sorry dude but its funny)lol
good luck

[jsambdman]

Oh, and my source battery is a 12 volt car battery from my car that I had to replace. It reads 12.3 volts before running and 12.05 while running. It has yet to lose charge but I don't leave it running long as my coil and relay get hot. But, I have noticed that the charge in the battery seems to be better after running the circuit. Sometimes before running the reading is 12.10 volts and after running it goes up to 12.3 volts. I thought that was interesting too.

[jsambdman]

Interesting Result

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have built the original Imhotep circuit with a 12 volt relay instead of 9 volt. My coil and relay still get hot as I have yet to implement the advances here. Normally I only get between 7 and 9 volts on the charging side, but today I hooked a 4 foot fluorescent bulb (like the ones used in offices, it was burnt out too) and two cfl's (one was a very small one from Ikea - about 3 watts I think, and the other is an 18 watt GE CFL) all in series. The charging side read as much as 26 volts!!! The lights were putting out about 30% to 40% brightness. I have 3 more 4 foot fluorescent lamps and I will try them all in series to see if it ups the voltage on the charging side. I wondered if anyone else noticed that? And what does it mean?

[Lidmotor]

24 volt IROL

Nice. I am working on a 24v model. You can vary amp draw and alter light output on the 12v model, but I think 24v should do the trick. Plus you're charging on the back end.

Homemade solar panel hey sounds very Yahoo Serious Me likey

Ren, I have come to the same conclusion about upping the drive voltage source to get better light. I did it a little different though. I kept the circuit intact but took two 2000mAH 7.4 volt lithium ion batteries and put them in series to get 15 volts on the drive. It dramatically increased the light output and lights multiple bulbs better. On the charge side I left the two nickle metal hydride 12V batt packs. The lithium batts will run the LB for two hours then I split them and charge them on the back end as 7.4 batts. using the 12 volts on drive side. I went shopping for the parts to build the cap pulser yesterday and was totally frustrated. My local electronics store did not carry all the parts and I will have to drive 40 miles to a store that has them or order them online On top of that I really don't understand how the circuit works. I have to go backwards and learn more about the 555 and H11d1 and how they work together. The good thing is that it is forcing me to learn something new and that is a big part of why I am doing these projects.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[ren]

Nice. I am working on a 24v model. You can vary amp draw and alter light output on the 12v model, but I think 24v should do the trick. Plus you're charging on the back end.

Homemade solar panel hey sounds very Yahoo Serious Me likey

[ashtweth]

tunable cap banks

I think it might make a difference with the solid state,or maybe in a situation where you need to use more light and have heaps of current draw? its easy to try, we can just switch up and or down in capacitance from those two banks

[ashtweth]

Ow Yup thats right, this dam flu! i Remember Lidmotor doing that,maybe i shouldn't be operating machinery

Thanks mate , ill start some recovery on the solar panel side of it, i wanna try that phos, luminescent paint, and go real mad scientist

[ren]

tuneable caps, good idea!

Ash look back a couple of pages (or maybe just one) we've been using JB's solidstate oscillator to charge (cap pulser or other) AND pulse the ignition coil. Works a treat and no BEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSZZZZZZZ!

[ashtweth]

Better late then Never

As usual i am late and behind the times

But here is a tiny 1.3Ah battery lighting up two fluros and charging a 7ah battery on about 500 or so milliamps. The Ant charging the elephant and lighting the place up too Gonna have the fan kit and solid state in there soon, making a solid state relay also .

You can see we had tunable capacitor banks, didn't do much,about as much R and D as i can contribute till later. We have two CFL's we are going to convert and add in there, i have Ricks fan kit, just need to find out what you guys are doing to get that buzzing down on the relay, we used a powerful Neo on there.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Howdy,

I was surfing the Net for some Tesla information and came up this page:

http://tacashi.tripod.com/elctrncs/inverter/inverter.htm

Looks similar to what Imhotep did except for the solid state circuitry...and it was done in 2001. Were we asleep for seven years waiting for Imhotep to wake us up

Thank you for the information. i like the way he explains the transformer rewrap. I agree with Peter there is no mention on the current that is being used by the circuit. And of course no recovery! I have also discovered quite a few circuits that have lighting fluorescents as part of their focus. But nothing I have come across have had all the features and efficiency the IROL(imhotep radiant oscillator lite) has with the same light output. I have also seen ones where they make their own torroid but the current draw quickly drains the batteries. From what i have seen with ren,bodkins,waterhouse and of course lidmotor and others the multiple cfls and excellent renovations have blown me away. you guys rock!

[Peter Lindemann]

Great Find

Howdy,

I was surfing the Net for some Tesla information and came up this page:

http://tacashi.tripod.com/elctrncs/inverter/inverter.htm

Looks similar to what Imhotep did except for the solid state circuitry...and it was done in 2001. Were we asleep for seven years waiting for Imhotep to wake us up

Amigo,

Great find! It shows that we are not out in left field with this project. Remarkably, I didn't see a single mention of how much current this circuit uses. Apparently, efficiency was not the author's primary concern. Plus, he missed the opportunity for the inductive recovery. Oh well. He was on the right track!

Peter

[nat1971a]

Current draw

Hi All,

I thought i would mention that you can reduce your current draw by the addition of some choking coils to the positive and negative of the drive battery. Tesla did this in his circuits. Hope this helps

Nat

[amigo]

Howdy,

I was surfing the Net for some Tesla information and came up this page:

http://tacashi.tripod.com/elctrncs/inverter/inverter.htm

Looks similar to what Imhotep did except for the solid state circuitry...and it was done in 2001. Were we asleep for seven years waiting for Imhotep to wake us up

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep Lite frequency resonance

The setup is same as last video the fan oscillating is not moving the iginition coil primary up in parallel to the power + winding the negative is on the collector.
will be trying to making a Bedini Solid State oscillator from the fan coil, air core with lidmotor setup.
Would like to run it from 9v rechargeables which i can charge from a 24v imhotep fan setup. three battery sets in total. need to do some test to see if the ignition coil will run well on 18volt the fan coil is 24v anyway.

i think The reason for the brightness even though your amps are going down is because of me hitting resonance.
Resonance is the most efficient freq. to operate.

Hey Bodkins,
In your last video with the scope shots-- that really helped me to see what I have been hearing on my little tuning radio. Those frequencies are exactly what I am hearing when I get the LB into resonance. Thanks that really helps those of us that don't have a scope. My scope is a little AM radio and a pair of ears.
The drive voltage issue is something that I'm still playing with alot. More is better for light brightness. My findings about current draw agrees with what Peter said about the CFL only taking about 20 millamps. The rest of the energy is being eaten by the circuit. I'm experimenting with an adjustable step down voltage regulator that I used on my SSG to control the energy coming out of the drive battery.

Ren, I'm going shopping today to gather parts for the cap pulser. I have wanted to build one of these for awhile now. Thanks for posting the info and links.

Lidmotor