Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[KGround]

Power factor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
www.watthourmeters.com - an online reference on US-made watthour meters

[Peter Lindemann]

Ammeters Unreliable

Thanks Ren for taking the time to explain how the cap pulser works. It does what I thought it did. I have tried charging up a cap and manually switching it into the charge battery. My fingers got really tired! It looks like this automatic pulser circuit is something that I can now figure out how to build. If I have any more questions I will use the appropriate thread and keep this one clear for Imhotep oscillator discussion. By the way I noticed that people are having trouble with heat and burning out transistors. Been there done that. You are right that you have to watch the resistance on the base of the transistor and put a fixed resistor in with the pot. On my latest circuit I got away with a 100ohm resistor with a 1K wire wound pot. It was just trial and error but the TIP3055 transistor I'm using runs cool. I'm also dumping alot of heat (still) into the 25ohm rheostat that I use so I put hefty heat sinks on the front and the back of it and it is working.

The last thing is that I also am also seeing very strange charging readings. The thing is though, I really don't trust these digital ammeters. I think that they give false readings with this type of circuit. You really have to do charge/discharge testing to see what's happening and that takes time.

Thanks again for the help.

Lidmotor

Lidmotor,

I totally agree with you, the digital ammeters are not reliable to measure the recovered energy. There are a number of reasons for this. The most obvious reason is that all digital equipment operates by taking samples of data at a specific rate. Most of these sample rates are relatively low for normal meters, and therefore miss the peak events, or only capture them once in a while, in a high frequency environment like this. If your oscillator is running at a fixed rate, you should be able to see a secondary wave moving through the data as the sample rate of the meter and the oscillation rate of the system interact. It looks random at first, but then you can see it.

The second, and not so obvious reason is...... there really is NO SUCH THING as a meter that measures CURRENT. The meter is actually a milli-volt meter that MEASURES the voltage drop on a "calibrated resistor" called a shunt. Then, the current in AMPERES is calculated assuming that OHM's LAW is applicable in this situation. For "normal electricity" coming from a battery or a generator, this current "measuring" arrangement works very well, but it is very important to understand that this is NOT a direct measurement of current. It is the measurement of a small voltage drop across a resistor in the circuit, and the calculation of current based on Ohm's Law.

When an inductive collapse is applied across such a situation, the initial voltage spike can produce voltage gradients across the shunt far in excess of the nominal conditions. If the digital sampler happens to "pick" one of these moments, the meter readout will show "extremely high currents" which, in fact, do not exist. This, and other anomalies, are artifacts of the meter.

If you are running a capacitor charge and discharge circuit, the very best way to calculate the recovered energy is to put your scope (or volt meter) across the capacitor and measure the high and low voltage in the cycle, and calculate the number of Joules stored in the capacitor in each condition. The difference is the amount of energy, in Joules, you are delivering to the battery under charge during each discharge. Then, determine how often the discharges occur to determine the rate of energy delivery, from which a figure of Joules per second (watts) can be calculated.

John Bedini and I figured all of this out in 2003. Even then, the battery can charge much faster than the "watts in" figures suggests is possible, depending on a wide variety of other factors. This is why John has always said that the true energy content of the inductive collapse cannot be measured with the equipment we currently have.

Hope this helps.

Peter

[ren]

Thanks Ren for taking the time to explain how the cap pulser works. It does what I thought it did. I have tried charging up a cap and manually switching it into the charge battery. My fingers got really tired! It looks like this automatic pulser circuit is something that I can now figure out how to build. If I have any more questions I will use the appropriate thread and keep this one clear for Imhotep oscillator discussion. By the way I noticed that people are having trouble with heat and burning out transistors. Been there done that. You are right that you have to watch the resistance on the base of the transistor and put a fixed resistor in with the pot. On my latest circuit I got away with a 100ohm resistor with a 1K wire wound pot. It was just trial and error but the TIP3055 transistor I'm using runs cool. I'm also dumping alot of heat (still) into the 25ohm rheostat that I use so I put hefty heat sinks on the front and the back of it and it is working.

The last thing is that I also am also seeing very strange charging readings. The thing is though, I really don't trust these digital ammeters. I think that they give false readings with this type of circuit. You really have to do charge/discharge testing to see what's happening and that takes time.

Thanks again for the help.

Lidmotor

Cool, glad it helped. Try get an analogue gauge specifically for the voltage level of the batteries your using. It may be a bit hard if you are using lithiums or such with unusual voltage levels, but the one I have is 11-15v.

Try different sized caps too. The common consensus is a medium to large capacitance is better.

[ashtweth]

Hails to PL

The Pill peter is talking about is the reality that we are the effect of taking the reality pill, it is up to us to work together with out prejudice's and to assist each other and work collectively.

we can beat these bastards this way, the ONLY way we will.


Ash

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator ---Cap pulser

Good to see you are constantly challenging yourself Lidmotor

The 555/opto/SCR is really simple once you understand the basics of it. The cap that is filling on the backend will continue to fill as long as the oscillator is running and there is no load connected to the cap. The Cap Pulser (as implied) simply connects the charging battery to the capacitor periodically via solidstate components (ie no mechanical elements). The mechanical equivalent of the circuit can be built by just putting a simple on/off switch on one of the legs to charging battery. Cap charges up to set level, lets say 15v, you press the switch on, cap dumps into battery and drops to level of battery, you let go of the switch and the cycle begins again. Too easy, except you dont want to sit there and switch the cap on and off do you!

A basic description of each part is this:

555- this is used to create our signal for closing the switch.

h11d1- used to optically isolate the switching load from the 555. (You can think of the h11d1 as similar to a relay, in that a small signal which passes through it is used to throw a switch which is isolated from the original signal and can switch much more powerful loads.)

small transistor (2n3440/2n3584/mje340 etc) - Used in Darlington pair configuration to amplify the signal that comes from the h11d1.

SCR - is our switch. Incidently, the SCR has a very low voltage drop, and may actually be more desireable than the output diode in the standard setup.

Thanks Ren for taking the time to explain how the cap pulser works. It does what I thought it did. I have tried charging up a cap and manually switching it into the charge battery. My fingers got really tired! It looks like this automatic pulser circuit is something that I can now figure out how to build. If I have any more questions I will use the appropriate thread and keep this one clear for Imhotep oscillator discussion. By the way I noticed that people are having trouble with heat and burning out transistors. Been there done that. You are right that you have to watch the resistance on the base of the transistor and put a fixed resistor in with the pot. On my latest circuit I got away with a 100ohm resistor with a 1K wire wound pot. It was just trial and error but the TIP3055 transistor I'm using runs cool. I'm also dumping alot of heat (still) into the 25ohm rheostat that I use so I put hefty heat sinks on the front and the back of it and it is working.

The last thing is that I also am also seeing very strange charging readings. The thing is though, I really don't trust these digital ammeters. I think that they give false readings with this type of circuit. You really have to do charge/discharge testing to see what's happening and that takes time.

Thanks again for the help.

Lidmotor

[hh1341]

Thanks Ren,

You have come through and fixed me up yet again.

Question:-
Would you just stock MJL21194G's or is there place in the box for 2n3055's?

Carl

[jsambdman]

All bulbs are in

I have hooked up all the bulbs I have in series. There are four 4 foot fluorescent bulbs, one mercury vapor bulb, one 3 watt cfl, and one 18 watt cfl.
I am producing 50 volts on the output side and it goes up to 80 volts when things warm up. Also, the brightness goes up after the coil and relay get hot.The battery still reads 12.05 volts during operation and 12.4 volts before running. The brightness is around 10 to 15% with the seven bulbs, but I was impressed with the output voltage. i will next build the better circuits posted here and see what happens.

[ren]

Many things can lead to heat build up Carl, but for starters, having no recovery in a circuit like this is one of em. Bad or faulty transistors can be another. I have seen a whole batch of 2n3055s come through a local store here that were just plain crap. ISC they were labeled I think. They just didnt perform like others I had purchased elsewhere.

You dont have to build the cap pulser for recovery on the solidstate. You can get it to work with the pure SG circuit (well, I am assuming you can, I have got it to work with a SG circuit, high resistance on the base. I havent tried the resistance only "pure" solidstate with standard SG charging configuration).

Just put diode off collector and connect to + and put - of charging batt to positive of run as always.

[hh1341]

What are you stuck on Carl? Does it work?


Tuning on the solid state isn't too hard, its mostly done by the components selected. You can up the amperage by decreasing the resistance on the trigger wire, have a bare minimum on there though. Use a 1k fixed resistor at least before your 5k pot. This could be one reason your transistor is heating up.

Hi Ren,

It works......was getting very hot......changed the 3055 for a fresh one and it seems to be running cool now.
Learning electronics on the fly, couldn't do it without you guys.

So lesson #001 ......what contributes to transistor heat up and what are the remedies?

Carl

[hh1341]

I haven't included the energy recovery in the the circuit......could that account for the transistor overheating(nowhere for the juice to go = heat buildup)?

Carl

[ren]

What are you stuck on Carl? Does it work?


Tuning on the solidstate isnt too hard, its mostly done by the components selected. You can up the amperage by decreasing the resistance on the trigger wire, have a bare minimum on there though. Use a 1k fixed resistor at least before your 5k pot. This could be one reason your transistor is heating up.

[hh1341]

Thanks Ren,

I have made a bi-filar 450 turn air coil.(would have been more versatile had I made it 3 wire)
It works but the transistor is getting hot and seems to have degraded.(it's a 2n3055....am wondering if a MJL21194G would be more robust)

JB says to use the parts one has at hand and tune the resulting creation.
I need some guidance on the logical way to go about tuning.

I have a 1K and 5K wire wound pot as well as a 75 ohm 25 watt reo to work with.

Carl

Hi Peter,

Can you give us a primer on tuning this SS circuit or point us in the right direction to obtain the info.

I'm kind of stuck.

Thanks

Carl

[ren]

I agree Peter. We as human beings have become VERY good at consumption. This is seen in many aspects, not just electricity. The general understanding is one way, the public doesnt understand that there is another side to electricity, its equal opposite. Its seen throughout nature and is right infront of our faces, yet we continue to pump our power into our circuits without any thought to where it is lost or dissapated. Time to wake up world

[ren]

Ren, I have come to the same conclusion about upping the drive voltage source to get better light. I did it a little different though. I kept the circuit intact but took two 2000mAH 7.4 volt lithium ion batteries and put them in series to get 15 volts on the drive. It dramatically increased the light output and lights multiple bulbs better. On the charge side I left the two nickle metal hydride 12V batt packs. The lithium batts will run the LB for two hours then I split them and charge them on the back end as 7.4 batts. using the 12 volts on drive side. I went shopping for the parts to build the cap pulser yesterday and was totally frustrated. My local electronics store did not carry all the parts and I will have to drive 40 miles to a store that has them or order them online On top of that I really don't understand how the circuit works. I have to go backwards and learn more about the 555 and H11d1 and how they work together. The good thing is that it is forcing me to learn something new and that is a big part of why I am doing these projects.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Good to see you are constantly challenging yourself Lidmotor

The 555/opto/SCR is really simple once you understand the basics of it. The cap that is filling on the backend will continue to fill as long as the oscillator is running and there is no load connected to the cap. The Cap Pulser (as implied) simply connects the charging battery to the capacitor periodically via solidstate components (ie no mechanical elements). The mechanical equivalent of the circuit can be built by just putting a simple on/off switch on one of the legs to charging battery. Cap charges up to set level, lets say 15v, you press the switch on, cap dumps into battery and drops to level of battery, you let go of the switch and the cycle begins again. Too easy, except you dont want to sit there and switch the cap on and off do you!

A basic description of each part is this:

555- this is used to create our signal for closing the switch.

h11d1- used to optically isolate the switching load from the 555. (You can think of the h11d1 as similar to a relay, in that a small signal which passes through it is used to throw a switch which is isolated from the original signal and can switch much more powerful loads.)

small transistor (2n3440/2n3584/mje340 etc) - Used in Darlington pair configuration to amplify the signal that comes from the h11d1.

SCR - is our switch. Incidently, the SCR has a very low voltage drop, and may actually be more desireable than the output diode in the standard setup.

[Bodkins]

fan oscillation

If anyones trying to make the fan oscillant take off the negative from the bulb to the ignition coil then spin the fan. if conected all you get is a flash.
after it starts to oscillant connect back together again and play with restistant to get best light.

Ps Well said Peter