Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[IGavius]

@Bodkins,
@Marseye,
thank you for the kind greetings and the recommended link about the RE!

Today I found some small (only 40 mm sized, 12V, 1W and 0.9W, "impedance protected" as their labels shows) old CPU cooler fans, I have tried to "transform" by the usual way; the only pity that there were no posts at all: the wires were soldered to the control panel directly. Even, there are no the usual four-armed (cross-like) iron plate core with four coils - only a single cylindic coil is there (bifilar, I guess, as there are four small wires coming out from it), located axially, and there are two thin iron plates (the core, I guess) one is below and one is above the coil.
Do you have some experience/idea about this kind of fan? Could it be better, or worse than the "usual" fans? (If you find it better, that will have a very bad consequence for me, as the wires are very short and thin. )

[Bodkins]

are you sure there are no X-rays emitted from the tube when your circuit
powers fruoresent lamps by high voltage from ignicion coil?

X-ray tube - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


2 High Voltage rectifier tubes capable of producing X-rays.
Any vacuum tube operating at several thousand volts or more can produce
x-rays as an unwanted byproduct, raising safety issues.[2][3] The higher the
voltage, the more penetrating the resulting radiation and the more the
hazard. Color televisions and computer CRT displays operate at 30-40
kilovolts, making them the main concern among household appliances.
Historically, concern has focused less on the cathode ray tube, since its
thick glass envelope is impregnated with several pounds of lead for
shielding, than on high voltage (HV) rectifier and voltage regulator tubes
inside. In the 1970s it was found that a failure in the HV supply circuit of
some GE TVs could leave excessive voltages on the regulator tube, causing it
to emit X-rays. The models were recalled and the ensuing scandal caused the
US agency responsible for regulating this hazard, the Center for Devices and
Radiological Health of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), to require
that all TVs include circuits to prevent excessive voltages in the event of
failure. This hazard was eliminated with the advent of all solid state TVs,
which have no tubes beside the CRT. Since 1969 the FDA has limited TV X-ray
emission to 0.5 mR (milliroentgen) per hour.

I see it your first post so hello and thank for making me think im infertial
Is it not the freq of High voltage which give you x-rays? or just high voltage?

[marseye]

@ Henieck : this question about X-rays is interesting and clever. Since I don't yet know how to detect them...

Is there a simple (cheap) device to indicate there's X-rays ?

[henieck]

X-rays from High Voltage CFL?

also i can make a light out of the imhotep fan, cfl and ignition coil for camping.

i now is not lot of power but if the light go out I have a little power for FREE.

are you sure there are no X-rays emitted from the tube when your circuit
powers fruoresent lamps by high voltage from ignicion coil?

X-ray tube - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


2 High Voltage rectifier tubes capable of producing X-rays.
Any vacuum tube operating at several thousand volts or more can produce
x-rays as an unwanted byproduct, raising safety issues.[2][3] The higher the
voltage, the more penetrating the resulting radiation and the more the
hazard. Color televisions and computer CRT displays operate at 30-40
kilovolts, making them the main concern among household appliances.
Historically, concern has focused less on the cathode ray tube, since its
thick glass envelope is impregnated with several pounds of lead for
shielding, than on high voltage (HV) rectifier and voltage regulator tubes
inside. In the 1970s it was found that a failure in the HV supply circuit of
some GE TVs could leave excessive voltages on the regulator tube, causing it
to emit X-rays. The models were recalled and the ensuing scandal caused the
US agency responsible for regulating this hazard, the Center for Devices and
Radiological Health of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), to require
that all TVs include circuits to prevent excessive voltages in the event of
failure. This hazard was eliminated with the advent of all solid state TVs,
which have no tubes beside the CRT. Since 1969 the FDA has limited TV X-ray
emission to 0.5 mR (milliroentgen) per hour.

[ren]

sigh

The "overunity" is in fact visible and a voltmeter....
I am a big beliver but no one confired me that this system realy works.
I am maybe an ignorent but there is a lot bigger ignorents than me who think bedinifan overunity realy works.

Time and time again it has been expressed that the SG is NOT an overunity device. The magic happens in the battery and its ability to convert a short duration HV inductive discharge into "real" useable power. Usually, conventional meters will register about half the input going into the output, in terms of amperage. So how does the battery charge so well, that should be your question....

If you have built the SG and it spins and charges another battery, then it works as intended. It amazes me just how many people are convinced that this thing is overunity, where are you all getting this from?

Oh and the comment above about needing a higher voltage source to fully charge a lower voltage battery is incorrect. When built and matched properly the SG WILL push a battery of equal size over the top. Ive used an 18 amp hour to charge 2 x 12 amp hours (both in good condition) from 12.2 up to 14.5, before the 18 amp hour hit 12v.


Regards

[marseye]

@ IGavius :

...I have removed a small neon bulb from a 100...500V "phase checker screw driver" (sorry, I do not know, how it is in English properly), I have shorted the 100 kohm shunt resistor via a piece of wire, so I have got a "bare neon".

Another user used a 250V neon bulb, and it appeared to work fine. You may find some, if you need.

It seemed to be appropriate, if the tension of the Source Battery is 13,32V (3 pcs of 3R12 batteries, in serial) and there is no load at the location of Charge Battery, except a digital multimeter. When the Source Battery was 9,27V (=1 pcs of block battery) or less, this bulb did not emit any light at all, although all three fans were able to spin even when the tension of Source Battery voltage (=1 pcs of 3R12 battery) was lowered to 4.44V only.

It's very hard to have a bulb lit under less than 12v, because then the 'spikes' are not strong enough. So, no matter with your circuit, it works fine.

But! When I connected my cheap analog multimeter (type is Deprez-d'Arsonval, with 19,9 kohm internal resistance) with parallel to the digital multimeter, the output voltage is dropped below 3V, and the light of the neon bulb went out....

That's radiant energy (RE) : always finding a way over resistors and diodes, flowing not inside the wire but 'around' (on the surface and outside) instead (much 'around' than regular 'hot' electricity). In your case, it seems that it finds a way to the ground, like a direct shunt. The bulbs neither glows anymore when you hook a charging battery to the circuit, because it 'sucks' the RE.

Here's a thread of value if you wish to learn more about RE : http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post40147. Lots of explicit experiences are shared there.

Good Job, and

[Bodkins]

IGavius
Well Done, Alot of people get fustrated with the fans and give in but not you

[IGavius]

first successful step done by a newbie

Hello, Members!

I am a newbie with a very little experience. Despite it, I was able to make a successful replicant of a "Bedini-fan-SSG " a couple of days ago, accoring to Imhotep's videos at YouTube and comments/recommendations found here sent by you, WITHOUT ANY DIFFICULTIES - MANY THANKS FOR ALL OF YOU!!!

At this moment I have 3 fans: two pcs of 80mm 12V 0.12A fans (coil-pair resistances: 60.7+60.7 and 39.8+42.1 ohm) and 1 pc of a 50mm 12V 0.13A (68.1+68.3 ohm), all of them were made from old, unusable, bad fans - and I have a single control circuit.

The only problem was that the "NE-2" neon bulb (or any other ones in range of 65...110V) is not available in the shops in Hungary (in Europe) nowadays, as the main power is 230V here. So I have removed a small neon bulb from a 100...500V "phase checker screw driver" (sorry, I do not know, how it is in English properly), I have shorted the 100 kohm shunt resistor via a piece of wire, so I have got a "bare neon".
It seemed to be appropriate, if the tension of the Source Battery is 13,32V (3 pcs of 3R12 batteries, in serial) and there is no load at the location of Charge Battery, except a digital multimeter. When the Source Battery was 9,27V (=1 pcs of block battery) or less, this bulb did not emit any light at all, although all three fans were able to spin even when the tension of Source Battery voltage (=1 pcs of 3R12 battery) was lowered to 4.44V only.
The maximal output voltage (in case of the fan with the 61-61 ohm coils and 13,32V Source voltage) was up to 6,46V. (The two other fans produced significantly smaller output tension.)
Even, this fan was able to produce 21,2V output and a high frequency "humming noise" when the rotor was stopped due to a slow and careful increase of the resistance of the potentiometer connected to the base of the transistor. (The two other fans have not showed this effect until now, they have simply stopped when the resistance of the potentiometer exceeded a certain value.)
But! When I connected my cheap analog multimeter (type is Deprez-d'Arsonval, with 19,9 kohm internal resistance) with parallel to the digital multimeter, the output voltage is dropped below 3V, and the light of the neon bulb went out...

... so! I only wished to share my very first experiences and my "hapiness" with you! And even, I wish to encourage the other newbies to build their own Bedini-Impotep fan circuits: all the information needed could be found here and the Imhotep's and other Members' videos in the YouTube - everything works, if we follow these instructions!

THANK YOU AGAIN!

[Bodkins]

free energy for free

YouTube - bio charge sg fan and earth battery charging a cap!

[Bodkins]

The "overunity" is in fact visible and a voltmeter. This could make you think that there is an real overunity because the volts comming out are bigger than those from the supplie batteries but its just an illusion because the amperes are a lot smaler at the output than the input.
that the light glows doesn'nt mean much it works like a transformer. More Volt but less ampere everithing normal.

That the batterie seams to charge faster than the supplie is also an illusion,
your batterie can be at 12V but have no much ampereH.

This can be easely be proved lets pretend you have two 12V 7Ah batterries, one is fully charged and the other is discharged.
try to charge with the bedini and when the batterie is "full" change them.
At the end you should have the two batteries fully lowed but you won't.
the two batteries will be discharged after some cycles.

But don't missunderstand me I think the "free energie" is possible but the bedini fan is just an illusion. It is a batterie charger but not an overunity charger.

If at the real bedini you use an other "bobine" insted of of the potentiometer
it would work better but maybe not enough for overunity.
I am a big beliver but no one confired me that this system realy works.
I am maybe an ignorent but there is a lot bigger ignorents than me who think bedinifan overunity realy works.

its the fact you can charge a battery up like this, that has opened so many door for me i cant thank bedini imhotep and arron and peter enought.
the problems are many when you are trying to go OU the battery swoping the running the machine 24 7 ect , it only shows people like me the potenial of experiment to open they eyes to a diiferent way of looking at stuff,

i have a solaur panel that chargers a 12v 7amp battery x2. I run a imhotpep fan and charge small batterys lots of, for the kids toys and all the other stuff you need batterys for,
also i can make a light out of the imhotep fan, cfl and ignition coil for camping.

i now is not lot of power but if the light go out I have a little power for FREE.

good luck my friend

[Joit]

jointbk There are probatly still a few Things, what you do miss.
First, figure, what the Wires from a small Fan will let throught.
They have about #30AWG(0,1mm), what handle about 0.02Ah or 20 mA.
You can crude say, what you get Amps through, you can calculate the same for the first Time to charge Batteries, till they get a better condition.
That will take a long time to load even a 7,5 AH Batterie.
Secondly, when you did study the Circuits, and even the Posts in here,
you should have seen, that JB says, to put more Diodes for charging.
Put 5 there in Series or parallel for each chargepack. I prefer them right now in parallel, because they give me more Amps, in serie it loads more Voltage.
That is, because most Diodes are not fast enough, to stop the Spikes to run back into the Circuit. Therefor fast switching Diodes even wouldnt hurt.
And thirdly, JB said, you see the actually Effect first, when you charge at the same Time 2 or more Batteries, not only one.
I think, it has something to do with the Potential, what comes from the Minus of the Charge Batteries.

A PC fan is probatly not the best charger for sure, but it shows too, how you can lite a higher rated Bulb with a smaller Source, as you usual can.
And well, i charge right now 4 AA in half of the Time, what i usual do with a normal Charger. And after that, they have more Amps in as with a normal charge, stay longer, and reload herself a bit, after take some charge from them.
I use them for a Lamp, what indicates, when the Batt is low, and the Indicator is off again after i turn the Lamp off for 12 Hours.
And this did not happen at normal charge.
I only didnt do the direct Test right now, to measure it, i am ok with that, what i got, thats more then enough.
But i did try once a 9V Block load with an other one, and the Fan did run about 2 Days, just, the charge Batt was damaged, and didnt take really load.
Quit a bit more, then the 9V usual runs.

Edit About your Coils, i use right now about 0,5mm and 0,4mm for a Rotor.
It takes 1,2ah to run and spits out about the same and prefers, to burn my Pots all the Time, therefor a Resistor or two and a Pot at the Base is a good choice.

[jointbk]

Maybe or maybe not

The "overunity" is in fact visible and a voltmeter. This could make you think that there is an real overunity because the volts comming out are bigger than those from the supplie batteries but its just an illusion because the amperes are a lot smaler at the output than the input.
that the light glows doesn'nt mean much it works like a transformer. More Volt but less ampere everithing normal.

That the batterie seams to charge faster than the supplie is also an illusion,
your batterie can be at 12V but have no much ampereH.

This can be easely be proved lets pretend you have two 12V 7Ah batterries, one is fully charged and the other is discharged.
try to charge with the bedini and when the batterie is "full" change them.
At the end you should have the two batteries fully lowed but you won't.
the two batteries will be discharged after some cycles.

But don't missunderstand me I think the "free energie" is possible but the bedini fan is just an illusion. It is a batterie charger but not an overunity charger.

If at the real bedini you use an other "bobine" insted of of the potentiometer
it would work better but maybe not enough for overunity.
I am a big beliver but no one confired me that this system realy works.
I am maybe an ignorent but there is a lot bigger ignorents than me who think bedinifan overunity realy works.

[marseye]

@ Jointbk :
What do you call 'overunity' ? The only things that you can observe with a scope are the waveforms, and voltage spikes. That's when the neon glows...
You must ask yourself why a (65 to 110v) neon glows when your feeding the circuit with 12v only...
You won't have much direct overunity to observe with a real bedini wheel : never forget that it's meant to be a battery charger, which nevertheless allows you to charge around 4 batteries from only 1. And the more you charge them so, the longer their charge will last in powering your needs... Yes, it takes time to get such benefits. Or it takes faith in those who claim they replicated this with success. Of course, faster from a big wheel compared to a tiny fan. Although it isn't aknowledged by mainstream science. But it's for real ! Of course, you have to work around to understand the underlying principles of such an arrangement, since everyone has to understand his own system to get the best out of it.
But if your fan spins, then you're on a good path, althought you're on the very start. As many of us still are ... Again : if it was that simple, everyone would know... But most of our contemporaries ignore such a fact.

If what John Bedini showed the world was a lie, or something commonly known, do you really think such a thread would be that long ? Why wouldn't there be plenty of available commercial working devices ? Please, come back to a more humble position, and give your best to learn more, if you're interested. Lots of keys are already explained to whoever takes the patient time to browse the internet.

Each non believer (non dreamer) ends in disappointment and lost time. And a skeptic is 'someone who has not a clue'. The media are skeptics. Is that a proof that it doesn't work ? Or is that a proof about who and what rules them ?

JB is among the rarest men on this planet who have the desire and courage to share a big secret, despite the threats they've been promised. Please, say ' I don't understand' instead of 'it's a lie' (I know : you already can't accept that it would be a possible lie). It's still a research field, and no one must feel ashamed if he can't understand everything (since the schools made their best efforts to keep us misinformed and skeptic about such promising subjects). Then, GIYF ('Google is your friend'). Good luck with your own path. Sincerely.

[sigzidfit]

#23 and # 26

AWG23 & AWG26

23 magnet wire - Google Product Search

26 magnet wire - Google Product Search

[jointbk]

Problem! V.I.P.

Hey everybody this is a very important question for me

I have some problems with the bedini circuit. You may know an answer to this problem so I just ask you.

I build the bedini with the fan with two 12V, 7Ah Batteries.
I connected it to an osciloscope but no overunity was visible

I thaught it was because the charging batt had a too high resistance so I connected two 7V 250mAh in series for the charging but still no overunity.

Then I thaught it was maybe just a question of the regulation of the potentiometer
but still no succes.

Maybe I should have try to put just one 7V 250mAh baterrie for charging but I don't think it would made such a big difference.

I was a bit ridiculised when I showed that, but I can't imagine that all this bedini overunity is a big lie, or just an illusion. Or is it? what do you think?

Now I'm thinking that the bedinifan is just a demonstration how it work but it doesn't give an overunity. So my last hope is to build a "real one" but I don't know witch coil is the best.

On the bedini plan there is written: Bifilar coil 850 winds #23 #26
So i suppose it is two coils wrapped at the same time 850 times.
But what does #23 and # 26 mean?
Is a 0,15mm diameter all right ?

Any one an answer? :-(