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Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Protective houseing.

    Matthew Jones stared building this motor and wound up with a set of bearings that were too large to run inside the "Protective Housing". What would happen if something dislodged on his version? I've gone to great lengths to stress the importance of safety with this motor due to the very high rotor speeds it attains. Matthew really started working stupid on me! The rotor and the bearings both need to be enclosed for safety.
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 02-28-2016, 01:38 PM.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    @Sputins,

    Go back and look at comment #3 on the first page of this thread. I'll help guide you through the replication if you accept the challenge. The kind of bearings I recently suggested are new ideas, but the important point is that they would fit inside the protective PVC coupling pictured in comment #3.

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  • Sputins
    replied

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Ceramic bearings.

    The all ceramic bearing pictured below costs $10. on ebay. It has an 8 mm ID. The chrome steel ball bearing has an 8 mm diameter and is very cheap. The diametric neo tube magnet has a 1/4" ID; (8 mm = 5/16"). The chrome steel bearing is large enough to attach magnetically to the end holes of the neo tube and just the right size to fit snugly inside the ceramic bearing as well. This should yield a very stable high precision (Cookie Cutter) spin tube and bearing set for under $25. Naturally you would need to mount the bearings inside a frame.

    The OD of the ceramic bearing is 22 mm. Sturdy PVC tube comes in 22 mm ID dimension. The bearings can fit inside the tube and cement to 90 degree elbows. You can take it from there! Another good approach would be to come in through the sides of the PVC coupling with holes and the 22 mm ID pipes glued in position. Internal rings can nest inside and hold the bearings in place. This would allow us to run the coil down from overhead like the original.
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 08-02-2017, 02:10 PM.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Polarity.

    Once you get the coil switch and rotor set up with the South pole on the coil end, spin the neo magnet up by hand and just skip the power wire quickly over the positive battery electrode to see if the rotor kicks. This is not enough to damage the switch. Try the battery polarity reversed this way if nothing happens.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Pole reversal.

    The test coil was wrapped bifilar and connected serially like Tesla's Pancake. The 3/4" Neo tube magnet diametrically polarized. This discovery was accidental. I planned to run the spinner with my inset spiral and SSG. The "Hot Wired" Reed switch was just a quick and dirty way to test my novel precision ceramic bearings. The switch touched the coil by accident. I was startled by the sudden burst of explosive speed. I don't know for sure what the coil polarity was originally. It would take very little to try it with an opposite coil polarity once set up and tested as I outlined. All you would risk is a $3.99 switch. A reversed coil polarity will either work as well, more poorly, fail to work, or fail to work and fry. A hot switch is a dead switch. Replace the switch and reverse the battery electrodes if it heats up and fails, and stand by for "Blastoff".

    The spinner has two poles. So basically it should make no difference which pole faces the magnet rotor from the coil end, right?

    Imagine a N pole on the coil end. This may result in a "push pull" repulsion attraction motor. This is the only other possible way it may have worked.

    The south pole would close the switch, energizing the coil and causing either an attraction to the pole or a repulsion to the following north pole. At the same time the coil's north pole would quickly close the switch a second time, perhaps attracting the south pole of the magnet and so on. I'll be Frank in admitting; I'm really unsure of which way it worked. It's possible that it may work equally well either way, one way better then the other or one way not at all. The other issue is that it's possible that the bifilar coil produces two poles on the end. There's one way it works for sure!

    What I can accurately report is that there's an instantaneous doubling of speed from around 25k to 50k R.P.M. that may involve a double turn of the magnet spinner. This, I believe is an "Overunity Event" that merits further experimentation and testing. Special high quality, near to frictionless bearings are a requirement to witness this "Quantum Jump" in speed.
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 02-18-2016, 11:23 PM.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Reed switch polarity.

    The Reed switch pictured below is a 5 amp, 12 volt Radio Shack item selling for $3.99. This is a "Normally Open" (NO), South pole triggered switch. The picture I supplied has the switch mounted backwards on the coil by mistake, so I want to help clear this up:

    The North polarized bending contact is positioned on the far side away from the pins inside the blue cylinder vacuum housing of the Reed switch pictured below. This means that the South pole of a magnet will close the contacts held to the "Pins" side of the switch. Closing the contacts turns the switch on and energizes the coil. Therefore; The Reed switch needs to have the plain side of the switch snugly attached to the South pole forming end of the power coil wires to oscillate. The switch is rated at 10 to 60 amp turns of field strength depending on the wire gauge. It 's a simple job to turn the switch around the other way, with the pins facing the coil, and connect it in series with a 12 volt bulb; Then, to connect a coil wire quickly in series to the open battery electrode and see if the bulb blinks on. This is the best way to test the coil for sufficient magnetic field strength to trigger the Reed switch. Next, it would help to gauge the distance the coil and Reed switch need to be from the magnet rotor by reversing the direction of the switch and seeing how close the south pole of the permanent magnet needs to be to turn the switch on quickly, and blink the bulb that way. Keeping the switch on too long will weld the switch contacts shut. Don't try to light the bulb to full intensity while testing; It's enough just to cause a quick blink!
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 08-02-2017, 02:10 PM.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Stupidity.

    Quote from Turion:

    "I notice you TOTALLY avoided the question about why you haven't built another one of these things yourself and instead, spend all your time telling others how to do it. LOL".

    This comment of yours really betrays your baseless stupidity, bub! I was asked to explain how to do it. How would it help anyone learn how to build it if I merely rebuilt the old one myself?

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Salutation.

    Good morning Vietnam!

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  • Turion
    replied
    Comment about my mother

    Whoever deleted the comment Allen made about my MOTHER, I appreciate it. There are some depths we should not be allowed to sink to. I almost responded to that comment, but decided that the wiser choice was to put him back on my ignore list and exit this thread.

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  • admin
    replied
    Ignore List

    Can't we all just get along?

    Please click this link and put any member on your ignore list that you do not want to hear from: http://www.energeticforum.com/profile.php?do=ignorelist

    All you have to do is enter their username and click the submit button.

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Allen Burgess View Post
    @Matthew Jones,

    You allege you have something? Lets see it! All you've done is talk.
    Back on the ignore list. The illness in Allen has kicked back in. You'll see when I am ready and not before. Dumb Dumb Dumb, narcissistic behavior. Its sad.

    Have fun

    Matt

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Video.

    @Matthew Jones,

    You allege you have something? Lets see it! All you've done is talk.
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 02-17-2016, 09:21 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    ???

    Oh, come on,why stop at John Bedini? Why not try to convince all of us you are as important as Tesla? You can do it. I know you can. I mean YOU believe it so it MUST be so. LOL.

    So I'm a gook? Is that a racial slur? If so, what race do YOU assume I am that qualifies me to be called a gook?

    I notice you TOTALLY avoided the question about why you haven't built another one of these things yourself and instead, spend all your time telling others how to do it. LOL.

    And YES, I forgot to put you on ignore. My wife's dog pooped on the carpet and I had to clean it up, and YOU are less important than dog poop, so the choice was easy, but I have now taken care of that problem.

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  • Allen Burgess
    replied
    Turion crap.

    @Turion,

    I never bullied anyone into doing anything. I was asked to help by OrionLightShip. "Retarded Nerds" like you put John Bedini through the same kind of horsecrap; That's why he's no longer willing to help anyone. You're just another "Stinking Gook"!
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 02-17-2016, 03:14 PM.

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