Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

Here is a piece of Ferrite properly cut. Diamond blades ( 2 thousandths thick) plus coolant All these are well within reach. See the finish cut of ceramic iron

[Turion]

....Siliconized iron.... Dave has that recipe but he won't give it to you because he has to credit me. He will just babble BS like he has been doing, its part of his illness and the fantasy world he lives in. Say it and there for its true...
Matt

I do not have, and have never had, a formula or "recipe" for making siliconized iron. So that's BS. I am not a chemist or a manufacturer I DO have an .stl file for making a MOLD for the razor scooter motor rotor with a 3D printer that Matt created. Maybe that's what he is referencing? Who knows what is in his head. Don't know for sure. Why would I have to credit Matt in order to give that file to wantomake? I could have EASILY given it to wantomake WITHOUT ever mentioning Matt. What would have stopped me? I have wantomake's email address and could have sent it without Matt ever knowing. LOL! I have never printed the mold, so I forgot I even had the .stl file, but I have most things saved on a computer that is not attached to the internet. I will have to email it to you wantomake, since I cannot post .stl files here.

EDIT: Going over my notes, I DID have a mold for the razor scooter motor rotor. I don't know if I printed the mold from that .stl file or if Matt printed it and sent it to me. All I remember after reading the notes is that whatever material I put IN the mold and later tried to wind coils on fell apart, so I didn't continue with it or get another mold made. I think, at the time, Matt and I discussed just leaving the material in the mold and wrapping the wire around the WHOLE THING--material AND mold. But it was a long time ago in a galaxy far far away.

[BroMikey]

Remember all ceramics such as ferrite magnets are going to crack if coolant is not used during the cutting , grinding and polishing process. See the huge glass sheet and the water?

[BroMikey]

Cutting or slitting ceramics including porcelain cheap. Use coolant such as water.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20241522515...hantid=6296724

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185497334511?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110

[BroMikey]

Sounds like fun to me. It’s always good to have someone to work with and bounce ideas off. Makes the time pass more quickly and the load seem lighter

Yes so true, especially with the pace as fast as it is to find someone to pal with who won't stab you in the back is rare. When I was a kid my parents and grand parents all told me that if a person keeps 1 friend thru their lives they would be considered lucky. Now I understand. You guys have a good one, hear?

[BroMikey]

Here is an explorer of very old news.

Core material quest. This is the proper instruction done by a youth. Pt1 & 2

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/0304885383900550 from the 1970's
No we will not hold a special worship service for any experimenter conducting ancient research

[BroMikey]

Hysteresis!! that your problem, Dave has that recipe but he won't give it too you because he has to credit me.

He will just babble BS like he has been doing, its part of his illness and the fantasy world he lives in.

Say it and there for its true....

Matt

ME syndrome Poor mouthing is out

[Matthew Jones]

David,
Thanks for the above post.

I did take a few minutes in the shop this morning and checked the balance of the rotor. As per Matthew's video. It's close to balanced as I can get it without a balancing machine.

The back plate has room for careful drilling of holes. Back when we were winding these Matt motors I tried to test something and used trifilar winding instead of bifilar as Matt did in his video. I don't remember why it was some time ago. Therefore I cut one wire, wrapped it safely around the other two and it's bifilar now. Later I'll rewind it.

Later today I'll look up the ceramic bearings.

I enjoy this hobby as it gets me away from things sometimes and has always been an interest to me. The Home Church owner is American like me but wife is Okinawan like my wife. After teaching bible, he and I escaped to his shop where I teach him alternative energy. Meanwhile the ladies prepare Japanese dishes for fellowship. The girls talk fast in Japanese while we guys discuss bible and technology. Strange combo.

Sorry to run off my mouth too much. Have a good one.

Hysteresis!! that your problem, Siliconized iron can run with no heat at or very little heat up about 320 hertz. Depending on your motors speed you probably are quite a bit higher than that . So the rotor material needs to change. Dave has that recipe but he won't give it too you because he has to credit me. He will just babble BS like he has been doing, its part of his illness and the fantasy world he lives in. Say it and there for its true....
Anyway you have my email or at least you used to. I do not have yours as my email client fails now, and the computer I had failed with it. You can build this motor to run extremely cool. You can balance the induction to step up or step down which is why your lower batteries are not receiving the charge, you need to be stepping down, You have to have to motor wired differently. This is just basic engineering (EE). But I am not going to put it here. You wanna build I'll give it to you, no one else. I'll will also turn my PM stuff on so if you don't have my email you can get me there. Nothing these people are telling you is the truth. They don't understand much and they never will.
It might take couple of days to get it together for you but I have everything you need.
Hopefully I'll talk to you soon want to make.
Matt

[Turion]

Sounds like fun to me. It’s always good to have someone to work with and bounce ideas off. Makes the time pass more quickly and the load seem lighter

[wantomake]

David,
Thanks for the above post.

I did take a few minutes in the shop this morning and checked the balance of the rotor. As per Matthew's video. It's close to balanced as I can get it without a balancing machine.

The back plate has room for careful drilling of holes. Back when we were winding these Matt motors I tried to test something and used trifilar winding instead of bifilar as Matt did in his video. I don't remember why it was some time ago. Therefore I cut one wire, wrapped it safely around the other two and it's bifilar now. Later I'll rewind it.

Later today I'll look up the ceramic bearings.

I enjoy this hobby as it gets me away from things sometimes and has always been an interest to me. The Home Church owner is American like me but wife is Okinawan like my wife. After teaching bible, he and I escaped to his shop where I teach him alternative energy. Meanwhile the ladies prepare Japanese dishes for fellowship. The girls talk fast in Japanese while we guys discuss bible and technology. Strange combo.

Sorry to run off my mouth too much. Have a good one.

[Turion]

The motor draw determines the amps, so anything you do to decrease the amp draw of the motor will affect the amp draw. Balance, adjustment of the rear plate (timing) and bearings are the big 3.
You can also drill holes in both the end plates and in the sides of the case (careful of the magnets inside) to allow air movement through the case and that air movement will help cool the whole thing down TREMENDOUSLY. Those are all things I have done in the past.

[wantomake]

Nevermind Turion I will try to find some online today or tomorrow after the Home Church meeting. Thanks it's great of you to offer.

I just thought(thanks BroMikey) maybe checking the amps going from the boost converter to the motor is too high. But the heat build up is fast so I'll check for other possible causes.
The location between the 24 volt positive and 12 volt positive is a high amp location right? Just a thought.

[wantomake]

No I didn't change them. But do remember that part of the conversion.
I pm'd you my address. Thanks.

[Turion]

I know FOR SURE that one of the things both Matt and I did was replace the standard razor scooter motor bearings with ceramic skate board bearings because the ones that come with the motor are crap. I'm pretty sure that step was in the original directions. I know it affects the heat, but I don't remember how much. Don't know if you did that, but it makes a big difference. I'm pretty sure I have some somewhere I could send to you if you DIDN'T do that.

[BroMikey]

Good video.

Yes I already tried the adjusting the back plate on the Matt Motor. It made no difference for me. I changed back to the original motor setting .
Any way.

Okay thought you probably did. Now that it is years later I am beginning to realize what this motor does. Mine burnt up the windings producing a short in the rotor, the next one burnt up a fresh set of brushes in 100hrs of runtime. I was building a bigger one to get more HP without heat when I started the generator side, research.

1 amp at no more than 20vdc was the best low heat setting. The idea is to get spikes in both directions keeping both packs up higher while not making to much heat. I decided I needed a larger motor cage to run much over 1 amp without excessive heat.

I ran mine at 2.3amps @ 18-20v driving a generator. Each rewind would last 200-40yrs can't remember exact time I got before failure.

Here is Jordan running 500ma